Journey to Grenlandia

The glamorous charm of the South coast

Day 14 (07.09.2004)

Morning all got up quickly and without objection.
Immediately obvious - rested and fattening him up. Quickly ate and gathered.
The garbage was loaded on the bikes. Looked latest eyes, our refuge. Said goodbye to Nadia (she left) and moved along the shore.
After a few hundred meters visible trail ended. And we did not dare to go further.
Where just walk - on Laden bikes can be stuck simple.
Especially on the rocks was more and more.
So we decided to climb to the top. On the map we had to go to some forestry.
And he was already paved road to the highway to Yalta. We went up in a barely noticeable trail, winding among the relict junipers and pines.
Had to get off the bike and walk.


At first the rise was small and we, though with an effort, but it was each with his bike.
Top view of opened exclusive.
Vast blue to the horizon and the green wave of the forest around like the two seas was closed.

And then it's time for a collective rolling.
Alone drag a bike was impossible.
His feet slipped on small stones, muscles ached from the strain.
One of us pushed the bike in the back, the other behind the wheel he pulled.
So small segments we alternately moved our horses up.
The mountains here were not like Bakhchisaray.
Tired twice - if there was a three-day vacation before.
Several times vacationing. The beauty around is not happy.

It seemed the grief would never end.
Behind the next turn of the narrow trail opened new heights.
Finally after two hours of role velosipedov we got to the primer. The same one that was supposed to bring to the point on the map called "forestry".

And led. Only "forestry" was not "forestry". and most of this military unit.
However what abandoned and dilapidated. Barracks with broken Windows.
Around the trash and desolation. Other there was no road and we drove through the area the benefit of any fences from the sea was not present.
Imagine our surprise when we pulled up to the gate part and they are trapped. In a moment where it jumped the soldier and began to shout, wildly rolling his eyes, on the topic of how we got in.
About what is a barrier and signs. Nothing we haven't seen what and told him in the most delicate terms.
Well, the question is of course also so delicate for which was generally capable of.
Whether the soldier lost in time and all these barriers have collapsed a long time ago , whether from the sea, no one was waiting, no idiots.
In General, five minutes later we came to a mutual consensus and they let us out.

Useful note: on most maps of the Crimea there are designations: "forestry", "summer camp", etc., but in fact it was designated the location of military units, some of which have already been eliminated.
But we did not know it then.

Then we raced with the wind downhill. On the way kicked some grapes.
By 11:00 went on the road Sevastopol-Yalta.
Ahead of us waited the longest Tyagun for the entire trip.
Up to Cape Balaclava road goes all the way up. And it's a good 15-20 miles.
But after the previous ascent from the beach, we have had nothing to fear.
We have overcome this area in just over an hour.
Rinat, as always, on asphalt, went ahead for his hybrid bike was now full expanse.
We stopped only once near the village of Pottery to eat grapes.

After the last pass in front of the sea the road passes through the gallery - it is a protective structure, apparently from the rockfall.
It offers a beautiful panorama of the Bay Laspi.
And here begins the part of the Crimea , which is called atK (Southern Coast Of Crimea).
We only stopped to take a picture with a Church and drove on.

Here the path met cyclists from Belarus.
Almost every time when meeting colleagues has been stopped with the exchange of impressions and experience.
Rinat immediately embarked on a lengthy explanation about the route and where to go and how.
However, he is hopelessly confused all the names. It was the settlements of the mountain or something.
Not in the least bothered, he attacked the startled interlocutors just the ninth wave of impressions and recommendations.
And it could not stop until done.

Next we drove almost without stopping. Passed Cape Sarych.
Somewhere down below was the former summer residence of Gorbachev, where he sat during the coup in 1991.
Now it is the summer residence of Leonid Kuchma.
And began to be heavily guarded.
Is Kuchma were resting there at the time, as we passed nearby.
This of course we did not know.
Just wondered what the traffic cops a lot.
DAI is theirs by the police(similar to our traffic).

And wow, Rinat itch to shoot us in this place.
I do not know what attracted him, but he drove forward with the purpose to capture separately as we Marat nutrogena get on a small ascent.
Marat went first, and I slowed down a bit to give the opportunity for individual shooting.
Then he went himself.
Look - Rinat guys are taking pictures next to Marat and the two cops.
I drove up to inquire what happened.
Ukrainian guardsman says - here the photograph is prohibited.
Rinat blackened with anger face yells that it found terrorist, and that in actual fact he is not a terrorist, if you look closely, that in fact terrorists are and what have the police to look for the real terrorists, not to stick to world renowned photographers.
Marat thoughtfully silent next.

