Crimean charm of the Cape of Cullen - the Country of Ladonia
Chapter in which the Kid think he was in Ukraine, and a horse Carlson periodically rears
The kid does not exactly understand what it means to be a man in the Prime of life.
Maybe he is also a man in the Prime of life, but just doesn't know it yet?
So he asked cautiously:
- And at what age is the Prime of life?
- In any! - said Karlsson with a smile.
- In any, in any case, when talking about me.
I am a beautiful, intelligent and moderately well-fed man in the Prime of life!
First we tried to drive to the nature reserve along the shore, but the people we encountered towards the hot steel to prove to us what stories we can't fit down there.
After the Mall the topography of the Cape Cullen goes up dramatically and the trail along the coast winds past the stone.
Some sort of Swedish with enthusiasm worthy of a better application of what a long time was telling us about the road.
Ninety percent I did not understand, but also realized we had to after a brief hesitation we went back and tried my luck on a normal asphalt road.
It had a little popyhtet climbing serpentine up the mountain.
And we gave up on the plains of Sweden on climbs.
When appeared in the distance checkpoint at the entrance to the reserve we stopped.
Rinat became fervently to prove to me that not a penny will pay for the examination of rocks and trees and have to try to bypass the guards through the forest.
But something told me to try a more legitimate way to start and drove up to the booth I asked how much is the fare for two people with bikes.
The guard surprised, smiled and said a painfully familiar word - Free!
The fare was free.
It is time to abandon the Russian mentality and get used to this state of Affairs.
Alas communism this plan was built on another part of the land.
Rinat somewhat taken aback by the lack of prospects was opened to podobrat scout went with me to the famous Kullagatan Park reserve.
Along the Cape was a lovely paved road which was prohibited the movement of vehicles (cars left in the Parking lot at the entrance).
But since our transportation was all the way and honor we quietly moved on horseback.
From the Park entrance to the end of the Cape is several kilometres.
Numerous Golf courses on both sides of the road.
Many Hiking trails are marked with colored signs on trees.
Reserve Cullen is among the three most interesting Swedish attractions.
Very uncharacteristic for the rest of the Swedish nature, a variety of rare birds, plants and animals
To the discovery and description of this place of course had a hand Carl Linnaeus.
But seriously tourist, this place has become since 1860
And soon the small fishing village of mölle became a thriving wealthy city.
The sea around the Cape is rich with fish , there are also many crustaceans, snails and mussels.
In the forest there are rabbits and deer .
About 725 species of birds.
Of those, about 90 are nesting here.
Songbirds, finches, blackbirds, doves ,Buzzards and hawks - all not to enumerate .
After storms, unusual sea birds often arrive from the Atlantic for example - cormorants and Skuas.
On the slopes of Kullagatan vegetation varies enormously depending on which side it grows.
There are rare kinds of Keeled Garlic and Wild Marjoram.
And the plant varvial (lathyrus sphaericus - Latin name) grows tolKo is one other place in Sweden.
It's red flower like a Pansy.
Do not think that I such clever and erudite - in fact, I translated it from the Swedish website:)
But the most interesting is that this varival grows in the Crimea!
No wonder while I was at Colline I had a feeling of déjà vu
Painfully, everything here was like the Crimea, somewhere in the region of Karadag.
With one small difference. In my favorite Crimea, about each natural sights sat sullen faces of Caucasian nationality or unfriendly aunt and took a bribe for passage.
In Sudak is now not free to walk around the headland Alchak - there is now a paid reserve.
In Yalta are the Uchan-su don't just look - give me a coin .
Although in all fairness this waterfall can only in the spring, and in summer it turns into a miserable trickle of water is not standing five hryvnia.
What about a New Light and say nothing.
Understand that all this poverty.
And poverty does not have the breadth of soul and state thinking.
In Sweden septilin respect for nature, as we see, does not imply the installation of fences around forests.
On the contrary - possible access to the natural beauty open to all and completely free.
In the summer time Cullen visited by hundreds of thousands of tourists.
It would seem such a Horde of people will trample and tear all around as once it happened with the Crimea Karadag.
However, this is why it is not happening here.
With the onset of winter, the terrain becomes probably very lonely.
It is said that when one of the residents of the Swedish Islands asked how they cope with the anguish of this existence and what you do in the winter, he said -
"In the summer we breed and catch fish, and in winter when the fish are not caught then just multiply".
Cullen sharp tooth bit into the Kattegat sea (Kattegat) leaving the left side of eresund, and the right Bay Skalderviken (Skaldersviken)
And your upper part of the hill it seemed to cut through the clouds, making their undecided to spin somewhere in the distance.
