Journey to Grenlandia

Mountains our names

Day 9 (02.09.2004)

Passed: 42,4 km
Just path: 9h
Pedal: 3h 52мин
CP.speed: 11.2 km/h
Air temperature: 33C


The morning greeted us with bright sun. From evening mist over the mountains and left no trace.
We lit a small fire to dry their sleeping bags.
The night before we decided not to do it, so as not to attract attention.
In the dark at an altitude of 600 meters, the fire from the fire was visible for miles around.

While washed and cooked-examined the surrounding area.
Our Parking lot was located in a clearing on the edge of the Board mount Chufut Calais.
The edge of the mountain on this side was a such a giant comb , the teeth of which served rocky ledges.
We visited all the nearest teeth. The extraordinary beauty and photographing the perfect place.
Mind boggling when you approach the edge - like and the height is not very big, but inside all is compressed in a quiet delight.

To the North on the nearby mountain could be seen the white caps of the telescopes of the Crimean Observatory , located in the town called Scientific.
The Observatory is located in mountain forest areas at an altitude of 600 m above sea level. On its territory there are guided tours with a visit to the telescopes to look at the starry sky, see planets, nebulas and galaxies.
On the territory of the academic town about two dozen telescopes.
They are hidden in the dense foliage of rare trees, brought more than fifty years ago from the Nikitsky Botanical garden.
In the end, the Observatory has evolved in the magical Park.

Certainly, if you happen to visit these places again, need to stop off there. To feel the fragility of our small planet and closer to the stars closer.

To the South-East catches the eye of lonely standing coneobraznaya mountain . That Tepe Kermen.
According to the Turkish name (Tepe - the top of the mountain, Kermen fortress), there once could be a fortress, but no traces of fortifications on the hill is not detected.
The settlement of Tepe-Kermen is located on the mountain of the same name-an outcrop in the distance looks like a ship or island.
If you climb to the top (540 m above sea level and 250 above the surrounding terrain), offers a beautiful panorama on the valley of the river Kacha, zagromozhdennye mountains of the Main ridge, the hills covered with forests.
On the surface of the plateau is scattered remainders of buildings - former houses with household buildings and churches.
The temples here were a few, surface and cave.

Just South of Tepe-Kermen is seen whitish comb Kyz-Kermen - one of the mountains with the remains of settlements.
And somewhere far below, the white snake curled a road located in the valley.

Didn't want to leave but time is relentless. It counted minutes of our journey and we understand what we need to see many more interesting, gathered and rolled down a dirt road leading down from Chufut Kale.
A dirt road leads along the edge of the plateau, which offers beautiful views of near and distant surroundings, and then departs from her path left and down into the woods, which mainstream Tepe-Cermeno. But we drove on.
The road is good, though a little rocky.
Several times we stopped to re-approach the edge of the mountain and look at new types.

After 20 min reached a fork.
To the right was visible in the distance Bakhchisarai and we went left.
In the result, rode in a beautiful forest,but rather a thick forest.
The road was getting worse and steeper. Harder had to go - there were lots of fallen trunks and branches.
Doubt crept in - and are we wrong.
But there was no way back. We drove quite a lot and had to go back to walk. Because the descent was quite sharp and up to go wouldlo is almost impossible.

The road gradually turned to the trail and ran into a gaping black man-made cave.
It was an abandoned quarry. When then they extracted the rock - cutter marks were visible on the walls and ceiling of the cave.

Next the trail almost disappeared and we had to Wade through the thicket. Often to get off the bikes and drag them through the trees.
Finally, a glimmer of light and we went to the cliff. Above us towered the cliffs and in the distance could be seen down the road.

Unknowingly we went to the rocky massif Kachi-Kalon.
Right below us to the left and to the right was the route to the Bashtanovka along the river Kacha.
This array is also one of the historical monuments.
In the rocks are many man-made caves and remnants of temples.
One of the translations of “Kachi-Kalon” -“Ship Quality”, “cross ship”.
The settlement consists of 120 caves. Of the caves — economic purpose (corrals, storage, vinogradarey — tarapany and others), and the other part for religious purposes.
The settlement that arose probably in the sixth century. Soon after the settlement erected a fortified shelter.
It was founded, apparently, the monks who fled from Byzantium during the struggle between the iconodules and iconoclasts.
The influence of the monastery grew gradually and spread to all the surrounding settlements.
In the years of Tatar domination, the monastery received help from the Russian state and ceased in 1778, after the resettlement of Christians from the Crimea.

In the mid-NINETEENTH century there was built a Hermitage of St. Anastasia, abolished in 1921
We found in the cave Church with an altar - perhaps it vostanovlenie skit. But to ask there was nobody.
After wandering a bit along the trail and looking we went down to the track and drove toward the Produsele.
On the way stopped for water at a spring located in a small grotto under the mountain.
We needed to get in the village of Turgenevka. I decided to take a shortcut and we turned to the Ford across the river Kacha.

