The fourth sense of Scandinavia

Sweden in the first approximation

Mileage: 109 km

...David Lori stood on the bridge of the ferry "Herald of Free enterprise" and familiar eyes watched the receding lights of the night Zeebrugge.
Experienced skipper and one of the oldest employees of the company, he knew the route and lots of time spent with them a huge vessel with a length of 132 meters and a displacement - 7951 tons.
Company Townsend valued him for his ability in the shortest possible time to make the transition the channel back and forth which was important in the conditions of tough competition.

This evening the captain was loading and went to sea with a five minute delay.
To catch up he increased the speed of the ferries to 18 knots - maximum allowed values.
At the same time, olewnik boatswain mark Stanley peacefully snoring in his cabin after the vessel's departure, despite the fact that his responsibilities included closing the bow ramp input.
In the result of Bay water flowed into the hold through the open entrance and quickly sank it along with all the cars inside.
According to the principle of the pendulum, the water rocked the "Herald" through some 20 minutes after leaving port the ferry turned over and sank within a few seconds, settling his side in the shallow waters of the Bay.
Killed 190 people....

...I woke up from nausea rolls sticky muddy waves to the throat.
The cabin was in darkness.
At first I didn't even realize where I was and what was going on.
Until I saw in the darkness the silhouette of my friend. Consciousness was slowly returning to my skull.
We were going to go to a night club to miss out on chashechki coffee and enjoy the fiery roulades local artists!
However, the treacherous fatigue and a couple of glasses of wine purchased in duty free a few hours earlier did their evil thing.

He wanted to sleep enormously. And then there's the nausea.
Silla significantly unloaded from side one side. Seeling was felt even in his very bottom below engine room - where was our refuge.

When boarding the ferry the weather forecast all day pleased us with Sunny and warm suddenly deteriorated.
The gathering clouds on the horizon. Strong wind and fine rain began.
And the climate decided to show his true self.
While we slept overboard the storm broke in earnest.

I'm going to walk around the ship! - Dima's eyes were feverishly bright.
Something I do not like that we are in this weather are below the waterline.
Allusions to the Titanic were asking themselves.

I waved a hand in assent, and again fell asleep.
Lying sick less.
He came back half an hour later as Ufa green tomatoes.
The top pitching was stronger.

Dima: Time can not remember, but the night was in full swing, suddenly woke up from the unexpected that are incompatible with safely held in the evening, sensation.
To the throat came the nausea, but the body somehow cold sweat caused by a terrible fear, the reasons for which, had yet to learn.
Since the cabin was shaken slightly, it became clear that behind the storm and need not to stay in bed and suppress the primary symptoms of seasickness, driven by the idea that during a storm is in the cabin, below the waterline is not safe, I totally forgot a number of laws of physics and slowly began to almost not bendable legs to move in the direction of the Elevator to the top.

Along the way, met a couple of run passengers with bulging eyes and bags at the mouth, I climbed to the upper deck.
To see what was happening behind the glass Windows, failed, but it was clear that there in the darkness was something unimaginable storm.

All my actions at that moment I made was absolutely not true, on the upper deck, of courseI, the amplitude of oscillation of the ship was significantly above the storm the air is electrified natural deep terror, was also not beneficial in General, even I could not believe that after such a start I'll be able to pedal soon.
The brain feverishly worked need to get out of the situation, going down to several levels below, I was surprised to find that many of our fellow travelers, regardless of gender and age continued to taste all the pleasures of life.
Some happily chirping and cackling strolled down the boardwalk, someone was dancing in a bar, and some, horror of horrors, with indescribable delight abundantly absorbed local pickles, flavored drinks.

And no cries for help, distorted by fear, persons, etc.
Yes, well, perhaps only the contemplation of this festival has led me to give not want, the mind cleared up and it became clear that the most reasonable to go back and try to sleep, especially because tomorrow is expected a full day of running.

Happiness, that the death of "Gerald" was the lesson pedantic Europeans and despite the greed and power of money they have taken all measures to safety of Maritime transport.
Now carefully controlled closure of the ramps the engine Bay and the movement of the ship with wide-open gates almost impossible.
Ferries in this class reach a height of 10-storey building
In the event of an accident for a few minutes to overcome these ten stories utterly impossible and the chances of passengers "ferry monster" to survive is close to zero.
At least people like us -those who take cheap flights to cabins on the lower decks.

However, it was not very nice to lie down and realize that your life now is not up to you.
It entrusted to the hands of the elements and of the crew of the Violence and relies on the reliability of a piece of manmade metal cans with rivets, stuffed with a motley of people and stuff.

