Journey to Grenlandia

A Cup of love in the powerful body of the Tarkhankut

Day 4 (28.08.2004)

Passed: 52 km
Just path: 7h 30 min
Pedal: 3h 30 min
CP.speed: 14.5 km/h
Air temperature: 29C


The Crimean Peninsula has long been a place where different tribes and nationalities. For centuries one culture replaced another.

According to its climatic conditions and geographical location available and convenient for living of primitive man was and the northwestern part of the Peninsula Tarkhankut.
Who not only lived there - the Neanderthals, the Cimmerians,the Chersonesites, Scythians, Sarmatians.
The early middle ages is characterized by the invasion of many nomadic tribes on the territory of Crimea and Tarkhankut - the Goths, Alans, Huns, Khazars, Pechenegs, Cumans, Turkic tribes avalanche fell on the Crimean land, destroying or occupying own dwelling existed here before the settlement, destroying or taking into slavery of the local population.
In X - XI centuries in the Crimea there, the Polovtsy-Kipchaks , who came from the Volga and the Urals.
They suffered the fate of many tribes that inhabited the Crimea in ancient times, they finally merged with other tribes, primarily from the Mongol Tatars , forming a new ethnic group - the Crimean Tatars.

The first Khan of independent Crimean Tatar state was viewed as Haji Giray, declared Crimea independent from the Golden Horde in 1449г.

In Turkic languages the word "Iran" means "free from duties and taxes, privileged." "Tarkhan letters" — acts exempt honalulu, fees and providing any other benefit. They were distributed in different state formations, including the Golden Horde in Russia, and the Crimean khanate existed until the early eighteenth century.

Obviously, hence the name, established in this far corner of the Crimea, judicial district of Tarkhan.

The story of the Crimean khanate in 1783, joining to Russia.
As for the Crimea began a new phase of its history as a part of the mighty Russian Empire.
The main Slavic population on the Peninsula after the annexation of Crimea to Russia were serfs and state peasants from Ukraine and Russia, brought here by order of the landlords and the tsarist authorities.
One of the first settled down and settled in newly acquired lands, major-General V. S. Popov, establishing savings Tarkhan (now the village) and moved the serfs of his estate - the village of Vasilievka.
Probably, these farmers came to be called the Western corner of the Peninsula of Tarkhany Kut (angle in Ukrainian) or Tarkhankut.

Overnight on the ground that the trampling of the horses of the Scythians passed without incident. Although sleep is not very. Interfere with all sorts of extraneous sounds. And on the pebbles uncomfortable to sleep.

Got up the next morning all before - even to persuade.
Rinat began gradually to suhat space around feet.
And we decided not to go further along the coast in the direction of the tract Dzhangul.
Because there are UPS and downs even more. Rinat said that, in principle, can go. But decided not to risk his health unnecessarily.
I saw there shestidesyatimetrovoy rocky cliffs fancy pierced water. But... there is a reason to come back:)

From the beam in her valley road goes straight to the Village. That's where we went. First, the road leads gently up and then to the Olenevka continuous descent of about five kilometers. Here we are there was going. Although I had to slow down - still not the asphalt. And Marat Rinat seem to do about the brake I forgot.
Imagine how moaning racks on their bikes ,taking constant blows twenty five pound of cargo on potholes.
We must pay tribute TranzX - it is good - and similar articlesateljstva soldiered on almost to the end of the campaign.

Olenevka is located on the banks Karajishi Bay, near Cape Tarkhankut (the extreme Western point of the Crimea).
Beautiful sandy beach with a width up to 30 m. From the North and from the South to the village looms lakes estuary Sary-Gol mud. The village itself is very presentable. Food prices in shops are the most expensive on the whole, the black sea.
However, we had to purchase food or water - because who knows what we can expect next. Roads inside the village heavily defeated - a feeling that the last time the roads here put even when the General-major Popov.

Olenivka is considered dayvingom and surfbeam centre of Crimea. It attracts lovers of extreme sports. Perhaps that is why housing prices here are quite high.
Everywhere signs about the rental akvalangistov equipment.
Diving on either side of Olenevka right Dzhangulskoe rocks, precipices to the left of the Big Atlesh, which came later.

But the main attraction of this place is lighthouse.
It leads to oddly enough quite a decent road. It seems this is caused by the fact that the lighthouse is the territory of Russia, and they follow the access roads. In any case, a sharp konstrastom after the ruts of the village obvious.
It turns out all the lighthouses in the Crimea belong to the Russian Federation.
More precisely they dispose of the Ministry of defense of Russia. Formally, all black sea lighthouses belong to Ukraine, Russian military only lease them. However, the Ukrainian side is not satisfied, as deprives her of the opportunity to obtain the so-called lighthouse collection.

This sector of the fleet was not mentioned in the previously signed agreement on the division of the fleet, and the Russian military is not allowed the Ukrainians to some hydrographic facilities in the South of Crimea.
Ukrainians tend to get lighthouses, lighthouse towns and associated navigation sector.
And the Russian sailors fear the consequences.
They doubt that Ukraine will be able to provide full serviceuzhivanie navigation systems and means to guarantee the safety of navigation.
In 1993, the American experts examined several navigation objects that have moved Ukraine in result of the partition of the black sea fleet. It turned out that objects disappeared equipment worth about 10 million dollars. Therefore, the area of Ishmael to Nikolaev was even declared unsafe for navigation.
Willing to believe ,especially if you look at what has become Balaklava shelter for submarines after the transfer of it to Ukraine.
The litigation is still ongoing.
I would like to hope that the parties will come to vzaimoraschety decision.

