Chapter in which the Baby enjoys the music, and Carlson jumps over boulders salmon river
But the Kid listened to him absently, he was dizzy from the sounds and smells of a summer evening.
He caught the scent of flowering lime trees on their streets, heard the knocking of heels on the pavement -- a lot of people were walking in this clear evening.
- "What a summer sound!" thought Baby.
The evening was quite quiet, and every noise from the neighboring houses came to him distinctly surprising: people chatted and shouted and sang and quarreled and laughed and cried -- all mixed up.
And none of them knew next to them sits a boy and listening to this interweaving of sounds, as in the real music.
This morning we especially do not hurry.
In my estimation, to get to this day was not very much and could afford to luxuriate a bit in sleeping bags.
We got up when the door of the tent he heard voices.
Came the Swedes and Swede for a morning swim. Apparently the residents of nearby houses.
We are politely as if did not notice. Glanced at and passed by.
Hardly anyone in our way tried to speak to us, the Swedes decided not to go into someone else's soul.
While we Packed and had Breakfast came another Northern nymph,dropped the robe and entered the warm water.
Rinat like a rose at first in a fighting stance, but then, apparently remembering a bad experience on the ferry and the language barrier, wilted.
And the nymph not giving us even a fleeting gaze went along the path back.
At about ten in the morning, we finally went on the road.
Passing by one of houses of Mionica we saw our utrennya nymph carefully painting with white paint the fence.
The fence and already white and shiny what is painted again.
Well - everyone has his / her time asreads need.
After a hospitable Mionica the road went through the fields with grazing cows - smooth and perfectly clean, their flanks were not stained with dirt through the skin to bleed edges , and swarms of flies did not beat animals with a fury worthy of a better cause.
Harvested hay in the meadows, as everywhere before, it was wrapped in foil.
True form was there not a cube and toroidal.
Pale blue neat point of bottled hay giant mushrooms-raincoats filled the fields out to the horizon.
The weather was like in the past days is very hot, but a strong headwind and dark clouds on the horizon clearly indicated the imminent change of weather.
This wind occurs when warm air mass collide with the coming cold.
The first big southern city on our way was Ronneby (Ronneby)
This is a very old and famous city. Along with Squid citywise the most beautiful and important city in the South of Sweden.
Was founded very long ago in the days of the Vikings, as demonstrated by the runic stones in the town of Bjorketorp (Bjorketorp) with inscriptions dated to the seventh century.
Now this is a very cozy and modern city.
Here for example is also has its own small Park computer center and Softcenter.
The Northern part of the Bergslagen has not suffered from a devastating fire swept the city in 1864.
It still retains intact all the old buildings of the city.
The biggest attraction is the Szczyrk Heliga Kors church built in year 1100.
We lounged around the city for some time, breathed his past and went on.
To Karlshamn pedal about two hours, enjoying the sights of rural Sweden.
Rinat usually pulled ahead and once again almost went in the wrong direction.
Periodically I would swear to this factfrom. As always in General.
On motion we were driving on secondary roads, winding around the highway E22 and occasionally crossing it under, then over.
As a result, the way our somewhat lengthened but we quietly rode almost alone overtake rare cars.
Drove Aroud (Aryd) and another city named Carla greeted us with their toy quiet streets .
The city I really liked. From it emanated some sort of perfect tranquility and peace.
The city arose on the site of a fishing village and shipyard Bodekull.
It is located in deep, well protected Bay at the mouth of the river Mien in the place where it flows into the Baltic Sea.
A long time ago this place, which later give the name Karlshamn, was an important seaport for the people living in the Western part of the area in Blekinge, South Smoland and North-East Cape.
Bodekull was a small village belonging to the district of Asarum.
Here you can find only peasants, fishermen and several customs servants.
All fees from customs and the port collected at the time meant the city of Ronneby and state.
The Swedish king in the 17th century came from the Palatinate in southern Germany.
His name was Karl X Gustav, and he was a cousin of his predecessor, Queen Kristina, who abdicated in 1654.
Thus he became the founder of a dynasty of Pfaltzgraff on the throne of Sweden.
Karl X Gustav held several wars during his short reign, and in one of these wars he defeated Fredrik III and Danes.
