Journey to Grenlandia

We cure the Black doctor

Day 21 (14.09.2004)


The night was calm. The sea is calm. Past our tents one place.
Got up when the sun began to bake us inside.
Bathed, breakfasted indispensable oatmeal, a resource which is already coming to an end.
Generally oatmeal is an amazing mess.
I believe that it should be mandatory in the diet of travelers.
After all, different climate, different food and stress is not conducive to good digestion.
And the normal cycle of life is a necessary condition for good health and therefore pedaling.
Oatmeal solves all of these problems.
15 minutes later after eating our friendly company as the team dispersed to secluded places to "explore the area".

In General we took a sufficient amount of cereals in packets - buckwheat,oatmeal and rice.
Based on 15 days continuous absorption.
But since we have diversified our menu soups, some cereals had up to the end of the campaign.

After Breakfast, Marat Rinat again lay down to sleep, bed, foam on the sand.
My body demanded movement. Well I can not just lying.
I'm bruised from doing nothing. So I took the Nikon Rinat and climbed the nearest hill.
On the way took a few photos of our remote camps.

From the top of a hill and opened up a view of the next Bay is also very cozy.
A little further could see some strange white houses is completely different from the Crimean.
And on the horizon, the foothills of Karadag.
I spent about half an hour, admiring the austere beauty of the treeless surroundings.
Came back the other way and came upon the vineyards.
It is from these gorgeous berries did the famous wines of Sunny valley.
We had yet to taste.

The camp woke the guys and we Marat light went to the village for the productsI.
Beautiful deserted asphalt road. Light bike with no Luggage. A complete delight!
The sea and the village shares a small stretch of steppe, part of the reserve Megan.
This is a relatively small field famous among the local hunters.
In the fall here hunting quail and trophies to discuss the next season's Sun Valley large village.

Much has changed for the last time.
Returning Crimean Tatars change its appearance. Now rises the minaret on the hill,it was not before.
The mount Altigen seen much rugged top of Echki-Dag.
Look do not interfere, and the sea is visible from almost anywhere in the village. This contributes to the relief, which gradually rises from the sea to the hills, covering the town from the rear.
Bald hills - soft contours, as if the real Crimean rocks threw the yellow fabric of withered grass and softly draped.
Soft mountains to the sea torn cliffs.
Incredibly beautiful and quiet place. Here the soul just sings!

Scored food and of course I drove to the store from vinsovhoz.
Prices compared to last year on the famous wine has not changed.
Yes, and where else to change - and so is just outrageous.
"The black doctor" 0.7 - 140 UAH ( ~ 27$ )
"The black doctor" 0.5 - 90 UAH (~ 17$)
Sun valley 0.5 - 55 UAH (~ 10,5 $)
For comparison, in 1995, "the Black doctor" 0.7 cost 6$ , and in 1998 - 14$ (it was last year when I brought home a gift of this wine)
Then the hand does not rise.
The wine is certainly very good, no doubt, but the price....

There are lots of Massandra wines excellent in taste and affordable.

In General, the relationship is now two vinkovatov can not be called friendly.
Rather, it is a zealous rivalry.
Earlier, the state farm Sun valley has been a division of Massandra.
And until 1967 was produced the Ruby from the Crimean grapes what Kara.
And say that special demand did not use.
The Minister of food industry of the USSR, V. P. Zotov loved this wine and suggested translations into Russian language the name of the class what the punishment ("what" –the doctor, "Kara" - black ) and make a new label.
This helped the artist N. Martynov.
Overnight on creative inspiration (he asked for two bottles of Madeira!) was created the original labels, which has created a well-deserved popularity guilt.

Then for some reason state farm Sun Valley separated from Massandra.
This Massandrovsky when questions rightly answered, "the Black Doctor Massandra no longer available".
Hence the rumors (especially they have been in the mid 90s), if Dr. Black is not available at all, as Crimean wine in the middle of consciousness associated solely with the Muscat.

