Fell on the tail
Chapter in which the boss and Bethan become leaders, and Carlson analyzes the exhaust
- ..A"strange unidentified flying object over Stockholm. Eyewitnesses report that has been recently and repeatedly seen in the area Vasastan a flying object resembling in appearance a small beer keg. He makes sounds similar to the roar of the engine. It has been suggested that this is a foreign spy satellite launched into airspace for reconnaissance purposes.
Who will reveal the mystery of the flying Vasastan?"...
Because when it comes to loading the ferry, we stopped first,then when unloading we had to wait until sabaragamuwa our bikes cars and trucks do not disperse.
Inside the ferry, they are parked so tightly that sometimes, between two adjacent machines can be pushed only hand.
We spent some time to find the way to our bikes, squeezing past the cabins.
Efficient unloading mechanism works quickly and twenty minutes later the four travelers were able to get to the light of God.
Here and Sweden. Finally we reached the starting point of our hike.
Obeying the strokes of the controllers pulled away from the dock and were about the building of the Stockholm terminal.
It was very hot.
I thought - wow what is the climate in Northern Europe.
Feeling a little woozy from the abundance of impressions. The brain is like a CPU, does not have time to handle several jobs at once.
In the second half of the first Millennium the current situation in Central Sweden, existed the tribes of svealand and Yotov.
The first lived on the shores of lake mällaren, the second — to the South and West.
And, as is typical of intelligent beings on our planet for centuries and to this day, these tribes periodically cut each other into mincemeat.
The first prevailed.
Now both those and others are captured in the title areas of SVealand and Gotland.
Sweden - Svealand Sverige or, — translates literally as "sveyskoy Reich" and "land sveev"
A symbol of the country is mother Svea.
The mother of all Swedes. Her sculpture can for example see at the top of Parliament-the Riksdag.
(I feel an analogy with the German Reichstag?)
At the top of the facade is a sculptural group - is Mother Svea, at her feet the male figure, the women's Vigilance and Prudence.
Below the four estates: nobility, clergy, townspeople and peasants.
The culture of the Vikings (from the Scandinavian vik, the "Slivnica"), polytheism around the figure of Óðinn and human sacrifice originated in Scandinavia in the ninth century.
The next two centuries peaked the boats of the Vikings were done across the Atlantic and the Mediterranean : from Iran to the future of America.
Those Vikings that settled down in the East (Vikings of Svea), different business rather than a bellicose temper.
And,for example, has established trade relations with Byzantium (and Byzantium — the state in Russia).
In the common version of the name "Rus" — not that other, as adapted from the Finnish ruotsi ("rower"), the so - called wild Finns landed on the shores of its neighbors.
But to this day in Finnish Sweden is called Ruotsi. It turns out Sweden is almost the same as Russia!
Is it because we are so close to this country?:)
Is it because all the time it takes us to Sweden up as a model of social organization?
Now, the Kingdom of Sweden occupies the greater part of the Scandinavian Peninsula.
The country is elongated from North to South for 1,500 km, and 1/7 of it is located beyond the Arctic circle.
Bordered on the West by Norway, on the North-East of Finland.
In the East it is washed by the Baltic sea and the Gulf of Bothnia, in the South and South-West by the Straits of Kattegat and Skagerrak.
The head of state since 1973 is king Carl XVI Gustaf .
The head of government from 1996 year, Prime Minister Goran Persson.
In 1634, Stockholm was officially proclaimed the capital.
The city is built on 14 Islands between the Gulf of the Baltic sea Saltsjоn and lake mällaren (Mаlaren): to the left of the sluices the water is fresh, right — salty.
Because of this, the capital of Sweden is called "Beauty on water".
In the literal translation of Stockholm means "log island" - apparently in the late times there was a big wooden fortress.
The first mention of Stockholm belongs to 1252, and from the XIII century the city was the permanent residence of the Swedish kings .
Stockholm began to form around the current Gamla Stan (Gamla stan) - the Old town.
He is on the island Stadsholmen, which separates the lake mällaren from the Baltic.
The city is quite large in area - 200 km2.
Consists of five main districts of Gamla stan, Norrmalm, Vasastan, Kungsholmen, Ostermalm, Sodermalm and Djurgarden.
Despite the fact that it is a major industrial centre with a population of more than 1 600 000 people (in a Large Stockholm suburbs) and about 700,000 in the heart of Stockholm, the streets and parks of the city is surprisingly clean, and right in the centre you can swim and fish.
Magnificent buildings interspersed with bridges and green oases.
But the special charm of the bears of the Old town, the Royal Palace, the medieval architecture, narrow streets , fantastic squares , myriad of tourist shops and cafes.
