Rode 47 km
...Of the capital as a magnet to attract people, this applies not only to Oslo, and Stockholm, Paris and many other cities, and we all crowds flock to the capital where we think is the most interesting, where you can meet many interesting people, although in fact there is nothing particularly interesting happens and people are basically not much more interesting than other places, but we wait passionately and persistently hope that something interesting cannot happen and when parabolam this passion and understand that it was a disease, look, it's been years, and here we fall into a reverie and in mortal anguish.....
The sun woke us up that day. Clear skies set up for the fight.
Rain tired and wanted heat.
Illya again tried fishing again with no success.
Seeing that fishing does not go, he took up pocahotas a water-rat that came out of the water to bask on the rocks.
The rat was not timid and willing to work as a fashion model.
On bezrybe, as they say, and the rat will do.
Weighed anchor again at about eleven.
On the way passed a small campsite and washed free in the shower.
To go clean was easy and pleasant.
Morning Asaro took us quiet hum of a few machines.
On the road met a German couple.
The woman was driving with visible tension, and the cavalier it patiently trailed behind and not customized.
Every time brought some interest to study overseas vielenregen.
And every time, much to the delight of we were convinced that only in St. Petersburg sew right velorjukzakov:)
On the highway decideif not to go, and chose a longer route on the bike path.
Pointers it appeared again on the roadside.
And of course sweated in the result considerably.
All the cycle paths in Norway are in a roundabout way, repeating the sometimes very sickly contours of the land.
This highways are almost straight, gnawing tunnels in the mountain slopes.
And we had to strain entering high pjatisotmetrovyj pass the limit of the village of Fana(Fana).
Over the previous days I already weaned from the mountains and my eyes were out of orbit, when I went for another turn and saw again that the end is not yet.
At the top of the pass was arranged a small Museum of ancient Norwegians. Old house yards and the elements of everyday life.
We took a breath and ,having eaten the Apple, rushed down.
Soon, the idyllic landscapes with sheep gradually moved to the city.
Started A Large Bergen.
We drove for a long time before the suburbs came into the center. Perhaps this is skewing the overall impression.
It's one thing when you for example bring on the ship. You approach from the fjord to the local port.
Then in front of you a magnificent picture of the old quarters of the city.
And we say so from the inside breezing in which there is absolutely nothing remarkable.
Almost immediately buried in Central Park with a lake Lile Lunge.
This is one of the favorite places for walking among the bergeners.
In the middle of the lake, fountain and views of the hills surrounding the city.
There is also a lakeside gallery Rasmus Meyer - it exhibits paintings of the famous Munch and other artists of Norway.
Going to the sea, we passed a little to the left and drove into a braid Nornes (Nornes).
There the sea was located in the quarter of prestigious modern homes that are literally hanging over the water. It was seen as people taking advantage of the sunshine, sunbathing on the sun loungers on the balconies.
These houses are protected from the wind. But it was enough to approach the water as biting sea breeze to chills chills the skin.
On a bench in a secluded place we made a lunch.
Elijah immediately became drowsy and he fell asleep without departing, as they say, from cash Desk.
The idea in such moments, you can take it cushy. You can Rob, you can do anything you want - not feel.
I didn't touch it for half an hour to rest people.
And he perched on the pier and admired the small Mudeford and boats scurrying it back and forth.
Bergen the second largest city in Norway.
The population of about 240 thousand people. The capital of Norway until 1299. Bergen is the second largest city in Norway, was founded between 1066 and 1093 years. The Norwegian king of Olav Kira proclaimed city of the ancient harbour of the Vikings.
The city attracted guests from all corners of the earth.
Someone came and left, and someone decided to stay here.
Bergen is a melting pot, which mixed different cultures.
Bergen grew up around the harbour and was originally a centre for trade, shipping and crafts.
In the thirteenth century, Bergen became the capital of the Norwegian Kingdom, remaining the largest city in the country until the XX century.
The most popular place in town is the Fish market. For Bergen it's like the Eiffel tower is to Paris.
The fish market is a traditional place where farmers and fishermen of the city's surrounding area sell their products.
Live fish stored in special containers and is twice as expensive as frozen.
The market itself is small, but the variety of seafood struck our imagination accustomed to the Pollock , the hake and sole in the best case.
What monsters there.
Crabs, squid, fat prawns. And a lot of salted fish. Bright red pieces of salmon involuntarily draw the eye. Here you can enjoy sandwiches with salted fish or caviar.
Of course the prices - Mama do not cry.
Bergen is probably the most expensive city in Norway./>
Ilya eyeing the Souvenirs - looking Troll.
Them there was also a lot different. From the tiny to the huge.
And the prices are 40 CZK to infinity.
This place is like especially for tourists - like the Arbat in Moscow.
I am a Troll then bought in a specialty shop of the same name.
Such a mischievous, single-toothed, funny and not terrifying.
In this market, in addition to fish and Souvenirs were sold the famous Norwegian sweater pattern Marius.
They came up with some UNN Seiland Dale, who worked as one of the leading designers in the house of Dior in France.
She created the geometric ornament on the shoulders, chest and back of the sweater, using the Greenlandic and eskimo motifs.