The river was small, but quite rough.
Here decided to take a break. Rinat is the first time raschehlili his fishing rod and walked away to catch fish.
Nothing caught, we started to cross a water barrier. The bottom was very stony and the water is freezing.
The depth was small, but in some places it was possible to soak the backpack

Marat rollicking moved without Dismounting from the bike, using our previously explored the fairway.

To Turgenevka arrived quickly on a decent dirt road running through the field.
Bought some food and water and through the next field went in the Tank.
Went on the road Bakhchisaray-Yalta in the area of high-voltage lines.

At the entrance to the village Tank we turned right.
The road will lead first in the village of Red poppy, and then in the village zalesny.
Front C. Tank offers scenic views of the so-called "gate of the Belbek".
Belbeksky canyon formed by the river Belbek in the limestones of the Inner ridge.
Water as it breaks through the mountain chain, so the canyon is often called the the Belbek gate. The canyon is 160 m, width of top is about 300 meters.
Exposed to weathering, steep slopes of the gorge form a kind of natural sculptures, resembling giant lurking monsters, the Egyptian sphinxes, the plate-fin separately.
Although I thought they recalled the giant heads of us presidents carved on the rocks in South Dakota (memorial mount Rushmore, Gutmana created by Borglum in 1927).
The stone "heads" involuntarily attract attention. And always think someone is watching you.

Even before descending in the village Tank offers a memorable panorama of the Belbek valley, lying framed by whimsical cliffs.
They say that if a certain percentage of imagination nand the opposite side of the road to see the fabulous stone dragon, drinking water from Belbek.
Here the route goes sharply down. Before turning in the direction of the red Poppy bought some drunk fresh apples -very tasty.
The bridge over the river Belbek we raced at great speed. I even miraculously fit into the turn sharply bending road.

Red poppies we passed without stopping.
In Zalesnoye met hikers returning from Eski Kermen. Faces of the girls were very tired and exhausted. And our faces was probably still ahead. After the village turned again to the right towards the mountains.

Then for two hours we sweat, sometimes getting off the bike, went around the ridge Points-Koba.
The track is scenic but is constantly going up. In the middle of the wide groove - gully. When it rains apparently there rushes a turbulent flow. On the way I asked once the direction of the tractor ,plowing the land on the field between the hills. Gave him water.
Has reached the mountain on which the cave city pooped.

Fortress Eski-Kermen (it was known as Cherkez-Kermen - the Circassian fortress), as suggested by scholars, was built by Byzantine residents in the late 6th century to cover the approaches to Khersones, their strong point in the South-Western Crimea.

At the foot of the plateau, who then founded the farm.
We foolishly ,not knowing where the lift is upstairs, passed a fenced field and found himself right in front of the main entrance.

There besides the cash register(the input 4 of the hryvnia) was a tavern.
Smoke from grilling shashlik was felt a mile away.
In addition there was a small swamp and the words that the fishing in it is paid. Was in charge of all the economy of a local man named Vova.
And he prodval "wine" on tap.
On the counter stood a dozen plastic bottles with the words "Black doctor","Port","Muscat", etc. and uniform price of 15 UAH per liter. I for fun asked the friend.AMB pseudo Black doctor.
A small cap from a bottle I had to then the whole day was tormented by belching with a smell of cheap Cologne and toilet deodorant.
You wonder how people actually fall for that Scam. But the owners of this liquor it is made and sells apparently.
As long as fools are alive around - good luck to them not to let go of:)

However, we slashed at each other.
Whether we were quite tired and our wit was out, or something like that, but we paid him the money for the entrance.
And the place where it was necessary to begin the ascent was a completely different side and we could go there for free - tickets are no checks.

Rinat was always in a bad mood because of the money spent.
In addition, we are a little lost, and instead of starting the climb from the North side went to the South, noticing the rotation.
Great we are again left at the foot of the mountain - tied them and attached to the tree. Although Rinat Marat was trying to call them to the top. Oh youth youth:)
However they are from the trees not see what path lies ahead.
It not that go to climb on foot was difficult.

As a result, we immediately turned on the southern borders of Eski Kermen
on the main street of the city with classic Byzantine cities "narrow".
Such a rut can be seen in other Byzantine towns (e.g. Calais) and "Roman ruins" of the Mediterranean.
And if Chufut Kale said it was the wheels of carts over the years has hollowed the stone , then we heard from the tour guide (and the people there went badly and we were attached to the city) that she was deliberately vydalblivanii in stone, to make the movement of chariots and carts more safe for both riders and pedestrians.
And wooden wheels to beat out a rut in the stone, the more deep, impossible.

In the Empire there were the standard size of this gauge (with his account had built not only roads, but carts).
The technology of the movement of the chariot along a paved track disappeared after the collapse of the Byzantine Empire. Over time, it was just improved. In Europe, the first trams were pulled along the rails (already iron) rides horses.

In General again faced with a different interpretation of history (and again subsequently).

Moving to the North on the right side of the plateau, smotreli multi-storey cave complexes, boulders carved into the shape of an egg.
There are several floors. Titanic labor of the people did not say anything.

