Journey to Grenlandia

Around machines, machines, machines...

Day 22 (15.09.2004)

Passed: 7 km
Total of the journey: 1H 05 min.
Pedal: 15 min
CP.speed: 11 km/h
Air temperature: 25C



Eastern Crimea is a unique place . An exceptional variety of terrain, ecological purity , amazing beauty of the landscapes of Kara-Dag and its surroundings, beautiful beaches and clean water.
To leave from our Parking lot did not want. We were so relaxed.
But time was running out and, going to compromise, we were basking in the sun before lunch.
And then, reluctantly meeting, dragged on for pobrit, barely moving, exhausted by long inaction legs.

With some difficulty rounding the Cape, dragging heavy two-wheeled our Asses mules through the huge coastal boulders, we found ourselves in a nearby Bay.
Here apparently begins the realm of naturism. We found ourselves, so to speak, in his dressing room.

The Bay was small and very cozy.
Fine sand, shallow shore and a lone tree near a small cliff. And of course a tent and a few naked tourists on the beach.
Three women and a man. The first test for the excitable psyche of Rinat.
The Bay length on the strength of dozens of five meters on the perimeter, he came half an hour slowly taking the bike on the sand.
His head was spinning like the navigation radar.

Finally we were reunited and on well-Packed dirt road got to the top of a small hill where our eyes opened already videno us from a distance was an amazing sight - a fabulous little town on the shore.
The white walls of the houses, turret clock, of arch.
As if we were transported suddenly into works of Alexander grin. Or in the Spanish Andalusia.
The contrast with the modern reality of the Crimea was especially Ulisional.
The city was empty.
No wiggling or activities from the hilltop it was not observed.
We hesitated a few minutes.
Other way than through this Mirage in reality was not. Buildings, nowhere occurred in this sparsely populated area, had blocked our way along the shore. Finally I decided to go for exploration.
After descending the hill, I drove the streets of the Ghost town. Close, it finally became clear that it was just a giant scenery, props.

A dog barked and I finally saw people.
Bearded half-naked man and woman had tea on the terrace. It turned to the guard.
He watched to ragrabili and not demolish the equipment owned by the film Studio Mosfilm.
Here in 2005, will star joint Russian-French-German film-mystery "Live fish" with a budget of $ 7 million.
The film will be nebezyzvestnaya hudoynazarov, known for the film "Kosh BA Kosh", "Luna Papa" and "Chic".
For 11 years he lives in Berlin.
Shoots his films with the money of German and French producers.
For his movie with a clearly recognizable handwriting hudoynazarova called "Russian Kusturica".

The essence of the future of film in the history of one European girls involved in the smuggling of exotic birds and insects.
A new film genre - the tragicomedy.
This is a story about the clash of East and West, that the interference of one culture can be disastrous for another.
I could not help thinking that maybe it will be very important for the Crimea and the location was not chosen randomly.
I hope that great art brings people together, or at least make you think those who will see him.

One of the main producers will perform Claudie Ozar, known for his part in the creation of such acclaimed French films as "Amelie" and "Delicatessen".
One of the main male roles in the movie hudoynazarova will be performed by Oleg Yankovsky, GLaunuu female role - a famous French actress Ludivine Sagnier.
The film will play well as English actress Eva green, German Moritz Bleibtreu and like Konstantin Khabensky.

The guard allowed us to drive through the scenery.
However we were able to do it without his permission.
So it probably happened, let's go ahead of me Rinat.
He represented we have the power and uncompromising. Marat - thoroughness and determination.
And I ,apparently, caution and diplomacy:)
We complement each other, the end of the campaign turning into a three-headed Hydra, to overcome which it is possible only chopping off heads one by one.

Subsequently, all pilfered and looted. And the film never took off(
Initially it all looked so

But Rinat had to prove themselves and then photographing artificial streets.
Guard bird hoisted from the terrace, yelling something about private property and the ban on shooting.
Rinat boa clutched in response .
Skirmish had to extinguish until it grew into something more.
However as a result we became the owners of several exclusive types of the still unfinished film. I don't think someone is hurt. Watch and fantasize.
Because soon there will be wandering "the same Munhausen" embracing the charming French. And the piercing innocence of amélie descends to the shore of the Crimean Peninsula.

Half an hour later, popyhtev a little walk (it was impossible to go), we entered the territory known all over Crimea Fox Bay.
Agrona long Cove of fine sand. Probably the best beach I have ever seen in the Crimea.
And a Paradise for nudists.
Found a man there in shorts as difficult as to find a free place in Ufa the bus at 8 am.
However get used to these impressive paintings - naked women's bodies (men understand we are not particularly shocked) prettyno fast heart returns to its normal rhythm, and his eyes and neck no longer hurt from the strain.

