Journey to Grenlandia

And this perch I selflessly loved all my life!?

Day 18 (11.09.2004)

Passed: 36.4 km
Just path: 4h 17min
Pedal: 2H 15 min
CP.speed: 15.8 km/h
Air temperature: 18C

Noah. Binomial: the reproduction-love - every creature on the pair,
But over the Crimea brother Moskal, brother-crest almost beat myself Hari,
And yet, in Sudak prowl again and they hiss Tatars.
This complex trinomial my not accessible to the mind,
I drink vodka under the fat and eat pilaf and dolma.

Sergio Boychenko



Got up in the morning sleepy and broken. Four healthy men in one small tent - it's certainly not the faint of heart.
Hastily cooked Breakfast.
Chatted some more with Sasha, said goodbye, took pictures in front of the road and drove off.
We waited for my favorite previously, the city of Crimea - Sudak.
The city where I know every street.
Who has always loved as his second home.

Before the Marine took another pass 300 meters.
The driving was difficult - almost on the teeth.
Here we finally reached the Sea.
The serpentine road from the mountains down to the coast and several kilometers along the shore is smooth road.
Date of origin of Capshare(now Marine) (gr. - "capso choir", i.e., "scorched earth", "burnt place", "burned place") is not precisely determined
Casinocityonline settlement was located on the slope of mount Kamatra, located in a deep valley.
The first written sources mentioning Capsici, belong to the period of rule of the Genoese.
In the second half of the XIII century is the restoration of the Byzantine Empire, which actively promoted Genoa, resulted in the fortification on the shores of the Black sea Genoese, fierce rivals of the Byzantine Empire.
In the second half of the XIV century, the Genoese established themselves on the Crimean the coast, and contained a mighty fleet, had the strongest fortifications and possessed by them but the capture of Constantinople by the Turks.

Still in these places, were the ruins of the Genoese buildings.
So, on Cape Agira five kilometers from the village, are the ruins of fortifications Choban-Kule ("the Shepherd's tower").

November 2, 1941 Nazi troops occupied Capsici.
14 APR 1944 - Nemecko village liberated from the Nazi invaders.
May 18, 1944 - by order of Stalin made the deportation of the Crimean Tatars, Greeks, Armenians.
August 21, 1945, by the decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the village Capsici renamed the village "the Sea."

The village looks larger than all the previous ones on this stretch of road. And more fitted.
Mountains, grapes, pebble beaches is a wonderful resort place.

However, in recent years, the Sea gets too hot as in many other places of the Crimea.
But this part of it especially.

The problem of inter-ethnic relations here, as in all the Eastern Crimea is very acute.
Since the mid-90s, when the Crimean Tatars began returning to Crimea, the peace of the local residents can only dream of.

Here come the Tatars and said that this is their land.
First, on the outskirts of the village destroyed the Orthodox Worship the cross.
He allegedly insulted the feelings of Muslims.
The famous Crimean "krestopoval" began in the Sea. Then in the area were set on fire Church.

...Of the Crimean Tatars on the blessed Peninsula of 12%, but compared to Russians they are United and organized, they have a high reproductive capacity, they have a goal to create an independent Islamic Republic of the Crimean Tatars..
It is felt that in the Crimea no Russian "critical mass" , and the Ukrainian authorities in their hatred of the "Muscovites" are willing to concede the Crimea Tatars, if only to annoy Russia.

In 2003, in Morskoye village, Sudak district was the confrontation between the Majlis and Cossack troops.
Squatting of land all over the Crimea have become a common practice .
Capture technology worked - immediately there were tents, sheds, trailers, organized round-the-clock armed patrols of the Tatar.
We saw this ourselves later in a Quiet Bay near Koktebel.

The conflict arose over territory that belongs to Russian investors.
Crimean authorities announced that the houses built on this land will be demolished.
But the Crimean Tatars refuse to dismantle the squatter until then, until the authorities banned the local Cossack community.

Armed patrols on the streets of the small resort village.
In the Marine concentrated forces of special police units and internal troops.
Guarded by the village Council and the local communication node. In the village declared a state of emergency.
Although officially a curfew no one is introduced, people without much need on street did not leave.

All very difficult and confusing. Each side has its own truth.
And the authorities do nothing to peacefully coexist all the peoples on the Peninsula.
The Crimean Tatars have nothing to lose, they are more organized and brazen, and therefore ,feeling impunity, take the best.

In the pike perch about the same.

