Inhabited the Peninsula

Long live the naked body!

Day 5 (25.08.2008)

The night in sleeping bags on the shore for me was restless.
Unlike my young companions, I slept too sensitive.
Prevented the sound of the waves, and it was chilly.
Even with your head buried completely in the sleeping bag didn't completely protect itself from improved icy breeze.
Because the sunrise was a relief.



At the beginning of the hike we agreed to take turns to wash the dishes after meals.
But initially, the system was faltering. Especially I was dissatisfied with this situation Edward.
Maybe the status was not pozvolyali of course:)
Wash up it with obvious demonstrative displeasure.
Was no exception and this new day.
Moreover the captain initially woke up in a bad mood.
He was taciturn, frowning and scrunching his bushy eyebrows genecosta.
Probably still not the one I badly slept under the open sky of Zurbagan.

Some time spent on the beach under torpedo factory did not set us up for sports fashion.
The warm morning sun, the crabs emerge to bask on the stones and a naked woman loitering by land and water not too lifted bike the spirit, but uplifting



To get off the beach up was easier than down.
Bikes and things waiting safe and sound in transmission of Gidropribor.
Morning Ordzhonikidze had not yet swollen from the heat and the vacationers.
Watered with water wet streets breathed freshness.
In the Bay Provato plied the water surface a few boats.

To get to Koktebel on the highway, it is necessary to go around the long ridge Biyuk-Yanyshar stretching parallel to the mountain ridge Tepe-Oba.
Four years ago, we passed him on the opposite side on the bike, after passing the highest point - mountain Jan-Matoran.
You can refresht the memory of this -

Biyuk-Yanyshar with Crimean Tatar of "big Janissaries".
Janissaries were soldiers of the Sultan's guard in medieval Turkey.
During the time when Theodosius was called Kafa belonged to the Genoese in it flourished trade in goods and the slave trade, which brought the Cafe sinister glory.
This tidbit could not escape the attention of the Turkish Sultan and he was sent to take the city its fleet with the troops.
In 1475 g of a landing of the Turkish troops, part of which was made up of Janissaries landed in a Quiet Bay, located at the foot of the ridge, as the most convenient and secure.
The Turks captured Cafu, and the memory of their cruelty were perpetuated in the name of the ridge.

It is interesting that in 2004-2005, their descendants were the Crimean Tatars, too, landed in a Quiet Bay.
Though they came from the land.
And tried to seize a place in the construction of their homes. Actually, for the resale of land is very expensive.
Anything as a result did not.
Now, in the Quiet Bay is calm.

Buried on top of the ridge the poet Maximilian Voloshin wrote:

...Civil unrest combustible element
Shatter... will Put new age
In the everyday sloughs other mrei...
Decay days passes.
But heaven and earth - eternally the same...

On the slopes Biyuk-Yanyshar was filmed the famous film by Bondarchuk "9 Rota".
So Crimea Fyodor was chosen for their work for a long time and seriously.

Highway to Koktebel quiet. Machines little.
Progressors on their speed bikes left the Stranger behind.
And when I reached the main road Feodosi-Koktebel guys gone.
It is reasonable to consider that they drove in the town of cognac, went after him.



But found there only odnogo companion.
Andrew was patiently waiting for me on the sidelines.
Edik was not.
The next half hour went on rescanrd in the vicinity in search of the captain, who as it turned out was not in front and behind us, prokorov under some spreading pine.
And safely he reveals to us his master in that moment, when my nerves were already on the line.

Koktebel was jam-Packed with people. We already weaned from such accumulations of two-legged mammals.
However had lunch in the dining room and went to one of the beaches.
However bathed me and Andrew.
Edward sat sullenly on the pebbles further away.
Clouds the mood of the captain was growing from hour to hour.
Most likely it was something with health.
I then figured it out. He then Edward never complained, no matter how bad he was.
Because to understand why he's pouting at all and all was not possible.
Apparently the captain began acclimatization is the natural deterioration of health with the change of time and climate zones.
Usually this deterioration occurs on the second or third day and lasts a day or two.
But each is purely individual. Someone's body and does not respond to such.

To stay in the human nest was and we drove on.
Around the vineyards of the Koktebel winery.
Halfway between Koktebel and turn on the Spa have long known the selling point of solar berries.
Always if you follow this route there is a stop.
One of the indispensable conditions of stay in the Crimea - the maximum eating grapes - ampelotherapy.
Tried to follow this principle daily.
And if at first Edward incited by the teachings of the late Rinat preferred stolen from the fields of technical grapes, then was involved in the purchase.
Moreover, the difference in size and especially taste was clearer preaching.

