The Danish day - the Woman of his dreams
Chapter in which Carlson is looking for a woman and make merry with the Baby on the waterfront Nyhavn
The kid was sitting with Carlson , dusk, and in the Copenhagen lights, sea lights, wherever you see.
Yes, evening was coming, the Kid was sitting next to Carlson, and it was good.
Somewhere in the sea swims back, to Stockholm, the white ship, and on deck are people.
Bok was at home, on Frejgatan.
But here the Kid was sitting with his best friend, and they ate fresh buns and drinking beer.
It was all wonderful.
The next morning he opened his eyes had no rise at the crack of dawn.
The weather was cool (+18) and in the air hung damp.
In the words of Rinat, he had to crawl out of the tent as if in outer space.
But he is known Merzlyakov said.
On the beach with dog walking locals (I wonder how many times subsequently saw the Scandinavians on deserted beaches - so all only used them for dog walking - no to lie on the sand and sunbathe)
Some with interest looked in the direction of our tents before seen such lawlessness - as the camp is on the banks of Eresund they do not have to watch.
But you have to give credit to anybody did not come to us in soul did not climb with questions about who we are.
Nevertheless, we quickly took the tent down , had Breakfast and at eight in the morning (unheard of!) moved on.
First, we had to return to Elsinore.
The city was still asleep and was deserted and quiet.
It was first mentioned in written sources in the 13th century.
However, the heyday, no doubt, accounts for the Renaissance, when the Elsinore becomes the second important city of Denmark.
It is with great pleasure ride on its old narrow streets.
Elsinore was really the ancient city in contrast to Stockholmand where the old part (Gamla Stan) is only preserved on a small island .
Here the old was virtually the entire city.
The spirit of Anderson's fairy tales immediately enveloped us with his head.
And it seemed that now, from the corner will come the Tin soldier or OLE Lukoie.
And Rinat in childhood in addition to wooden toys, there was another book - the little Mermaid, which he reread many times.
So he other tales Anderson did not know.
But the little Mermaid at Elsinore did not smell. I had to go with her to Copenhagen.
I was also impressed by the abundance of drinking shops.
Every five meters there were wine shops with Windows Laden with bottles.
Speaking your language was that it is mainly for Swedes going to stock alcohol.
The silence was suddenly broken music and obscure human hum.
I have lived in the basement of the pub.
Rinat looked back and I could not pull him away from the festive crowd with a foaming beer steins.
Drinking beer in the morning before a long journey it was bad!
However Rinat myself into this when I saw the price from 50 euros for a mug.
Greed overcame the thirst:)
In the old old days when Eric VII, Duke of Pomerania, the first ruler of the United Kingdom into the state was a part of Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Faroe Islands, Iceland and Greenland, and the core was Denmark that dominated in the Baltic region.
During the reign of Eric on the coast of eresund Strait in his narrowed portion was built the fortress of Kronborg.
From all vessels passing through this Strait, was about the so-called resultsa duty
Kronborg served as a prototype of the famous Shakespeare's Elsinore castle of hamlet, Prince of Denmark.
In fact, this castle was never a Royal residence.
It was a donation mnogochislennyh duties from ships passing throughz the Strait between Denmark and Sweden for more than four centuries.
This duty the Danes charged very kind.
The value of the ship with the cargo, which was taken tax, they didn't check — it was called the captain of the ship.
But there was a rule: any vessel could be purchased by the Danish Treasury for the said price.
It worked flawlessly — the duty is paid in full.
Elsinore castle (Kronborg), where the action of the play was built a few centuries after Shakespeare described case.
So that no hamlet in serious thought on the wall did not go.
But of course the tourists don't say it.
Otherwise they will be drawn to look at the old wall.
Travel myths invented is in all countries.
For themselves as Danes Kronborg is associated with a different name.
"In Denmark the historic Kronborg castle; it lies on the shores of Eresund... its deep, dark dungeon where no-one goes, sits Holger the Dane...," wrote Andersen in one of his tales.
This is the Holger Danske, Holger the Dane, the mighty hero, who, according to legend, in a deep sleep in the dungeon of the castle. "He is all clad in iron and steel and propping the head by a mighty hand.
