Inhabited the Peninsula

Brachianticlinal in the first approximation

Day 2-3 (22.08.2008)


Nuclear city Shelkino met a typical nine-panel, which fully in the sleeping areas of any Russian city.
You can close your eyes and go back in twenty-odd years ago.

Only when it all began. When there was seething life of ordinary Soviet scientists and workers.
When people in the morning on foot or by Bicycle rushed to work for the station under construction, leaving their family in the beautiful young city, where they could relax by the sea , enjoy life and be confident in the future.


In 1984, the Crimean nuclear power plant was declared the all-Union Komsomol building.
Shcholkine was populated by young professionals, nuclear experts (graduates of the universities of Kiev) and having experience staff of Ukrainian NPPs.
It was named in honor of Cyril Selkina, Soviet nuclear physicist, corresponding member of the USSR Academy of Sciences.

Everything collapsed overnight.
After the termination of the financing and construction of Cries, more than half of the residents had departed, and the rest were abandoned to fend for themselves in the useless town.
People survived as best they could.
Someone went to work in Russia, someone engaged in illegal catching of sturgeon.
The city is deserted and impoverished.
The remaining young people were United in groups.
A wave of crime swept Kerchenski Peninsula. It was even called the Crimean Sicily.
On the Crimean NPP was the electrician of the famous Petro Babak - earlier repeatedly judged a repeat offender, a Boxing coach and expert on satellite TV systems, the initiator and inspirer of the most violent gangs in the Crimea 90-ies.

Shcholkine has become a Ghost town. It was often off the light and water. Work was no.
Tourists from the former Soviet Union, as is well known in the 90s went to Turkey Yes, Egypt.
The iron curtain fell and people rushed to the European and Asian resorts the level of service and comfort which have been completely different.
Nor was there in Soviet times no infrastructure for travelers. Solid industry.

And only in the early 21 th century, the human flow has reversed.
And Schelkino began to revive.
We have found it is a normal resort town, with a magnificent sandy beach, stretching to the reserve.
And the people on it were not as many as on the beaches of the Black sea.
A great place for families with kids. I really liked it.

Would be a perfect sin after dust and depressive experiences from nuclear power plants will not soak up a bit in the gentle waters of Azov.
My mood is a bit spoiled protectee backpack on his Adam's Apple juice, which I foolishly memory tore near the station.
Many times saw how it is sold in the bazaars for the money!
And here is a freebie:)

Adam's Apple (scientific name MCCLURE) — large fruit, up to 15 cm in diameter, with a wrinkled orange-green skin, the shape and color reminiscent of an orange.
Say that the extract from the fruit of maclura suppresses tumor cells.
In traditional medicine the milky juice of maclura used to treat various skin diseases and also for treatment of skin cancer, radiculitis, rheumatism, arthritis, hypertension.
So McClure this from the cut seeped onto my backpack.
And juice it was like superglue.
I have it does wash out neither then nor later could not.

Three hours spent on the beach, as well as a mug of beer Chernigov drunk with my friends at a bar had its benefits.
And legs again lobbied to get the road.
/> Shcholkine from the village of mysovoye separates ten minutes of fast driving.
Literally the blink of an eye by Cycling's standards:)

The village is located at the base of the reserve Kazantip.
To visit which was undoubtedly needed, if only to imagine what is there guarded by the omnipresent destructive human incarnation.

Aunt tour Desk selling permits directly from the local shop initially told us that today she had finished.
A visit fee is 20 grivnas from the person, if without a guide.
And supposedly you can only pay in Shelkino where the management of the Kazantip nature reserve.

But then, apparently realizing that three winded men with burning eyes , bear little resemblance to the employees of tax inspection called on the cell phone to the local game warden.
A few moments Bazaar and here we are given carte Blanche to enter from the East.
Huntsman needs to meet in one of the bays and take a little of the hryvnia black cash.

It should be noted that after mentioning about the payment Edik was posmorel face.
Negative attitudes to different kinds of cash spending, he probably adopted from its ideological mastermind Rinat inherited.

The Cape Kazantip is shaped like the head sitting on a thin neck, crossed wheels a matter of minutes.
And voila! Then we splashed water Arabat Bay and now, before the eyes of the vast expanse and Kazantip Bay of the Tatar.
Which is also a good sandy public beach.
From the end of which the rock begins and the rise in the walls Big Pots.
So in my free translation from Turkic is the title of the reserve.

