Aliens, lice and cheese

Traveled: 90 km


... Store fresh, brand-new, it's all there.
One of the country's largest supermarket chains.
Stalls with goods go beyond the horizon, in the presence and Parma ham with a price of few thousand crowns per kilo, and cheeses the size of a house, probably a great team of dedicated staff, where each friend is ready to come to the rescue, and puts in the work soul.
In a large supermarket cheese as far as the eye.
To choose, of course, difficult.

I was awakened by the creaking of oars. Local fisherman out on a boat on the fjord. As we gradually woke up and was going he calmly threw a rod a couple of dozen meters from the shore. On the shore then I looked at his catch. Caught one big fish it limited. He said that on lunch, it's enough for today. Parasitolgy minimalism. In this there is something. To catch as much as needed to eat. Unusually warm for these latitudes the climate due to warm Gulf stream.
Due to the large amount of thermal energy the Gulf stream is a "heating" of Western and Northern Europe.
Its heat capacity is about 1.4 petawatts, which corresponds to a power of one million nuclear power plants.

North of 50 ° Northern latitude in Canada begins tundra, where it survives only the reindeer and Buffalo, and in Norway the picture thanks to the Gulf stream is quite different.
There are deciduous forests and lush meadows, good conditions for agriculture and livestock.

The cooled flow of the Gulf stream returns to the South,closing the pipeline flow
On this conveyor belt strongly influenced by the salinity of ocean water,which varies considerably due to the melting of ice in Greenland and increase the flow of fresh water brought by the Siberian rivers.
Therefore, global warming may result in the fact that Northern Europe will freeze.
And more than anyone will not have as comfortable ride along the Atlantic coast on the bike at the same time enjoying the warmth and the Northern vegetation.

And then our eyes with the height of the banks opened several rounds of artificial origin located on the water of the fjord.
So for the first time we saw being done in Norway aquaculture.
That is, the cultivation of valuable fish species in captivity in special mesh cages.

Norway together with China - the world leader in the field of artificial fish breeding.
The coast is literally dotted with fish farms and it is strange that we saw them only at the end of the campaign.
More than 40% of the Norwegian export of seafood is produced by aquaculture.
Of farmed fish, the most famous export product is the Norwegian salmon, which is prized for its appetizing color and taste.

But few people know that this color is not natural.
There is a common belief that the color pink meat salmon abclofen the fact that they eat shrimps. In fact , to give salmon flesh a nice pink color (I'm sure many ate delicious Norwegian salmon sold in our stores in the frozen or chilled) manufacturers add to food a dietary Supplement canthaxanthin.
This substance adds in sunblock to the skin was more brown.
So here this Supplement, as it turned out, is deposited in the retina and can lead to significant vision loss.
Manufacturers of fish are silent about it. Nowhere in the accompanying documents or labels you won't find mention of it.
The European Commission sharply lowered the allowed usage limit canthaxanthin at the stern fish.
But itd are all producers listened to it.

But the worst is that producers have faced a number of challenges questioning the viability and ecological purity artificial fish production.
Good intentions pursued with the establishment of aquaculture.
Was the motto "Valuable fish not only on the table of the rich."
And no one suspected that aquaculture will soon become a threat to human health and the ecosystem of the whole Severoitalyansky and the Baltic.
And the name of this problem - marine parasites.

It turned out that hundreds of thousands of salmon living in a confined space are the perfect environment and food supply for all sorts of parasites.
A constant water exchange makes them out of the cages in the open sea where the infected population of wild fish.
A variety of marine nefarious creatures is amazing.

This is the salmon louse(Lepeophtheirus salmonis) - a rounded lobster claw parasite to 12 mm size, aplauses a fish feeding at first mucus, and then the skin of his "host" the salmon or sea trout.
This disturbed salt metabolism in the skin and even a small number of lice can kill the young salmon.
The female "sea lice," they lay eggs in the form of cords containing up to 1400 pieces.

In the pictures good visible lice on the fish.
From the cage, which contains about 600 thousand salmon in a day through a cell barrier nets in the open sea takes up to 80 million larvae of salmon lice.
They attack passing wild salmon and sea trout, which, during migration, often repeatedly pass by the salmon farms, and if the parasites stuck on their body, the fish reach the spawning grounds have either been weakened or are severely ill.

This is Gyrodactylus(Gyrodactylus)- tiny leeches, which can damage the skin of fish.
Fluke is arranged like a Russian nesting doll: it is still one Fluke, next, in turn, another and so on up to five parasites in one.