Long beard him firmly rooted to the marble table.
He sleeps and dreams of everything that is done in Denmark", — is spoken in the Anderson fairy tale.
Ho, legend has it, he will definitely Wake up as soon as Denmark will have a serious danger, and will defend their country. Only the threat hanging over the Danish Kingdom may Wake him up.
In addition to the famous Kronborg in Elsinore there is another famous castle.
Palace Marienlyst is one of the earliest in Denmark, samples of classical architecture and garden art.
The history of the construction of Marienlyst closely associated with Kronborg.
The Palace was conceived and built as a little garden, or woodland pavilionn large residence of Danish kings.
The pavilion was built in the Italian Renaissance style, in contrast to Kronborg, built in the more typical Northern European style of the Dutch Renaissance.
In the mid-18th century the Palace was extended and rebuilt in the classical style by the French architect Nicolas Henri Gardena ( N. A. Jardin).
In the Park Marienlyst is a symbolic grave of hamlet.
In Elsinore there was nothing more we magnificent path running along the shore headed to the capital of Denmark.
Meet us across countless cyclists.
Closer to Copenhagen witnessed a little conflict.
The promenade between the two towns used by cyclists-roadies for their workouts.
We several times had to give way to them when they are groups of a few people rolled back and shouts were asked to give way.
And here's the athlete overtook and ran into a black Mercedes which did not want to give way.
Athlete something as he walked and on the go signs expressed what he thinks about the driver.
The driver was some black-haired Caucasian type of appearance do not withstand the insults.
Mercedes caught up with the biker and clipped him.
As a result of clashes between the two men's blood was not shed, but the screams were many. Hot horsemen and got to Scandinavia.
On the way we admired the absolutely toy Danish houses with thatched roofs.
Previously, it was a sign of poverty, now - of wealth.
If you look closely closely you may see how a complex structure such roofs.
Surely they are warmer and more environmentally friendly.
Before each private house, and almost all large buildings permanently hoisted the Danish flag - a horizontal white cross on a red field.
It has its own name - the "Dannebrog", which means "the Strength of Denmark".
This is one of the city's ancient walls.ASIC, and maybe that the most ancient of today's flags of the world, and even in Europe, older than him there is none.
The legend about its origin says that in 1219, during the battle the Danish crusaders with the pagan Estonians, on the very spot where now stands the Tallinn (by the way, translated from Estonian means "Danish city" ) the time has come when the natives advanced to the attack, and the Danish ranks wavered.
And when the crusaders started to retreat, the red banner with a white cross fell from the sky into the hands of the Bishop accompanied the army.
Miracle inspired the Danes with new forces rushed to the Gentiles, and utterly defeated them, establishing the power of their king in Estonia.
This explains the name value of the flag.
In memory of the victory gained wonderful flag became the state, and now, almost eight hundred years does not change its figure.
The distance to Copenhagen about 40 km we covered in two hours and about 11:00 drove to the city.
The capital of Denmark is very extensive in area.
We are about an hour driving to the center.
By the way, I took 500 DKK from his card in one of the ATM machines of which there are countless on every corner.
Denmark's capital Copenhagen literally means 'merchant harbour'.
Foggy and rainy weather of these places sets the fashion in natural, boring colours - grey, beige, dark green colors...
Even painted in fashionable black color.
The city really seemed to me grey and dim.
In the XIX century on the Royal throne of Denmark, Christian IV ascended.
If not for him, all of the sights of old Copenhagen can inspect for any $ a couple of hours.
The king-Builder, as he was called by the Danes, ascended the throne at the age of 11 years.
His entourage were unaware that the young king would show such zeal in public Affairs.
The boy was growing up faster than I'd like Regent, and, not having yet to grow a beard, he won the love and respect of his subjects. Christian IV also had an eye for beauty and understand what's missing from the city.
In Denmark it is still considered the most popular king.
Monuments in his honor can be found on almost every street.
This is not surprising, because Christian IV created the familiar image of Copenhagen.
He ordered to dig the channels where they were not to relieve the merchants and sailors access to the city.
So now the whole Central coastal area like little Venice.