The history of winemaking in these areas is inextricably linked again with the previously mentioned Prince Golitsyn.

Sun Valley is a unique place.
Lost in blue gave a high, scorched by the sun the silhouettes of the mountains.
They surround the valley on all sides; Eltigen, Parsuk was Manjil hide it from prying eyes.
Over all quiet "corner of" lonely and ruthlessly fries incandescent sun.
That's probably why this place was called Sun Valley.
In their natural conditions, it is different even from the neighboring, all known zones of the Crimean winemaking.
There are a lot of heat and sun more than 300 days a year and little rainfall is between 200-250 mm, and the soil poor and rocky.
This temperature and water regime typical of semi-desert, can we grow grapes at different ripening, including late and very late.
Intense berries accumulate sugar, which is manifested in the fullness and richness of taste and aroma of the wines, as contained in the soil is flint, which French growers call "gun stone" is supposed to beI sure sign to create a fine and noble wines.

Wine is a product of the region or "terroir."
Under the terroir means the combination of soil and climatic characteristics, so that the wine receives its own unique characteristics. The vine of the same varieties planted in different areas, gives a completely different wines, for a very many natural factors affect the final result.
This amount of solar heat, and altitude above sea level, and the exposition of the vineyards and the soil composition and the amount of moisture... and of course the human factor — the work invested by the people.
Sun Valley has the rarest collection of grape varieties, which in addition to European include ancient indigenous varieties.
Among the latter is the pride of local growers — what Kara, Cevat Kara, kefesija, cook pandas, Sary pandas, Soldaia, Koz white and others.

Immediately after the victory in the Russo-Turkish war and the annexation of the Peninsula Russia has shown interest in the development of viticulture in the Crimea.
In 1784 on the orders of Prince Potemkin from Hungary were brought seedlings of Tokaj varieties, and this required special permission of the king, as to take out the Tokay vines from the country was strictly forbidden.
The vineyards are broken, including in the kozsky valley (formerly Sun Valley).

In 1802 Alexander I instructed the Minister of internal Affairs, count Kochubey to the opening of the first school of winemaking and viticulture.
Choose a place for its arrangement it was entrusted to academician with the international name of Pallas.
So, in 1804, in the tract Aciklar was organized Sudak school, which prepares professionals in viticulture, winemaking and cooperage business.
For schools were allotted land at 30 acres in Sudak and the Koz (Solar) valleys.

And only after almost a quarter of a century, in 1828, on the South Bank opens second school in the tract "Magarach".

Since 1888 year 1899 near the villages Tokluk (Bogatovka), thanks to the boundless, tireless energy of the enthusiast of Russian winemaking and viticulture of the Prince L. S. Golitsyn, has created a unique wine cellars "duration", which is the property of the son of the last Chancellor of Russia, A. M Gorchakov.
A desolate and deserted place with gentle hills for centuries, cut through the rain and winds, was called the "DURATION", in translation from the Tatar — "back ravine". "I want a worker, laborer, clerk drank good wine! Our South created for viticulture!" — never tired of repeating the Prince.
Vintage cellars for the production and aging of dessert and strong wines became a prototype of the subsequent factories based by L. S. Golitsyn.

The well-known firm "Massandra" they have built based on the experience of vinpodvaly "duration".

Not to say that to Golitsyn was not here viticulture - the Tatars, the Armenians, the Greeks from time immemorial cultivated wine tree, made homemade wine.
Each family had their own vineyards, the cellars.
But everyone made wine for myself, and it was not well known outside of Crimea.

Indigenous (local varieties) of grapes grows in the Crimea (and in particular on the territory of present Solar Valley), and till the arrival of the Greeks.
The Greeks were brought to the Peninsula grape varieties.
And the current "natives" Sun Valley - the descendants of old local varieties and imported Greek. Sometimes the result of pollination between them, were born new varieties.