In the first stage of the disease the fish keeps near the surface of the water, swaying the entire body.
The dorsal fin is omitted, the remaining fins are compressed
Then the fish starts to RUB against the ground, the stems and leaves, some parts of her body become bluish-matte or gray.
Inter-beam destroyed the fabric of the fins.
The fish stops eating.
On the skin it may appear ulcers, poorly flushed a separate seat, bluish-white patches on the gills, eyes turbid.

Besides fish affect infectious diseases such as furunculosis.
In the mid-80's in Norway, I broke out an epidemic of furunculosis of fish.
The causative agent was recorded with the young captive salmon from Scotland and has spread from nurseries to the natural population of salmon.


Farmers are forced to fight parasites and infections using a variety of toxic chemicals.
As countermeasures against the epidemic furunculosis, almost 24 rivers poured the poison rotenone is derived from roots of the tropical plant derris, which was destroyed in the rivers of all life.
And then there instilled new salmon!
But what was the horror and death for all living things in these water bodies.
To feed salmon add even forbidden nerve poisons.
Using heavy artillery in the form of the pesticide emamectin benzoate (SLICE).
But all this helps only for a while.
And parasites cannot kill until the end (in the meat of salmon and other marine organisms remain parasites, they are assigned to the "owner") and the fish becomes more useful to the poisons.

After all these facts, it becomes clear about why banned the import of chilled salmon to Russia.

It's not a disaster, but the bell rang.
The idea of increasing the natural population of valuable fish species may result in their complete extinction.
Again on the face aboutresistance of nature to human action.

Michelle and Christine were left far behind.
Eight-kilometer stretch of road here goes through a small pjatisotmetrovyj pass and when its upper end was subjected to the wheels of our bikes, the estuary of the mighty Sognefjord in all its glory okrylos to the public.
We even stopped for a moment to admire this picture.

On the ferry crossing Rutledal - Rysjedalsvika paid CZK 25 and a boat for 20 minutes brought us to the opposite shore of the longest fjord in Norway.

Sognefjord (Sognefjorden) is the second largest fjord in the world after Scoresby Sund on Greenland.
It is like a wide deep river runs for 203 km into the Scandinavian Peninsula.
In addition, the fjord is long and deep it still.
In its mouth the depth is 1308 meters.
No wonder that on his day could be hiding alien ships.

During the cold war there was a mess.
Allegedly spotted Soviet submarines were secretly coming into the fjord from the Atlantic.
In November 1972 the Norwegian Newspapers exploded with headlines of "In the Sognefjord discovered a submarine of the Warsaw Pact."
As a result the whole! the Norwegian fleet (up to 30 warships) with the support of other NATO forces a few weeks threw an unidentified underwater object depth charges, but unfortunately completely in vain.
Only spawned huge waves ,overturning fishing boats on the coast.

Witnesses saw glowing lights in one place, then in another.
The military rushed from shore to shore, hoping to catch the wily Soviet sailors.
Then, some people claim to have seen four "rocket" taking off from the water near Hermansverk.
They were silent and resembled small red balls of fire.

Apparently the Norwegians or became the object of mass insanity, or watched the UFO.
Since then, similar things happened in other fjords of Norway.
There was talk about the alleged underwater alien bases.
Although it's probably only some kind of special natural phenomena and only the perverse imagination of people trying to attribute seen some superhuman extraterrestrial origin.

Over the Sogne fjord there is a power line with a span of 4597 metres, which is the second achievement in the world

Along the entire Northern coast of the fjord of the highway was laid liberally dotted with large and small tunnels.

In Vadheim there was a necessity to get provisions before Parking.
Why and was elected so by the way tucked supermarket KIWI.
After trial and error we chose, it is preferable that a chain of grocery stores.
In KIWI, the level of food prices is lower than in others.
And then often there are products with label First Price and Euroshop meaning at least one and a half times less.

Generally in Norway is quite a lot of brand shopping.
The most famous Rema 1000 - national brand and Rimi subsidiary of the Swedish ICA.
There are more co-operative supermarkets COOP and some other less frequently we encountered.
They are all attractive prices do not Shine.
Especially Coop - durogesic still the same.
But as luck would have if the town is small, there is one supermarket, and of course Coop.
We have him by the end of the campaign tried to shy away as the devil from Holy water and bought food only in a pinch.

But if you don't look at the prices, the selection of products in Norwegian stores is always good.
Especially in the Department of cheese.
Cheese there is an abundance. The vast majority vacuum Packed in packages of 500 gr and 1 kg.
But in a special Department there is a huge cheese head which is cut according to the request.</p>

We of course tried to take cheaper, especially considering the fact that Ilya was shaped cheese swallow and it took us a kilo of cheese in 2-3 days.
But still try to diversify your menu and try different varieties.