The COP looks at me quizzically and asks, poking at Rinat - what it's like with him.
Well, had to apologize for all before the power.
Sorry, they say, the road was difficult, tired our friend, nerves are not the limit and I lashed out.
In General, we have a Sunny bike ride devoted to the Republic and its President Lightbringer.
That's how it says desnick, well then another thing, then everything is clear and happy way.
And on the left.
Rinat managed to photograph only Marat closeup.


Drove past the turn to baydarsky pass.

... Dawn Over the sea, under the canopy of clouds,
Azure morning brightens;
versini Baydar bizarre cliffs
Clear and softly blue.
Bunin


At the bottom of the sea were seen foros, and left on a high cliff could be seen the Church of the ascension of Christ.
For a long time foros remained fairly secluded area, tucked away on the South of Crimea.
Due to the August events of 1991 the name of a small village rocked the whole world.
Soon after the Soviet Union collapsed.
The era of private enterprise and the free tourism.
And it turned out that no wonder the management of the Affairs of the Central Committee of the CPSU has built a huge sanatorium, and the Secretary General of the party had the country: the beauty of foros very worth it.

One of the main assets of this resort is foros Park.
Certainly next time it will be necessary to take the time and visit.
We did not - a big minus for me as the organizer of the route.

The first trees were planted in the Park in the XVIII century, the then owner of the foros Prince Potemkin.
Finally formed a Park when Kuznetsov, charamalone and farforovaya who have invested in their foros estate a lot of money.
The total area of 70 hectares grows more than 200 kinds and forms of trees and shrubs, most of which make an exotic breed.
The most remarkable place is in the middle part of the Park is a Paradise with beautifully arranged on different levels of well-arranged six artificial lakes.
They are connected by channels in a single cascade, in combination with unique vegetation, making this area a unique originality.
The variety of strange plants of the Park competed with the Nikitsky Botanical garden, a beautiful landscape composition with the Park Alupka Palace of count Vorontsov.
During the A. G. Kuznetsov, the Park was inhabited by many rare birds and animals, up to the antelope.

About the origin of the Church Voznesenskoe several legends.
Built she was the former owner of the foros estate, merchant Kuznetsov in memory of rescue of Emperor Alexander III and his families at train wreck in which the king was returning to Petersburg.
In 1920 the Church was closed, flushed crosses, painted painted, rector of the Church sent to Siberia.
The Church opened a restaurant, then it was an abandoned warehouse, and after a fire in the warehouse the Church in General was abandoned.
On the restoration of the temple in 1987 fussed Raisa Gorbachev.
A few years ago it was completed the restoration work, and now again resumed service.

Not far from this Church originated the old Crimean road laid directly at the foot of the ridge.
Since a new road was constructed - the one on which we rode old not used.
In some places even covered with landslides.

Wide valley at the foot of the mountains to the Foros and shallow narrows through the gorge leads to the Baidar pass 527 m above sea level.m.), running arch "Baidar gates", was erected in 1848 in honor of the opening of the old road.
Baydarsky pass was in the last century, a gateway to the South coast.
About foros Soviet times heard an interesting story.
One of the mostx popular places in Crimea among climbers is rock solid Sail near foros. On its surface there are all categories of routes - from simple, where you can pass anyone who is not afraid of heights, to the routes of the highest categories of complexity.
And the side of the cliff, facing the sea, is the "mirror", i.e., a smooth, slightly inclined plate, which can pass only on friction.
With this "mirror" and linked this case.
Parus rock well seen from the government residence in foros.
Once Mikhail Gorbachev came to rest, and after a couple of hours in the Parking lots of climbers appeared stern uncle, who was told all of them to get out.
Climbers took offense and the night, armed with flashlights and spray paint, they brought into the entire surface of the mirror in General, harmless inscription:"Mr. Paradise". And disappeared into the night.
In the morning "mirror" tried unsuccessfully to attack two companies of soldiers.
Well, at least nobody crashed, as without special training there is nothing to do.
The perpetrators were never found, and the inscription he lived for another six months.

