Norway.Naive.Super!

Clever uphill will not go

Traveled: 41 miles

 

...Now surrounding the way the landscape was dominated by gray-blue rocks and gray-green water.
Lay on the ground snow, first rare spots, but the higher we climbed, the spots became larger, and finally a thick white carpet covered all slopes, sharp rocks, like axes, sticking out from under the snow.
Complete solitude, barely noticeable path therewasa among the powdered snow of the stones, visible to the right of the railroad testified that the land was inhabited.
And there is nothing else, just rocks in front and behind...


Flam in contrast to many other places in Norway would Wake up early enough.
Perhaps this is because there are a lot of tourists do not want to waste a minute of precious time in such beauty.
In any case, with the sunrise on the promenade has already become a crowd of people.
Therefore we could not this day (much to my satisfaction) too long NAP.
We had to assemble our tent.
The place we chose, though most remote, but in view of the smallness of the local inhabited places compressed from all sides by mountains that are within the public area.
Who knows pravomochny Lee was our Parking lot.

When I was washing dishes, I discovered that stone where I was doing it before the water do not reach.
The tide was quite small , but obvious.



We have time until the end of the campaign was still rife.
It was decided a half day to spend in Flåm.
Ilya categorically stated that should the last time fishing and pulling gear, resolutely went to the Bank.
And I in turn pulled his backpack on a bike went to estatewhat Flam.
The village (its hthe part about the promenade) is a toy town like those we see in American westerns with saloons, post office and a brothel.

Well, that is the brothel itself, I have not seen, but mail and a variety of restaurants in a neat yellow wooden huts were present.
The prices were the largest we've seen in Norway.
It is understandable money from gullible tourists have to mow the maximum.
That it's delivered in a big way.
The first thing of course people lure the oldest railway Flamsbanaпостроенной at the beginning of the last century.
The road kind of course is unique. In fact it is almost a funicular train moving along a single track up and down.
Its length is only 20 km away.
But the height to which the train climbs a whopping 863 m. Accordingly the angle of movement is very great.
But more on that later.



Going to the train station I decided to devote part of their time watching the organized movement.
On the bench was posted the schedule and prices.
The idea was to climb up on the train, but the price level is quickly cooled such encroachments.

For an adult one way ticket cost 175 CZK for this time of year (about 800 p)
Approximately every hour on the platform spills gomonyaschih motley crowd of tourists from different corners of the world.
And the same shipped away back to the mountains. There they are waiting for a transplant on a conventional railroad (also however notable), which connects Oslo with Bergen.
In the heart of Flåm is nothing special to do because the walk is already at sea.
To the pier and the first pleasure boats of the company Fjord1 to bowl the audience along the fjords.
Taking in the station ice cream shop for 80 rubles, I got comfortable on the sun directly opposite ways and about half an hour watching a clear and accurate personnel actions.
Then we spent some time on the Internet, paying for 15 min about 60 RUB.



The time was nearing lunch.
It was time to move on.
Ilya of course caught nothing.
Packing his gear and prewashes with Flama we walked along the river up the road into the mountains.
The road, which Rudolph called very bad.
But we reasonably believed that the Russian well the Germans - death.
And therefore not particularly attached to him of any value.
After the Russian roads any the worst Norwegian - just highway.

At first the movement for the flåm valley at all comfortable - perfect pavement.
The rise is very smooth and gradual - not like the "Snowy road"
A pleasure to go and enjoy the idyllic views of meadows, rushing mountain streams, and scattered here and there houses Plescoi village.
This is the Norwegian villages, and not of amusement for the visiting idiots.



After climbing for about two miles saw the brown, wooden flåm railway that will Church (1667), harmoniously fit into the landscape.
Near the Church is a farm on site which is high Stella established in the memory of Norwegian poet Pen Sivle born here.
Mountain of Vidmanov (Vidmesnosi) there is a green furry wall in the background, and its 140-meter waterfall Roundesse (Rjoandefossen) , like a brilliant new year's serpentine falls cascades on steep slopes.

So slowly we got to the place Blomeley (Blomheller) where he found that rose to half of desired height.
Mountain slopes are dotted with many traces and marks from avalanches, Recalling that the forces of nature many times inspired fear and awe in the hearts of travelers.

A couple of bananas and a ten-minute rest was given us.

One could see very many people Hiking invelosipedistov.
Up drove one. It and is clear - where to find more of boobies that tongue hanging out from the strain trample in a big mountain if you can comfortably ride down and back by train.
With the railway Flamsbana we pereseklis a couple of times.
And once even managed to capture the rapid composition of diving in one of the many tunnels.

Flamsbana was built early last century to transport goods.
I had to connect Aurland fjord from the main railway Oslo-Bergen.
The construction was carried out almost manually, and took 20 years.
It was vidablue manually twenty tunnels with a total length of 6 km.
To overcome the steepness of the climb tunnels sdalat winding, and the river in some places hidden in the tunnels under the railway line.
In 1944 the road was electrified.