Say that the circular pattern she learned from the Danish Royal family dressed in the Greenlandic national costumes. But from afar could not see what a Lacy collar and lace woven bead and moved the pattern of the Northern lights in the knitting.
The Norwegians now think these sweaters, their pure national achievement and try to remember where everything came from.
There is still a huge textile Corporation "Dale of Norway" which deals with the issue of the Norwegian sweaters founded in 1872 by Peter Gibsona in the village of Dale on the West coast of Norway.
Now there's a powerful computer-aided manufacturing.
Machine knit part of the sweater and then manually bonded into one.
Apparently the coincidence of the name of the designer and the company name is random and not linked.
I'd love to buy this sweater, but the price (about 8000 rubles) was too great.
However, Ilya could not resist the temptation to take them myself.
The people in the market square was in turmoil. Hundreds of tourists and locals roamed the rangem and bought, bought.
With the weather we just got lucky! Bergen is the rainiest city in Norway.
They say that rain is not just a few weeks a year. This is confirmed by numerous Souvenirs "rainy" character: yellow raincoats, umbrellas and rain Bergen water, preserved in jars of different sizes.
However locals say that there is no bad weather - there are people who do not know how to dress properly.
The sun was even hot. However, in the shaded coolness chilled him to the bone.
After making your way among the different crowds, went to Bryggen(Bryggen) to watch the old Hanseatic quarters.
Bergen grew up around the harbour and was originally a centre for trade, shipping and crafts. And became the largest city in the North, the first capital of Norway.
The position of Bergen was so significant to the 13th century, the Hanseatic League, the German merchant Guild opened its own representation, one of four in Europe, on the Wharf called Bryggen.
The Union has carried out intermediary trade between Western, Northern and Eastern Europe, having commercial hegemony in Northern Europe.
In Bergen as a Hanseatic port, was the so-called office, as we would say - mission.
Here he worked as a sales agents who knew much more profitable to sell the goods arrived and the load leaving the ship.
The composition of these firms was exclusively male.
It was believed that women interfere with the practice of trade, so much so that Junior staff who came from afar, were forbidden to live in the city and married local girls.
Guilty waiting for the death penalty.
Hanseatic merchants in Northern and Eastern Europe used the military power of the German knightly orders (Teutonic order was a member of the Hanseatic League).
German merchants in Bergen sent their children to undergo a kind of practICA and "tanning skins".
They waited a grueling and nasty job unloading barrels treskova fat,the smell of which might knock down with tion unprepared.
"Tanning skins" - it was like initiation.
The elders hung the beginners belt and smoked on the fire, where he threw a horse hair or pieces of skin.
Then the accidents were in the Harbor, were thrown into the cold water and finally whipped with birch rods till the blood.
The last such test was sent home a bloody shirt, which meant that he was a harsh baptism, and it can take "the cause".
Workers serving the Hanseatic court, and lived in these narrow, stretched out along the shore houses.
Perhaps then they looked not so elegant as now, was not heated and was guarded by a pack of watchdogs.
Every building was a maze of warehouses, office and utility rooms.
It also housed bedrooms with two-story bunks.
The mixture of smells of fish, whale blubber, seaweed, and long-unwashed bodies hung over these places.
Bryggen is the oldest part of Bergen.
Marina preserved in the exact form in which it was in the 11th century. However in 1702 there was a fire and an old merchant houses rebuilt.
Since then, residents of Bergen some alienate themselves from the whole of Norway and say: "I'm from Bergen and not from Norway." They even have a dialect of its own.
Wooden colorful houses in a row are right next to each other on the shore of the Bay of vågen.
Though not quite on the beach.
In advertising brochures Bryggen take TACB that I cannot see the road passing directly along the waterfront. And the houses themselves are separated from the water inland.
This way spoils the impression. Yes, and the infamous wooden bridge also do not look like their painted. Just blotches of boards among the stone pavers.
Maybe once upon a time the whole bridge was made of wood, but alas, not now.
We resewed a little sit down in one of the outdoor cafes on the street below along with all the air of other times.
And at the same time to go to the outhouse in a bar somewhere.
Great leaned against the façade of Hanseatic house and Elijah first went to the bosom of the Norwegian debauchery.
Returned disheveled and excited. The toilet there was common for men and women.
And when it came there were a few local women involved in the make-up on.
"All young, tall and like all women in Norway, juicy and delicious"- Ilya excitedly talked about what a success he made in his veloroso and red shirt.
His words came out, if not me, who was waiting for him on the street, dancing, with another kind of desire, and not faint knowledge of the English language, he would have turned around on the spot.
However, knowing his friend and loyalty to his friend, I just smiled such impulses.
Still struck by the fact that the bar no Smoking.
Probably it is connected with the adopted in 2004 the law about the national ban of Smoking in all bars and restaurants.
Cigarettes in Norway worth NOK 68 (9.7 USD) per pack of 20 pieces, which is one of the highest prices in the world.
Recently in Norway, the campaigns against Smoking.
Twist on television commercials for example where it shows how cynical the tobacco harm to human health.
