Journey to Grenlandia

Bakhchisarai is a Paradise

Day 8 (01.09.2004)

Passed: 43,7 km
Just path: 9h 40 min
Pedal: 3h
CP.speed: 13.9 km/h
Air temperature: 30C


Got out in the morning with the beach on the hillside and the dirt road running right along the cliff edge went to the village shore.

From the Coast turned from the sea and went inland in the direction of Tobacco.
Asphalt road everywhere in these places is gorgeous. Few cars and small hills. Just get physical pleasure from driving. to the right of the stretch of road protected vineyards.

At the entrance to the Tobacco Rinat for the first time slashed the camera.
Stopped for twenty minutes. Helped to change the camera and to stick with the old reserve.

Passed through the village. Further our path lay in the direction of Bakhchysarai, via the village of Otradnoye and Kocherhine.
The road is already very hilly. Ascents and descents alternate one after the other. Practically no flat areas.
This is a harbinger of what soon we will reach the Crimean mountains. After Gratifying their range in the haze can already be seen in the distance.
At the estate bought water in the store and I finally threw out the trash, which jingled behind me from the coast.
I must say that we were very serious about this and always collected and took out trash from Parking areas.

Part of the way between Tobacco and Bakhchisarai was given to us not very easy.
We were spoiled by the plain, and here had to sweat on the climbs.
In some places, their height reaches 100 meters. In General it seemed a little, but when you constantly go 100 m up and down like a giant washboard ,the fatigue creeps up without being noticed.
And when our eyes opens a spectacular panorama of Bakhchisarai from the Western slope of the mountain Kazan-Tash we lightweight PDMgasped.
Marat Rinat as always rushed on the way down and I don't even have time to shout that it would be nice to photograph this spectacle.
The whole Bakhchisarai here at a glance. Visible thread of the highway Simferopol-Sevastopol crossing the city. On the left you can see the cement plant, using as raw material the deposits of marl. Quarry for its generation white thorn catches the eye.
In General there are no views.

The road down to the highway Bakhchisarai-Sevastopol are very steep. I rode all the time, slowing down, and clocked up 50 km/h
I don't know how it is possible to go in the opposite direction.

At the junction I caught up with the guys and we moved the track, went deep inside of Bakhchisarai.
After wandering for half an hour on it and dragging the margins are great over the railway, we finally went downtown. On the street leading along the old town.
Being in the old city (Bakhchisarai is divided into old town and new town), plunge into the Eastern atmosphere — cobbled streets, stone fences, yards in a few levels, peaches, figs, wine.

Bakhchisaray, rather old Bakhchisarai, hidden in a gorge to the left of the highway.
Street, laid on the right Bank of the river Churuk-su ("rotten water"), divides the city into two unequal parts; the length of this main artery is about 3 kilometers.
Left hanging rocks, under them - the old, medieval type, cabins with balconies (the"moucharaby"), many retaining walls and stairs. Right - the same tiled structure, occasionally - a new, modern home.

Seeing the first restaurant on the road, we decided to eat in the Tatar style.
Bicycles parked in sight on the street, having closed their chain.
And do with feet climbed on the bed.
Next to us were celebrating the beginning of the academic year Tatar girls in white aprons.
They sat purely in the company of women and drinking champagne.
Just amazing, but uhit was the first women on the way, which Rinat not photographed:)
The food we liked and served for a long time.
We've lost an hour and a half and 70 UAH(420 R) for three.

In addition, when she wanted to go, revealed that Rinat stabbed another camera, and Marat strap from a backpack spun the cassette, so much so that he had a whip to turn the ratchet
In short another half hour fiddling.

The time was about 14:00. The road passed by the Khan's Palace.
The Bakhchsarai Palace is, above all, the ancestral centre of Hera (or Giray - it all depends on how you pronounce the name of Giray): Khan dynasty, which ruled the Crimean government from the day of its Foundation.
To this genus belong the glorious 48 khans.
Bakhchisaray Khan Palace was founded by Sahib Geray I in 1532
This year is the year of Foundation of the town called Bakhchysaray.

The Palace is a rare and magnificent monument of architectural art, but today is only a shadow of its former greatness.

Fire arranged without any military necessity to break to Bakhchisaray, the Royal field-Marshal Munnich in 1736, did not bring such harm to the Palace, as a "restoration" of the 19th century.
The numerous repairs that took place after the Russian annexation of Crimea in 1783, little brought to the Palace but harm.
Since 1960, the Palace is slowly being restored and now it looks much better than 40 years ago.

And of course we stopped in his yard. Inside the Palace the boys refused to go.
Yes and look there is nothing special. I was there last year.
The interiors are quite modest and faded. Exposure now is mainly the history of the Crimean Tatars, their utensils, clothes and etc.
During the Soviet Union there was a hall of fame dedicated to the Russian army of the Crimean war, Suvorov and other generals.
Now of course this is all thrown to ne to undermine the national identity of the dominant residents.