According to the Roskilde Peace Treaty, signed on 26 February 1658, Sweden received, among other things, the areas Cape, Blekinge, Halland and Bohuslеn.
And a small village became a town named in honor of king Carl Gustav.
Now Karlshamn is a small city on the Baltic coast city with a huge port.
Citizens recognize this and are proud of their port.
Located in the center of Szczyrk Carl Gustav is the main attraction of the city.
Its construction started in 1681 and ended in 1702.
Karlshamn is located in the South Lena Blekinge which is called the garden of Sweden.
There are very many lush forests (especially in the North) and the picturesque small Islands in the archipelago sea.
There are a lot of amazing sandy beaches and places for fishing.
In the forests Polga moose and other animals.
By the way winter moose bring some trouble to the residents.
The Swedish authorities are warning citizens in the autumn - winter period to keep away from moose, bloated, fermented berries.
Recently fallen into aggression drunk animal attacked a woman.
In the woods for the animals prepared for a feast of the rest of the summer berries, which turned into a strong alcoholic product.
Authorities fear that inflated alcohol moose pose a serious hazard for people.
In intoxicated moose is similar with his intellectual fellow - men.
Some animals, after eating fermented berries, be calm and quiet, while others go wild and be rowdy.
A year earlier, a drunken elk became a public nuisance.
Drunk elk have fallen right in the middle of the highway and formed long traffic jams on the road between the Swedish cities of Gothenburg and Hallingsjo.
The police had to pull a fallen animal from the road, and then they carried him to the nearest forest, where he managed to sober up.
In recent years, thanks to the efforts of the state to increase elk population in the past number grew tremendously.
Moose gratefully accepted the care of the country and began to breed like cockroaches.
The result has been the opposite problema - on roads, cases of accidents in the collision of cars with running avtotrassy moose.
We would probably would just shoot the animals or invented something related to their physical destruction.
But the Swedes would not be Sweden if I hadn't come up with a graceful turn saving the lives of God's creatures.
The fact that the trash smell for moose - wolf urine.
Moose fear and avoid wolves.
It was decided to spray the urine roadsides to frighten away cattle.
But here, too, it was not easy because first of all wolves as it is not in a hurry to get in line at the clinic with the bottles, and the second had often to repeat the procedure to renew the steamy smells.
The Swedes are called in the aid of the best minds of the state and those synthesized artificial urine in no way inferior in quality to the original product in nazalnam sense.
The urine was placed in a special vessel and were hung on trees along the highways in some of rasstoyanie.
But they say it ended in nothing - the Swedish moose fat Scandinavian grub Otel remarkable intellect and vividly realized that the wolves because of their natural imperfections are not able to climb trees in order to empty their bladder.
And the bait is not pecked.
And still continue to run out on the road bringing terror to the passing motorists.
And synthetic urine power still attached - its From 1995 began importing Kuwait.
They have there is similar problem with camels.
And some hope that the level of the mind the latter is slightly lower than the Swedish moose.
On the other hand this part of Sweden is it a border Outpost, after all, this side of Scandinavia are likely opponents of the state.
And therefore many of the Islands turned into a naval base of the army of Sweden.
Although the main Outpost is located in Karlskrona - there are also its fortifications.
Sweden great knowledgethe value attached to their armed forces.
She has even its own jet fighter, which is surprising because the market for such arms is dominated by major country producers - the U.S., Russia and France.
JAS-39 "Gripen" was developed by the Swedish firm "Saab — Scania" . The first prototype in February 1989, crashed in a test flight due to the imperfections of the automated control system at low speeds.
Tests of the second prototype began in may 1990.
Aircraft designed for air interception, air combat, performing drums and reconnaissance tasks.
The crew — one person (there are versions with two pilots).
It is made by the scheme "duck", has a relatively small weight and overall dimensions in comparison with fighter aircraft "Viggen" (the previous Swedish fighter).
Fully integrated avionics make fighter fully “programmable” aircraft.
Electronic system for the JAS 39 is designed with the expectation of subsequent modernization and operation of a fighter in the 21st century.
The cockpit of a fighter equipped with extensive observation window and three multifunction displays.