At the time, Prince Golitsyn, was not able to achieve high productivity of local vineyards.
But the thing is that the local vine is not enough water.
The rains here are "unproductive" — rare in this arid climate precipitation is powerful streams rush down the slopes without having to even wet the ground, and the hot sun dries it instantly, and to the roots the moisture does not reach.
And the tenants had to work with a shovel, constantly loosen sthe earth and conduct in furrow irrigation. The work is hard, costly and thankless, because the effect of it is minimal.

At the request of L. S. Golitsyn, Prince Gorchakov from St. Petersburg spent funding (giving money) to the establishment of wine estates "duration".
Large capital expenditures in the viticulture and winemaking of the estate "duration" were not given the opportunity to make high profits Gorchakov sent the money for the development of "duration" of 11 years, never seen the estate.
Having visited the estate in October, 1899, finding there "beauty", fell out with Golitsyn, refused his services and gave instructions to the new Manager not to put more Golitsyn's estate.
It's practically determined the collapse of the "duration" for many years: the establishment of new vineyards was not made, the care of existing plantings to a halt.
In 1920 Gorchakov sells the estate and leaves to Italy.

The restoration of the vineyards in the "Arhaderesse" begins in 1936, after the transfer of the farm management Narkomharchopromu USSR with specialization in production and the production of dessert wines.

During the great Patriotic war of viticulture and winemaking in the area "Solar Valley" was launched and destroyed.
When the Nazis came to these places - collection wine poured directly into the sea did not get to the enemy.
For a long time and then surf in these places were blood red, and dogs are walked drunk.
And they say that during the occupation of Crimea by German fascist troops in the basement of the Sun Valley was not destroyed for the sole reason that a senior officer in the area was the hereditary wine maker.

At the beginning of this century vinsovhoz was bought by the Muscovites have invested a millions dollars in the development of the enterprise.
Now it is the head of Revazi of Robinia.
The wineries Sun Valley and Zander work mostly only women — the main contingent of workers. Men cannot withstand for a long - drink too much.

For the first time in Crimea in the vineyards "Sun Valley" applied to the phytomonitoring sensors(sensors in each hive), which allows you to monitor the health of the vines throughout the season.
Israeli firm "AIC" equipped with state farm vineyards drip irrigation, with Italian bottling equipment, bottle purchased Italian, Portuguese cork, French packaging material.
Conducted aggressive advertising campaign.

The result - a threefold price increase.
Vinsovhoz now focused on the wealthy citizens of Russia, Europe and America.
And the "workers and artisans" ,as it was intended Golitsyn, probably won't be able to drink good wine Sun valley.
Well - then return to vodka - a Holy place is never empty.

When the farm is a tasting room.
Now the process put on stream.
Need to make money from tourists. As much as possible. But how many know how to correctly taste the wine.

Now there are only two glasses in which gallop a woman tour guide pours wine and patter subset brief information about them. Will not have time to finish one as it is already coming with the next bottle.
Hurry, hurry! The next group is already waiting.
And wine is now tasted as many as 10 !
Yes, everything is mostly fortified and sweet.
At this rate, all of them will not drink and will not develop properly. That's poured ,nedopil, tourists taste the famous wine of the Solar Valley in a big glass jar, standing in the middle of the table.
By the tenth glass is not up to stories about the history of winemaking.
Thoughts from drinking and from the furious gallop.
Dr. black served in the end, absolutely do not think what is special.> Wine as wine. Its unique astringent full-bodied taste has already beaten the previous "Privates" , "Megalomany" and other new wines of the farm, released in honor of some Bank, in honor of the wife of a banker.

But relies each sample to pour into a separate glass in advance.
They should stand in front of each person on a special wooden tray with grooves for each glass.
With to pour a gun or dispenser, not the trembling hand of the woman guide.
The result is that someone gets more, someone less.
And time! The main time! Then you can not rush!
What about the slogan written on the entrance to the cellars! Can't drink without FEELING!!!!
But okay - that I have so boring a little:)
It was in the past. Maybe now that has changed.