The main fun of the city to strolling along the embankments of these channels, through the narrow streets and palatial squares are where different artists.
We Rinat first thing we went to Nyhavn - Nyhavn (New Harbour).
This kilometer-long channel along which a continuous series of stretch cafes, pubs, restaurants.
On the waters of the canal, consecrated a bright light to many restaurants, swaying a luxury yacht with a forest of masts.
Their imposing owners moved in fish taverns, located in a neat colourful houses on the waterfront are sticky to each other without the slightest gap.
Here we are so separated from the environment and atmosphere of fun that we are the first and only time for the trip decided to sit in the restaurant and drink the famous Danish beer.
Sitting under a canopy outdoors ordered the menu and without further ADO took a business lunch for 99 kroner and Carlsberg beer for 49.
Rinat was just sobbing in pity for exorbitant spending.
Bikes leaned against the parapet opposite in order not to lose them out of sight.
The atmosphere around was more than democratic. Along the canal were absolutely mixed audience.
Someone drinking beer from bottles (a stark contrast with Sweden), someone was singing songs with a guitar.
Our neighbors were cuprousth couple from Tokyo.
The Japanese keenly interested in antovski photographic equipment when he pulled out his Nikon with a huge lens.
Clucked and said it was good bikoz Japan.
We of course did not object, and asked him to take our picture.
I always inwardly shudder when Rinat someone trusted to capture yourself, as the effects of this process Rinat almost never liked and it was worth reviled casual photographers.
So this time he made a terrible mine when I saw the result of the work of a neighbor-Japanese.
And only after five takes, he waved his hand and said thank you to the Japanese, sullenly muttered that this cross-eyed bastard doesn't know what goes in the composition.
"Bastard," of course fortunately did not understand and just smiling happily nodded his head.
The food was kind of scarce.
On a huge square plate piles were imposed a variety of salads and meat.
Piles were microscopic and as a result I do not gorged.
The vaunted Carsberg also was the most common beer.
Spending 400 crowns for two, we only received moral satisfaction.
After lunch we visited the square in front of Amalienborg and looked at how to serve the guards.
Amalienborg is a beautiful and famous Palace complex
The Royal guard, dressed in strict form and high furry hats, fur which are said to have been replaced with artificial.
Every afternoon a company of Lejb-guards in the old form, loudly knocking his heels on the pavement.
They say that the changing of the guard in Copenhagen takes place more solemnly than in London.
The Amalienborg Palace is the official residence of Danish kings.
This function performs the Palace for over 200 years.
No city in the world can tell You so many stories, how many of them tells his guests Copenhagen, a city of chimney sweeps, the Snow Queen, OLE Lukoie , the Princess and the pea and of course the favorite RiNAT little Mermaid.
This szajna girl has become a fixed idea for my friend to this day.
He emphatically said that is not going anywhere until you worship this Holy for each overgrown lad sculpture.
Based in 1043, Copenhagen is the capital of the oldest European Kingdom and, thanks to the Danish storyteller Hans Christian Andersen, this city has become the personification of his tales, magic and miracles.
Although to be honest I'm not too impressed. Elsinore I liked more.
The Danes themselves call their city Kobenhavn and when informed I asked the way to Copenhagen I did not understand, but I could not understand why I don't understand.
Bikes are the main form of transport in the Danish capital.
Cars in Denmark road.
And buses of the road twice (one trip – 13 crowns!).
In the narrow streets of the Central part of the bike there are no alternatives - it's the fastest form of transport.
Even many tourists take a bike.
A few years ago, in Copenhagen has introduced extremely convenient for visitors system.
The town was founded 120 Bicycle stands.
Come to the Park, throw a coin in twenty crowns in a special slot – and the bike for you.
Skated approach to any Parking lot, put the bike in the stand and falls out twenty crowns.
That is the bike I use absolutely for free!
The only disadvantage is that the ski area is strictly limited.
If a COP sees you on the municipal bike (and he immediately catches the eye because of the bright color), can not escape a fine of a thousand crowns.
The boundary of the ski area passes through the channels surrounding the center.
Near the site of our lunch on the canal is very beautiful and pompous New Royal square.
