Journey to Grenlandia

In the citadel the military of Crimea

Day 10 (03.09.2004)

Traveled: 41 miles
Total of the journey: 5 hours
Pedal: 2H 28 min.
CP.speed: 16.4 km/h
Temperature: 28C



In the morning I as usual got up early and decided not to Wake the boys. They were exhausted yesterday passes and slept without hind legs.
The sun was just rising and the mist in the valley had not yet lifted. Morning coolness was pleasantly cool.
I walked along the cliff, he admired the Ternovka. He went into the woods and once again marveled at the huge number of fungi, which no one here apparently does not collect for reasons unknown to me.
Returned to camp and began to cook our morning oatmeal unchanged.
Woke the companions.

Was going this time long and reluctantly.
Late fees Rinat found loss cases. He lost it apparently during yesterday's fall when traveling with Marat in search of the source.
We rushed back and lo! found it neatly leachim in the middle of a forest road.
Luckily for us for the night then no one has passed before us.
Mood Rinat rose he finally deigned to take our picture on the slope.
Otherwise we really would be left without pictures in this lot.


Weduwe trail down the mountain is quite steep.
Hands always had to keep on the brakes and still the wheels slipped on the pebbles of limestone.
Sometimes I had to walk, since the bike broke into an uncontrolled slide. Reaching the foothills, we came to an asphalt road and captured from below the mountain which descended.

Further our way was through the village of Chernorechye and Khmelnytsky.
The road is a lovely asphalt is constantly under bias. It is here that each of us Posavje personal speed record. I broke up your begemota to 60 km/h , Marat - 67 , and Rinat to 73. In Khmelnytskyi finally threw out the trash from the Parking lot. Bought some water.
The road from Khmelnytsky to pervomayka goes along the vineyards. Kids students and peasants with scythes complement the pastoral picture.
After pervomaika to the highway Sevastopol-Yalta is steep and Marat Rinat decided to be cut at speed. Won of course Rinat.

Crossing the road we headed down into Balaklava Bay.
Still some ten or fifteen years ago for the emergence of these places we would have waited for the prison.
And that's metamorphosis - we rush to sail on a top-secret places.
We see what was not intended for prying eyes.
Unwittingly inner awe covers the entire body and thoughts become alarmingly serious.




"Where is the Italian sword the Mongols rebuffed,
Where the Greeks your verb on the walls inscribed,
Where the path to Mecca was where the prayers were read,
There the wings of a black vulture over the cemetery stretched,
Like a black banner, a silent sign of sorrow..."
Adam Mickiewicz


In silence we drove through the city and went to the center to the Bay on the waterfront nazukina.
But there was universal excitement and fun. Hundreds of people in festive attire walked the promenade.
In the water near the shore there was a huge platform stage with large speakers. Loud music was playing.
We were in the midst of the upcoming holiday.
Balaclava prepares to celebrate its centuries-old anniversary.

The history of Balaklava has about 2500 years, and nobody knows the exact date of the founding of the city. But this date was going to celebrate on this day - September 3, 2004 the birth of Christ.

It is known that the shore of the Bay has been inhabited since ancient times.
A famous poet Maximilian Voloshin wrote
"Everything you'll find in this land.
For the archaeologist and numismatist -
From the Roman buckles and Hellenic coins
To buttons Russian soldier!.."


In ancient times, Balaklava was known far beyond the Crimea according to the testimony of Greek, Arabic, Polish, and other geographers and travelers.
Assume that Balaklava was the port of Lamos of the laestrygonians - according to Greek mythology giants, cannibals encountered by Odysseus and his companions during their travels. Legend has it that here took place the meeting of Odysseus and his companions with the bloodthirsty tribe that slaughtered nearly the entire squad ingenious traveler.

The shore of the Bay, surrounded by mountains, since ancient times attracted people as a convenient place for settlement.
The proximity of the sea allowed to use all the benefits of seaside life, the mountains sheltered from the enemy. From mountains and water was dripping in the forests there were a lot of animals.