But this time we certainly didn't go anywhere.
Why pay big money for such profanity!
Just bought two bottles - "the Black doctor" and "the Solar valley" and went ashore to Rinat.
God bless them with money.
Expensive Yes. But to be here and not to try these wines, we could not.
We have our own tasting.
Instead of stemware, mugs, instead of the cushion - sand, and is greedy of money of the new owners Arhaderese - free Crimea, its sea, sun and air!

The way I saw a bunch of cultists.
All in white shirts and black trousers. Turned out to be a picnic -celebrating 10 years of presence in Ukraine, some American pharmaceutical company.
Viagra that releases - forgot the name of it.
Gathered its local employees and having fun as they can.
Grilled kebabs, make risotto, drinking wine, but white shirts not removed.

Rinat us shave adulsa.
He wasn't in palubeckaite in the sand, and prowled around the tent.
It is evident, too, have rested well.
It turned out that we forgot to get water.
I gladly volunteered to go again. Only companions took Rinat.
Rinat almost freely expressed himself with the local Tatar grandmother, when we asked for water.
The familiar route was done much faster. Turned for an hour.

Before sunset took water treatment.
The sea was gorgeous.
The bottom is covered with a large ribbed, stones overgrown with algae. And between them was the smallest sand.
The farther we sail from the shore, the more rapanov at the bottom.
Marat Rinat became interested in collecting them. The water was not steamy - degree 19-20. Rinat and when I got to shore, I was shaking like a leaf and was blue and cold as a domestic chicken.
Marat was not much better - and it was only thanks to the higher fat content.
Had to unsolder them the remnants of the vodka.

The case wore on. And we started cooking dinner.
Which kamakeli later for Mila soul, drinking a delicious beverage.

"The black doctor" — prepares from unique grades of grapes: "what Kara", "Cevat Kara", "Kifisia" and others that grow only in Sun Valley.
The wine has a garnet red color, but by transmitted light the glass plays a real ruby (vspomnilos old his name).
In the bouquet of the wine reveals notes of plum, chocolate and subtle hints of vanilla.
Especially the wine is memorable for its spicy techcontact knitting heaven and language.
The secret of wine canine - the binder hidden in the skin of grapes what the car.

The legend about this wine is punctuated with myths.
... That was long ago, somewhere deep in the IX century, when the wealthy ancient city of Surozh was connected by sea to many overseas countries.
In those days, apparently, someone from noble merchants Of Surozh was brought here from the shores of Hellas rare cuttings of the vine what car.
The cuttings were planted on rocky ground at the foot of the Meganom Cape.
They settled down and the wine that is made from the berries of this vine, impressed the people with his miraculous powers...
Wine to heal the wounds received in battles with the enemy, restored the strength of the mother...
"The black doctor", in addition to its unique taste, has healing powers.
Contains vitamins B1, B2, B6, B12, a rare organic acids and biologically active substances.
Glucose and fructose are easily absorbed by the human body and are additional energopodderzhkoj for the heart muscle.
"The black doctor" has a beneficial effect on the condition of blood vessels in atherosclerosis.
According to the ancient belief, since ancient times, this thick red wine is made with the blood loss, exhaustion and loss of strength.
And during the war was used as microbicides instead of green stuff.

The wine is of course delicious, but the combination of price/quality, I would pick the Massandra "red Port Crimea" or "Partyvan red Livadia" (differs slightly milder taste) .
Here excellent wine - we took it several times. Easy to drink and costs only 120 rubles for our money.

And dry red wines out of competition, the products of Inkerman - Crimean Bordeaux.

It was one of the most enjoyable evenings in the Crimea.
A quiet deserted place, the calm warm sea.
Unhurried conversation with each other with a mug of drinks.

Me and the sea. I'm old and getting older much faster
It. Asked and the gods, and friends as I can, -
Let me not bury, and fun strung up on the yardarm.
And yet - for forty years, me and the sea, weakens arm
Flies drown in the depths of condensed milk.