Stone silence

Traveled about 77 km


...I want nothing more than to become the kind of person who would be able to make the world a little better.
It would be the best. But I don't know whether it is possible to achieve this.
I don't know what to do to improve the world.
I'm not sure it is enough to simply smile at everyone you meet. ...

At an altitude of 1300 meters surprisingly good to sleep.
When I opened his eyes and looked out over the threshold of the tent already being faded Orb of the sun.
Water in a mountain stream sparkled with small diamonds on a background of wet rocks.
The noise of the rushing rapids of water, initially interfere with sleep, has now become almost indistinguishable.
Looks like we've finally begun to merge with nature.

Ilya as usual and in the power of youth persistence be the first to stand didn't want.
However, when he saw the first cyclists on the trail I thought out loud that inflatable Mat waiting for another test of honesty, Ilya has stuck his head out of the tent.
Aside Hallingskeid passed three people.
It was evident as the first one stopped about where we left the Mat.
But the distance was great enough and see what happens there ,as well as to evaluate the mental anguish of another lucky man was not possible.
Although maybe I'm exaggerating a stranger and the orphan thing - a temptation only for those who are not accustomed to appreciate someone else's private property.
What a joy to breathe the crystal cool air of the mountains, to wash in the clear icy water and know what all the fuss is about the world now, somewhere far away from you

My friend woke up in a wretched mood.
Whether again that the cause was an early awakening, or inflatable Mat haunted - God knows.
But oatmeal works wonders and makes any shattered nervous system.

Working on minicontrol about an hour.
The hardest part was to set fire to it. Thick glossy pages of a guidebook to the fjords stubbornly refused to fire and were smoldering.
Or maybe blame the thin air of the highlands.
Height it seems small and the body feels not, but the process of burning maybe it was more critical.
Besides, the next morning felt a clear deficit of small wood and chips.
To go look for these things was too lazy.

But in the end Elijah coped with the scout task, and half an hour later we silently enjoyed the morning hot meal.
And all around us were crawling local livestock in chitinous shells, swirled small flies they are of particular concern not delivered.
Norwegian peace and phlegm was apparently peculiar and insects.

Around 11 o'clock in the morning the wheels of our bikes finally again rustled on the gravel most popular in Norway, and Alpine Hiking trails.

In contrast to the beautiful paved trails Laerdal-Aurland (passing through the pass of 1300 m above Legal-tunnel if you forgot) Rallarvegen road was much busier.
It was actually a line for lovers of active rest.
Hundreds of in-shape sport of the Norwegians and of course the aliens were dressed from end to end of this path, choosing to move bikes or your own two feet.

Trail was well-marked and equipped with signs in motion.
So getting lost would be difficult, though not impossible, for mainstream and then side-stepped purely Hiking trails leading to the tops of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.

We were moving towards the main stream as the starting point for pilgrims on the way have served either the village Hogeschool (Haugestol) is located on the highway or the highest mountain railway milltion of Europe - Finse (Finse).

The travelers walked or rode out to the village of Myrdal(Myrdal)where we got on the train to Bergen or Oslo.
Or down to Flame (Flam) on foot or cable car Flamsbana.

This direction was no doubt easier, as the road was mostly downhill.
Well, we chose the opposite way - more complex. Therefore went to the station Finse nearly alone throughout catching myself welcome respectful views of oncoming.
They knew how we were harder than them .

Generally speaking this road called Rallarvegen was originally just animal.
It drove the trucks and other construction equipment at the time when the newly rich oil Norway set out to replace the ancient railway on a new one.
A new piece of hardware is almost entirely through tunnels, occasionally running out into the light.
But here it is mostly covered with metal boxes, serving as protection from the stone landslides and snow avalanches.

And the rails of the old road to dismantle did not.
And it is absolutely right. She was the main attraction of these places, giving a futuristic flavor to the lunar landscape of the local mountains.
Littered in some places with snow drifts, and other like running nowhere, an old piece of hardware like the current generation about what a heroic effort it was built once upon a time more than a hundred years ago ordinary workers of Norway.

RallarVegen is on a high plateau between Vatnahalsen (Vatnahalsen) - 812 m above sea level.m. and Hogescholen (Haugestol) - 990 m above sea level.m.
The highest point of the road - 1343 m above sea level.m. located 10 km from the station of Finse(Finse) near the town of Tigernut (Fagernut).

When it was a station of railway, and TEPEph there is a Museum explaining how it was built in the 19th century.
We could not look inside to gawk at the old utensils, household items, builders and sohranivshiesya of the trolley facing the entrance.
One was as stated in the theme - golopristan, and the second a mere motorcycle with a sidecar.

Inside the house there is a small café.
Bloody delicious smell of pancakes which are baked before your eyes enthusiastic young people.

