Journey to Grenlandia

The amazing inhabitants of the coastal forests

Day 13 (06.09.2004)

The next morning everyone slept as much as I wanted. After the rain a little cold.
This morning was especially chilly. To slightly warm built a small fire.
Despite the fact that all around were trees with the wood were tight. Juniper forest is not like the fallen trees of Central Russia.
Branches there is virtually no firewood there.
Junipers all lush and green.
And then there's the reserve - to cut and break the hand does not rise.
For the days that we were here at night, the bonfire was never lit, so as not to attract the attention of foresters if they go somewhere nearby.
And the fire is not visible against the bright sun.

Had good walk around to find some wood. Scored poluabsorbtion brands from other old sites.
I stumbled upon some sinister place. Apparently there once was a coven of some of the Satanists or the like religious fanatics.
Cabalistic signs painted on the trees. A large trampled meadow. A huge wooden cross leaning against the far corner, a hastily downed two sticks.
I THOUGHT ABOUT GOING WOOD. But burn it, we decided not to.
Marat went looking on the bike and came back with stump the trunk.

For lunch quite rizogalo and although the water was already 20 degrees, we swam. Nadia normally used , and we people are shy in a bathing suit for an old man:)
At 30 meters from the shore sticking out a little porous rock.
At a depth of meters it was through grotto. Nadia Marat began to entertain the fact that dive and tried under water to swim. Marat did it immediately, and Nadia apparently interfered with her slender loin, which plays the role of the float. She could not take in the water.
But after grueling workouts she managed to push through the water hole. She was in seventh heaven.

Towards evening there was a dinner with wine, brought the day before.

We sat around our improviziruemwow a table and enjoyed our simple but no less delicious food, each other's company and nature of this fabulous place.


Time for lyrical digressions.
Over the previous days we explored the surroundings of our Parking lot and built a more or less coherent impression of them.

Cape Aya (Holy) — precipitous Western tip of the southern coast of Crimea, distant from major roads and beaten paths of tourists.
To the South-West of Cape Aya Balaklava to the Gold beach stretches the territory of the state landscape reserve "Cape Aya".

That's why there remains a pristine and untouched landscapes.
Civilized man had not yet arrived to the reserved silence of these groves did not have time to saw for Souvenirs resinous trunks millennial junipers, to trample down the meadows with rare orchids and philagrafika.

Here you can see climbing the mountain path leopard snake listed in the Red book.

And in coastal waters, lost in their warm embrace, you can find a great variety of crabs, shellfish and mussels.
Peregrine falcons, eagles soaring in the ocean of the sky, suddenly announce a shrill whistle space, reminding us that life is boiling, not only among the sun-drenched cliffs.

A little further from the Golden beach if you walk along the forest path you can reach the natural boundary ajazma neither (or Fig as it is also called).
Almost Paradise - clear sea, places for tents very much, so even with a large influx of tourists is where to stay.
We were at the beginning of September and people naturally subsided.

They say somewhere up in the mountains there is a spring.
Walk along the path that runs above the beach, you need to get to a huge boulder (the height of a three story house).
Immediately after it starts up (about half an hour walk) .
At the beginning of the ascent is quite steep.
The last 5-7 minutes pass on the open range.
Spring itself is located in a clearing in the forest on the slope.

We did not go there because the water brought from Balaklava.

Further Figs is the natural Park of the Lost world.
Beaten track there is almost no access to the sea through the forest.
This place is apparently so called by analogy with the novel Conandoyle for perfect solitude and inaccessibility.
However all this is relative and on the same skiffs from Balaklava you can reach any part of the reserve down to Balaclava.

Without reaching to Laspi Bay , the sea pressed against the sheer wall of the mountains from the top of Kush-Kaya ("bird rock"), stretches in a narrow ribbon along the coast of the tract Batiliman (in translation from Greek means "deep Bay").
At Cape Aya this strip very close to the shore and only about Laspi retreating a mile.
The place is surprisingly cozy, warm, one of the sunniest in the Crimea — more than 2400 hours of sunshine per year.
The surroundings of Batiliman is extremely interesting for its flora, trees, whose age is approaching the Millennium.

