Inhabited the Peninsula

Military Zone

Day 4-1 (24.08.2008)


- Build! Equal! On the second-to rascits!
Bulging eyes unblinking fighters looked ahead of him.
White povorotniki a thorn loomed on the necks of the recruits.
On the parade ground slowly walked around dressed in rags Sergeant, looking haughtily entrusted to him by the platoon.
And savagely looking for to whom else would be picking on trumped-up reason.
His indifferent fish eyes glided over the line.
The soldiers froze, holding his breath so as not to inadvertently attract the fatal attention.
By law, he would choose someone who exudes animal fear.
To mock the weak is easy.
Closer and closer the creaking of the polished boots, all inevitability.....

The ceiling of the tent and the fly frantically beating in a hanging shelf is what I saw when the dream suddenly left me.
The sun was already up.
- First or second! First or second!
Children's voices clearly sounded over the beach.

Sticking his head outside, I saw the pupils of some local sports camps, whose body was located on the road.
They were taken to the beach for morning exercises and water therapy.
My fighters were still sound asleep, discordant voice filling the tight space of the tent.

Worked on new bike day, promising us a lot of interesting experiences.
I chose a path different from the one he had in these parts previously.
Because I wanted to see something new in the seemingly hundred times izezzhena place.
This time the target was a ridge Tepe-Oba and Cape Ilya.

The vast arc of the Feodosia Bay closed West of this Cape.
And on the East by the Cape of Chauda, which is another military training of the Ukrainian army.
Some believe that it is from him and not from the landfill at Cape Opuk launched the rocket With-200.

Very tempting Kerch Peninsula in its southern part, but militaresque and pioneer Park aviary.ednie area make it inaccessible for the average Bicycle rider.

By the way two years ago, the Cabinet of Ministers of Ukraine intends to transfer the polygon Chauda Cape Tarkhankut.
This would mean the end of the wild beautiful places for free travel.
Puskova installations, revetments and barracks stood there, instead of tents.
Fortunately, the public stood chest to protect Tarhankuta. The decision to move was reversed.
But now near Olenevka are going to create a protected zone - a national Park with partial access or full otsutstviem such.
According to the Presidential decree of 27 August 2008 on the territory of Ukraine a network of 19 national parks.
One of them is the Park "Beautiful harbour", the name of the ancient Greek city of Kalos-Limen, once located on the territory of the Tarkhankut Peninsula, located.

So that is still part of the Tarkhankut will soon cease to be travelled.
But there will be those mountains of garbage that have accumulated in those regions over the years of wild tourism.
Who was about the "Bowl of love" - will not lie.

Digression finished and gorgeous trio went on the assault first in this campaign of heights. Before to reach the ridge had to drive through the whole Theodosia. I will not dwell on the description of the city itself, it can be read in one of my previous reports

After the sea port starts district Feodosiya "Chita business elite" (the Citadel Kaffa).
Antique cocktail from the ruins returns in times of Genoese Kaffa and the Turkish KEF (the old name of Feodosia in the protectorates of Italians and Turks).
So well the ancient walls are preserved only in Sudak and Balaklava.

Even the terrain now called Distemper, because in the middle of the castles, walls and churches 14-17 centuries are morgue and children's hospital.

Originally I had intended to go round Cape Elijah on the beach.
But it was notverejnosti of what is possible.

Our cavalcade passed the Fortress, he found himself in Quarantine.
Quarantine - a title inherited from the times of the Genoese.
District Quarantena, from the Italian quaranta giorni.
40 days, so much was given to ships arriving from afar if you suspect that they brought the plague or another epidemic.
It was considered that 40 days is enough to see dead if someone of the crew members from an incurable disease or not.

Part of the Quarantine attached to the sea - it is a working Town.
Scary shacks reminiscent of a Brazilian favela.
They are here since the 30s, when the Soviet authorities forced the fishermen to join in the farm.
There is the old fish farm under the poetic name of "Wave of Revolution" - a legacy of the Bolsheviks.

Now local residents rumours about the demolition of the campsite.
There are going to build something - whether historical and tourist complex whether luxury villas for those in power.