It is possible to walk all day.
Seeing the medieval Gamla Stan, come running right in headlong and immediately get lost.
To climb up the narrowest staircase in town lane Morten Trotzig (Chiron about a meter), to squeeze through the crowd on the trade Vasterlanggattan breathe on the quietest General, and then drink hot chocolate in the cafe on the square Sturtorjet not to late to shift of the guard at noon at the Royal Palace.
Order salmon Riche or Sturehof, on top of Gondolen or ancient Den Gyldene Freden.
Wander through the many stalls where the long-nosed immigrants from the East peddling trinkets and Souvenirs.
Or sit on the waterfront of the island of Riddarholmen with a basket of food and chuvstvovat a real Swede on the picnic.
At the end to read the last crown with the students in a cafe or restaurant String Pelikan.
It is a pity that we were on bicycles and were in a hurry that day.
Right - Stockholm is not vanity.
After Gamla Stan, we moved to Norrmalm.
Misha was our guide. In Stockholm, he was not the first time.
Even though Ulrika was born in Sweden, his capital saw for the first time.
After the Sergelstorg square with a beautiful fountain in the middle, the cavalcade stopped at the grocery store Netto.
Is the network cheap by Swedish standards, the Danish grocery store like our "Pyaterochka".
Ulrike stayed with the bikes and the men went to get food.
Mike introduced us to the product names. Not knowing the Swedish language, it is possible to buy something not that.
In "Netto" goods are really cheaper than in other shops in Sweden .
But the products are mildly not selected and the choice is not too large.
When we are a little settled and started to score a basket in the first role out Rinat.
He busily otbrakovki all small packages.
- Better to buy a big pack for 20, - CZK, than two small for 12.
And may we have this for two weeks but we'll save on the currency.- he reasoned.
By the way, once taken according to this principle killogramovy packaging of nuts and uneaten came to the end in Russia.
At first, watching and saving on everything, we took very little food.
Only bread, which by the way is very expensive, milk or yogurt and somesome canned fish or meat. Milk in Sweden is mainly low-fat a maximum of 3%.
Yogurt called fil (fil) and absolutely does not taste like our liquid water of some sort.
But the truth is, there are "Russian yogurt" - red sold in Tetra Pak cartons with a picture of the Kremlin.
The Kremlin is this more like a mosque but it does not matter:)
The taste of the drink is similar to kefir, but it is not it.
A couple of times he took because cheap (10-11 crown yeah 40 rubles), but then switched to yogurt.
The benefit of their dozens of varieties with different fat content, they are sold in liter bags c Unscrew the caps.
Yummy unusual. Are from 13 to 30 euros.
We were very lucky at first, we were friends like Michael and Ulrika.
It turned out that we got the personal tour guides and translators.
Without them we would have a much harder.
But our way is only partially matched and it was necessary to provide our Autonomous movement.
And, as you probably guessed, we are talking about maps.
Therefore, the Central bookstore,the largest in Sweden,was our next stop.
The store is really huge and is located on several floors of an old building in the center of the Rival.
Books for every taste. In Swedish and English.
The most prominent place ,like everywhere it seems in the world - Dаn Brown (Da Vinci, Coden).
Many Swedish writers of whom I have never even heard of, because Russian language is almost not translate them.
Books in Sweden are very expensive. For example the cheapest ciucca small format pocket-book, in paperback, of those that read in the train or on the beach costs 100 CZK (400 R).
Can you guess how many there are other more thick and well decorated.
Rinat searched the literature for the Swedish national sculpture.
Found nothing, although downloaded store personnel work almost half an hour.
However even if I found, I don't think an album with coloured illustrations for CZK 2000 (8000 R) could easily have been obtained for the purse and the conscience to buy.
Well, the card we bought, and later, in a specialty store.
Card in Sweden to be extremely detailed.
There is a huge thick atlases, there are cards-clamshell and cards-magazines.
It was hard to choose. But finally I settled on a series of maps with a scale of 2.5 km.
They covered all of Sweden, but our journey had only three.
Each cost 99 CZK.
Mike bought a map of the Eastern coast of Sweden. It was even a primary route.
Having traveled a little more modern Stockholm we taxied to the train station .
Mike remembered that there is the Internet. We had to send news home.
There is auto - throw 2 Euros or 20 kroner into the slot and the machine issues a check with a typed username and password.
Moreover, the device worked as it is unstable.
We were lucky,but after we a few people a check is not issued, and the money eaten.
It was interesting to watch how all react differently.
The young Swede just laughed and went back home, and gloomy man long kicked the stand and were looking for staff and then cussed.
