Journey to Grenlandia

Storm passes

Day 17 (10.09.2004)

Traveled: 50 km
Just path: 6h 05 min
Pedal: 3h 20 min
CP.speed: 15 km/h
Air temperature: 14C

Because the apartment was taken on part-time with the proviso that at 9:00 we will not be there, had to get up early.
Outside the window was a grey haze. A drizzling rain.
Quickly ate and finished packing. The boss comes back.
Said goodbye and climbed in stages to the street.
The cold was a dog. 10 degrees if not less.
Wearing sweaters and jackets. Pants to wear were not reasonably believing that the drive will warm up and so. And to go to wet Brokaw enjoy below average.
Feet socks and put plastic bags and secured with rubber bands, prudently taken from me the Ufa.
Now the cold and rain for tion was not terrible.

Went to the bus station. The taxi drivers when they learned that we were going to perch directly fun so laughed.
They say shes a hundred kilometers of serpentine teeth - better hire a car.
What I noticed that mad dog seven versts not a hook and we have energy enough to have them on a trailer to take.

Once pulled away from Alushta, the rain stopped. It became much more fun.
The road is insanely beautiful. On the one hand at the bottom of the sea, on the other beautiful mountains in the distance.
Here are quite sparsely populated stretch of coast.
It is adjacent to Alushta reserve, in which economic activity is conducted.

The reserve includes foothills and plateau Demerdzhi, famous for such magnificent places as the valley of Ghosts, rocks hoy Kaya and Shin-Kaya, waterfall Dzhur-Dzhur.
At the time I was in the so-called Valley of Ghosts.
There are a lot of rocks like giant fingers.
And the wind howls in some of the crevices so that goosebumps run. /> For campfires and tents in the reserve, you must obtain a special permit.


From Alexandrian garden route turns from the sea and climbs to a height of 260 feet near the mountains Karasan.
Here we see the first beauty from the first pass. Became warm.
Go all quite cheerfully. Rinat managed to shoot us a few times.
But then at full speed rushing down along the tract of the Ayan-Dere.
Then up again.
Already at 450 meters!
His legs began to buzz pleasantly. Another mountain pass. Climb half an hour . Descend for 5-10 minutes. Fun!

To 12:00 distance seemed Solnechnogorsk.
The stretch of coast (about 12 km) between Alushta and Solnechnogorsk village malasysian. Along the coast there are several recreation facilities.
The village is small and very homely.
However with the long pebble beach -one of the best on the South coast, not in vain from Simferopol people go on a difficult road here.

Small clean pebbles, a very wide beach, deep clear sea, and, most importantly, at the depth of 3-5 m lots of rocks and caves, there are fish , crabs, brine, mussels .
The road passes very close to the beach but closed on the cypress trees and the beach, probably not felt.
Malorechenskoye vacationers come to swim in Solnechnogorskoye (who does not scrap 500 nescom).

We decided to rest and eat. Bought in the cafe lovely pasties.
Rinat agreed to free the boiling water(the tea we had our own). And we settled on the veranda by the sea.
It was Sunny and it was quite good.
Pasties stone fell to the bottom of our stomachs and a little worn out. At 13:00, prevoznemogaya Nakata infirmity, moved on.

The villages of fishing, Malorechenskoye and Malorechenskoye are from each other so close that the evening begins active movement of tourists and locals along the coast from one town to dnother.
The village Malorechenskoye half a kilometer from Solnechnogorsk.
And the fisherman a little further - five kilometers.
Vacationers wander around the local work — out to catch crabs.
If you stand with a tent in the area, you have to be prepared for the fact that past will constantly go the fishermen with flashlights.
And already five in the morning will pop out for a morning jog pensioners in shorts.

Malorechenskoe is a small green village. Also quite neglected.
The village was remembered for a very pleasant Park with plane trees and plum trees, which is located between the market and the track.
And, oddly enough, beautiful hedges, private houses, braided, somehow, a vine with large blue and pink flowers.

By the end of next year, near Alushta, in the village Malorechenskoye plan to build a unique Church-lighthouse.
Already, the laying of the first stone in the Foundation of the original structure, located on a cliff.
Decided to build a temple in honor of the sailors who died on the water.
The total height of the temple is about 55 m. In its internal and external design will be nautical theme.
Crown Church the cross, which is exalted above openwork ball symbol lands in the middle of which is a lighthouse.

Scored drinking water.
Not so often on the coast will I meet a good drinking water.
Here, even in the normal crane on the market, the water was cold and delicious.
Later we found out that the water in the village is fed from a mountain river Ulu-Uzen, whose origins are in the mountainous Crimea.
Compare for example the Kerch, where the water comes from the North-Crimean canal, from the dirty current of the Dnieper.

The fishing village drove without stopping because nothing about him can not say

The next three hours it took us to take two passes with a height of 350 and 400 meters approx.
Endless climb to 10-12 kilometres and a snapshot of SPUSK by the same amount.
During the descent wore a hood. The air was cool and the ears on the wind was icy as winter.

Rinat as always went ahead. We rarely managed to overtake him.
All the same training from childhood, and the advantage of the road bike did not leave us a chance.
We must pay tribute to all of us - we never got off the bicycles and walked.
Still to the middle of the campaign the strength of our muscles and stamina greatly increased.

Marat was initially riding hard behind. Said that bad rolls for some reason.
Sometimes had to stop and wait. Not to be lost accidentally again.
Rinat lane ahead and rarely looked back.

I have developed the optimal mode of pedaling on those long climbs.
On particularly steep sections of the route pedaled standing up, waddle.
So it turns out the lever more and less effort applied. Then you can transfer more to deliver.
But for a long time do not twist, since it is necessary to move not only feet, but the weight of the whole body.
When tired, sit on the saddle and back to 1:1. As they say, slowly but surely.
Are gradually drawn into this monotonous rhythm, and even start getting some pleasure from lifting.