Strange but true - Norway is famous in Europe for its cheese, perhaps less than the Netherlands or Switzerland.
The most famous hard cheese in Jarlsberg(Jarlsberg) (it is prepared from cow's milk high fat).
With a mild, nutty flavor and Golden-yellow inside with holes of different sizes.

Semi-solid Nokkelost (Nokkelost) with a sharp taste and cumin seeds and Ridder(Ridder) - cheese orange color in the form of a cylinder tastes like peasant oil.

Cheese Gamelost (Gamelost). Gammelost means "old cheese".
Such a title he acquired because of his appearance: the surface of the cheese grows a greenish-brown mold, like ripe old cheese. Real Gammelost made from goat's milk.
To enhance the growth of mold young Gammelost wrapped in straw soaked in gin.
The taste of juniper berries affect the taste of the cheese.
Gamelost – incredibly spicy and flavorful cottage cheese. In addition, the fat content its only 5%

Soft cheese Snofrisk(Snowfrisk)made from goat's milk.
It has a slightly salty taste, It is made with the addition of dill and the juice of the berries.

And of course Geitost (Gjetost), which refers to the cheese from the WHEY.
It is prepared from a mixture of goat's milk (the word giet means "goat") and cream.
Gjetost the most popular cheese in Norway. They eat it for Breakfast, cutting thin slices, with bread or crackers.
If the cheese is made only from cow's milk, it is called Mysost (Mysost).
If from a mixture of goat's and cow's milk - Gudbrandsdalsost (Gudbrandalsost)
But more on this cheese later. So it was that we tried it by accident not knowing what to buy.

Moreover the famous cheese knife in the form of a spatula called a cheese plane(ostebovel) was invented in 1925, the Norwegian Tour Bjorklund.
In popestii carpenter and his professionally annoyed as shredded cheese, thick knives.
And like his carpenter's tools came up with a planer for cheese.
However, his invention was received with hostility by the owners of the cheese, who had expected sales would fall, because the tool initially rushed to buy the poor whose houses were dominated by a need.
As the plane sliced the cheese thin slices.
However, the fears proved groundless.
Cheese planer copied by many companies in the world.
But only Norwegian products factory Berlanga considered a benchmark of quality.
What I learned later.
Illya prowled in search of such a plane - he left on him ordering his girlfriend.
I, too,yielding to the herd instinct, bought at the end of the campaign the cheapest plane for 1 Euro.
He was Chinese and is now lying on the back of my closet.
The plane was flimsy and bent in different directions for more severe depression.
I like Estet, tried to cut them with cheese, but soon as thin as blotting paper, slices of cheese began to irritate me.
A sandwich with them, acquired the taste of bread, which was not felt to cheese.
And only when I've done ugly loaf with a knife, everything was back to normal.
The sandwich was a real sandwich, and the plane ranked among other unnecessary kitchen things, supposedly to make your life easier and giving their owner a sense of belonging to European civilization.

Immediately after Vadgama road goes into the old one-mile tunnel.
The inside air temperature immediately dropped from 19 to 5-6 degrees.
We rode in t-shirts andcontrast was very sensitive.
Anxious to escape from the dark and damp embrace of man-made dungeons.

Passing by the village Kirkjebo saw an unusual sculptural ensemble around one particular house.
Nearby in the garden was busy and the lady graciously allowed to photograph this creation.

Sogne fjord is still splashed on his right hand and, despite his receptionist still was a real sea. The quiet calm of the South sea with a host of smells and sounds.
Sometimes it seemed we were going along the coast of some southern resort.
Warm Sunny weather only exacerbate this feeling.

About Austram saw a beach sign and then decided to stop.
The beach itself was quite small.
Concrete pier with a toilet in which to our surprise there was no water.
So I had to dial her in a little Creek the current distance.
Ilya proposed to put the tent on the concrete.
But there was a passage and uncomfortable.
I'm not too lazy to walk along the rocky shore and found a great site almost directly above the water.

There we go.

The beach here consists of layers of stone dunes.
If the huge pile of sand under the influence of wind on the water side stone languages frozen in the eternal state.
Pine forest approached almost close to the shore.
The place was fantastic.

Several people were fishing nearby.
For Elijah it was as a decoy for ducks.
Abandoning everything, he grabbed the rod and went fishing.

And caught one little fish. Like cod.
We cooked, to eat but could not - the meat was much less than in mackerel.

Cozy warm evening gave way to darkness and lying on foams, we looked at the starry sky the edge of the known World - a great Northern country.

As we did not have enough at least anote one person, to share the joy of being not only among themselves.

But then every fish would be much less:)