Here from 1911 to 1914, a group of scientists, writers and artists have built about 20 small cottages, beginning the holiday village Batiliman.
In 1910 and 1917 in Batiliman lived with the family of a Professor of St. Petersburg Polytechnic Institute, Abram Ioffe, later a prominent Soviet physicist.
In 1924 in the Batiliman opened the rest house of the USSR Academy of Sciences.
But the lack of reliable water sources has hampered the development of the resort.

And now it is limited, as created here is the reserve "Cape Aya", the originality of the whole natural complex of Batiliman are of great scientific interest, and untouched by the construction Bank, the relict juniper forests of high, small-fruited, pine Stankevich require exceptional environmental protection.
Pine Stankevich is a rare endemic, that is characteristic only for the Crimea species of flora. But in our Peninsula, this pine is found only in two places — the pike Perch and in the area of Cape Aya.
At the Cape, she climbs on the mountain slopes of the cliffs reaching heights of 300 m, often forming woodlands.
Her emerald needles large sitting upright cones-candle-stands out vividly on the background of ash-pink limestone cliffs.

In summer the air is filled with the aroma of pine, juniper, grasses and sea.
A reserved silence is announced only by the chirping of cicadas.
Here nature follows its eternal laws.
And the only crowd of wild tourists, many of whom are deprived of any rudiments of mind and culture, spoil it all with his presence and barbaric attitude.
Piles of garbage strewn almost everywhere. Especially around Golden beach.

The principle behind the reserve is kept by foresters.
Especially in the fire season of July-August.
They do not prohibit Parking, but require a fee in the amount of 5 USD a person for one day.
On the one hand of course it is a pity to give money.
But on the other I understand that this is the smallest price to pay for something that they could hold the reserve in a more or less tolerable condition.

Us for those two days that we were there, the foresters are not met.

But was found by the Indians and strolling musicians.



"Indians" in Crimea is certainly not a race of people.
This unshaven, long-haired, people. Usually they live in the cave city of Mangup-Kale.
"Indians" is very good, peaceful.
Anyone can expect that they will not let him starve to death.
Most of them are young people.
Their life is deprived of the amenities we are accustomed to. The only reminder of civilization is the radio. Sleeping without tents, dry grass , laid on the ground.
On cold days, "Indians" warm fires are dissolved directly inside the caves. In winter the cave entrance is fastened with a plastic or blanket.

Can I saywhat they live off of the tourists.
Returning home, they leave the products "Indians".
Among them, different people: someone came into the community on their own, and some simply have nowhere to live.
For the summer, come to the sea and live on the coast, because in caves it gets hot.
Most of the "Indians" appear periodically in the city to earn money. But there are those that haven't been there for several years .
Some collect bottles to use the money to buy some cheap cereal and bread.

We met two of these guys.
One of them was Andrew -he told us what worked six months ago at AVTOVAZ, and then he suddenly was sick and he went to the Crimea.
And with the spring lives here.
Behind him was a backpack nabity banks with spinach. This is their usual food.
And live far away from civilization, from its eternal life and problems.

Ukrainian musicians came that day in the morning and camped near us.
We certainly did not know that they are musicians.
Rinat as the chief specialist on public relations immediately rushed to him to restore the friendship bridge.
There were four of them - Valerie, Dima, Oleg and nick.
The guys were from Kiev and Dnepropetrovsk. They had their own group and they are even going to zapisyvat your disk.
While we swam in the sea far from the neighborhood echoed theirs roulades.
The guys arrived they began to dig. Everyone dug grooves around the couches. Stretched between the trees polyethylene no tents.

When it got dark we called them for dinner. They came to us not with empty hands - and brought the pot with fresh soup.
We gave them their brew.
And up to three nights sat talking and of course singing he listened to them sing. The Ukrainians were very devout, big fans of Dynamo Kiev and President Viktor Yushchenko.