We asked him - are you Russian? what he through clenched teeth: - I am not. I the Latvian!
More to talk to us would not. What to do - chauvinist:)
Linger in the capital, we could no longer. The time was about three in the afternoon.
We had to postpone the inspection of the city on the last day of our trek, because according to plan we should be back in Stockholm after 30 days.
The next two hours I remember vaguely.
They were devoted to leave their city in the right direction.
Without MiShea, we certainly would have left much more time for it.
Our Navigator was stopped to consult the map.
However, even this did not always work and several times we had to cut circles, then, toy the yards of suburban settlements, by countless paths, winding like snakes.
Bike paths in Sweden there are three types.
First- as part of the sidewalk.
Where sidewalks are wide enough - two-thirds is given to cyclists, what is the appropriate signs as on the pavement, and road signs.
Secondly, as part of the pavement. Especially in the city where the streets are narrow and the sidewalks even less.
Moreover, in this case, cyclists do not interfere with passers-by to visit countless shops and cafes, which are so richly Packed with all European cities.
Thirdly - as a separate narrow paved (or dirt) track, which runs near highways.
This bike path can go parallel to the highway, and maybe walked away from her, climbing into the woods or heading to any beautiful place.
Along the entire Eastern part of Sweden from Stockholm to malmö are some of the most popular cycle routes.
They are carefully marked with colored signs with the name of the route and direction of travel.
Adhering to one of them under the black plate Cykelsparet we moved to the South.
A great shock was the attitude of motorists.
Hard to get used to the much emphasized respectful behavior.
Not only that, they missed us, barely seeing from afar, but many greeted, waving her hands and smiling.
Raced on the highway a huge trailer, and we drove across to him velodrome.
See us 50 meters to the highway, the driver gave on the brakes, stopped the huge car and waited patiently for a few minutes until we get to the road and cross it.
Seeing such a thing, I unwittingly became faster to pedal ,not to force him to wait long uncomfortable still like it:)
But it only at first.
Then our psychology has changed dramatically.
We finally penetrated the Swedish General idea - the cyclist is the main member of the movement.
He is always right and don't have to think about how and where to go.
Everything is already thought out and designed for it.
All other members of the movement, only the surroundings of the remnants of the gasoline of the past.
And thus are in an inferior position.
Just bred for the last century, nowhere to put them and that the authorities have to put up with their presence, strongly limiting the freedom of movement, and trying to make the fact of owning a car business expensive and unattractive.
By the way benzinchik they have (11 CZK) 40 ruble per liter for our money.
Here for example one of the European laws that are going to take.
I believe that Sweden will be one of the first who will support it:
Under this law, drivers will be required to pay compensation to cyclists regardless of who is guilty in road accident.
According to opponents of this law, it will automatically raise the cost of car insurance for $80-100.
The debate on this question appointed by the European Parliament in the autumn.
A strong protest against the adoption of such a law was expressed by the UK, however, if most of EU countries it will, then the British will have to accept.
A full package of laws aims to unify the rules across Europe and to give priority rights to those who do not pollute the environment, i.e. cyclists.
Environmental problems most of us are perceived in Russia as something very remote and abstract.
In fact, you go stop that every year is gaining more momentum the car industry humanquality.
What the owner of the factory agrees to cover it up due to some sort of emissions if it makes a profit?!
What the car owner refuses the car for environmental reasons?!
But it appears, by estimates of ecologists, the proportion of city pollution from industrial enterprises is only 30%.
70% of air pollution produced by road transport.
We all breathe it , get sick and die before their time, but the authorities have not even scratched ,at least to change the situation.
I'm not talking about car cleanliness standards Euro-3, 4 which we only promise to put through God knows how many years.
But there are quite simple measures associated with restriction of movement in the center and the popularization of the Bicycle.
But the Russian understanding of a cyclist's or athlete, or a teenager, or a few kind and cash-strapped citizen.
In Western Europe and of course Sweden largely for environmental reasons in most cities, downtown is made a pedestrian zone.
Along with all this there is an effective Parking system.
Paid Parking is also a method of regulating the flow of traffic.
In the big cities in the Central district, many people prefer to travel without a car as Parking in the centre is not cheap.
There is also a parallel promotion of Cycling and pedestrian traffic.
In Sweden, Bicycle traffic is given special attention.
While public opinion is a powerful influence of using the social advertising .
In Sweden you can be rich and poor, to live in the capital and in the middle of nowhere, but not having a bike is tantamount to treason.
Pensioners and schoolchildren, Housewives and businessmen with ease go across the country, regardless of distance and weather.