It was evident that over Denmark and Sweden the cloudy sky and just above the Cape the sun shone brightly.
Upon reaching the end of the asphalt track, we were on the very edge of the Swedish land.
Edge stopped in the sea rocky ledges overgrown with rare bushes and grass.
At the tip of Cullen is the most powerful in Sweden, the lighthouse.
It is located 78.5 meters above sea level and its light is visible at a distance of 50 km
This is important considering that marine traffic in this place is very intense.
The current lighthouse, designed by Swedish architect Magnus Dahlander from Dalarna in 1898 - so it's a little more than 100 years.
However, before that there was a guiding light for sailors. The lighthouse is built of granite and brick.
It has three large lenses, which rotate four times a minute and give three flashes when rotated.
The lens was invented by Fresnel and delivered to the lighthouse in 1900
The total cost of the construction of the lighthouse was 100 922 riksdaler, of which 60,000 was the price of only one lens .
We Rinat decided to drive as close to the cliff.
And then the rocinante, my friend began to buck.
It seemed the climb to the lighthouse on the rocks was simple, but the hybrid Rinat was time to get up on its hind legs.
That is to be filled up on the rear wheel.
Weighted backpack tail of his bike and tired arms, was unable to cope with the temper of the German people.
Finally Rinat coped with the task and tamed the exuberant nature of the bike.
The view from the lighthouse was opened just fantastic - boundless sea and far below the roaring of the waves.
A strong piercing wind. Despite the sun in a minute wholeimage bodiesabout to the bone.
This I what I mean is vividly that the efforts of our staff photographer I have long depicted the model, taking various effective poses. What happened - you be the judge.
Then I removed it and he angrily scolded me that I was not able to capture the sublime nature in the Prime of life.
Finally ugomonivshis and implementing a creative impulse, Rinat followed me to the opposite shore of the Cape.
There almost on the edge were installed essential wooden tables at one of which we were a little to starve the worms in our stomachs.
Here the muzzle is not so strong and we are quite comfortable lunch.
For good in this wonderful place we have to leave the bikes and climb on foot through forests and rocks.
The more that there is something to watch not only from the point of view of nature.
It turns out we were very close with a neighboring state in which the kilometer away from its borders.
This state is called Ladonia.
And is a according to the intent of its Creator the piece of land Cape of Cullen, which gained independence from the Swedish throne.
A kind of Vatican of the Scandinavian spill.
Ladonia was founded June 2, 1996.
It takes up a whole square kilometer in the reserve.
The founder of the state within a state artist and architect Lars Vilks.
In Ladonia, there are two city - the capital of Nimis and Arx.
In fact it is the installation (the unthinkable and indefinite forms of the sculptures), built by the founder of the state and the current state Secretary Lars Vilks.
Can't say what motivated this man - whether the desire to Express themselves, whether to annoy the authorities.
And indeed all artists are a little bit off.
In General, he chose a secluded place - Northarnow extremity Cullen.
Place there at the time when he started was pretty wild and he was building his creations for two years before it was discovered.
In 1982 the government decided to eliminate unauthorized buildings.
Wilkes filed them in court, but lost and was fined.
But he managed and sold the piece. the new York artist Christo.
And the government could not infringe on private foreign property.
All this lasted quite a long time and while the court pulled bagpipes Wilkes continued to build Nimis.
It plagued him 25 tons of logs. And by the end of the construction consisted of towers 15 meters in height and stair length of 100 meters.
It was an impressive sculpture and she was in the process of its construction of thousands of visitors who came down to see the creature.
In 1985, unknown persons set fire to wooden architecture of Wilkes and 15 tons of wooden structures burned down.
But the tireless artist has restored and further expanded.
By 1996, Nimis already weighed 70 tons.
In 1991 Vilks started another project near Nimis and called it Arx (lat. "fortress").
This time he used concrete and stones.
The concrete he wore down in the backpack.
The authorities also did not give up and sentenced a new sculpture Wilks to unconditional elimination, as the master himself to another penalty. Tricky Wilkes, in turn, sold Arx three hundred people.
After 1995 everything has calmed down for a while.
The area management tired to fight with a stubborn installer and referred the question to the landowner.
Tired of fighting with people who do not understand art, Lars announced that he decided to put his creative energies into the creation of an independent and sovereign state of Ladonia.
Now in this country not only has a Regent and a dozen Ministers from the Minister of Finance to Minister of the Internet, but also has its own aristocracy (the title is $ 12), and about six thousand subjects.
On the website of the country there is a simple form, filling which you can easily become a citizen of Ladonia, which gives the right every year to come to Cullen.
The creation of the country gave new meaning to the sculptures - they became national monuments.