By morning the storm was over.
Gloomy low cloud torn scraps swept across the sky.
The air was heavy with moisture and amazing freshness.
Dense Breakfast gave us strength and mood.
Approaching Stockholm from the top deck of the ferry sounded damn native and familiar.
Its cozy houses with tiled roofs has caused a storm of emotions in the soul.
Seemed to life /images of childhood, inspired by the many tales of Scandinavian writers

Like swimming we are not in space but in time, going back many years ago.
In the best years, when the trees were large, and imagination is boundless.
When Karlsson and the Moomin Troll was more important than the rest of the world.
And there were no other worries.


After unloading on the dock Vartan, without delay, our tandem went.
We had tickets to Board the "Atlantic wanderer" the following from Denmark to Norway.
And we had a task not to be late to his departure.
Ten days to cross Sweden and Denmark.

The first upset of the day was associated with cheap grocery store "Netto" near Stortorget square, where all the past years have made the purchase before the opening throw into the Peninsula.
Or rather, his absence at the usual place.
Instead, there is located another grocery store - ICA
Something like our Patterson.
A rich selection of food and decent prices.
But there was no choice.
And a network of Swedish feeders for citizens was replenished a couple of hundred crowns out of our wallet.

Armed with a printout from Google this time I easily found away from the big city.
Once made a small hook at the end for some inexplicable reason, now with bike lanes.
But the blueberry bushes ate - a blessing in disguise.

Dima: My feelings will understand only one who for the first time to overcome the first kilometres of a long journey and not prepolagaet will there be enough will to get to the finish line, even when there is no confidence in their own abilities and a desire to overcome itself, and the idea, the lack of road feedback drives forward.
Of butter into the fire of doubt has added experienced veloputeshestvennikov (such as Ilya) strong and durable after thousands of miles of Hiking.
They listened to stories about our plans and just clicked his tongue, doubtfully shook his head and said, "Yeah, guys, well, you started" and learn that most of the route will pass through Norway, with its topography and weather, could see in his eyes that their doubts increased.
Elijah once asked me if I can go 100 miles a day with this difficult burden, even gently calling me "plump", but little did he know that a load of kilograms of excess weight, there are piles of muscles and limitless energy reserves.

It was already clear that the first days I will not be easy and my primary goal is not to lose the rhythm, to carry out normal day "plowing" and get from point a to point B, but the chips that had to sacrifice is the joy of nature, scenery, landscapes, architecture, etc.
This was caused by the desire in the first days to go only checked roads that the shortest distances between destinations, no forest trails and research educational outings and other things.
Yes, of course, I knew that Igor will be not very happy (it is still very much an understatement), but were counting on his support and understanding, especially because once he started on his way, making the first twist pedals in a strange land.

The nearest suburbs of the capital of Sweden - cozy uncrowded rayonchik of two to four storey residential buildings

Interestingly, apartments in the Kingdom are not for sale.
As a Swedish citizen and a foreigner may acquire the right to use the apartment, signed a contract with a private or municipal company owner.
Such companies, owns about 70% of the apartments, and only 30% is available private landlords (which are, in turn, controlled by the state)
Strict government regulation of housing issues is somewhat reminiscent of the Soviets.
In Sweden, the institution of registration by place of residence, all crossings must notify the tax office and "change" the apartment only with the consent of the housing office.
In addition, the purchased housing is not inherited: the only guarantee that the property will go to the descendants, is in advance concluded with them the contract of purchase and sale and the agreement about renting an apartment.

Private detached villas with cropped lawns and painted red paint falenskoe start a lot more of the city.
According to the laws of the Kingdom, that land is considered real estate, and the possession of it guarantees all those rights which are devoid of buyers of apartments in residential complexes located on the land of private cooperatives or municipalities.
However, the owners of the cottages also not fully protected from "social work" – at any moment they may be faced with the redistribution of land.
Moreover, the decision may be taken even without the consent of the landlord. However, this happens infrequently.