How many times have we later watched the old woman - the divine dandelion, cheerfully jumping on their bikes.
And in the cold and pouring rain when we Rinat Khave utilise in their jackets, the Swedes safely ride in t-shirts with short sleeves.
The bike path took us past one of the largest hospitals of emergency medical service in Sweden - Huddinge sjukhuslocated in the town of Huddinge.
It is interesting that in one place I had to go through the tunnel under the building of the hospital, past the place where they take the sick with machines.
And appropriate inscription : Olycksfall och akut sjuka means something like "Accidents and need emergency".
We fortunately do not need it yet.
Finally after seemed like endless wandering through the suburbs of Stockholm, our road had a very rural appearance.
The nature around was just stunning.
It would seem nothing special it was not.
Pine forests and fields and perfectly flat road.
But crystal air is filled with aromas of herbs and absolute purity gave the landscape a kind of unreality.
Sometimes even the thought that all this wasn't real and that this is some sort of hoax.
However, I was met by some of universal peace and a wave of joy and delight rises from the depths of the soul literally overwhelmed from head to toe.
I've heard that Sweden is the safest country in Europe.
But only now realized that this same security can be simple to feel.
It is spilling out everywhere.
And the feeling it creates ,first of all, people living in this country.
Dads walking with strollers, couples kissing on benches in the squares, girls, chatting over a Cup of cappuccino, comely smiling woman.
And not a single gloomy face.
The warmth and complete lack of hidden aggression , so characteristic of our countrymen.
A quiet Church cemetery, kids on skateboards and roller skates, the red geraniums on the balconies of houses, manicured pastures, lovely villages, rolling green hills, surrounded by lakes and countless people on bikes at the meeting who greeted us with a smile and wosaam "Hey" - that is, perhaps, the most typical paintings of Swedish idyll that deposited in the memory.
Mike drew our attention to the red color of Swedish wooden houses.
Turns out it's the national color, derived using the so-called falenskoe paint.
The legend tells that in ancient times in Sweden, somewhere in the area of Falun, there was a white goat came home smeared in something red and yellow.
The next day the people went for the goat and found a big mountain that had lots of copper ore.
In these parts and founded the firm Stora, which as a side product during extraction of copper ore began to produce red pigment for paint.
We are talking about a natural pigment with a high content of silicic acid.
The first written mention of it Dating to 1616.
Today, instead of the mountain there is a big hole, and copper ore is long gone, but the pigment is produced, and the recipe is the same as three hundred years ago.
The red color was a symbol of status.
Swedish merchants painted their houses in red, mimicking the red-brick houses.
Same paint I painted houses of the Swedish kings.
In the eighteenth century discovered that the paint from Falun protects the tree, and it is used all over Sweden where she today is a blockbuster.
Paint Faluner Rot (Swedish red) impregnates the wood and even in such a harsh climate as in Sweden, wood is preserved for a long time in good condition.
Seeing her scaly texture, it can be called mud paint.
It changes colors depending on the weather.
In dry weather paint – bright red, crude – significantly darkens.
The Swedes claim that their paint is "live".
Galonska paint does not form on the wood surface of the film and allow him to breathe.
In addition, it is self-cleaning - every time the rain washes away the dust from it and other sugrasena, and then surface again shining primordial purity.
Moreover, it is half the price of other paints for wood.
The stability of the paint from the windward side – about 5 years downwind up to 10 years.
The paint is not flaking off and it just updated.
It does not require a solvent.
It is possible to paint all unplaned boards as dry and ashen from time to time, as well as old previously painted with same paint.
To planed the boards, and previously colored acrylic or oil paint, Swedish red paint does not stick.
Upon reaching a fork in the road, we collectively decided not to go through the city of Tumba (Tumba), and go around the side past a small lake Getaran. The movement is almost nothing.
Rare car would overtake us.
To go - a real pleasure, probably somewhere on the level of physiology.
Yellow fields are burning fire, blooming canola.
Rape — oilseed and fodder culture of the cabbage family.
It is cultivated since time immemorial, in the culture he's known for four millennia BC.
By mid XIX century, rape, along with other cruciferous oilseeds (a cress and mustard) were in Europe fairly widespread culture.
This relatively wide spread by this time the culture of rape is due to the use of its oil for technical purposes in the strongly growing due to the overall industrial development the demand for technical oils.
Young oil industry had not yet been able to meet this demand, and the culture of rape, appeared in the European agro-climatic conditions one of the most productive oil plants, received a large development.
As a result of higher gasoline prices, sharply increased the popularity of diesel fuel made from rapeseed - the demand already exceeds the supply.