Actually the Cape Kazantip - the Bottom of the Boiler - the extreme Northern tip of the Peninsula Kazantip.
In 1998 received the status of state reserve of Ukraine.

In General it should be noted that the Declaration of a zone reserved the only opportunity to preserve for posterity the nature of this place.
Our citizens are particularly ruthless in their behavior.
And is able in the shortest possible time to mess up and foul up any divine place.
And although as a tourist, I would like to visit freely any amazing places that, as a person, quite obvious was the correctness of such protective measures.
Money in reserves is not a pity.

Cape Kazantip is a type of boiler with a diameter of about 3-4 km and a maximum height of the ridge 107 m
The bottom of the boiler is 20-30 m above sea level.
On scientific it is called brachianticlinal (ovate convex-up fold), with a gentle inclination of layers on the wings.

Kazantip is not the crater of an extinct volcano.
It has emerged as the uplift of the seabed in the Sarmatian and mioticeskih century.
Some sources believe the Peninsula, the only Ukrainian Atoll.

Whatever was actually in the territory of the Kazantip nature reserve grow unique and relict plants - more than 600 species.
Many of them are listed in the Red book, but twelve species of plants are endemic, i.e. do not grow in any other place on Earth.
22 species of mammals and 80 species of fish, four of which are also included in the Red book of Ukraine.

With tridtsatimetrovoy height offering breathtaking views of the surrounding area.
And if you stand with your back to the Peninsula is perfectly visible both the isthmus and the Bay on either side.
Around the perimeter of the Peninsula offers a variety of cozy coves.

In one of the first our eyes beheld a naked sunbathing girl who saw us from below began frantically to call somewhere on the phone.
Perhaps she thought that our welcome shout nothing more than a battle cry wandering Nasrinof ICA.
Alien soul - darkness:)
In any case, we did not wait to see her personal blacksmith and went on.

Following the Bay captivated us completely.
And Edward said flatly - what remains here if not forever, then at night for sure.
Money huntsman will not give any scenario, because they watch for more than a hundred rubles on some blades of grass and pebbles he did not allow neither conscience nor education.

No sooner said than done.
Luggage dumped on the hill.
The captain is left alone with her and himself.

To be honest I was tormented by doubts. Cove was on the reserve.
And kempingovye here is strictly prohibited.

Meanwhile, Andrei went into the reserve, on the edge of the boiler.
However, it took about an hour before huntsman met on the way.
- You must have three! I was amazed he
- Left the third with a load down in the Bay! not palter we posted

A bargain at 15 USD a person.
Sasha (the name of the huntsman are changed for ethical reasons) offered us a card for 20 USD.
But I thought it unnecessary.
We had a few more hours maybe until sunset.
And the whole Kazantip to go round was unreal.

But a General impression is quite capable.
Dirt track circling the Peninsula allowed him to see both the coastline and the view of the bottom of the pot - medial part of the reserve.

Interestingly, when creating the protected area has decreased twice!
Of the 900 hectares of protected tracts Kazantip in the reserve included only 450 ha!
As a result, Kazantip nature reserve is a bagel, the hole in which the oil is extracted.
Yes, Yes be not surprised oil. Rocking was clearly visible.

In addition the local village Council, apparently after receiving bribes from who have gathered to allocate land for private homes in the center of the Peninsula!
There is no doubt that the owners will be engaged in active business activities.
In these farming allotments is clearly not the crops will grow, and visitors.
This will increase the threat of destruction of the ecosystem of the reserve.

Crimean ecologists are going to contact the authorities of the Crimea, to send a letter to the President of Ukraine Viktor Yushchenko, the Ministry of environmental protection to recognize the area in the center of Cape Kazantip a part of the Kazantip nature reserve.
But that is hard to believe that President Yushchenko this issue so important now.
He fights for power, money, nagging, fighting for gas. To the nature of the Crimea for him.

And recently in the center of Kazantip Bondarchuk launched a large-scale survey using armored vehicles and explosives.
An amazing fact how he got permission to do so.

The filmmakers received permission from the Ministry of natural and environment.
Only 100 000$ film on paper turned from fantastic to scientific and educational. Chief specialist of nature conservation of the Ministry Vladimir Getman said, the money was very much needed reserve to guard against oil production in the middle of Kazantip.
The money he allegedly wanted to build a fence that would protect the protected area from oil activities
As a result, the oil as extracted and the extracted!