Here is the famous Fountain of tears praised by Pushkin in his poems.
The truth is those who have never seen him disappointed, because it is not a fountain in our understanding at all.
This bas-relief procesami in the form of shells, staggered one below the other. From the eye at the top of the bas-relief drips water gradually flows from one Cup to another.

There are many legends about the creation of this fountain.

The most famous States that the fountain was made by the order of Khan Krym-Geraissati court sculptor Omer in memory of mersoy love Khan - a girl named dilara Bikech.
Khan was a fierce and cruel and no one ever pitied and not loved in my life.

"...Weights sat downcast eyes;
The amber in his mouth was Smoking;
Silently subservient yard
Round Khan the terrible crowded..."

There comes a sunset man aged the once mighty Han.
Khan's heart melted and went down into it love. Skinny little slave has conquered his anger withered heart.
But dilara did not warm with the warmth of love the old Khan, who held her in captivity until she died.

And saplala the blood of the old man's heart, and he understood how difficult it is when you lose a dear person.
He summoned to his master and commanded him to carve stone by his tears and grief to stay forever.
"If your heart is cry - cry and a stone," said Omer.

On a marble slab he carved the petals of a flower.
And in the middle of flower carved human eyes, it had to fall on the chest stone hard man's tears to burn her, still, years and centuries.
To tear the oncoming in the human eye and slowly rolled down as his cheeks and chest from the Cup into the Cup.
And cut Omer snail - a symbol of a doubt.
He knew that doubt gnaws at the soul Khan: why were all of his MSZn - if it was so little love.

"...In Tauris returned Khan
In memory of Mary bitter
Erected a marble fountain...
...There is an inscription: caustic years
Haven't smoothed it.
For alien of its features
Murmurs in the marble water
And dripping cold tears,
Do not cry never..."

The inscription on the fountain, praises Khan-Builder, "the subtlety of mind found the water and arranged a beautiful fountain..."
And "if anyone wants to (believe and see) let them come: we have seen Damascus and Baghdad.
About the sheiks! Who will quench your thirst, let the fountain of his tongue will tell the chronogram: Come, Drink the water pure, it brings healing"
Below is an inscription from the Koran:
"There in the garden of Eden, the righteous will drink water from a source Selsebil".

Thanks to Pushkin and his poem the little Crimean town acquired great fame and popularity.
And everyone thought it his duty bound to visit here.

We had a little rest in the Park, changed the currency exchanger at a sufficiently low rate (1$ - 5.3 hryvnia) and drove on.
We waited for the cave city of Chufut Kale

On the way we stopped at one of the many wine shops and bought different wine production Bakhchisaray winery.
It produces wine. Very good and most importantly cheap compared to Massandra. There we learned that the Bakhchisarai winery, which is one of the largest enterprises on manufacture of Crimean wines, is on the verge of collapse.
Some problems in connection with the change of its owners and as a result, in 2004, he almost stood. And what will happen to him is unknown.

The road to the assumption monastery begins at the end of the three-kilometer street that we passed, and is on the southern slope of the gorge Maryam-Dere (in translation from the Tatar — gorge of St. Mary).
The left of the road at the bottom of the gorge are the remains of a medieval settlement Salachik.

Of course the place is amazing - one side of the gorge Christian monastery, on the other Muslim shrines - the mausoleum of the founder of the Khan dynasty in the Crimea, Khan Hadji Giray.
above the entrance to the mausoleum is a rectangular slab with the inscription
"The sacred, the dead and the beautiful tomb he ordered to build the great Khan, the famous Khakan, ruler of the world Mengli Giray Khan, 907 (1501).(It was the son of Haji-Giray).

Before joining of Crimea to Russia there was a whole Palace complex.
In 1786, everything was destroyed. The history of these times is written many controversial.
We all learned early in the textbooks that present the version of events written by court historians of the Romanov dynasty.
Now there are alternative versions of what happened.

The road goes at the side of the gorge ,passing beneath the cliffs.
She concreted and go through it quite comfortably.
Just crowds of people walking on foot shied away from us when we, panting, drove past.

Soon we leave on a platform from which to start the wide stone stairs leading inside the Orthodox assumption monastery.

The exact date of Foundation of the monastery is unknown.
It was probably in the XV century, when the neighboring fortress of Kyrk-Er (Chufut-Kale) became the capital of the new state — the Crimean khanate, and had there Christian monastery is transferred to the opposite side of the gorge, Mairam-Dere.
At that time, the monastery was revered not only among the Christian population, but also followers of other religions.
Very revered monastery of the Khan Haji Giray. Repeatedly visited him and attended a prayer!