All these advantages are appreciated by the ancient inhabitants of Balaklava - a brand. Already in the VII-VIII centuries BC there existed ranyevskaya settlement.

The ancient Greeks called the Balaklava Bay Syumbolon Line the Bay of Symbols (omens).

In the XIII century, when under the blows of the crusaders, the Byzantine Empire fell, control of trade routes in the Black sea, Italian merchants took.
Genoese colony in the Balaklava Bay received the name of Cembalo. It was an Italian corruption of the word "Syumbolon".
Chembalo, the Genoese began to actively explore, in the period from 1340 to 1357.
But legally, their ownership of these lands was formalized much later.
His power, the Genoese held with a small garrison, consisting of mercenaries. By Statute 1449 in the town there were 40 gunmen armed with ballistae. In each fortress - upper and lower - were commanders who obeyed the soldiers, carrying guard duty.
The Supreme administrative and military power belonged to the Consul of the Genoese, who till 1398 he was elected for a three-monthand from the local nobility, and then as Consul in Kaffa (Feodosiya) and Soldaia (Sudak), was assigned from Genoa.

The Crimean Khan, concluding in 1380 by the Genoese with a peace agreement that recognized their right of possession of the fortress, which from this time became known as the Genoese documents Cembalo (Cembalo, Cembalo).

In 1475 all the Crimea including Cembalo, was captured by the Turks.
In the fortress, renamed the Balaclava (from the Turkic Balyk-yuve - "fish nest"), is a Turkish garrison, was detained objectionable Crimean khans.

In 1625 Balaclava seized Zaporozhian and don Cossacks.
During a major joint campaign they were briefly captured Balaclava and Cafu (now Feodosia).
In subsequent battles with the Turkish fleet, they were defeated, having lost about 800 and 500 Cossacks of the don.

In 1773 occurred the so-called Balaklava naval battle: two Russian ship with 32 guns defeated four Turkish with 164 guns.
In 1774 by the Treaty of Kucuk Kaynarca(before accession of Crimea to Russia), the Turks left the Balaclava, their place was taken by the Cossacks, protecting the coast from the Turkish landing.
Balaklava is the first Parking lot of the Russian ships, before the annexation of Crimea to Russia.

In 1787 visited Balaklava Catherine II. Here, according to the plan of Gregory Potemkin, the Empress met the equestrians of the "Amazons" of the 100 Balaklava Greek.

During the Crimean war during the siege of Sevastopol, the British chose Balaclava for his main support base. The British settled a long time and with all the amenities.
They held the first in the Crimea railroad, built a quay (now quay Nazukin) - she is the main promenade of the city, several highways, shops, hotels, places of entertainment.
It then became known as the ancient harbour, "Little London".

Since the late nineteenth century Balaklava began to develop as resort.
Here were built the villas of the princes Yusupov and Gagarin, Earl Naryshkin, Apraksin, Prince Villa, etc., and in 1888 was opened the sanatorium in 1896 built power plant.

Since 1921, Balaklava became the center of Balaklava district in the Crimean autonomy.
In connection with the establishment of the Main naval base of the black sea fleet - Sevastopol, on the basis of important military, strategic and geographical location, in 1957, Balaklava became part of the city of Sevastopol became the center of a large district - Balaklava.
And was for many years a closed city.

Bay city selista and very deeply in the dry.
This is just the perfect place for berthing ships. Here never reach the stormy waves of the Black sea.

Even Homer wrote in his Odyssey:

In a nice Marina we entered: it is formed by cliffs
Cool with both parties lifting and sliding beside
The mouth of the great, against each other from temnye of the abyss
The sea of protruding rocks, the entrance and Exodus blocking.
My people, with vehicles entering the spacious Marina,
Approved them, and its depth and tied to the banks close
Next put: there's waves never neither great nor small
No, there is a plain smooth bosom of the shining sea.