What a pleasure in hot weather to sink their teeth into the tender flesh of the Chaush white.
Thin skin bursts from a minor push and the fragrant juice of the Head (namely, as translated from the Turkic title) a life-giving stream fills the cavity of the parched thirst of the mouth.

Near the trade, there is a small spring flowing from two pipes.
You can wash grapes and quench their thirst.
However, I did not stop.
Scored a liter bottle of water and moved over the next few sparse bushes ( by the way capital crappy, so I had to look for a place free from human faeces)
And washed with soap from head to toe. Precisely the opposite course.
Water in the Crimea is soft, washed out bad and had to put a maximum of skill to keep within the allotted myself normal.

Near the village of shchebetovka road branches off towards the village Resort.
By the way, I do not like the Soviet the names of settlements.
Shchebetovka was previously known as Otuz.
As emerged in the early XX century, the resort village was called Lower Otuz flowing into this place in the sea, the river Otuz.
In 1945 during the massive renaming in the Crimea, the resort has received the name of the Crimean littoral, and in 1978 the name of the Resort.
And Koktebel by the way was Planersky.
Fantasy Soviet times was simple and straight as a Telegraph pole.
Resort - because there is a rest on the sea.
The gliders - because they fly from the local mountains.

Our ultimate goal - the Fox Bay.
And get to it in principle possible on the dirt road starting near the village.
But I decided to try at the beach walk from the Resort.



Quiet and cozy village Resort is located in a coastal valley surrounded by the scenic mountain ranges of Kara-Dag volcanic massif and the foothills of mount Echki-Dag.
I believe this is the last place on the southern coast of the Crimea almost untouched altinyazi.
That's what I call a bustling city with tons of people, bars, restaurants, discos and jam-Packed beaches.

The village seemed stuck in time.
Signs of the modern entertainment industry and if it touched it quite a bit.
It reminded me of the walleye sample in 1998 year.

Ride on cozy promenade until the end, we saw a shed with an inscription "SHOWER".
I was washed, but the boys caught fire.
And wash a little disturbed.
However the shower was closed.
How did soon figure out basic rode a catamaran with a bunch of girls. Had to wait for him on the beach.

After an hour and a half the owner pomyvochnaya office decided to come to the workplace.
It turned out that there is no hot water.
But bezrybe cancer and fish.
Having owed a fee, the guy went on to squeeze girlfriends.
And we had to show balancing act miracles and uncommon skill, washing and washing clothes in the cramped booths, where in addition to the ice water flush was not working.

However, the mood from the feel of clean body rose to dizzying heights.
And the next hour was spent drinking local wine and cheese in a coastal restaurant.
When consciousness came in proper condition is vague, the commander ordered the upgrade.
Night was falling, and we are waiting for Fox Bay.

The woman selling seeds to the bicycles go along to the desired place replied in the affirmative.
Though recently there was a small crash, but nothing like all go and do not buzz.
Well, if you really despicable plans, zhuzhat we all sin and doubt.
No sooner said than done.

Can't say that I'm very sorry about that listened to old women.
But the path was not strewn with roses.
Roll velosipedy on their own had almost a third of the way to Liski.
There were stones in bulk. Mostly large and very large size.
On small so-called'obvalchik was a scattering of stone blocked the former is bad, but still trail.
To drag every bIKE with baggage had two and three, dragging them through the rocks.
Several times I had to remove veloryukzaki, and move in a few iterations.

The captain, completely exhausted.
But tolerated although occasionally were going on and that I had to go riding.
Andrew kept a stiff upper lip. It all was uneasy.
Hardening Progressor and a gigantic human body of the future worked like clockwork.
Although carry on their road bikes over the rocks is much more inconvenient than my mountain bike.

In one place the rock collapsed leaving only a small hole, in which all pressed hunched.
How did we push through there again and the bike remains a mystery.
From fatigue and stress swayed from side to side.
And unfortunately nobody took a picture like we did.

Edward silently nozzles, and a pen furiously in front of everyone.
I, as usual, closed the procession.

Finally Fox Bay seemed for the next turn of the coast.
Citadel nudity.
The place where neither men nor women ashamed of their natural appearance whatever it was.