If you are interested to read more in detail about the history of this monastery and learn

- why Suvorov took out all the Christians from the Crimea ,

- why the Romanovs have made efforts to weaken the Crimean khanate at the expense of their own co-religionists!</strong>

- why the Crimean Khan tried to save Orthodox monastery

I made this little story in a particular place.

You are welcome here.

We stopped at the parapet in order to visit the monastery. The monk politely asked us to remove the bikes away. We rolled them to trees and tied locks.
The monastery is now almost fully restored. Over the past ten years has recreated all that was destroyed by the tsars and the Bolsheviks.

Inside the rock several rooms. One of them was a service.
Rinat saw pictures on the walls of the monastery. Began to criticize them, and then stuck to one of the priests, offering their services.
One of them refused ,but said that in order to capture the relic, you need to spend some time in their environment and feel the spirit of the Lord God.
Rinat this idea lit up quite strongly. She smoldered in it almost to the end of the campaign.
However, upon returning to Ufa worldly concerns apparently overshadowed his sublime desire:)

Despite the fact that the monastery is practically built anew - it is now experiencing not the best times.
It is connected first of all with the constant attacks of the Crimean Tatars nationalists. It seems they constantly incite local rukovoditeli.
So in 2001 there was an attack on the Shrine of Orthodox Christians .
During this shameful action spoke of threats and insults, had put up a fight, threw stones, injuring people. Despite the crime, the perpetrators were not prosecuted.
This year Tatar extremists were destroyed what are the new buildings of the monastery.
In particular, in the spring of activists of the Bakhchisarai regional Majlis have laid the frame for the awning that was built by monks. The Majlis said that the book pavilion, dLa which meant a canopy is not on the monastery grounds, and in common usage.

And then there's the leadership of the Crimea is going to cost a cable car somewhere near it, together with the Austrian firm.
Apparently on the side of Chufut-Kale it will be - on one side of the gorge to the other.
"The authorities should understand that by approving this project, they will achieve what the monks will leave the monastery," said the monk Iakinf..

Typing of Holy water in the source next we went to Chufut Kale.
The road to the cave city lies by assumption monastery.

To the right is an abandoned fountain Gazy-Mansur.
Few tens of meters of hard surface ends and the trail turns into a mixture of stones and tree roots.
I immediately dismounted and went on foot, and the guys spent some time trying to go under the amazed eye of people. How to go there! Then go to the problematic!
Finally they stuck.

In the last turn of the trail leading across the valley, suddenly opened a memorable picture: on the top, not the edge of the cliffs, towering fortress walls, towers, houses of the ancient city.
To him invisible, "secret" South gate the steep footpath...

Leaving the bikes at the bottom and tying their locks to the tree we climbed to the top.
It turned out that the entrance fee is 8 USD ( 50 AUD).

Rinat as always , he started swearing, saying that offended in their best feelings.
However, I managed to persuade the guys to still fork out. Painfully beautiful view opens from there.
Yes, and I wonder whether we are sweating and spent so much effort to get here.
However, before you go climb around in hopes of finding a loophole. But there was a sheer cliff.
Yes, ancient people knew where to build a fortress.

Feel the enemy besieging the castle and realizing the futility of trying to capture the city for free, we surrendered to the mercy of an aunt of a Concierge sitting at the entrance.
Last, desperate attempt to wydotü Rinat for the overage fellow and hold it for 4 hryvnia, too, failed miserably.

In the XIII century in a fortress lived the Alans, the most powerful of the tribes of Iranian origin.
Soon, however, the Tatar troops of the Golden Horde captured the fortress; men-warriors, as usual, were killed, the rest of the population enslaved.
After capturing the city, the Tatars placed it in his garrison, and called it differently - Kyrk-Or ("Forty fortifications").

Appreciating the fortress, the first Crimean Khan Hadji-Girey in XV century turned it into his fortified residence, creating a safe haven in a period of fighting khans with Golden Horde for independence.

After resettlement of the Crimean khans in new capital - Bakhchisaray, - Kyrk-or remained a citadel of capital and a prison for noble prisoners.
The ordeal endured by the Russian Governor, favorite of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, Vasily Sheremetev.
Twenty-one year spent Sheremetev in prison, four of the Khan was changed during this time in Bakhchisaray, but the prisoner refused to buy freedom for Russia dear price he demanded of the city of Kazan and Astrakhan.
Purchased in 1681 relatives, helpless, crippled and blind old man came back Sheremetev home.

Along the East wall the Tatars settled Karaites (Turkic in origin, the followers of the old Testament), who lived in the surrounding valleys.
Those in the late 14th and early 15th centuries was erected to protect the village one more Eastern defensive wall and three towers, thus strengthening the fortress.