Naturism in the Crimea was never a revolutionary or an extremist.
He was not perceived as the destruction of stereotypes or undermine the moral foundations.
Even Nicholas II bathed there in the Nude, setting an example to ordinary people.
Fox Bay is called the Mecca of naturist Crimea.
Thanks to its naked inhabitants and it is famous in the entire former Soviet Union.

In the Bay there are a whole settlement.
Lives there all summer very interesting and diverse people, with their laws and regulations.
Surprisingly, the brawlers and hooligans no, they are peace-loving.
The belief that the human body is beautiful, belongs to people who never rested in the Fox Bay.
The variety of bodily defects, the local beach can easily compete with the Kunstkamera, with its alcoholized in banks freaks.
The impression was that here are gathered the most ugly people from all over the country obese, dystrophic, thin-legged, potbellied, cellulite...
However, none of them not at all complex about it.
Terrible unkempt women romp around in dirty tents.
Close to whining children. Peasants, brandishing their advantages lazily strolling around.

It is difficult to understand what attracts people to come and live here all summer naked in polonyste and unsanitary conditions.
While we were there - we were approached several times and asked a lot of money or at least water to drink.
Nudists reminded me a lot of the Indians we seen in the district of Balaklava.
The same detachment from life, minimalism in food and needs.

However, in addition to diehard nudists then perhaps there are those who just stopped by not a day to pay tribute to fashion.
Since he met and pretty women.
Another track is probably what brings people to such places - and sexual concerns.
For others to see and be seen.
Edata a cross between voyeurism with exhibitionism.
Candid public pahasta here, of course not, but we saw a man and a woman engaged in foreplay, lying by the sea, and not paying anyone any attention.

Rinat sovershenno there stunned.
Walked like crazy. It reminded me of the mouse from a disney cartoon in which the word "Cheese" is rolled eyes and shaking paws.
Well we went to the beach in the evening and a lot of people have already left. And in General it was mid-September and there was not so crowded as in summer.

Decided to spend the night on the beach.
The place was of course hectic but going on what you want. Too good sea there was.
And we have until sunset enjoyed swimming.
Naturally naked. It is necessary to meet the situation:) but then on the shore dressed.

Burner our's backed up again - damn the Crimean gasoline. That wine that gasoline - bodyazhat hell!
And Rinat twilight had to disassemble and clean the nozzle.
But without a hot dinner, we left thanks to his efforts.
He was so adept at repairing for many times, which probably could have in the dark to cope.
The day before bought the second bottle from the cellars of Arhaderese - Sun Valley warmed us up before bedtime in his soft, honeyed warmth.

Were setting up our tent in the dark, so as not to attract attention.
We found a sign which said that the Parking there is paid.
And to pay we were not going under any sauce.
The sun was going down around the ridges of Karadag, zamyslivaet broken line scribe marking the horizon.
Rinat pledged to get up at sunrise to capture this beauty.
And I, in turn, solemnly promised him that he is under any pretext not wriggle from his promise, despite the sweet morning sleep and set the alarm in my phone at 5 o'clock in the morning.

Of course I woke up.
And of course heard in the address of the OTBErnie curse, not wanting to get photographer.
And the threat to go shooting raised Rinat from a warm sleeping bag.
He could not afford to have glory and honor for the masterpieces be owned by someone else.

The result is quite good.
Sunrise autumn sun in Fox Bay were recorded on a cf memory card Nikon stroboscopic sequence.
I subsequently only have to choose the best.

Rinat again lay down in the tent and after a minute, his thunderous snoring mingled with the snore of Marat ,the chirping of cicadas and the lapping of the waves.
And I already couldn't sleep.
I was sitting at the entrance and through the wide-open canopy of enjoyed the original beauty of these places.

Involuntarily recalled other stories of our friend biologist Sasha. After all, his Alma mater, Karadagsky biological station was very close.

The fauna of the Black sea is not too varied.
In the last 18-20 thousand years the Black sea has existed almost bland new euxinian lake-sea, only 6-8 thousand years ago, it connected with the Mediterranean sea through the Bosphorus — as a result of a powerful earthquake.
What happened 6 thousand years ago, was a disaster.
The isthmus between the present shores of the Bosphorus was a kind of dam, because the water level in Novopushkinskom sea was below the level of the Mediterranean sea; after the breaking of this dam the waters of the sea flooded into the Black sea by a giant waterfall.

And here is the Bosporus broke, the giant wave-the tsunami hit the coast and flooded all the lowlands. The water had gone human settlements, pastures with herds disappeared entire Nations.
Just like the recent tragedy in Asia, when the tsunami swept over the coasts of India,Thailand and Indonesia.

Some archaeologists draw our attention to the fact that the picture of the breakthrough of the Bosphorus, restored according to Geology and archaeology, resembles the one described in the old Testament Deluge.
Approximately soupadut well as scientific and biblical Dating of these events; mount Ararat, where, according to legend, was saved Noah in the ark, located near the shores of the Black sea.

Being filled with the waters of middle-earth , the lake became a sea and posologia.