Initially planned ridership at 22,000 people per year, now reached almost 500 000.
And Flamsbana became the only tourist attraction (cargo now carry rare)
Smart advertising has borne fruit, and thousands of people coming to Norway are eager to get here to ride up and down the mountain is steeper.
The slope here is such that every 18 meters of track, the train climbs at 1 meter up.
Noli – the longest tunnel flåm railway (1320 m).
Hence, the most spectacular and interesting view on the railway ascent to Myrdal-the railway track on four different levels on the hillside and a part of Myrdal station.
To this top station can be reached by train on the Bergen railway from Oslo or Bergen.
Myrdal (Myrdal) – a very small village sandwiched in a narrow valley between glaciers. Except for a few houses resembling sheds and railway tracks, emerges from one tunnel and immediately hiding to the other, sthere's nothing there.

On the way Flamsbana makes several stops to allow people to enjoy the magnificent views.
Station Berekum(Berekvam) at an altitude of 345 m is the only place where they can disperse the oncoming trains.
In addition, here beautiful views of the wild rugged mountains, and several rapid streams running down the slopes into the valley.
The train stops a little longer in front of the kjosfossen waterfall (Kjosfossen), long white languages which we also soon saw ahead.

But in fact we did the right thing that went his way.
From the glazed Windows of the train for the short moments that he pulls off ,it is impossible to fully partake of the surrounding beauty. Besides, the lion's share of the hour that the train goes in one direction he is under the ground.
And when you consider the expensive price of tickets, I imagine many will be very disappointed with the result.
This is the case when a is strongly embellishes the validity

In Cardale (Kardal) over the asphalt.
Here is a modern goat farm ,founded by the farmers of the flåm valley on the mountain pasture.
Goats are very popular with photographers.
Ilya also loved to take them off.
Old bridge over a raging river is closed from both sides of the wicket to the local goats do not run.

One kilometer on a rocky trail and we are at the foot of the mountain Myrdalsberge c height which the water falls the famous waterfall of Kjosfossen.
High on the horizon Blanker of water cascades down in a steep mountain slope.
The rushing water of the river dissolves in the foam with a thundering roar.

It is from here from height of 557 meters and started the very bad road about which said Rudolph.
Really nothing too bad in it. This is a very long lift-serpentine 21 has a turn.
Some discomfort give numerous rocks dotting it.
Hurriedly tried to go on bikes, but on the first turn surrendered.
The wheels of heavily Laden bikes skidded and turned. And the angle here was already substantial.
We had to walk the remaining 200 meters to the top.
Personally, I sweated here pretty.
At the end of the hand refused to pull up the bike with baggage, in addition small swarm of flies circling around pretty annoyed.
However, we allowed ourselves only one stop near the waterfall.
Powerful foaming streams of water falling on black rocks, round a small hill, again cascades rush down and crumble like , divided into narrow streams and dissolving in the water tunnels right under your feet.
The wild beauty of this place fascinates and attracts.
Water is like fire - it can be admired forever.


People coming down to meet us smiled understandingly.
Some even tried to go on bikes, but that was fraught.
The stones could easily be screwed and obodrites in full.
On motorcycles there is clearly not going down - too dangerous.
Another half hour of torture and we are at the fork right path in Myrdal, Vatnahalsen on the left.
We here and have for from Vatnahalsen starts the navvies ' road - Here (Ralarvegen) on which we continue to hold the path through the mountain plateau.

The observation deck offers a breathtaking view of the falls and the valley.
I feel like a bird soaring high.

Nearby Vatnahalsen hotel, known as the "North St. Moritz".
It is a popular mountain hotel, open all year, offers many opportunities for outdoor activities.
It is simply impossible to rest still, the very nature offers and pushes for a permanent move.

However, we with Ilya a little bit of immobility did not stop.
Drive through a Playground, we brazenly in front of the hotel for one of several set wooden heres tables. Pulled its poor food and a little snack.
How nice to take your shoes off and stretch tired legs with one hand, and on the other to shove in your mouth flavorful pieces of cheese washing them down with big gulps of fresh milk.
But all nice things eventually come to an end.
Collecting the crumbs from the table, buttoned veloryukzaki we again got under way.
It was about six in the evening. Since leaving the fjord, it took only four hours.

Obeying the signs installed along the road, the wheels of our bikes has embarked on a "Road diggers".
To the left of the trail eyes opened on a gray surface of a mountain lake.
Lake of Ranonga(Reinunga) – the beginning of a huge waterfall, Kjosfossen.
In Ranonga flock to the river from several mountain lakes.

With the gradual climb nature changes subtly.
Rough vegetation is becoming poorer and poorer, the trees give way to shrubs, and those in turn are replaced by mossy hummocks and stones. The most impressive scene opened our eyes when we reached the so-called gorge Klevagjelet
Here, even the cold chills running through my body is so mysterious and beautiful view of the rapid noisy mountain rivers, winding among the grey-green rocks.


Bergensbanen - the railway between Bergen and Oslo in Norway - is the highest railway line in Europe , crossing the harsh and inhospitable Hardangervidda plateau more than 1200 metres above sea level.