In 1999, the inspiration is again illuminated Lars and he built Omfalos (it has been named in honor of a small sculpture in the temple at Delphi(Greece), symbolizing the center of the world)
Omfalos was of stone and stood at 1.6 meters.
Then the same thing happened. The district court decided to remove the sculpture
Wilkes offered to eliminate her and destroy 10 December 2001 on the day of the 100th anniversary of the Nobel prize.
The authorities took an independent decision, but did not say about it to Wilkes.
And he meanwhile sold Omfalos another artist Ernst Billgren.
Local authorities in improvising cunning drove the crane the day before the December 10 and dismantled stone icicle.
Vposledsvii Wilkes again appealed to the authorities for permission to build on the site of the remote Omfalosa memorial to his memory.
Authorities have given permission but with the condition that the monument was not above 8 inches.
Wilkes did everything exactly and the memorial was opened on 27 February 2002.
But in General, despite the busy fighting of the parties to this tragi-Comedy is little known outside of Sweden until in March 2005, three thousand Pakistanis are not asked for citizenship of Ladonia, paradeisos with citizenship to place of residence and work in Sweden.
Unfortunately Wilkes was forced to cool their immigrant fervor.
Because Ladonia is a virtual state.
A free country for the creative mind, which is a burden to mediocrity zorganizowanej Swedish everyday life.
Very similar to the Danish Christiania in miniature isn't it?:)
But being two steps away from the Ladonia we Rinat did not know about its existence.
Because there are no pointers there.r /> I read about this country invented only after returning home.
It was nearing evening, and as if we was not good and freely in the reserve we had to go on.
Although the night here, in principle it would be possible. The reserve is a lot of hiding places, and the fact that the Swedish authorities two years have not seen what he was doing Wilkes speaks for itself
Cullen left them we headed along its Northern shore in the direction of Angelholm.
By absolutely idyllic towns and sparsely populated villages.
In the area of Jonstorp again a lot of wind power plants.
Them here God himself commanded to build such a strong wind blowing.
I do not remember I spoke or not - in Sweden there is a planned transition to the wind industry.
Close existing nuclear plants and build windmills.
At first glance it is not profitable because the energy from the turbines is sort of expensive.
But the fact is that economists and politicians are certainly disingenuous when they say that nuclear energy is the cheapest to date. And here's why.
The fact that the calculations of the cost of nuclear plants is NOT CONSIDERED a potential hazard to the environment and subsequent costs for disposal of spent nuclear fuel!
But if we take into account damage to the environment for disposal, the cost of nuclear electricity may at times exceed current estimates.
So, it shows that nature in a penny does not appreciate - hence a conscious bluff.
In light of this policy of the authorities of Sweden seems the height of responsibility and vision.
The electricity produced by the wind.
Home is mostly heated with wood.
The woods are cut down of course , but also immediately put a new one on this place.
Then of course the Swedes helps the mild climate of Scandinavia due to the warm Gulf stream.
It was getting dark and getting cool.
I would even say chilly. My body was periodically covered with goosebumps.
The sun was going down and with it went the life-giving onesPLO.
But the entire coast was lined with houses and it seemed nowhere to Apple to fall.
But Providence again came out to meet us.
After Utvalinge we saw the bridge over the railway.
And when he entered he accidentally noticed the inconspicuous side road to the left going deeper into the forest.
At the turn of the road stood the gate. We blagopoluchno drove around it and went deeper into the thicket.
The forest here was notable.
Tall, thick trees immediately plunged us into the twilight. Became even as it is uncomfortable.
The air was full of wet fumes and the smell of pine needles and rotten leaves.
The track was very long with a kilometer.
Gradually the trees had been getting shallower and thinned.
And here dawned the light and we went to the sea.
Our delight knew no bounds.
There was not a soul around.
Only a long deserted beach and sand dunes, small dunes formed by sea winds and separates the beach from advancing to him a coniferous forest.
Rinat immediately said that will sleep by the sea.
But after a few moments abandoned this idea.
Due to the wind.
We would not have to sleep - our tent if not blown, it would be pretty battered.
And in my memory was still fresh memories of a restless night in the Crimea near Koktebel when we unsuccessfully camped on the line of the wind rose.
Place behind the dunes at the edge of the forest under a small Christmas tree was the best choice.
It was getting dark and far to the North appeared a yellow haze of city lights.
Angelholm lived its life, unaware that not far from him two men from Bashkortostan (whose existence, I think. few people in Sweden heard) pounded the sand with their simple belongings.
It was quiet and nothing prevented us to make this evening brought to perfection exercise.
g>Passed: 81 km
Pedal: 5,3 h
The day temperature: +18..+20 ° C