On the last pass before descending into the valley of the river Uskut stopped to eat a candy bar and enjoy the astounding landscape.
Low relief clouds gave a magical flavor the already fantastic scenery.

Shortly before this we met along the way cyclists - peasants of their Donetsk and Lugansk.
About half an hour talking.
And even got to meet the procession of bikers on black chrome motorcycles. Well, this is clear even head in our direction turned.

The route to the village of Privetnoye from a height of 400 metres, it descends almost perpendicularly to the sea.
And especially in the last meters of the descent, when we rush to the ambulancespine 50 kilometers per hour and meet you with great speed approaching the SEA, as if covering you sides good powerful hands, the soul sings and shouts from the inescapable delight. You're filled with indescribable joy pouring waves out.

Privetnoye is 50 km North-East of Alushta and 30 km West of Sudak.
The village is located 3 km from the sea, in a wide mountain valley, sheltered from the North by spurs of the Karabi-Yaila.


The time was late evening. Yes, and we're tired.
All the same, four pass 400 meters, almost in the same breath. Decided to the Sea not to go, and in General made the right decision.
Went down to the sea. Along the coast — very nice deserted beaches. Sand and pebbles.
Here we decided to roll the dice.
Put up a tent, uncovered backpacks.

See on top of the trail there is a patrol of three military. In our direction. Well, I think we have now probably gather.
No, by the past, only glared in our direction.
Still we froze a bit. Is useful here a bottle of vodka. We drank for sugrevu a bit.
Began to cook food and then saw another figure walking on the edge of the shore in our direction.
All in camouflage, hung with knives and flasks. Behind a huge backpack.

Well there is myself and let him go.
You never know who goes there.
However, he approached us and asked - not if we saw there dead dolphins.
He asks people who are literally on their last legs descended from the mountains and are retired!

However, word for word, struck up a conversation.
In the course of which it turned out that his name was Sasha and he works at the Karadag biological station.
Writing some kind of work about dolphins. Studying why those beaching.

We all had dinner together. And invited Sasha to spend the night with us.
Though I did not realize that our tent triple.
And the biologist was a big boy:)
Rinat all the way then remembered how bad he was. As he did not have enough air as it was crushed and guts almost came out through the throat.

We are an hour and a half sleep listening to Sasha's stories.
About dolphins, about self-made wine in the markets, about shellfish and other flora and fauna of the Black sea.

In the Black sea is inhabited by 3 species of dolphins:
Bottlenose Dolphin (well, it's the largest, often go near the shore in small groups or individually, in dolphinariums that they are),
belobochka (smaller size, lighter color, go to the sea in flocks, close to shore are not suitable),
azovka (very small size is 0.5 meters, light whitish) as the mass of the background views.

At the beginning of the century, their density in the Black sea was high, the number was at least 1.5—2 million individuals, in shoals of up to 100, sometimes up to 1,000 individuals.
The first significant damage to the population caused fisheries that began in the late 20-ies.
Only by-catch while fishing for fish in the northwestern part of the Black sea was mined about 1,000 dolphins per year, which is passed for processing to Ochakov, Kherson, Vilkovo, Odessa fish factories.
In the midst of fishery production reached 200 thousand units per year (around Black sea).
Forbidden was fishing off the coast of the Soviet Union, Bulgaria, Romania only in 1967, off the coast of Turkey fishery continued until 1983.
As a result, by the mid 70-ies the population of black sea dolphins has decreased to 300 thousand.

Since dolphins belong to the toothed whales , they are protected by a huge number of various conventions. Despite this, some indirect data suggest a decrease in the population of dolphins in the Black and Azov seas.
Primarily because of the predatory fishing of what is possible, first, of the actions of poachers, and secondly, poisoning, in the third.
In other words the dolphins are deprived of food resources (and the adult offline need a day to eat quite a decent amount fish), put the poaching network in which the dolphins (the mass stranding of harbour porpoise, offline usually tear) get tangled up and suffocate.
And finally, the dolphins stand on the top of the food chain, so they accumulate the maximum number of all sorts of toxins (there are such unpleasant properties of many living organisms, the toxins accumulate in itself) from what is actually dying.

Here Sasha wanders all summer on the coast.
If it finds the carcasses of dead dolphins pinch off from them piece by piece, tearing teeth with special pliers.
Everything in order then to investigate and understand the cause of death.
About wine, which markets under the guise of a homemade sell to local residents.
This is mainly the business of the Crimean Tatars, he said.
And apparently a thriving business.
Not versed in wine tourists take it willingly. And many do not care what to drink - if only it is cheaper, but in the head, so quickly gave.

Write down the recipe as stated:

taken with a cheap white wine.
If you want the red wine was added to it to touch-up the cheapest red wine (not wine stress !) and mulberry.
After that add the alcohol, caramel and all sorts of flavors.
At best, it's all acetates amyl alcohol (like that pear smelled), and maybe even that pohlesche there are all sorts of esters.

And here is the stuff sold at the markets of Crimea.
Those who are not particularly bother - in conventional plastic bottles of water and some dust in the eye, pour it in a makeshift wooden barrels with a tap.
To meet a normal homemade wine almost impossible.
I go to the market and you almost hand grab to buy wine! or at least try!
In Sudak along the Cypress alley there are sellers - they sell in bottles with labels like true - type work at the brewery, and paid for wine given. They have a legend like that. Compassionate.
How not to buy!
I immediately remembered that I tried this "wine" in the Eski-Kermen Vova! BRR - just a taste in my mouth appeared

Okay - time to sleep.
About shellfish at other times.