The former Royal residence, the air force Museum now occupies the theatre Royal, opened in 1722. Here is the Academy of Evilof sets.
Departs from her long pedestrian shopping street.
Here artists and entertaining locals and tourists and lots of Chinese and Turkish restaurants.
The feeling that you're not even in Europe.
But Danish too.
Danish cuisine is very diverse.
It combines meat, fish, seafood.
The Danes eat a lot of potatoes and bread, various sausages, vegetables and fruits.
Traditional national dishes: pork stew with hot red cabbage, salted chicken with pineapple, pork with apples and prunes, vegetables with fat-bacon Danish.
With our loaded bikes to jostle in the crowd was uncomfortable and we could not of steel, but I went to the wine shop while Rinat something was on the lookout for street vendors selling Souvenirs.
Wine prices shocked me.
They were much lower than in Russia and of course Sweden.
For example, a bottle of Bordeaux Medoc which is in Ufa is on sale for 700 rubles there is on the shelf for 190 R (converted from DKK) And known Chatenet du Pape - 490 1200 R against us.
In General, I'm there, too, hung for half an hour and left having bought two bottles of French and Spanish wines.
Also I sprayed red wine aunt broke the bottle at the cash register.
So I'm on top of the groin is full and harmonious bouquet with a barely noticeable notes of cherries and prunes.
Rinat already danced in place waiting for me, but seeing the wine softened and the curse was ready to fall from his lips lodged in the back of the throat.
The day exceeded half a primary goal - the little Mermaid and eluded our gaze.
We found it accidentally when along the coast we reached the fountain Gefion located next to the Museum of the Liberation.
The fountain was very beautiful.
He portrayed the ancient goddess Gefion in the team of four bulls.
According to ancient legend, the Swedish king promised the Northern goddess of fertility Gefion STOonly land as she could plow in 24 hours.
And gefion then turned her four sons into oxen and with their help dug eresund Strait, forming the island of Zealand.
After the fountain, we moved just North to a waterfront near where stood the white mass of the ocean liner.
And unknowingly drove past the little Mermaid, not noticing her.
The liner stood on the dock Angelidaki.
It was a real Titanic. Such a huge ship I had ever seen up close.
It's hard to imagine how vast it is inside.
Rinat opposed to a photo session on the background and mine is absolutely nothing.
Came out pretty good.
And then we found the little Mermaid.
More precisely, we showed it to the location the guys from Russia, which Rinat spotted nearby.
My friend was very happy.
He found the woman of his dreams and touched that lonely Shrine.
The famous Mermaid is the symbol of Copenhagen.
This sculpture was created by Edvard Eriksen.
The sculpture was installed in 1913, the model became renowned Danish ballerina of the century.
And in my favorite Crimea at the Black sea coast in the area of Mishor is an exact copy of the little Mermaid.
It is located not only near the shore, at some distance from him into the depths of the sea.
The mission today was completed and Rinat went peace.
But I told him that he had pleased. We had a long and difficult road.
Of course in 5 hours and we are unable to see the whole of Copenhagen, and certainly not seen the masses of its attractions.
But it is impossible to grasp the immensity and we started back.
I would like to mention one interesting part of the Danish capital - the district of Christiania is located on the island of AMO.
Some call him "the chief evil of Northern Europe", others – the island of freedom and peace, someone considers it a "shithole", and anyone elset there is ecological balance.
It all started in 1970 when several citizens broke the fence that stood at the corner of Prinsessegade and Refshalevej close to the Gray Hall.
In the same year in the underground newspaper "Movetbladet" was published an article devoted to the abandoned barracks "Badsmandsstrades Kaserne", and offered lots of ideas for using them, the most banal of which was to use the building as a dwelling.
This would give the opportunity to find housing for many young people.
Moreover, hippies and alternative movement "New society" is also needed for summer camp in which they would be able to realize some of their dreams come true.
In General, the article as it turned out, their job done.
And the result has been that a lot of people from different strata of society settled the same in these barracks with the hope of new life, which was to become the life of the community, where everyone could be free.
So Christiania was born.
It cannot be said that the city government easily yielded to the settlers of possession, which had their own views.