The aircraft is equipped with an integrated automated control system.
In case of failure of the electronic control system nasal wings are automatically reset, and the aircraft thanks to its excellent aerodynamic layout is automatically aligned. Control is transferred to the backup system.
In the event of engine failure, the electric energy generated air in a microturbine.
The aircraft is also equipped with backup batteries, energy which lasts for 10 minutes, which is sufficient for to.niya landing on a runway, if it is in sight.
Approximately 30 percent of structural elements of aircraft made of composite materials.
The power plant consists of a single turbojet engine RM12 (production of the Swedish company "Volvo flogmaster" )
Maximum speed at high altitude of about 2000 km/h.
Maximum takeoff weight — 8000 kg.
The built-in gun — 1х27 mm; pendant weapons class "air—land" — 2"Mavrick" and "air — air"—2"Sidewinder".
Fighter JAS-39 "Gripen" and created on its base modifications, replaced a previously in service of the Swedish air force aircraft J-35 "Draken" and JA-37 "Viggen".
The Czech Republic became the first Eastern European country to adopt the new Swedish fighter JAS39 "Gripen".
In accordance with the contract, the Czech Republic will receive a lease for 10 years 14 such aircraft, 12 single and two JAS39C "Sparky" JAS39D.
The Czech Republic bought the aircraft to replace the obsolete MIG-21 she inherited with the collapse of the Warsaw Pact.
Narrow cobbled streets, clean like you just built the houses, a riot of flowers and the aroma of coffee floating around.
We could not resist and decided to sit in one of the coffee shops.
The venue we chose is very good - across the street was a shop of old records and out softly sounded tango from ancient phonograph.
We drank fragrant cappuccino with a huge foamy chocolate head, bask in the sun and the fantastic feeling of unreality.
Say what you will, but we used to live.
Across the other side of the street slowly hobbled old woman of eighty years, leaning on a special trolley.
In the Swedish cities many older people (those who are no longer able to ride a bike) are used to move a truck.
On the one hand she has a basket for products , on the other a folding stool which mожно you can sit down resting his truck into something.
Sad to think that our pensioners sitting in their flats in multi-storey cells and not sosstoyanii to leave them until death. And the people here enjoy life to the last breath.
A sigh this can not happen so soon. The average life expectancy in Sweden is very high.
Coffee was expensive for a small Cup asked for 25 CZK (100 p)
But the atmosphere was such that even Rinat always regretting an extra penny on your stomach, did not resent the exorbitant spending.
After coffee we were drowsy and we, after sitting some time at table, decided not to go to the sea to watch the port , and to go further.
In Sweden, many beautiful places that we just physically was not able to see even what was in our way.
In the city we saw a lot of beautiful women's faces, which is not very typical for Sweden.
Although I suspect that some of them were probably Nasimi former fellow citizens.
After the lovely town of Karlshamn, fairly lifted us up, we drove into Morrum.
Which turned out to be the fishing Mecca of Sweden.
Through the city flows the river of the same name Morrum and quite large for the mouth of the salmon is caught here.
In connection with the pollution of the Baltic sea fish are becoming fewer and rivers in which he goes too.
Of the Scandinavian countries, the largest number of freshwater salmon found in Norway
In this country fish is regularly comes in more than 200 rivers, or almost a thousand, when you consider all the minor waterways where salmon and trout go during high tide
June and July are the best months for catching salmon and trout in Norway in such a rivers, like the famous Voss, Laerdal, Surna, Orcia, gaula, Stjordal, the Namsen and Viola
But in Finland and Sweden this is worse.
Only one river in Finland can still provide good salmon fishing is the river teno on the border with Norway.
Rivers flowing into the Baltic sea, were once rich in salmon, but is now blocked by hydropower.
Sweden can boast of many rivers with salmon and trout, but good catches are on the rivers Iman, Atran and Morrum.
City Morrum is the center of the fishing industry deployed in this small but turbulent river.
From the organization of this seemingly simple process, all kinds of rules and restrictions, I personally just fell apart.
We are on their bikes just went to the Central Museum on the river called "the World of salmon".