Some 20 years ago to get here was almost impossible.
Here was the forbidden border zone. Military units were stationed in the Karadag and in Pryvitne.
The coast was patrolled by selenoorganic.
With the collapse of the Union of militaristic acumen of the authorities has weakened.
And naturists were pulled into the Bay.
The place was absolutely wild, you can get it only on the beach or a mountain pass.
But the road there is like a roller coaster. With steep ascents and descents.
By car, if it's a jeep, drive quite realistically.
People were not dragged everything you need - food, tents, sleeping bags.

But if there is demand - will offer.
First, the local entrepreneur was organized in early Bay stalls and cafes.
Then a gold mine smelled Crimean Tatars and drove pervoprokhodtsyand.
Now this place is called Piccadilly.
The Tatars had built their Shalmanov . The road through the pass leveled by bulldozers.
And Liska increasingly began to call regular vacationers plans.
And with them as usual shit and garbage.
The naturists had to make room.
Before random people were not here
To steal someone else's tent, to pull someone's backpack before it was simply unheard of. Now – alas.

Piccadilly began clashes between traders with the massacre and pogroms.

Garbage really Liska was a lot. 3-4 years ago this was not.
If the original wildness in the Liska was natural and original, now civilization, to pick up, brought the savagery of modern man

And recently undeveloped expanses were interested in one of the largest construction corporations.
TMM company received a long-term lease area of 50 hectares, that is, the whole Bay and the adjacent territory.
According to the project, then you should see the hotels, restaurants, Marina and other benefits of civilization. All this promoted the mayor of Feodosia.
His representative stated that " we must on the one hand, to keep the Fox Bay and purify it from "people who are not friends with the law, and people who are not right in the head", and with another — to create a "normal recreational complex of the European type".

But then the mayor died suddenly, and it stalled.
But the piece is too tasty to be able to count on the fact that the realm of the naked body there still remains many a long time.
And have the Rastafarians, Indians, hippies and other persons outside tradicionnogo social behavior to look for another place.
Or maybe everything will remain as it is. Power - beetle in the anthill. I sit pomorochitsya obretet back home and realizing that ants too much.



Before the Bay was called "Bald" because ofBlazhennyj cliffs, towering over her. Over time the name transformed into "Fox Bay", although to foxes that live on land, and sea foxes living in the sea, this place has no direct relationship.
But some believe he has. So go figure who is right.

The whole Bay is divided into areas. For example: Cuba, Jamaica, Chukotka, Tortuga, etc
Its length is about 4 km.
A sand and pebble beach.
The slopes of the mountain Echki-Dag ravines abound, the so-called blue volcanic clay (a Tr) and Kazantip. People here used instead of soap.

By the way here recently too, made the film. "New earth" - Russian Director Miller.
According to the Director, Fox Bay was turned into the North island.
Filmmakers were not allowed ecologists to the place of shootings.
But the staff of the Karadag nature reserve learned that the leaders of the highest of the arts was cut down seven trees Elaeagnus silver to set up, and the tractor plowed the slopes where grow rare species of plants.
Of course, the crew has pledged to plant trees, but according to biologists, there will be dozens of years before the seedlings will grow and cover the scars on the earth.



Wheels sinking in the sand we were two-thirds of the Bay.
The tents were quite a lot. And around them swarmed ratnamala naked public.
To me this picture was not unusual, but the guys staring in amazement. However Edward seems to have been on its last legs, because it never even clicked the camera.
Finally we found a more or less open area and decided to pitch our camp here.
Edward immediately put the foam and collapsed dead on the sand.
Any attempt to clarify his health to nothing lead.
So he lay motionless, until Andrei and bathed and put up the tent.
Dinner is also refused.
However dinner is not managed properly.> The wind picked up and had to chew porridge mixed with sand and a Tr.



The night was also restless.
The wind became hurricane force. And all night we stayed up and kept the tent.
Arc bent to the ground, but stayed.
Sand hammers pounded on the tent.
They swept past disrupted less stable dwellings of the natives, whose things.
Bay didn't sleep that day.
Somewhere in the middle of the night heard someone passing, said,
- Look what a cool tent! Durable !
A trifle, but nice. Bask Bonzer 3 do not disappoint.
He would even storm skirt on the perimeter.
I remembered how 4 years ago the same night was given to us in a Quiet Bay near Koktebel.
Tent Lafuma then did not behave in an example of the worse in similar circumstances.

In General, the second sleepless night in a row.
The case where the dawn is greeted with relief