Sketch from nature – "armoured personnel carriers in front of an ancient Genoese fortress.
Battlements of the medieval walls and heavy machine guns, bared his teeth from the towers of armored vehicles.
The shields and helmets of the special forces. Screams, shots, hate, broken glass underfoot... It's perch, a beautiful resort town in the foothills of southern coast of Crimea.
Extraordinarily beautiful land. Very close to the fantastic cliffs of the village and the hills of Cimmeria voloshinskii.
Further along the coast — the Royal Bay of the New world. It's pike, where the whole winter 2003-2004 to shed blood and kill people.

In January — several mass fights between Tatars and Slavic population.
Three of the victims. The largest carnage Sudak in the village of Fun.
To death hammered by local residents.
Militia fighters of special division "Berkut" machine-gun fire in the air to stop a crowd of several hundred angry people.

Crimean Tatars put their sheds(temporary houses) in the center of Sudak, on the territory of the military sanatorium!
Staked out areas right in the sanatorium Park. Well, that has not happened.

Extraordinary session of the city Council was going to make a decision on the demolition of illegally erected buildings Tatar.
But the militias Majlis stormed the city police.
About two hundred youths shouting "Allahu Akbar!" rushed to the attack. Broken doors and grilles, smashed Windows, tore of the external video surveillance.
One group made their way to the Armory. The other climbed to the infirmary, where he was a former champion in Greco-Roman wrestling, now one of the fiercest fighters of the Majlis.
He mutilated man in the village of Sun Valley.
Now the attackers demanded the release of fellow tribesman.
And only stopped when the police opened fire. But it is not gone, stood, surrounded the building.
As long as not managed to have the arrested released.

Soon the pike was recalled to the frontline.
Armored personnel carriers blocked access to the city administration and the police.
The streets of Chagall ranks of the police special forces in full combat gear, unloaded cars of internal troops.
Residents barricaded themselves in their homes.

In the morning a few Tatar columns of a thousand people each entered the city.
Stumbling on machine-gun barrels, with green bandages on his forehead walked past the Council to the monument to deportees. Arranged there meeting .
Naturally, the city Council session was not held.
Allegedly so as not to provoke extremists.
And the troops of the Majlis left the winners. All occupied land remained inmi.

Here is a picture of my favorite resort town of Sudak.
During the holiday season fades and winter begins to boil again.

Now in the Crimea – dominated by Darwin!
When Darwin wins the brutally-zoologically strongest.
When they fight for territory, for mates, for life – not until the ceremony, then have to fight to the death, and you are ready depressionbrisbane Russian confrontation?
Or there are still options for a peaceful outcome taking into account the interests of all peoples inhabiting Crimea?

The Ukrainian leadership has clearly forsaken the guidance of legal order in the autonomy.
No person which would have allowed this issue.
And the consciousness of ordinary people in far stretches.
Divided simply into friends and foes.
They are not about geopolitics.
One needs to protect their own.
Others get it at any price.
And this is a war.

It's so sad.
If you look back centuries it can be seen that the history writes on this God-blessed Peninsula unimaginable spiral.
Crimea is continuously passed from the hands of one ethnic group to another.
The Greeks, Romans, Ottomans, Russians, and now the Tartars. Did we ever in our lifetime see another great migration of peoples.
The winner is the one who has more will, cruelty and determination.

If you can not find a common king Solomon, who snatch people out of the relationship of the middle ages.
After all, the 21st century already!
At least something should change in the human essence!

Here I briefly tried to tell about who are the Crimean Tatars, whence and where they are going

Mosca defeated after the next pass.
With a height of 250 meters has opened to us a panorama of the valley of the river Kutlak.
Then, a large village of Vesele.
In 2000 -2001 year by the sea five kilometres from it is a festival of unconventional youth music Kazantip.
After two years of violence and mayhem come up across the hill here people, the local authorities prayed. Teenagers are like locusts swept all in its path.
Particularly affected vineyards Veselovsky vinsovhoz.
In fact the crop was eaten on the vine. And Kazantip removed.

To Perch lifts were gone. The route went all the way down. It was a mere celebration weary feet.

SUDAK (in the middle ages, Sugdeya, Surozh, Soldaya) is located on the southeastern coast of the Crimea, on the Black sea, 100 km from Simferopol.
Founded in the year 212 BC

From VI century sugdea falls under Byzantine rule. Together with the Greeks, the Byzantines here comes Christianity, there are Christian churches and monasteries.