We proudly solemn cavalcade rode along the waterfront.
Like the three Musketeers through the streets of Paris. Except that we don't Vivat shouted and bonnets did not.
But watched admiringly. Here's a small moment, but a triumph!

Then we ran to aunt televisionsets and asked him slowly to repeat our crown room - simultaneous sweaty men rolled past the throngs of townsfolk.
Rinat as always grumbled something about fees. But I obeyed the will of the majority and we got into the Chronicles of this town.
The plot apparently called:
"How great our city! As torjestvenno anniversary! And how many of th...weirdos came to visit us!"

Water in the Bay, almost level with the promenade, where the lights, the fishermen, the houses of the last century, coffeehouses.
To get to the open sea, you need to escape the city beach, the society of Balaklava anglers and go on the path along the fence of the military unit.
And here — you will, in a wild and wonderful chaos.
Huge red rocks, at the bottom the waves break on the boulders, away Cape Aya in front of the horizon without end and without...

In this town there once lived Kuprin, he wrote in “Laestrygonians”:
“Nowhere in the whole of Russia, and I'm decently it traveled in all directions — nowhere have I listened to such deep, full, perfect peace, in a Balaclava”.

Upon reaching the end of the promenade turned back. We had to eat.
First, like in cafe to sit, but then prevailed savings.
And after a while we sat on the benches by the sea to absorb bought buns, sausage and yogurt.
Food fallen on the bottom of our stomachs gave rise to a long chain of metabolic processes in our bodies and revived the thirst for movement.
Around the world sparkle with new colors.
We decided to drive to the Cape Fiolent(good on the map it seemed very close), and in the evening return to Balaklava to see the main action of the holiday.
The decision was incorrect but then we are not aware of it.
The return journey from the Bay to the highway (and only way was to drive to the Cape we were told) was terrible.
A constant rise in length of ten kilometers and a transmission of 1:1.
Crawling slow as a turtle, and it seems will never end. Meter by meter, turn-by-turn....
Near the road next to the sign marking the border of the city we stopped to take a breath.

After a few kilometers in the direction of Sevastopol, we turned left to Fiolent.
The road to the beach goes past the cemetery and then more like a roller coaster.
The terrain is steeply sloping. On the way Rinat drove to the garage on the presence of argon welding.
Worrying him to brew a cracked aluminum trunk. Of course she wasn't there, but was given an address in Sevastopol.

The area of Cape Fiolent is a hilly plateau.
The road often passes by army trucks and armored personnel carriers standing in a row (reserves in case of war apparently).
The area around Balaklava Bay before carefully protected from prying eyes, because in addition to base submarines were installed here, both underwater and terrestrial launch pads for missiles, numerous military units serving this formidable weapon.
In addition, the part of the area was designated as the training of combat dolphins: a military Dolphinarium ruled over the entire coastal area of Cape Fiolent.

These places described in Homer's "Odyssey"; it is supposed that here was located the legendary temple of Diana where did your rite, the priestess Iphigenia.

 
As for the Russian and Ukrainian history, the thousands of monuments of the middle ages, the period of the Crimean war, recent history, monuments, military, economic and cultural activities of the Slavs.

On the slope of a mountain is the ancient St. George monastery. Abode here, as scientists believe, based together with Chersonesos natives of Heraclea Pontica.
Alexander Pushkin during his trip to the Crimea in 1820, spent the night in St. George monastery and went, accompanied by one of the monks, especially to see the ruins of the temple of Diana.

Cape Fiolent was a true literary Mecca.
Here he wrote his famous poem "Iphigenia in Tauris" Lesya Ukrainka, lived for a long time the writer Alexander Kuprin. About these places written by Alexander Griboyedov, Adam Mickiewicz, Tolstoy, Aleksey Tolstoy, Ivan Aksakov, Vissarion Belinsky.