The times then were hard. The police poured all around tear gas and stormed the barricades, with the support of police dogs and batons.
Hippie, respectively, were throwing bricks and Molotov cocktails.
The media cried from happiness and reporting live.
But the inhabitants of Christiania were persistent, and they supported not only copenhageni, not only Danes, but also other Europeans.
Every attempt of the authorities to get rid of Christiania caused active protest of the public.
Authorities several times in those years attempted to get rid of Christiania.
Moreover, the district has become a hotbed of drug addiction.
Drugs in considerable quantity was used and sold in Christiania.
Realizing the situation, the Council decided that all those associated with heroin or any heavy (addictive) drugmi should leave Christiania.
Unfortunately, dealers and heroin addicts were completely irresponsible and flatly refused to go anywhere.
So in Christiania, the civil war began.
The real, once again with barricades, shooting, Molotov cocktail and other cool stuff.
Opponents of the drug won, drove out the drug dealers and changed the law.
Since Christiania is allowed only marijuana.
And you can sell it only in one place, which is called Pusher Street.
The rest is considered "clean".
That is the herb you can smoke, but can not be traded.
And for trying to sell hard drugs to any place of Christiania can seriously beat.
And the funny thing is that security functions are pot dealers.
From this direct benefit yet of heroin, the police are not especially clings.
It should be noted that Sweden does not like Christiania because of the fact that the Swedish students tend to run away from home and hang out here.
Once there was a rumor that Sweden has promised Denmark to close a nuclear power station, which in turn really do not like the Danes. If Denmark in response will close Christiania.
But their stations in Sweden and so closes gradually moving to wind energy, and Christiania as it was and left.
Modern Christiania looks like a living dream.
Pusher-Street began to resemble a modern-style shopping Mall.
Hashish laid out in neat tiles, like chocolate.
The grass is already packaged in bags, however, immediately stand scales.
An abundance of pipes and hookahs.
And above all this inviting, it is promotional labels.
Trade grass is now more local flavor than the main source of revenue.
Now there are plenty of stores to organic products, bookseller, collection ovens, Souvenirs.
In addition, over the 30 years of its existence Christiania became the largest cultural center of the COPengagea.
There are several art galleries and four concert halls. Thousands of people from all over Europe come to underground concerts in the "Gray Hall".
The inhabitants of Christiania are more cheerful.
Girls in bright sweaters, guys, does the reading newspaper in coffee shops, where, it seems, so here to live life: flipping through magazines, chatting with friends, sipping lemonade, Smoking a joint.
Here at all no hurry. The overall feel of the area (especially in the rain), as from some quiet, romantic Park with a small single-storey houses and streets without cars (Christiania — an area completely free of cars), no fences, the ubiquitous asphalt.
There are lots of paths that meanders lead through the bushland from one structure to another.
To come to Christiania and everyone can and when you want.
But stay here the stranger is almost impossible.
You will, only if you come under the hand of a woman or a man, "the citizens of Christiania", who chose you as a life partner.
Therefore, despite the General interest, a permanent population of Christiania is still small- about 600 people.
This is more than enough for a small area.
If it is a General overcrowding in Christiania is still possible to find completely empty buildings of the former Arsenal: we can't live here — the land is still poisoned by heavy metals used in the military.
Anyone can come here whenever I want.
But at the entrance to the Christiania welcomes you from the warning sign: "no Photography allowed".
The locals don't like it.
In all other matters they do not impose on the guests no restrictions. On the contrary, they are very friendly and open.
Now the residents of Christiania have no one tries to move from here. They "prescribed" to lawfully.
Christiania, Ah, Christiania!
The ripe fruit of liberal Denmark, > A strange place - Christiania,
It live difficult creation.
Difficult, uh, difficult
Not married and not single,
Their pockets are always empty
Bedrooms in the summer the bushes thick.
Days for baths - Thursdays and the environment
Children General, bikes...
Christiania! Ah, Christiania!
Freedom freestyle in the heart of Denmark.
Difficult live here create,
Their salvation Christiania.
From 1 July 2000, the Danes can visit their neighbors, the Swedes (and Vice versa) without using the services of the ferry.