From the middle of XVII century Tatars leave Kyrk-or; there remained to live only Karaites.
Tatars considered them Jews, so the city from then on became known as Chufut-Kale meaning "Jewish fortress".
Karaites lived here even more two centuries.

After the inclusion of Crimea in structure of Russia, the Karaites declared themselves its adherents, and soon the Imperial government recognizing that the Karaites not the Jews, gave them privileges, in particular, allowed them to assign officer ranks in the army.
Now they can live throughout the Empire.

Since that time, Chufut-Kale became deserted.
The inhabitants left the severe plateu and migrated to Bakhchisarai, Simferopol, Evpatoria.
In 1852 Calais was left by the last inhabitants.

In the Crimea fourteen "cave cities", some of them (Mangup, Eski-Kermen, Chufut-Kale) was quite large in size, were the centers of crafts and trade.
It was a fortress, at that time well fortified.
Inside, little has survived.
Impressive only stone roads with deep ruts - the traces of the wooden carts that rode here at some point from age to age.

There is another mausoleum of the daughter of Khan Tokhtamysh located on the edge of the fortress plateau.
She threw herself from the cliff when the father caught her with a boyfriend, or was the boss of the fortress and was killed in battle. The evidence on this point, as I understand it, is very contradictory.

Well-preserved houses of worship of the Karaite kenasa.

Behind the mausoleum in the mountain hollowed out in numerous passages.
Perhaps there was a prison which held prisoners.

But the most striking views of the gorge. Such a space ,a breathtaking , I have not seen anywhere else in the Crimea. Even on AI-Petri.
Bakhchisarai mountains resemble waves of the sea, suddenly stopped his running and petrified.
One side is flat mountains and long wooded and the other is short and steep.
Long side gradually straightens and becomes a plateau.
The steep bald side white color because of the limestone composing the hill.

We were just in one of those plateaus. The mountain is a cave where the city has the same name. By the way is not entirely clear why Chufut Kale called pesennym. Because the caves are there just not very many - only dungeon and commercial premises.niya.

After wandering some time in the city, we saw a shooting some film with the participation of Alexander Domogarova.
The sun was setting. Clouds roamed the sky, and somewhere off in the distance I heard the thunder.

We went down to our bikes. They were in one piece.
Only they are surrounded by some sort of excursion and a woman-guide was trying to sell to tourists essential oil(probably at an exorbitant price), zhivopisuya their smells and their action on health.
The faces of the people were very interested and hands reaching for wallets.
Marat had proposed to two girls standing nearby to enjoy more effective for women aroma - the smell of male sweat (which is what this stuff we had in abundance).
And it is absolutely free.
Girls interested in was the prospect, but the guide pulled them uphill and they are visible to the left.

How to move on I had a vague idea.
Knew only that we need to be on the other side of the mountain Chufut-Kale near the village of Bashtanovka.
I thought that somewhere there is a river Kacha we will find a bed. To go around the mountain would have to descend back down past the monastery of the assumption and to make a big detour. And up along the cliffs of cave city was trail. And we decided not to return.
Then followed an hour of heavy (as we thought) rise to the top. In some places it was so cool that I had to push one bike together.
"Essential" oil sweat blanketed his eyes. Finally we went into the jungle some forest.
The rise of the diminished, but there were many fallen trees across the trail.

And then our eyes opened to the abandoned cemetery.
High powerful trees , shade and overgrown with moss, the rickety tombstones.
Many of them were inscriptions in unknown languages.
It turns out it was an ancient Karaite cemetery and the inscriptions in Hebrew.

After standing there a few minutes , we dvinulasü further.
And soon came to the East gate of the fortress. It turned out that we circled the city perimeter. On a dirt road and went down.
We approached the edge of the cliff and we have captured the spirit. The view was even more astounding than the fortress itself.
And we decided to spend the night on top.

Driving along the road a little bit down, we pulled off and found a small clearing on the edge of the mountain. Foresters fear, and just a Charter badly, we decided not to put up the tent.
While preparing dinner admired the majestic krasotoi here.
Panorama of the mountains veiled light haze of fog. Reveled in the pristine air filled with the aromas of pine needles and flowers.

Not to burden this page, I made some pictures taken from the place of our overnight stay at Calais, in a separate place.

Don't be lazy check them out here - right, such beauty is worth your attention.

Had dinner , drank Bakhchisaray wine and fell asleep.
The night was warm enough.
The sky is absolutely cloudless - all the clouds where gone.
The stars shone especially bright - for as many as 560 metres we approached him.
I long could not fall asleep looking at the sky.
In this place I feel some sort of Supreme being, by looking at the earth, where billions of little people scurrying around, running around, howling