By the way the Director of the beacons are determined and do not intend to give up without a fight lighthouse farm:)
In Yalta we met with the warden of the Yevpatoriya lighthouse. He told us this was told, Yes, invited to rest for next year there. Perhaps it would be interesting, the spot we recorded.

Tarkhankutskii inside of the lighthouse is not allowed. But on the territory of the lighthouse, you can go and walk in the Park around him. And it costs 1 hryvnia with snout so to speak.
This is what we told the surly-looking man at the entrance.
Rinat in his spirit began to fire everyone. Said Boas ,but will not pay a penny, that on its citizens, only Russia can make money, what they do is to jump into the legs and let the tears of emotion at the sight of his compatriots.

Had to see the lighthouse from the side. And to use the evidence of who was there:)

The area is rich in underwater rocks and shallows. Therefore, it's always been a lot of shipwrecks. And before on the Cape a lighthouse was built, the locals just lit bonfires, warning mariners of approaching a dangerous area.
The height of the lighthouse about 40 feet, its light is visible for 17 miles. In Crimea, beacons, similar Tarhankutsky five.
Tower height of 42m was builtand of white Inkerman limestone in 1816.
The quality of construction was so great that for the past 185 years the lighthouse was carried out only cosmetic repairs. 142 step cast-iron spiral staircase and you are at the site of the lighthouse.
The heart beacon - crystal lens,much like the fantastic "techno"-a flower.
At the lighthouse there are two lamps for each kilowatt. They operate synchronously. If one fails, the spare automatically enabled. The light hits at 32 km.

For almost 200 years, the lighthouse has survived several earthquakes and strong hurricanes. In 1944, the Nazis, leaving the Crimea, decided to blow it up. But the local boy, 14-year-old Sergei Motsar, was able to defuse the charge.

Just beyond the lighthouse is the most impressive sight in the Peninsula.
Just a kilometer you have to pull along the coast and cliffs, terminating in the sea, reaching a height of 40 meters. This Is A Big Atlesh. Standing on the edge of the cliff and stare at these white walls left and right, stretching to the horizon on a stormy sea ,roaring somewhere far away under your feet, and you feel like you are at the origins of the universe.

I do not even want to talk about anything - just mad delight eager and bubbling somewhere deep inside.
At the bottom , like ants on the rocks crawl, the people who have gone down there on the steep slopes.
The picturesque limestone cliffs prongs are issued into the sea, forming bays of different widths.
At the end of one of these coves in the sea enters the rock, it punched waves arch, no way inferior to the beauty of the "Golden gate" Kara-Dag.
To the sea is steep , carved into the rock staircase.
Say, halfway down in the rock there is a layer of limestone "melons" with a diameter of 50 centimeters. If such "melon" cut it in the middle of it, you can find angular fragment of rock, banded petrified algae. Elsewhere you can see the imprint of a fossil fish with a length of over a meter.
But we didn't see it:)

We went Yeswhere along the coast. The side of the Small Atlesh. The height of the rocks is reduced to 5-10 meters.

Cars and people more and more. Dusty road - continuous the crushed limestone. On one slide I speeding, did not have time to slow down and to avoid crashing into going ahead and tarried Rinat was forced to abruptly turn the steering wheel and fell on its side. Then my backpack with one hand of black turned into white.

Where does Marat has lost its froth. Probably not secured and did not notice as she jumped. Searches in what have not resulted.
A lot of people goes and probably quirky , so maybe the foam didn't even touch the ground as it capitalized:)

On one of the headlands is the fishing plant.
Here is one of the best places for catching mullet and mackerel. And catch them the old-fashioned way. On the cliff is a crane - Caravia - which lowers the net into the sea.

Small Atlesh is at a distance of 4-5 km from the Great.

The coast between Big and Small Atlases replete with tents, caves, niches. The walls of caves and grottos covered with small stalactites brushes, the bottom is littered with quaint stone statues. In these cliffs is known in the art, but not yet investigated the low-lying cave : the entrance is located below sea level on 10 meters! In these places they filmed the movie "the amphibian Man" and "Pirates of the twentieth century"

In the tract of the Small Atlesh attracts the attention of a gigantic tunnel, punched waves in the thickness of the Cape.
Under its arches can pass a sailing boat. Amazing and round Bay. Its shape is so perfect ! Diameter of coil 15 meters, the sea filled in the recess . During a storm waves of the sea rushing into the Bay , breaking on the rocks, spray flying fan - picture memorable!

Nearby is the Chalice of Love - closed "saucer", which is a natural pool with sun-warmed water. The people here just pandemonium. There are tents. Range of mountains of garbage. Such a contrast to the pristineth natural beauty of these places.
Guys why do something like that here where it will stay overnight. I hardly convinced them to go further.
We had a swim. And Marat said that even swam through the tunnel.

The time was late evening.
Not stopping at Cape Coast, we drove through the village of Mar'ino and Okunevka.
Okunevka very clean and comfortable. I bought food and got the water in one of the courtyards. The water here is also a big deficit.
It pays decent by the standards of money.
Had to give a torque to the grandmother.
Asphalt road between Marino and Okunevka and on to thunder very good.
After driving from Okunevka a few kilometers we turned off the highway to the sea. Amazing how the shore has changed. Now we caught sight of clay slopes.
The dirt road going along we passed another three or four kilometers until I saw a series of beautiful sandy beaches. The people on them were but a little.
We drove off the cliff to the beach. Dropped everything and before sunset bathed and decomposed in the sun.
Marat decided to show off and took off the backpack and travel light drove along the beach right at the water's edge. People puzzled glances looked after him.

We decided to rest here for the night and all the next day.
Swim and sunbathe finally enough.

Little did we know that our rainbow plans were not fated to come true.