And it is thanks to the big complex linking the two shores across the Strait eresund.
The Swedes, who will go by train or car on the Danish coast, passing first 8-kilometer bridge, get on the artificial island Peberholm length of 4 kilometers, and then a 3.5 km underwater tunnel and finally passing through the last stage of the race is 500 meters away, on another island, in the Copenhagen suburb of Kastrup.
This complex is called Oeresund Link.
In the complex: coastal access roads and railway lines (including interchanges and the station fare payment), a tunnel formed in the channel island, two approach trestle bridge, cable-stayed bridge.
The bridge is a two — storey, the upper level has four lanes (two lanes in each direction) highway, the lower is the electrified double-track railway.
The contract on construction of the crossing was signed by the two governments in 1991, the construction itself began in September 1993.
Stationary crossing to a greater extent needed for the Swedes, who in large numbers commute to work in Denmark.
And although it was logical to build a bridge at the narrowest point of the Strait where we crossed from Helsingborg to Elsinore (where the distance between the two sides three times less than that between Copenhagen and Malmo)
But, in this case, the path from Copenhagen to Stockholm would not have been so direct and Copenhagen international airport Kastrup would remain "irrelevant", and now he works for the whole of South Sweden).
Trains from Copenhagen airport and the bridge to malmö go in 20 minutes a day and 60 minutes at night.
Travel time from Copenhagen to malmö is about half an hour.
Now used by the Danish ER-IR4 and the Swedish X2000 .
Is scheduled to go on a specially built three-car trains Oeresundstog, there will be 27 pieces.
Across the bridge and airport go also far trains (InterRail, EuroCity) from Europe to Scandinavia.
Copenhagen Central station — poistine huge 13 passenger tracks 7 platform.
The station was built in 1911.
Station "Copenhagen Airport - Kastrup") is located under the ground, or rather into the recess over which a glass roof.
For freight trains built a bypass tunnel and a cargo terminal.
After the airport the train is coming some time in the recess, and then dives into the tunnel.
Part of the shore, where the portal of the tunnel, the washed into the sea at 430 m.
Road tunnel on the same level with the railway, to the side.
Length of the tunnel is 4050 m.
The tunnel emerges on the reclaimed artificial island Peberholm.
A long journey for him - 4055 M.
At the Eastern end of the island road on the embankment is taken up.
Starts West approach bridge (3014 m), gradually rising up.
Approximately 2/3 of the way on the bridge there passes the state boundary of the two kingdoms(to Denmark and Sweden was not land borders).
Followed by a Central High cable-stayed bridge navigation clearance (the height of the bridge for the passage of vessels) — 57 m ( ships on top seem small boats.
The length of the bridge is 1092 m.
Cable-stayed bridge enters East approach bridge (3739 m).
The track plan is a smooth S - shaped curve with radii on the approaches 12800m and 13900м and straight panel cable-stayed bridge.
The highest point of the vertical curve is located in the center of the main cable-stayed span of the bridge, its radius 30000м, the slope approaches towards Sweden is 1.25%, in the direction of Denmark is 1.5%.
Total transition length (excluding approaches) — 15 840 m, including the tunnel 3510 m, the bridge is 7845 meters, reclaimed areas — 4485 m.
The spans of the bridge consist of the main shipping passage through the fairway of Fontannen length of 490m and four side spans: two long and two 160m long 141m.
A significant length of the main span combined with the need to pass the train load moving at a speed up to 200km/h, determined the design of cable-stayed span of the most complex and critical part of the project.
The main span of this length on a 60m more main spans of the Japanese bridges Evacuazione and Chicisimo, which prior to may 1999 was a record-breaking cable-stayed span in the world, used for the passage of not only automotive, and heavy train loads.
During hurricanes and storms transition completely closed to traffic.
In Denmark there had been occasions when cars were literally blown bridge with a strong side wind, because on the main page www.oresundskonsortiet.com the sign: closed today bridge or in normal mode.
When leaving the city, we got hit by a little rain.
About an hour they wandered through the streets trying to go to the desired track.
Further our path lay in the depths of the island of Zealand to the town of hillerød which is a beautiful Renaissance castle.