Came about the main coprimaterassi - siege of the well, which was used by the inhabitants of the city during the siege.
It is located in the North-Eastern part of the plateau, deep in the mountains.
From the surface of the plateau is broken and mine is carved out in the rock massif a steep staircase with 77 steps.
Deep well ends 10-meter gallery.
The amount allowed to accumulate up to 70 cubic meters of water, which the inhabitants of Eski-Kermen was used during the siege of the city. Power flowed from natural caves. Here the water was one of the coldest in the Crimea.
Took the skins from the skin - came down filled with water and went upstairs
Now the stairs are already collapsed and is not safe down there, although the woman guide was assured that she recently there kakmo the kids down.

Eski-Kermen was well fortified.
Stretched over the cliffs defensive walls from large blocks of limestone with a thickness of 2 m and a height of 2.5-3.5 m.
Towers-casemates were carved out of the rocks or built of stone.
Most of the territory of the fortress was undeveloped-as a reserve of the protected area and refuge for the inhabitants of the valley in case of military danger.
Residential, the city occupied an area of 10 hectares and almost has been entirely built up two-storey houses covered skullTsey.
The first stone floor with rock cut cellars were used for economic needs; the second residential -- were wooden or half-timbered, and, as a rule, with balconies.
In the city there were a waterpipe from the Potter's pipes bringing water from springs of the next height for four kilometers; some cult constructions, a necropolis.

The slopes of Eski-Kermen cut caves.
There are 350 of them and they date mostly to the XII-XIII centuries, the Cave served as premises for cattle, handicraft workshops, wine presses grape and reservoirs for grape juice.
The fate of the fortress was a lot of hardship. The first defeat of Eski-Kermen happened in the VIII century.
Finally, the city ceased to exist at the end of the XIII century.
Some scientists attribute this to the suppression of the Khazars in the year 787 the uprising of the conquered population of the South-Western Crimea, but the city and after that until it finally was destroyed and burnt in 1299 during the predatory RAID of the Golden Horde Temnik Nogay

Time was drawing to 17 00 and we decided to head back to the bikes, though not spared, and half of cave city.
The bikes were in one piece. Here we have turned the dispute or to sleep. Initially considered options for the valley at the foot of the city. But then there's the prevailing point of view of Marat to go further.
A dirt road went past the southern foot of Eski-Kermen and turned into the mountain which bears the name of Chilter-Kai.
Mountain densely overgrown with forest.
Track was fairly rocky, but not too steep. You slowly go upwards not too straining and not even sweat this time do not have time to flow from his forehead in the pants.

This forest was an incredible amount of mushrooms. You could see them even without getting off the bike. Although oblique mow. Mostly mushrooms, volnushki and Dubovik. Others did not see.

Finally, when the batteries inside finally we sat down in a clearing ahead, a glimmer of sunlight pass.
But imagine our feelings when we in mute admiration stopped in front of another view from the height of bird flight. Instead the pass was a cliff-almost vertical. We stood at a height of 484 meters.

Then, a large village Ternovka.
Time to go any where any more.
And we decided to spend the night in a clearing at the cliff.
The sky was dark clouds and thunder was getting closer.
Oteha from the road in the direction along the ridge and found an acceptable place in the bushes and quickly put up the tent.
Until November, I met passing by hikers from Peter they said that stood not far from here near the spring.
Rinat and Marat immediately lit up there to drive on the Vela without backpacks to fetch water and to wash.
I must say that all the time they wanted to bathe. This idea seems to them all the time pressed. First they searched the baths in the major cities. But it soon became clear that the baths in the Crimea in the afternoon with fire not to find.
Though I was sweating , but apparently much less than they easily endured days without bathing.
And Marat said that his body always covered with fat dripping from the inside and this fat requires bathing:)

As a result, I left to have our stove and dinner is done, and the guys jumping on polechova bikes went to look for a spring.
Almost half an hour when it became dark, they came back without water and unwashed.
A spring not found.
In addition, Rinat ran fell on a stone and badly bruised his right side (but then he confessed).
Moreover in the fall he lost the coffer with the map and some things mounted on the handlebars of the bike and didn't notice it. But it praju we found only the next day.

In the meantime, had a wash, drop by drop dripping from the remnants of our bottle of water.
Dinner in the dark. Drank a bottle of dry wine factory Inkerman , bought in Bakhchisarai.
The wine called Bastardo (not to be confused with the Massandra fortified).
It was a dry red. When I SIP, the surprise felt atshaft garmonichnyi very rich taste.
It was no worse than the French Bordeaux wines we have sold 500 p per bottle.
What a pity that in Russia do not bring.
In the best case you can find Massandra wines, and in far not the full range.

Downstairs lights flickered Ternovka.
Above - the milky way.
To sit on the edge of the cliff and enjoy the thick spicy air of the mountains of Bakhchisarai.
A drop to taste the Crimean night, and pour it in each conductor.
To capture a memory each minute spent in such amazing places.

But... Sleep is what we had then all the time you need:)))