After another fifteen minutes on the highway we reached the Sanatorium village.
I must say that on the southern coast of the Crimea all the settlements are by the sea and to get into them, still need to go from the main road down another God knows knows how long.
And then you have to climb back up the hill to the track.
It was one of the reasons we priezjali past many interesting places.

Near the Sanatorium village at the foot of the sawtooth ridge of volcanic origin called ay-Urey or Dragon descending to the sea, lies the sanatorium "Mellas".
One of the buildings is the Palace of the original architecture.
It was built in the 30-ies of the last century the then owner of the manor is the Earl of L. A. Perovski the famous Russian statesman.
After him the estate was owned by his nephew, major Russian poet A. K. Tolstoy, one of the founders of the literary character of Kozma Pruckova.

Two kilometers from the shores of the Dragon is riddled with tunnel road Yalta - Sevastopol.
The tunnel is small - of 300-400 meters, and not illuminated with electric lamps inside.
To go a bit disgusting.
Ahead you see a light outlet opening, and under the wheels of pitch darkness.
The result is visited by a strange feeling of losing confidence when pedaling.

Ponizovka - urban village.
Located in the mountain amphitheatre, framed by the capes of the protrusions Kikeneiz, Uzun and Trinity, 5 km from Simeiz and 2 km on West from Katsiveli.
A significant part of the land to the West of Simeiz was owned by General F. Revelioti, commander of the border battalion of Balaklava, the headquarters of which was located in the village of Kikeneiz (now S. landslide).
In 1830 General Revelioti builds here giving the “Holy Trinity”, which is located on the site of the present village, in approximately the same territorial boundaries.
In the mid-nineteenth century cottage “Holy Trinity” was transferred as inheritance to his son, General A. Reveliotis, who in 1886 sold the manor in retail at the auction.
The Central part of the acquired Alekseevskoe mining society, Eastern artist A. Kuindzhi, West E. Alchevsk.
Estate of A. Kuindzhi located in the beam Tarter, between the current Ponizovka and Katsively, and was called “Naning-Chukhur” (gully Peppermint) to the famous beach and stone Uzun-Tash, which is reflected by the artist in different sketches and paintings.

Katsiveli - a small urban village.
Located between between Simeiz (3 km) and Ponizovka.

Before the village was developed exclusively as a research centre - the village is a branch of Marine hydrophysical Institute of Academy of Sciences them.Shuleikina, there is the astronomy Department of the Crimean astrophysical Observatory.
There is a radio telescope with a parabolic antenna with a diameter of 22 meters, allowing to carry out unique research of the Universe.
Near the radio telescope you can see a round withweapons — storm the pool hydrophysical Institute , where they carried out observations of sea currents, we study the causes of storms.
If alive now is unknown.
For more fruitful work of scholars was built a sanatorium, which was named the House of creativity of scientists in Katsiveli. Now this is an ordinary boarding house, many travel agencies offer tours.
By the way this show is annually held Symposium on robotics.
Which was attended by one old friend - lecturer of the Department of Technical Cybernetics, Aviation University of Derince Oleg.

Scientific, orientation of the village contributed to the development of his resort, so Katsiveli, until recently, remained unknown to the General public.
Some time ago, near Katsiveli appeared first in Crimea the aquapark "Blue Bay".
People began to come more in the village began to build a more or less normal cottages, shops appeared, in General, the town has become a resort view.

The place is a bit not fit into the General view of the South coast - South coast is no such flavor - more of a nature similar to the Eastern Crimea.

I had to look for a Parking space.
Encountered informed their children of Belarus said that the mountain Cat last place before Yalta, where more or less you can pitch a tent.

After passing the water Park, along the serpentine we went up to the foot of the Cat.
Bizarre shape justifies its name: when it really guess as if fell to the shore head up the slope — curved "back" (up to 260 m above sea level), and then the "tail" of a giant cat.
Near it are scattered original under the form calcareous rocks: step out onto the sea Diva(sea side it allegedly visible image of the girl's face), Swan wing.