The weather was improving. To go was getting nicer and if not a little bit upset because in the middle of nowhere lost bike computer, life would be generally fine.
And so began the familiar places passed by me two years ago.
Hospital emergency rooms and recreation Park of Lida, which by noon was a small halt.
Departure from Stockholm is 40 km took about two hours

Lida has not changed for two years.
Before going, I carefully looked at her companion with a bringing the image to the maximum.
The same wooden houses, the same wooden platform for swimming near the shore.
The same great toilet with goraca water.
Dima has appreciated it.
He found himself a large neat and connoisseur of the field of personal hygiene.
There he hung for a long time and it was quite possible at this time to do something useful - well, for example to re-read War and peace or to disassemble and reassemble velosiped from boredom.
No idea how he was driving in the area where the heated toilets are not growing along the roads like mushrooms:)
However the absence of something accustomed even faster than stock.
People are amazingly adaptable creature

Although to be honest, watching all these ritual ablutions every day, by the end of our hike, I began to think otherwise.
I mean it may be I am a nasty dirty slut.
This problem still not quite resolved for myself.
In truth, every person is a storehouse of some of the habits inculcated during the years of life.
Be sympathetic to this.
In the end, people are not much different from Pavlov's dogs and conditioned reflexes they are not too alien.
I have them too, probably is.
Only I don't see them as used.
Well, for example the habit to eat in the mornings porridge welded on water without sugar and salt.

After trying a couple of times this snack, my friend flatly refused to consume it in the future, offering even throw his share into the nearest trash.
And I had some trouble to convince you to drive her some more
Well, at least until I eat or we go back home.
A compatibility issue in the campaigns is always very serious.
And culinary preferences, with seemingly perfect insignificance of this question, too, can impair joint movement.

Different complexion of our Dima organisms have assumed different amount of food.
Also, my friend was counting on turns out to lose weight for our trip.
And his plans did not include the cereal from which tolsteeg.
Sorry for some reason I found out about this is on mnatural.
But I have to admit to the credit of the partner in the end, we came to more or less acceptable mutual solution. Porridge has replaced a large number of "proteins".
Although I spent money a bit more than expected.
And porridge was taken on a hike later the house was finished almost six months:))))
Well, the basic principle -"and bread crust and the half" has not been canceled.:)

After two hours of fast-paced movement we reached the island of Merko.
The same island where two years ago we had the first night.
Now, however, it was only five o'clock in the afternoon and boldly rushed forward.
Benefit even at home I looked uedinennye beautiful beach on which to pitch a tent and throw tired bones.

And yet one is essentially a difference of familiar places was evident.
Rape. The vast yellow field of blooming canola two years ago.
They were not.
More precisely, they were, but they were not rape and were growing other crops.
And from that nature though slightly faded.
A riot of colors gave way to calm pastels.

Dima: the Difficulties of the starting period we are together and successfully overcome, the pace of the drive specified by the Igor suit me, to go slowly, but constantly, with a confident monotony ingesting kilometers is a reasonable solution.
Sometimes along the way I compared the us with the ships of the desert (don't want to use the word camels), which, despite the heat and bad weather Laden with baggage slowly overcome distances over many days, well, those horses on blestyashki and bikes that whiz overtook us along the way, they have a completely different problem (Although it very much sounded corny, but forgive me readers, I still wanted to say it).

The last one before the overnight halt in order to charge the brains with a portion of chocolate, caused the third unpleasanttrouble happened to me on the day (not too much for one day)

He was beautiful in its natural essence.
Soft curves chiseled body rested in proportion to nesobrannosti.
Anything that is redundant in the case.
Everything is just in order to exist in this world full of dangers and surprises.
Conveniently buried their jaws in my butt, the tick rhythmically sucked their portion of food for the day.
He didn't know who I am and where I'm going.
Just a piece of flesh. Food.
He knew nothing about the larger world, about the encephalitis and Lyme disease.
He was driven by primitive instincts of the wild insect.
Not his fault that the food was exactly me.
I just accidentally sat in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Around large cities and in Sweden there is an area of distribution of these most harmless of God's creatures. Fortunately cases of infection are rare.
However, relying on the theory of probability in matters of their own health destiny of young and do not value their people's lives.
For such old fart as we with Dima, this variant is definitely not passed.
And I always carried a yodanthipirina as a means of simulating the straw for the drowning.
So to chew food and to console themselves with a mental belief in the domestic pharmaceutical chemistry.
Who knew that the case will turn up so soon.

Ticks are not the beings that are given the joy of the people.
And the rest of the journey passed in a little depressed mood.
I because had an overactive imagination.
And Dima even more because the rich made the experience for both of us.
For me and for you as a potential victim:)

A few tens of kilometers searched the beach seemed on the shores of the beautiful lake and to my greater astonishment was occupied by a tent.
To see in Sweden, standing outside the tent camping like meeting a dinosaur on the streets of modern gorod.
Had to ride a bit more.
Could not be to bed we were not lucky.
And we were lucky.

Another smaller beach the first was completely empty.
Moreover there was the toilet.
Decisive factor.
Dima's eyes lit up for the first time in a couple of hours.

A first approach to Swedish ground our bodies took shape in the form of strong deep sleep.
Sleep washes away all the bitterness and fatigue of the passable roads.