In the surface 100-m layer of the Black sea, focuses almost all his life.
Deeper, to depths of over 2 kilometers, there are only a few species of bacteria, no animals, no plants there, because water has no oxygen.
These bacteria living in the water column and on the bottom, decomposing the remains falling from the surface (there is even such term — "a putrid rain"), emit hydrogen sulfide.
Hydrogen sulfide is a poison for animals and plants — it paralyzes cellular respiration in the mitochondria(that's a lovely sentiment, Yes?:)

It turns out that 90% of the Black sea twice unsuitable for life of most organisms — from 150 meters depth to the bottom no need for breathing oxygen, and all the water poisoned by hydrogen sulfide.
The black sea is the only world where such a huge mass of water saturated with this substance.
The reason is that, in a relatively small area, the Black sea is of great depth; underwater slopes of the steep banks — as a result of water exchange between deep and surface waters lack oxygen does not penetrate deep into the sea. In other words, the Black sea is poorly mixed.

They say that the name the sea got because of the color of salts of hydrogen sulfide - sulfide, which hydrogen sulfide is weak acid, reacts with metals.
Therefore, the shells in the hydrogen sulfide blacken, blackens, and any metal object.
There is another hypothesis that the name "Black" reflects the impression of a Mediterranean travelers on the sea during a winter storm when the water darkens.

Closed over millions of years, and recently opened, but still semi-enclosed ecosystem of the Black sea, is still far from equilibrium and is very sensitivebut to external influences.

Therefore, changes in the biological structure of the Black sea continue to this day — constantly, literally before our eyes, gives new species, disappear before.
In the last 2 centuries many of introduction of exotic organisms into the Black sea occurred mainly with the help of a man — accidentally, and deliberately.

Here is an example of purposeful settlement (or as scientists say - introductions).
Earlier in the Black sea lived as many as 3 species of mullet, but because of fishing and pollution, their numbers have been dramatically reduced. To improve the situation, from the sea of Japan was brought pelengas.
It is also a mullet, but more taxing. He is well acclimatised, bred and has now become a target species for fishermen. The population of the black sea mullet in recent years is also gradually recovering.

The most striking examples of accidental colonization of alien species, which ended with the change in the whole order of life in the Black sea — a history of invading gastropod Rapana . About these mollusks have told us a few days ago a biologist Sasha.

The Saga of the shells, who eat and whom to eat

The most common molluscs in the Black sea is, of course, clams, brine, oysters and scallops.
They are all edible.
Oysters can live up to 30 years. They are very tenacious: I can do without the sea more than two weeks. Maybe that's why and eat them alive.

Mussels were once plastered all coastal rocks and port berths.
Mussels live 7-10 years and the taste is not as refined as oysters.
Them before the food necessary to cook or fry.
The salinity of black sea water in one and a half times less than the one in which mussels are grown specifically for sale. Therefore, the black sea mussel, grown in a natural environment is a delicacy, since the rigidity of the meat of the mollusk depends on the degree of salinity. Mussels — these WEvie filters. They handle a huge amount of sea water. At the same time in their bodies accumulates all the water contained.
Therefore, to eat mussels caught in the port or in close proximity to wastewater treatment plants is not recommended. And in the Crimean restaurants mainly serving of mussels.
The locals, not bothering too catch shellfish near the cities and take to the restaurants for a fee.
So poisoned seafood in the Crimea - a piece of cake.

Scallops are interesting too.
This clam can move as a projectile. With the power of the scallop sash slams her shell, and a jet of water, moving it a foot or two forward. Scallops have many eyes. About a hundred of them.
Why would he need them — is unclear. This clam is blind. If the eyes are removed, then in its place will grow a new one.

From the Far East along with the ships in 1947 in the Black sea arrived mollusk Rapana.
Rapana is also edible. One can cook a delicious soup, and the meat it resembles the sturgeon.
Brine — predators, and the object of their hunt serve mussels and oysters.

Young Rapana bore through the shell of oysters or mussels and drink its contents, and adult brine secrete a poisonous mucus, which paralyzes the muscles of the bivalve, and forced him to open the sash.
This ferocious predator from the Pacific ocean ate all the oysters and scallops in the Black sea, now destroys other bivalves, i.e., the emergence of new species has caused the extinction of several others.
But Rapana bring benefits to those that eat the sinking dead fish, acting as a nurse.

In the area of Karadag shellfish very much - they are mined by all and Sundry. The whole beach covered in broken shells. Meat out right on the shore and also probably carry in restaurants.
And tourists buy beautiful varnished the shells, carry them home and put on the TV. To long cold winters occasionally prickto ladyatsya ear to her hole and allegedly "listening to the sea."
In fact, just in a twisted maze of caverns clam noisy environment, the echo Bouncing off the walls.
But is it so important!
Main - memory and persisted reminder that you must return to the Crimea!
To return again to get me drunk life-giving power of the little Peninsula.
At least again.....