Does this Ukrainian-canadian enterprise "Cristianita" which co-owner on the canadian side is the company "Epic Energy", which lands in the sublease gave the local farm.
Geologists claim that under the Kerch Peninsula oil and gas millions of tons.
By the way could not know about this and those who decided twenty years later to lay a nuclear power station.
From a-zand the ocean here was imported equipment worth nearly $ 10 million.

And Bondarchuk cheaply povzryvali plenty and potugal bit of land by the tracks of armored personnel carriers.
Technically of course he was filming a movie outside of the protected zone, but in fact certainly how it affected living in the area of animals and birds.
But it is not known who inflicted more damage - or he is constantly pumping oil to the Americans.

However, the height of any traces of the film it wasn't noticeable.
Whether Bondarchuk for a cleaned properly, whether his ugliness is greatly exaggerated.

The Ranger advised us to go to Blue Bay for a swim.
In addition there came on surface deposits of blue clay.
Here apparently the name.

The clay here in large numbers on the bottom of Azov.
Is quite a small excitement that is usually transparent, like rock crystal, the water gained a slightly bluish tint.
And that's when the waves fill the Cup of the Tatar Bay healing blue clay fractions occurring in the depths of Kazantip.
The scientific name of this clay - Kil.

There we go.
And he saw that no one in this realm of peace and tranquility.
On white penny to the whole family and a fat game warden that they are rubbing.
Apparently for the money out here and tour.
But the machine looked a pain in the surrounding pristine purity.
But apparently the Rangers everything is possible.

Seeing us, the fat man dropped everything and high-tailed jerboa for our souls.
Secret rubbing his hands and hoping to be in for a big fine.
But the magic name of the partner cooled his ardor. Huntsman wilted and returned to their wards.

The beach in some places have been excavated and at the bottom of the hole grizzled the same clay.
Then we found her in the water - there was even easier to scoop from the bottom.

Scientists attribute the birth of Qila prolonged exposure to sea on an ancient volcanic ash.
Externally it is a light gryabout-green clay, occasionally with a blue tint, very plastic, smooth and as if Malovata.
The last quality is widely used by people: Kil successfully replaced the soap, and after calcination - tooth powder.

It would be strange not to try that women money can buy in pharmacies.
Besides unknown quality.
And there was a natural product from the manufacturer so to speak:)

About the healing properties of blue clay has been known to mankind since ancient times and primarily as a means of water purification, fruit juices, wine and excretion from the human body of harmful substances.
It is actively used in the treatment of Avicenna and other ancient Greek healers.
Such unique healing properties clay has due to the fact that in its composition contains the most important for the body's chemical elements: 45,1% silicon, 14.6% of aluminum, 5.6 percent iron oxide, 4.4% of calcium, 4.2% of magnesium, 0.7% of titanium dioxide.

Due to the properties based on the features of mineral structure and the presence of many trace elements, black clay has a cleansing , anti-inflammatory effect. Keel makes the skin more elastic and smoothes wrinkles.

However to smooth out any wrinkles we had to hang around at least for a week, daily oiling themselves.
Because our action was rather a demonstration and research, rather than therapeutic in nature.

The naked men did not bother our neighbours, who soon left.
And we alone are left to represent themselves primitive people.
Scary beautiful in its original essence.
Andrew was young and athletic.
Clay only said the stately outline of its shape.
The role of the Progressor Maxim was him by the way.
And veltrusy is replaced by sparkly shorts Earthling.
As well as their absence too, though.
His old bony wrinkled body I do not give ExCuchitelle Saga the aesthetic sense of the readers:)
Even the blue clay layer has not made it more visually appealing

After naturist exercise in the Bay and bathing in the clear water to go should have been easier.
But clay had the opposite effect on me.
Causing the skin in the crotch pretty rough from the saddle before this once again became thin and sensitive to chafing.
Fortunately it didn't last long.

After seeing a dozen different coastal bays and whimsical rocks, went with Andrew back.
Aware of the abandoned hungry friend.

The highest point of Cape Kazantip - Kazantip mountain (107 m) is located in the East, on the top of the ridge. There in Soviet times was the lighthouse.
The cliffs and coves of Kazantip lot of funny names.
For example Fucking or stone Bay Rakovica.
But if the first name is most likely due to multiple droppings of the local birds, with Cercomonas harder.
Perhaps this is due to the depth of the Azov sea in the Bay.
There you can go 200 meters from the shore, and the sea will reach only to the waist well, or priests:).