Perhaps the only difference of this type of fuel from conventional - petroleumth - diesel is that for wagon running on vegetable fuel wafting smell of fried potatoes.
And soy and rapeseed oil used in such cases, are used as fuel for reasons of economy, because they are cheaper than environmental diesel fuel.
In addition, in contrast, can be stored virtually anywhere without harming nature.
In addition, vegetative fuels have a greater energy output.
And of course rape make margarine.
In the production of the fatty part of margarine used canola oil.
In the fat part introduces soluble in fats vitamins a and D, enriching the product and necessary for the health of the people of the Northern regions, where so little of the sun.
Near lake Heteren is a recreational Park of Lida.
Wooden houses, bungalows, small dock for fishing, sheds, neatly cut and stacked firewood, and houses the toilets.
Probably superfluous to say that the toilets there these super clean and super modern:)
With a mean log-hut, and inside everything is white and Packed with technical equipment to facilitate the administration of natural needs.
And all for free.
We got there some water in our tanks.
Swedish tap water is another story.
Amazingly clean and tasty.
It is safe to drink without boiling.
It saved us a lot of money in the campaign because water in bottles in Sweden are quite expensive.
Looking ahead to say that a month of camping we have never had nikakih problems with the stomach and digestion.
Problems were only with the how to force yourself to eat less and as a consequence needlessly not to terrorize the Swedish privy and nature.
After the Park the track becomes quite forest , but not less thane flat and rolled without a single potholes or pits.
Along its length every five hundred meters are high plastic boxes on wheels with tucked inside garbage bags.
A shady pine forest blew a saving coolness our isuchenie the scorching sun of the body.
And absolutely do not want to rush anywhere, but to go slowly on the machine pedal, and just enjoy pristine natural beauty.
Soon the track emerges from the forest and rests on the motorway in Varstu (Varsta).
Facing the highway is a huge stand with maps of the surrounding areas.
These stands are very characteristic for Sweden and great easy movement and orientation in case if you don't have the personal card.
When driving on the highway, for 500 m to such flaps is a sign of "i"(info).
Some stands even highlighted cycle routes.
Well, the information booth said that we are in the territory of the commune of Botkyrka (Botkyrka).
Municipality is a unit of administrative division .
All Sweden is divided into 21 County — len (lan), which in turn are divided into districts commune.
Lena each have their own Board (lansstyrelse), which is appointed by the government of Sweden and is his representative and a representative of the Parliament — Riksdag.
In addition, each Lena is the local government body, elected County — Landsting (landsting).
Our way lay through a small town Sebbl(Sibble) to the Bank of Hammerford. Where we have successfully rolled somewhere in an hour.
It was late afternoon. The sun was setting.
And although we almost caught the White nights and it was getting dark after 24:00 should have thought about the bed.
Fatigue has already made itself felt, although passed on the first day not so much.
I always lagged behind my companions, taking pictures proteaemye beauty.
One birdhouse squirrel distracted me for five minutes.
Caught up with them at the coast, where there was a ferry crossing from the mainland to the island Morko (Morko).
Internal ferries in Sweden absolutely free.
Logic here is this - local authorities should ensure a proper road to all its citizens.
And if she has to cross the water surface, there must be a bridge.
If the bridge is not built ,it means power at the expense of the Treasury are required to arrange for the ferry.
The ferry transports cars and people. Runs continuously.
On protivopoloznom the shore was visible the lock of Horningsham(Horningsholm) and the remains of coastal fortifications from the great Northern war.
The great Northern war (1700-1721) war between Sweden and the Nordic Union (Russia, Saxony, Poland, Denmark) for hegemony In the Baltic.
Russia tried to seize the Baltic coast.
Her main opponent in this struggle was Sweden, whose territory extended to Livonia, Finland and Estonia, and also in the former Russian possessions — Izhora lands and Karelia
After the defeat at Narva (1700) Peter I reorganized the army, created a Baltic fleet.
In July 1717 he was landing on the island of Gotland, and on land the Russian army reached luleå.
At this time, apparently, Russian troops attacked the fortifications on the island Marco.
The Swedes were defeated and retreated ,abandoning the cannon.
Crossing to the island we found on the shore of a large camping site and a little distance of the yacht club.
Mike struggled to get up in the campground, but we managed to get the first and last time to go a little further.
We taxied to the forest and perfectly situated among the trees. Absolutely free.
The reward was a lovely dinner of buckwheat with prunes and Swedish ham and tea with honey (taken from home).
Even sudsapda girl Ulrika appreciated the Russian mess:)
Passed: 75 km
Pedal: 4h 48 min
The day temperature: +27C