Yes Yes! It turns out pancakes are not a traditional Russian dish. The Norwegians also know a lot about.
And it is likely that they brought the recipe of thin pancakes on the Rus in the 9th century.
The Norwegians think pancakes are the national dish and they're right – these pancakes they spread to those places where they established their colony, for example, in Normandy and in the same Russia.
But rich (thick) pancakes, this is likely already the invention of Rus.
The most popular are potato pancakes "loners" traditional pancakes "the swells".
Filling for pancakes can be very diverse or sweet or salty, as if inside put the fish.

Terribly hungry. But the high prices for a damn Cup of coffee in the amount 80 CZK (~ 300 rubles) discourage any poor person whom we were.
Elijah first went to obviate local outhouse.
His young healthy body has always worked at maximum amplitude with pronounced metabolic processes inside the body.

Despite the fact that the circle lay still not melted snow was not cold.
We went in late July and probably in this time it is as melts.
In earlier months road peremitina shrabani and sometimes cyclists have to drive on snow. But in the midst of the summer calendar here you can always find a spectacular bunch of water still in the second state of aggregation and courageously posing on her fOnet.

All along the road here and there are a number of isolated wooden houses.
This so-called shelters - hutty (hytta) - accommodation of travellers.
As a rule they are not specialized hotels, and private houses.
Among Norwegians is considered prestigious to have a second house somewhere in the mountains or on the coast. And it is especially nice if around no neighbors even on a gun shot.
The owners rarely visit their holdings - at best once or twice a year.
The rest of the time I rent them to tourists and the money to go overseas to lie on the beaches.

Previously considered art to have no amenities other than cold water.
But times change, and with them manners.

Can't vouch exactly for the shelters that we had only seen from afar, but it is vroyatno their internal contents looks like this:
Living room with fireplace, TV and dining table.
Equipped kitchen with stove, microwave, fridge, freezer and dishwasher.
Bathrooms with shower and toilet.
Sauna. Heated floors.
Storage room for skis (or bikes)

To us it was irrelevant we have at the backpack dangling his own personal hutta but without hot water, but no less desirable at the end of each running day.

The most beautiful landscapes of these places are located between Vatnahalsen and Fagerstrom(Fagervatn) - pass RallarVegen.

At the height of 1343 m is constant, but not too tedious ascent finally ends.
But ends and wonderful views of the deep blue mountain lakes, gray rocks with white caps of snow, contrasting with the dark green of mountain meadows.
End not immediately, but gradually become less and less expressive.
Like the hand of God who created these places, tired to draw at the limit of ecstatic revelation.
The strokes of the brush less and paint againmytee.
Anguish gives way to calm, but no less talented workmanship.

Got to meet a whole family of bikes. All of course wearing helmets. Ahead with a large gap from the peleton rode small 5-6 years. Parents quietly let him go away from us, despite the fact that the footpath at times with one hand then the other broke off pretty steeply down.

There was one more detail throughout the RallarVegen which is at first softened, then slowly began to irritate, and at the end, and is brought into a frenzy.
The fact that anybody (and you understand mostly everything went in the direction opposite to ours) considered good manners be sure to say Hello to us using the exclamation "Hey".
Of course at first we followed the universal etiquette.
It was even fun. But when they say "Hey" hundreds of times it becomes a burden.
Even the face face ill smile so often.
In the end I decided to go beyond just a knowing nod and throat do not breech and nerves of steel to hell:)

So Makar, we arrived for dinner to the station of Finse.
The station itself is very tasty decorated. On the one hand apartments, with the other shops and waiting rooms. Shop with a minimal selection of products and inflated prices.
Middle old car - as part of the decor.

In the distance could be seen the snow cap of the glacier Hardangerjøkulen (Hardanger Jokulen).
There is also possible if you wish to go on foot.
Without a guide really do not suggest glacier tricky thing.

But we first thing was the cashier wanted to know how much is the ticket to Oslo.
I naively thought it was about 200-250 CZK.
The reality was twice as expensive.
If there were any doubts about the future movement ,they are no longer themselves - to pay about 2000 rubles horror as not wanted.

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And we have not lost. The trail after the station goes all the time on the descent - very smooth but lingering.
We arranged shaped cross country - raced at speeds over 30 km/h on a sinking strewn with small chips of rocks trail.
On one of their turns Ilya did not resist in the saddle - tried to avoid a flock of sheep, his bike skidded on the pebbles, but he successfully managed to jump off and didn't hurt himself.
Only a backpack on one side was bluish from dust.
As a result, 27 km to Hughesdale we flew for an hour, on the way stopping to swim in the lake.