Built in the early 20th century.
Especially difficult was the section from Voss to Murdala.
This is an area with extremely cold temperatures in the winter and lots of snow.
To protect which part of the road lies under the protective boxes like long sheds.
In addition, the builders had to dig long tunnels in the thick of the local mountains.
And mostly by hand, as in the beginning of the last century there was no special atsposobami for this.

The line from Voss to Myrdal was opened on 27 November 1909.
King Haakon VII said after the opening of Bergenbanen that it was a Norwegian technical masterpiece of its generation.
The locomotives worked on this railroad until 1957, and only in 1964 were the first locomotive.

Bergensbanen has a length of 493 km with 182 tunnels with a total length of approximately 73 km.
The longest continuous tunnel on the line - the one near Finse, more than 13 km in length.
The railway crosses 300 bridges crossing the numerous rivers and streams.
The highest station on the line (and the highest railway station in Europe) - in Finse, at 1222.2 m above sea level.
The highest point of railway was Taugevatn near Finse ( 1300 meters n.m) while not built Finsetunellen in 1993 and now this point in the tunnel ( 1237 m. a. s.u.m).
Road from end to end takes a total of 6-7 hours.
The line has a maximum gradient of 1:46.5 on the section Voss-Myrdal (per 46 metres of road is rising 1 meter) and are functioning all year round.

The sun was setting when we got to Hallingskeid (Hallingskeid). It is the smallest station of the Bergen railway. It is located at an altitude of 1100 m above sea level.m.
The station itself we saw the trail diggers is a bit on the side.
In a neighborhood away could be seen small houses - shelters.

We have almost passed this place, when I vaguely caught some Creek behind.
Hill fled and waved to the young girl.
Like an angel coming down from heaven, so it's a nice Norwegian creation appeared in front of two sweaty and dirty travellers.
In perfect English she began to explain what she needs.

And we soon realized that it was not moved by the desire to meet a prominent manly guys, and the reason is much more prosaic.
Owing conventional to women of absent-mindedness she's moving on the bike and obviously indulging in a variety of nice thoughts, I dropped my favorite was the blue jacket somewhere far away in that direction where we were headed.
And when he discovered the loss, fell into a deep sadness, because the jacket is very dear to her.
But to go back of course she was reluctant and she is staying in the shelter stuck in ambush, waiting until somebody will pass by.
And finally, we appeared and now we had to find her jacket, then take him to some cafe and give some to the bartender.
And that's not all - then we had this cafe to call it a shelter and tell the good news - jacket found.
Then our mission will be accomplished.

I now tell all so cheerfully, but then had to make tremendous efforts to understand what it wants from us.
Apparently this Herculean voltage reflected on our faces and then, interrupting himself in mid-sentence, the girl inquired about the place of our production.
When it became clear that Russia and our English is so far from perfect that is unlikely to help us cope with the task, the girl immediately backpedaled.
Okay she said, smiling sweetly Now guys forget everything I told you and get on your way.
A moment later, the angel melted away.

A surge of adrenaline and testosterone was replaced by the shimmer of these.
And when, slowly pedaling, we came across the subject lying in the middle of the road from the former enthusiasm has not disappeared.
He apparently fell from passing here before us the bike.
Again another proof that all need to strengthen And now lying forlornly in the dust restless and unnecessary.
And its owner must have suffered hysterically like a girl without a jacket.
But if no jackets it was quite possible to do without an inflatable Mat, an employee of the bedding in the tent at night, it was difficult to do.

Overon to say that the ensuing scene is painfully reminiscent of a similar incident in Sweden a year ago, when I and my companion Rinat found a folding chair in the same position lying on the street of the city.
And again it cost me some effort to convince Ilya to leave everything as is, and not take someone else's, as it did not want to force the developed mentality.

... "... I took a Bicycle helmet.
This is a great helmet. Blue.
The first half hour I was thrilled that finally I have a helmet.
But now it doesn't seem like so great. It was crazy.
The helmet isn't mine. I took someone else's thing.
My brother immediately stated without equivocation that he did not wish to have this helmet nothing, but what he doesn't want me to push.
I feel unstable personality. Characterless person..."
E. Lu

We took the Mat and Elijah did not have to suffer insomnia and feel characterless person.


A place to sleep was found after some 100 meters.
About noisy river with rapids in a meadow with a fire pit.
In Norway Smoking in summer, campfires, but for this betleski location and it certainly didn't matter.
While we were moving along the plateau, then gained some amount of any sticks and boards and the end of the day our veloryukzaki completely disappeared under the wood, resembling bundles of lumberjacks.
Oddly enough was lying on the road a lot of them in order to make a fire.
Although at first glance the fire where there is no single tree impossible.

What it turns out to be prestigious and long-forgotten sensations.
The smell of smoke,the heat of the fire.
And let the food is prepared three times longer, let the pot covered with soot which then need a long time to RUB the sand to wash.
But I feel at home in Russia, where razvgot some fire when and where you please.
And abroad is very important, believe me.