In the clips shown, for example, the heads of the tobacco companies, discussing such additives to cigarettes, like ammonia, with the aim to ensure that tobacco products caused more addictive.
"Every time you buy a pack of cigarettes, you sponsor industry that is harmful to your health", - is spoken in the background of the display of the heads of the seven tobacco companies of the United States, deliberately speaking to a U.S. congressional Committee in 1994 that nicotine is not addictive.
"You have to do something they are most afraid of. Stop buying their products", - concludes in the video clip.
What's more now going to pass a law prohibiting Smoking on public transport.
In principle, people in Norway's conscious and polite and if you ask smokers around you a person to extinguish a cigarette, he'll do it.
But if you stop ten people smoke that this method does not breathe together with them the smoke is already problematic.
Because I want to simply ban all Smoking in such places.
According to statistics despite the limitations and prohibitions of Smoking in Norway has not been reduced.
But even shielded as it is non-smokers who generally had no choice before.
Finally, completing business related to the functioning of the organism, we settled down in the sun next to the pub.
However, instead of mugs with a foamy drink price of 100 crowns we ate regular ice cream 20.
Bergen offers Europe's only Museum of Leprosy.
The fact that Norwegian scientist microbiologist Gerhard Armauer Hansen the first in the world to discover agents of a terrible disease - leprosy or leprosy as it is now called.
From about 1850 to 1900 Bergen was an international center for treatment of leprosy, which has three hospitals and the largest concentration of patients in Europe.
Hospital of St. Jorgen – the oldest institution in Norway and one of the oldest in Scandinavia.
From the early 15th century, this hospital is an integral part of Bergen and at the same time would like an independent city within a city.
The Museum is located in the hospital and shows the everyday life of patients, stages of understanding this disease.
In the first half of the 19th century, the number of cases of leprosy in Norway has increased dramatically, especially in the Western part of the country in fjords.
In 1868 Xof Ansen was appointed to the hospital of St. Jorgen for the treatment of leprosy in Bergen.
Previously, the disease was not treated and was of the opinion that it is inherited.
Hansen proved that it is not, opening the mycobacteria causing leprosy.
Yes, the evening was still some time and we just rode through the Central part of the city, its narrow cobbled streets.
In the Bergen born composer Edvard Grieg.
It was namerenie to go to a concert of his music performed in a Cathedral.
Two hundred euros for a ticket. The desire was great, but the concert was zakonchilsa too late and we all did not smile again in the darkness to look for accommodation outside the city.
Of course the bike with one hand gives freedom, and on the other still connects via the hands and feet of their owners.
For a long time to neglect our vehicles and the Luggage in a big city not like.
Generally in Bergen a lot of different museums, Fishing, Industry , fine arts, Natural history ,Fleet and some others.
In this city, in contrast to Oslo, you can ferment more than one day.
The sense of time and history here is much stronger.
Near shopping plaschadi is a large information center where you can take a free card or to ask a question specially trained people. You all clearly and lucidly explained.
Detailed Cycling card, purchased in Flekkefjord, ended in Bergen.
And we wanted something similar to get more.
But apparently North Bergen routes and no maps too.
Had to polagatsya to the one that is.
Amazing Sunny cool town we left around eight in the evening.
The plan was not to drive far from him as it is very nearby on the shore of Byfjorden on the map was the letter "B".
Well, of course it was another beach - guaranteed Parking space. Our wand wand in critical cases.
We found it really difficult. The beach was locatedn for national Museum of Ethnography. This Museum is a large Park with all sorts of old buildings and utensils.
We are at a loss was thinking even to put up a tent somewhere here on the lawn.
But fortunately a solution was found and our eyes opened Bergen. You can see the Bryggen and Hanseatic houses.
The beach as always was organized. Of course the sand was not here at all - sun grass with a table. And concreted shore, terraces goes back to the water.
Downstairs was changing cabins and toilet. This is such a bad toilet I've seen the first and last time in Norway. He was painfully similar to the ordinary Russian, except cleaner.
Well, the main thing was water. Two tap - for washing feet and body.
We were almost alone and farming located in the meadow.
The tent was up at the fence and put all the belongings on the table.
A little further was some girl picnic. Six girls were sitting around the water drank wine (unheard of in the street!) and laughed loudly.
Most interesting to approach them and strike up an acquaintance did not have the desire against the habit even of Elijah. Either tired or realized the hopelessness of this case linguistically.
Yes, they already have was good - a typical bachelorette party.
In Norway, all fixated on the equality of sexes. There's even a special Bureau for equality.
In recent time, people began to talk about discrimination on a gender sign to the contrary.
When memory device to work if the place claims to be a man and a woman, the employer will always prefer a woman but it had not been accused of male chauvinism.
So often maternity leave to care for children takes the husband and not the wife.
In the case of mutiny the wife will go straight to the Bureau and her husband will not be good.
By evening, our neighbor passed us in single file.
And hardly only not one of them graced us with a fleeting glance. Although look at what it was. This camp is staged there.
Cooked soup, sat people at a table with views of Bergen and the Bay of vågen.
The diversity of our food that day was not inferior to probably the best urban restaurant.
But our situation was obviously more luxurious.