The way back was faster because we were going the other way - away from the coast.
Before returning to he had to drive to mysove to stock up with food and water.

But finally, all the necessary manipulations done and we are back on the same hill where 3 hours ago left the captain chachu in the world better known as Edward,with all our stuff.

Edward greeted us with reproaches. He was lonely and hungry.
Everything else he had to work as a plumber. And according to his will.

While we were gone he pulled off the 20 foot slope down all the Luggage, put up a tent and just got comfortable, as he was caught the same fat Ranger who we met at the Blue Bay.
And his habit began to demand money or to get out.
But the captain was solid as a rock - no money, to go alone can not, friends out of town, a lot of things.
Then the Ranger suggested instead permit the bed to clean the surrounding area from the anthropological rubbish.

Favored by us Cove was too near the beginning of the reserve and here still wandered vacationers.
And because a certain amount of empty bottles, packages and etc all still present.
He had no choice but to accept the offer.
Maybe he overworked in this field, because subsequently reminded us of Andrew the fact that he was working as Papa Carlo while we were away.

The day was very tight on experience. And needed thorough relaxation at the end.

However, trying to spend the night at the reserve we did not consider one small fact.
The place chosen by us (and probably all similar bays of the reserve) was full of different kinds of animals.
Jumping, flying, crawling and floating.
Either before or after Kazantip I have not seen so many small annoying assholes here.
First of all locusts.
This is truly shameless creature.
Climbs in all holes, no one is afraid, and eats everything that is bad.
However, that is good - also eats.
It is very much at Kazantip.
When you go Cycling in the meadows of the reserve these insects fountains fly from under the wheels. At least those who have time.
It looks like there's not a poison, it breeds and thrives.

Then all sorts of crawling bugs, maggots and dvukhvostka. Itchy flies.
Some aquatic arthropods.
Finally rats.
When it got dark and we settled down in front of a tent for an evening meal rats are quite close approached to our table.
And only the light of headlamps we chased them for a while in the darkness of the stones.

In short a very comfortable dinner was not perfect.
Xodiles have to hurry while your piece-your mouth whipped out some God's creation of the red book.
Well, there is nothing you can do.
There was a struggle for survival, for food. And in natural selection, we still won due to his size.

A bottle of dry red Inkerman was somewhat brightened up by visits to the local zoo.
The captain categorically stated that to sleep in a tent among the rats he did not intend.
Took the sleeping bag and went up the hill, away from us and water.
And we with Andrey as the least fussy had fallen in bask of Bonser 3, previously spent some time on her disinfestation, the method of blunt visualware our little brothers in the area of their usual habitat.

Restful sleep but it did not work.
The world beyond the canopy of the tent lived his unknown night life, which did not abate for a second.
Quiet swarming, the tramp of feet, the squeak and rattle someone else's chitinous jaws, lapping water , rustling in the rocks. The person conducting the bulk of his life in the city difficult to abstract from such an abundance of nature sounds.
Even the fatigue of running day here didn't help.

About an hour we heard someone coming down to us from above.
It was Edward, not sustained sleep outdoors.
After, according to him, the locust painfully bit his ear he decided to sacrifice principles and get back to us.
The air felt humid and stuffy.
And inside the tent, where breathing three people, and even more so to sleep was hard.
But to open the canopy would be to invite unwelcome guests.

Finally closer to 3 o'clock in the morning managed to slip a little in a restless sleep.
Before I woke the captain, suddenly what stood up.
At first he sat silently as if in that listening, and then tossing and turning like a bull in a China shop, clumsily climbed out.
And disappeared out of sight.

When the dream started to smeshivat moand ever, Edward is back and in a whisper told me that in the sea near the shore someone walks.
Had to get up to see what scared him.
Crimean night, especially if there was no moon, almost pitch.
But that day, her hammer already started to gain completeness. And in the dim light in the distance really ugadyvaete the outline of a figure in a long cloak.
She stood motionless for a while, and then began to slide smoothly along the Bay.
Then back several times until he disappeared around the corner.

Who was it and why did he have to walk at night in shallow water Kazantip bays so has remained a mystery.
But it gave food for the imagination. And Edik then brightly told everyone about the sea Ghost appeared from pucinni waters.
And no matter what in fact it was some sort of a local resident who couldn't sleep that night. Most importantly, how it was interpretirovany.
After all around and all sorts of legends are born:)