Here again the asphalt. Almost a day was a longitudinal stretch of 100 km from Flåm (including a difficult ascent from the fjord to the mountains) In Hughesdale in the shop unexpectedly met behind the counter a nice girl Natasha from Latvia.
All the same, from the Baltic States travels a lot people to work.

On highway number 7 by the evening reached the city Geilo.
In Russian his name is pronounced as yaylo (as well as the Swedish Gavle - Phen) Only now pedaling on a level surface, I distinctly felt, how tired I bike.
Gradually accumulating fatigue came out in a strange form of rejection to his favorite means of transportation.

From yaylo to Oslo as it turned out goes to not only the train (the price of which compared to departing from Finse decreased insignificant), but the bus.
It was cheap and besides there was a youth discount card ISIC.

Ilya was trying to drive at night even farther in the direction of Ola (Al).
But I categorically forbade him to even think about it.
Near yaylo was a beautiful lake and I hoped to find there a place for a good rest.
Only the argument about the possibility free of charge to fish (even though it was prohibited by law) has had on my zealous friend sedative effect.

Language to Kiev in Russia will bring, well, in Norway brought us to the beach on the lake.
Interviewing a record number of citizens still found the descent to the water.
The beach was the slices of short-cut grass, a fire pit and an indispensable table behind which sat a motionless local odalisque middle-aged, looking over the horizon with bleary eyes.
We stopped near politely without violating her privacy, yet giving a clear message to her that we sat and that's enough - let the others sit.
The eloquent presence of two sweaty men had on a woman's brain is beneficial effects and she in a few minutes, weighed anchor and departed in an unknown direction.

Well, we without further ADO perky scattered throughout the territory of our camp.
Ilya was last pulled out my cigs and went back to the lake.
It was quite small
The bottom of it all was covered with the slippery muddy rocks and the swim was not only uncomfortable but dangerous.
Little rescued slates but not completely.
But I still managed to muddle bathe the body from the dust of the mountains.

While I enjoyed the warmth of the departing sun Illya hooked a hook with a spoon for some rock in the middle of the lake.
I immediately realized that fish today we can not see.
Half an hour Illya pulled the rod in different directions, but in vain.
Sail he refused, fearing a hit on the rocks.
After the St. Vitus's dance he came up with the idea that the opposite Bank to get the spinner will be easier. I offered him to circumcise and not to suffer.
But maximalism Ilya did not let him surrender so soon.
It was necessary at least to indicate the visibility of the struggle for the tackle.

And he otpravilsya in a way. After another 15 min Ilya circled the lake, landed in some backwater for a long time swearing at full voice, and finally came ashore exactly opposite.
There he made sure that the spinner is stuck right in the middle of the lake and another half hour thinking to swim to him, or return pOahu.
Finally the trembling creature inside gave way to the impulse of courage and Illya swam.
I kept the line tight so he could see where to dive.
However the success it brought.
The lure securely lodged in the depths of Norwegian waters.
And obrezanie still had to do the next morning.
Ilya seemed to the last hoped that it may be as an resolve.
Not resolved.
Norway took his spinner (Ilya bought it in Flekkefjord)

Last night was therefore not very happy.
Even divorced fire and a hot meal not too warmed our souls.

Is that a clever product we bought the day before by mistake pretty fun.
He was in the Department together with cheese - kilogrammy briquette in the red coloured wrapper with the aunts in their national costumes.
And was bought for a change I thought it was cheese and the price attracted.
But it turned out that it's not really cheese, but some Norwegian delicacy.
Red putty and the taste is a cross between condensed milk, butterscotch and cheese.
Not much to eat in General.

When vengeance crackled frost
and food was tight,
gave me for services
Norwegian cheese GUDBRANDSDALSOST.

I turned: and - e-my! -
he's like a piece of ordinary soap,
like a sword out of TNT
(so I imagine).

Plastic, without the usual holes,
and if you take his cheek -
the taste is sweet, like condensed milk.
Anything - but not cheese. (W. Godlewski)

Later I learned that this is a Norwegian Brown Cheese Geitost, This cheese is unique to Norway and was first produced in the Gudbrandsdal Valley in Central Norway in the 1860s.
Norwegian Brown Cheese vypuskaetsya in two versions:
1. Gudbrandsdalsost - made from a mixture Cosiit's milk ,cow's milk and cream.
2. Ekte geitost (means “real goat cheese”) - pure goat's milk and cream.

Heard that in Moscow now also possible to buy it - for example in supermarkets "Azbuka Vkusa" food Corporation Tine delivers its products since 2005.

Norwegians are very fond of it and consume in enormous quantities.
But we like that he went. However it's all about the habit.
Especially upset Illya, accustomed to piling a dozen tea sandwiches.
On this day, he went to bed quite hungry.