In the XIII century the town was again captured by the Tatar-Mongols, the whole Crimea becomes ulus of the Golden Horde.

The Tatars were charged with tribute, and from time to time, made predatory raids, but technically (and actually) the city from the beginning of the XIII century was ruled by the Venetian Republic.

The Venetians ruled the town a century and a half, and it was the heyday of Perch-Soldayya, time fame and fortune - despite the devastating raids of nomads.
Soldaya is booming - and it does not suit Genoa, vying with Venice for commercial supremacy on the Black sea.

In 1365 the Genoese suddenly attacked Soldau, took the city by storm and captured 18 villages in the district.
Having mastered the city, the Genoese are taking decisive steps to strengthen its defense capability.
They add its defensive structures, build new, and create in the end a well-fortified fortress, preserved to our days.
When the Genoese Soldaya largely loses its value for the center of the black sea trade, the Genoese move it in Kaffa (Feodosiya), its main foothold on the black sea coast.

In 1475 the Turkish troops of the aggressive Empire of the Ottomans with the support of the Crimean Tatars besieged Soldau.
But the forces were too unequal, and, when the city ran out of food, the Turks broke into the city.
The remnants of the defenders, headed by the Consul of Christoforo di Nigrotibialis is the city's main temple.
The naive hope for an ancient custom -- the Invaders burned them alive along with the temple.

The Turks ruled in Sudak for nearly 300 years.
It was a period of decline.
Zander is losing its greatness, its former importance, becoming just one of the points of Turkish fortifications in the Crimea.
The city is gradually destroyed, removed Christian churches, changing the composition of the residents. By the end of Turkish rule, the perch is a little different from the ordinary Muslim populations.

As a result of Russian-Turkish war of 1768-1774, victorious for Russia, the entire Crimean Peninsula is part of the Russian Empire.
Zander becomes one of the "towns" of Feodosia district of the Tauride region.
And one of the centers of winemaking in the Crimea.

With the end of the XIX century Sudak was chosen by educated middle-class people and students of major cities of the Empire.
And, of course, a huge number of interesting people from different countries come here for the archaeological excavations, geological and other former petitii, and also to draw, write poems, make movies.
It is this public laid the foundations of Russian naturist, so Nude beaches are already mastered by many generations.

We stopped in the pike perch from the bus station.
I wanted to show the guys around here is beautiful and planned to relax in the city for 2-3 days.
Naturally, we went on the main city street - Lenin street.
I wanted to stop at the same hostess which lived in the past.

But as it turned out, due to the large influx of tourists this year all the rooms she had occupied.
Along the street Biryuzova usually rented many homes. And we moved it to the side of the military sanatorium to the sea.
Whether before there was the rain, or a burst sewageUW but all along the street were flowing the water stream.
We drove slowly looking around in search of proposals on the delivery of housing.
Rinat a little behind.
Meet us at great speed rushed the smashed penny, raising clouds of spray.
We Marat as it dodged, and Rinat splashed in full.
Ulitsa Biryuzova probably never before in its history never heard such a multi-level swearing.
Was referred to all the relatives of the driver to the tenth generation,which turned out to be the local evil Tatar.
He took the trouble to come back, jumped out of the car and started to sort things out with our friend.
We had to turn and help him. Tartar anger a little out of your pants do not pop up.
We explained to him that he is guilty, because the bad drives his jalopy and fucked international veloekspeditsii.
Under the pressure of superior enemy forces hapless Naci hastily withdrew, spewing words clearly displeasing to Allah.

Soon we found an acceptable basement with the TV just for$ 4 with the snout.
Chained in the yard are great, washed very happy with it, life has walked on the perch.

Despite the mid-September people in Sudak was like in August in past years.
The beach is heaving with people.
It was rather cold - about +20 and blew icy breeze, but the people stoically lay on the beach.
After all uplocheno!

During the year the pike if changed, only for the worse. More people - more dirt and debris.
The unique flair of cosiness and domesticity that has always attracted me here, somewhere vanished.
We walked all along the waterfront. Stood on the pier.
The guys certainly liked her.

And I felt nothing. Nothing that used to make beat my heart knowing that I am in such a great location.
The city as a city.
We've seen better places in the Crimea.
That is because the metamorphosis:(

Wanted to sit in a restaurant Vecherum. But something from Hiking so we pulled into a dream that we unanimously fell asleep.
However Marat to sleep trying to watch the antics of the wife of Petrosyan on TV and even laughed gutturally sometimes, until I gave him a kick up the backside.