Most of their stories was to ensure the sense of pride that they feel for their country.
They were like Bolong children excitedly trying to share their successes and benefits. At first it was a bit funny, but then I just stopped concentrate on that.

And they sang really good. Especially national songs - both folk and private.
And sang Russian songs, especially Shevchuk and from old Soviet films.

Rinat from excess of emotion gave them prudently taken from the house of Kubis.
They immediately improvised - including his sound in the overall band.
Guitar and kobyz - an interesting combination.
And the Ukrainians, in turn, gave us Gosudarstvennyj flag with an inscription.

It was quite cold and we had to huddle each other to stiffen.
And the Ukrainians warmed songs. Overall very interesting people.
A little later we pulled up two more kids from somewhere. Everyone found the place and food.

Well, to sleep is a sin not to tell you about a few other indigenous inhabitants of the Crimean Peninsula, meeting kotoromy may not be as pleasant.
I mean some of the predstvaviteli the animal world.

In Crimea there are poisonous insects - the most dangerous spider the black widow (or Black Widow).

Fortunately it is difficult to meet, if not specifically look for - do not stick your fingers in his mouse hole, and turn the large stones in the desert, - that there is a poisonous spider can wait.
The majority of Crimean natives, despite the fact that he lived in Crimea all my life, never seen a black widow. Karakurt - a perfectly black, smooth, shiny and not hairy spider the size of 2 cm You could even say that it is pleasant to the sight, - slender, graceful and seems harmless.
Its bite is painless, but after 10 to 15 minutes after a sting in the abdomen, lower back and chest pain occurs unbearable.
Some time later, the victim will feel fear, and then begin thnovokracine, then a dyspnea, cramps, vomiting. The face becomes purple-blue.
If you have a very strong 'iron', the body, then after 2 - 3 weeks recovery occurs. But often after the bite of a karakurt death occurs.

To avoid unfortunate consequences, you need to set a dozen matches, and while break out the head, insert them into the bite.
To cauterize the wound, no more than two minutes after being bitten, then the venom from the action of high temperatures will disintegrate.

Of poisonous insects we caught only the Crimean centipede.
Quite a lot of them in the reserve Aya. Usually they sit under stones in damp. We've seen a few pieces around our tent.

Centipede - a few exotic species of centipede in length from 10 to 22 cm
Tobacco brown with the blue color, sometimes with the addition of greenish, and bright orange legs.
Centipede is really dangerous, but she only rarely bites, but wish to allocate from the tips of its legs poisonous liquid.
If to scare her and she will run after that on your skin, on your body can remain inflamed, poisoned band. After some time there will be searing pain and a fever that indicates a General poisoning of the body.
For a healthy adult the bite of the scolopendra, although and causes a lot of pain, not fatal.
If the skin will run nepugannyh centipede, then nothing will happen, because the poison it emits just feeling a threat to his life.

In the steppe part of Crimea the Viper whose bite, though I'm toxic but not fatal, and in the sea sea cat (a type of Stingray) ,which you can not step.
The wound is quite painful and hard, but that shock still has not died. Summer on the beaches it is unlikely to meet.
But in the coves of the wild coast of the Kerch Peninsula, where rarely vacationers to step on it.
There is still morccoi dragon - beautiful fish, with a length of 15-20 cm.
On his back he poisoned spines in the fin. Injection the tumor develops from the prick of the point above .
According to the degree of danger is comparable to the scolopendra


From plants the most dangerous burning Bush (fraxinella), which blooms in early June.
In June the plant is covered with large flowers pale lilac or pinkish color. The beauty of the colors just becomes cause of accidents.
An unusual, sharp scent of the flowers attracts in most cases women.
So, seeing the burning Bush, around her have a party: this plant is in any case not to touch, especially to the flowers and bolls with seeds.
Because all of the plant emit volatile toxic compounds, which are also well-lit, flashing from a spark.
On the skin causes severe burns with blisters that are cracked strip meat to the bone.

Well, now it seems time on the side.
Big day tomorrow - the daylight's end and again in a way.