The world of Salmon, was opened on 1 may 1992, and contains many artifacts and photographs that tell about the wild river Morrum and history of fishing, from the past to the present day.
Here you can see, among other things, an aquarium with a length of 13 m. with many varieties of fish caught in the river Morrum, a diorama model of the life of the salmon from fry to adult fish, the map of the river with places for fishing.
Here is a cozy restaurant with a veranda for a Cup of coffee and a dish of fresh fish to enjoy the bubbling flow of the river.
While fishing, you can rent one of the cozy cottages are scattered along the river banks.
But the rules are catching the imagination of the Russians accustomed to the boundless freemen in this matter.
Regulated and restricted all that is possible.
And the methods of fishing and types of gear and size of fish.
Depending on the speed of the water flow, you can apply the hooks of certain sizes, to use a well-defined spinner and the nozzle.
All these parameters can be found in the office on the organization of fishing.
Catch a fish with a length less than 50 cm it has to be released.
If the fish is caught crochet not in the mouth or throat , such fish caught is considered incorrect and should also be released.
There are restrictions on the number of fish caught.
Naturally correctly the fish should be immediately put to death, so it does not feel unnecessary unjustified from the point of view of humanism torment.
All fish caught must be registered - weighted and obmeryan in the office.
Released fish must also be recorded.
This is just a small squeeze from a set of rules of a fisherman who wished to spend time with the bait and paid for it with my point of view, a dubious pleasure.
If the fisherman will violate at least one of these rules, or will something interfere with other fishermen his prey and pass to be confiscated without compensation, and the fisherman vyprovazhivaya the backside of the knee.
In the case of force majeure when fishing becomes impossible (e.g. for ice), the loss is also not kompensiruet.
We spent an hour around this place. Taking pictures on the rocks and the wooden bridges thrown across the raging stream.
It was essentially the first deep river we had seen in Sweden and at least some variety after a quiet marine waters of the coastal archipelago.
Rinat greatly cheered up.
And even the long-suffering, and lost the rod as if stirred to his backpack in anticipation of fish.
But alas - here she certainly wasn't going to get out of his cozy velvet case.
To Lukavica (Pukavik) we arrived quickly and immediately began to question where for the night.
The road on which we next day had to go to the port of Helsingborg, went into Peninsula right at the entrance to Pukavik.
But in the County the coast is overgrown with sedge and was totally unsuitable for tents.
And then we had to drive through town to get to the campsite indicated on the map.
This was a clear deviation from the route and on the next pageEBUSY day would have to go back a few kilometers.
But there was no way.
Camping near Lukavica was great.
Huge well-groomed territory and a traditional island with fine sand as the beach(perhaps especially such places choose)
Thought to put a tent on this island.
But unfortunately he was almost without trees and was clearly visible. Our arrogance was by that time a large, but not unlimited.
And because we are limited by the fact that Rinat scored drinking water in bottles from a local bathroom, entering it in a conventional way along with a legal visitor.
The building was then a very dense and houses lay very close to the camping site.
Nevertheless, we managed to find a little place on the shore, apparently served as a place for picnics for the residents of the houses.
Several huge logs laid crosswise and place under the fire, neatly lined with stones and covered at the top by a metal grill grate.
Tall grass and trees almost hid from our eyes private houses standing nearby.
After going on shore a little more, I realized that the best place for us in this day to find.
On popular among us patch played two girls of six or seven.
In contrast to the more adult Swedes, they haven't had time to learn English and explained I had with them at the aboriginal on the fingers, using all came to mind Arsenal gestures.
As a result, the maximum that I managed to find out this way - I know their names Magdalena and Mariela and their age.
Then came to the aid of the Swedish dictionary which Rinat before that time there was carried in your baggage.
It went slightly better, but was able to understand what girls live nearby and uchatsa in school, but now they have a vacation.
From the offered candy, they refused and ran home embarrassed.
And we theeat has deployed a field kitchen and a tent.
Further makes no sense to describe as the end of each day was on the thumb and tested scheme.
To eat and go to sleep.
However these procedures, we waited every day, with increasing desire and enjoy them in full.
Traveled: 84 miles
Pedal: 5h 40 min
The day temperature: +30C