There is a legend about how in the fall of 1840, accompanied by a French adventuress Adele Omer de Gel on the schooner "Julia" secretly visited the Crimea Mikhail Lermontov, in honor of what one of the headlands on Cape Fiolent withnow named after him. True or not is not known - in the Crimea, many of these stories to attract tourists invented.

It was visited by Anton Chekhov, Maxim Gorky, Aleksandr grin, Paustovsky and thousands of famous people. Extremely rich these places are monuments of military history.

And the worse observe what is happening with this place.
The reserve is only the coastline, cliffs and a few meters from the edge of the inland plateau.
Close to the shore all the built-up suburban areas with houses of varying degrees of ugliness.
The fact is that the earth is at Cape Fiolent close to the reserve allocated for development, and the rich people of Sevastopol (I heard that the city is home to the eighth part of the Ukrainian millionaires!), as well as Dnepropetrovsk, Moscow and many other cities to build private resorts and luxury villas.
These buildings were erected not only in the place of unexplored historical monuments, but also on the site of the former cemetery where many, including the great Patriotic war.
The entire reserve with its landscape and historical monuments from the outside world separated by the fences of these sites.
There is not even fire driveways!
May soon happen that it will be available only to occupants of these "palaces" and will be walking to their dogs...

We are able to get to shore only after passing through territriyu garden Association.
Also almost got into a fight with the gatekeeper is not willing to let us inside.
But Rinat hit him with all the power of his African temperament.
And while he was thinking about the true nature of his origin, he told us, seeped inside.

But when you go to the beach - forget about the bleak landscape behind.
The majestic hundred-meter cliffs covered with subtropical trees, the outlines of the monastery on the left and the ledge of the Cape Fiolent on the right.
Down in sea rock with a stone cross
And at a little distance stood out off the coast of Cape Fiolent rocks Orestes and Pylades – these characters, according to legend, was sent by Apollo to Tauris to return the statue of Artemis.
Down on the Jasper beach stone staircase goes down to 800 steps.

We went to the left side of the sanctuary. If we move in the direction of Sevastopol on the shore - there are still many beautiful places.

To put the tent was absolutely nowhere.
We reluctantly went to look for housing.
A garden apartment. Their owners like to kill two birds with one stone and garden also contain money from the tourists.
We easily found a place for $ 4 per person. It is a decent house and welcoming hosts. With water they have a large strained. It is given once a day, and they fill large tanks standing in every house.

Showered, washed and leaving bicycles in the yard, went to Jasper beach.
The descent takes about 15 minutes if you walk slowly.
The time was about five and the sun was setting. We were sunbathing long.

Rinat as usual started looking for women to shoot. This time it turned out there is a diptych by called "compass Legs" I represent your attention.

Jasper beach is quite small. The left and the right of the restricted area of the refuge.
We were down at Cape Fiolent and the Forester came and asked everyone who was there to get out. By the way, collecting things, I lost your wonderful Swiss penknife:(
It was my only loss for the entire trip.

The sun is setting behind the mountain and it was cool.
The way back up the long staircase was very tedious.
In General, those who rest here must be great coaching to your heart every day, several times going down and getting up.
Upstairs there was a strong wind and it was quite chilly.
Rinat came up with the idea to capture each of us in the position of a dreamer, the benefit of the environmentAUSA nature quite disposed to it.



We got so tired, that none of what you go on holiday to Balaclava the speech was not. Which is a pity.

In the evening, cook in the pan once the porridge with sausages, we went to sleep on the plush beds.
However Rinat went to bed with Flex grid.
And under it stood the master of the pickles. So it came out that he literally slept on the cucumbers.

Marat is also something not liked and as a result, having suffered for some time, they both lay down on the floor in sleeping bags and bed foam.
As the peasants came to the capital for the Congress of people's deputies in the 30s and settled in the hotel "Moscow" near the Kremlin.
They were not able to use anything and slept on the floor without disassembling the beds, and washed with water from the toilet.(we thank God it did not come).