The road wraps around the rock and leads to Simeiz his house are already visible around the bend.r /> as a result, we turned down and drove off down the dirt road to the sea.
Especially him not go - around the rocks and stones.
Here generally it is forbidden to put up tents - as the inscription on the column.
But it looks like all it wanted to sneeze.
The people here are the order wanders right Broadway then.
We hardly found a place quite close to the rock the Swan wing.
Perhaps for all of the previous campaign this was the most uncomfortable car Park.
While we unpacked, Rinat decided to look around and down to the water - which resulted in several photos of the rock Diva from the Swan Wing.
And a piece of the Wing from the bottom.
The water never came down - quite stressful, and there was nothing - a bit stormy and the waves were crashing against the coastal rocks with a cloud of tiny splashes.

Time was not later ima Marat, leaving Rinat in the camp, went lightly to Simeiz for food.

At the Western foot of the mountain Cat and its proximity to Simeiz is situated the sanatorium "Blue Bay", and in the upper part of the valley is the village of the same name.
In the future it is planned to build quite a large international leisure centre and a Park, landscaped steps down to the sea.

Sameis quite beautiful although very dilapidated and as if abandoned.
In the early nineteenth century it was a small Tatar village, with a population of somewhere around 480 people.
In the XIX - early XX centuries in Simeiz built cottages eminent dignitaries and rich Industrialists.
In 1828 came to rest Russian industrialist Ivan Akimovich Maltsov.
Nature to him so much that he decided to buy all the land. After his death, Simeiz land was inherited by his son Sergei.
Sergey engaged in little village, he was more interested in engineering.
Before his death, Sergey Maltsev bequeathed the village to his sons John and Nicholas, one of them had a thirst for knowledgements, the other to Commerce, one which is built and planned, the other successfully traded.
With the start of the revolution, Nikolai goes to Spain, and Ivan continues to engage in the development of the village until 1920, the red guards murdered in a near Uchan-su waterfall.

Simeiz is the only city of Yalta, which was well planned (in the sense of supply of the communications, the location of the streets).
In the 20-ies of XX century many estates were transferred to sanatoria and rest homes.

The most famous villas – Villa "Ksenia" and "Dream" went like most good business – they opened a children's sanatorium.
Executed in blue and white Moorish-style Villa "Dream" – the younger sister of the famous Grand Palace "Dulber" and Kichkine and Yalta dacha of the Emir of Bukhara.
Hard to believe, but true: it is only completed in the mid-1920s!. For seven decades the Villa was pretty dilapidated, and in the era of great change has passed upon him a truly deadly tornado.
"Xenia" was built in 1911 by architect N. Krasnov, now she is famous as "haunted houses".
Villa "Dream" and "Xenia" was clearly visible from our Parking lot under the mountain.

Another attraction of the town - walk "naked men" (as the campers call it), framed by palm trees and cypresses statues of ancient gods, among which accidentally wormed lonely Venus.
Are copies of Apollo and Antinous.
With their hands they indicate just where begins the path to the foot of the cliff, Swan wing, on either side of which is (as we learned from bystanders) one of the biggest in the Crimea nudist beaches (highly visible part of which is the plot for "non-traditional sexually oriented." Why joke sometimes about the symbolism of the name "Blue Bay".)

We passed this alley and went to the shops.
Marat left guard are great and I went shopping, among others have purchased and fat so unsuccessfully sought by us earlier.
This is my purchase was the talk of the town. Fat, as we discovered later, was raw. I could not imagine that it is raw - bought and not looked - I think the fat is a fat.
Me for a long time laughed and remembered until the very end of the campaign.

On the way back, bought water and pasties. Their shares kamakeli immediately and Rinat dovezli safe and sound.

On the other side of the Wing was the camp of a local "Indians" - absolutely insane individuals.
Whether fallen into prostration, or stoned something - the reaction to our presence was zero. If we were not people but empty space.
These guys and maybe some others made the night a Grand concert, which we could not sleep.

A few people somewhere on the top played classical music.
The girl on the violin, the boys on the reels (such for playing drums with your hands - congas and bongos).
The sound is repeatedly reflected by mountains, echoing far around.
The blood froze in my veins! A striking effect.
They played Bach, Mozart, then some kind of ethnic music.
And so almost all night without stopping! In General, we cannot say that we slept then. The next morning our permanent specialist encounters of the third kind Rinat ran to Express to them his admiration. But his attempts to attract at least some attention was no more effective than before.

Some recovery occurred only when we decided to give them a raw fat rash I bought shortly before.

Well at least it will fit anyone.