The sea trail slipways - a kind of garage for storage of boat or yacht with rails into the water.
Rails for trucks, which with the help of special winches, the boat is launched.

And then we didn't go.
Then begins the territory of the alleged secret military unit of the black sea fleet of Russia.
Local as obscure answered the question about the possibility of her escape.
Either did not know or simply do not want to help.

Later I found out that the road there still there.
Is it from Quarantine, to the right of the military base and down in the Dvuyakornaya Bay.
Say they built it somewhere in 1905, when they built a powder mill in Dvuyakornaya (Ordzhonikidze).

As a result, we decided to go back a bit and climb the ridge Tepe-Oba side - from the numerous garden farms is located at its foot.

The name of the ridge translates from the Crimean Tatar language as the pinnacle mountain or in the sense of the end of the mountains.
And indeed, after this ridge of the Crimean mountains gives way to plains.
But we were moving in the opposite direction and the mountains for us was just beginning.
The height of the ridge 302 meters.
But until we found the track had a lot of trouble.
We went completely intuitive, choosing paths on a whim.

During one of the halts found an abandoned fruit trees.
But plums and apples were small and sour.
Near the fence was someone's unfinished Villa. The station looked abandoned.
Edward and Andrew decided to do a little parabolicity.
To appeal to conscience was useless.
The captain, as an old soldier, was not at all familiar with this concept, and Maxim, as representative of the bright Communist future, naively believed that on this planet, everyone can get anything to meet your needs.

While I relaxed on our bikes, my colleagues methodically peeled a pear tree.
And then there was a stage drama which was clearly not an Amateur in the humor.

When Edward Andrew came out of the bushes with a huge bag nabity unripe fruits on the other hand, out of nowhere appeared a woman in ages.
And briskly rushed to us.
Edward, seeing the woman, showed remarkable reaction.
Fish he threw himself on the ground and quickly sathariel bag in a roadside grass.
I'm ashamed to think that this aunt got them for theft and already foresaw the unpleasant showdown.
This idea got stronger after coming up, the woman without a shadow of a smile said: give me the Money! and held out his hand.
We looked at each other awkwardly.
- Let's have it! repeated aunt
While I was thinking how to respond, the woman burst out laughing:
- What frightened dove! I was joking!

In General, it was found that she is a little crazy person.
Had some time out of politeness to listen to her streamOsmania on various topics.
Barely escaped.

The top of Tepe-Oba could be seen far ahead.
Despite the clear day, she was enveloped in a light fog.
Like a giant veil-gossamer weightless he swayed above the trees.

Finally after another hour the trio of valtessiniko left the forest growing on top of the ridge straight to naezzhennuju primer.

It was a road leading to a military unit and lighthouse.

At Cape Ilya has a warehouse of Russian black sea fleet and air defense systems s-300, not sure who owned.

And structure of the Feodosia water utility - sewage treatment plants and absorption fields. (found of course a place where shit to sort out!)

At breakneck speed, desperately roaring motor, flashed white penny showering a cloud of white dust.
We barely had time to leap to the sidelines.
The car was driving towards Cape Ilya.

This Cape is the extremity of the ridge.
The beach here is rocky, many shallows , which is very dangerous for navigation.
However, the lighthouse here was established only in 1899, And thanks to a virtual miracle.
It was built on the money of the wife of state Councilor Rukavishnikov, which was cured in Feodosiya from tuberculosis of his terminally ill son, thanks to the sea climate.
The lighthouse mounted optical apparatus of the Swedish system of Lindbergh, who successfully worked for more than 100 years.
And only recently it was replaced by a modern led.

There is information that soon on the Tepe-Oba are going to create a nature reserve.
However, in contrast to reserve access to tourists will be open.
But probably will to take money as in the New world.

There are a lot of rare plants, including the endemic (not growing anywhere else in the world) - the Flophouse Turchaninov
This is the bare glaucous shrub youhundredth of 15-20 cm.
This plant, listed in the Red book of Ukraine, was not observed in nature for about 40 years and even considered extinct, but was rediscovered in 1996 in the amount of about 5 thousand individuals.

In addition to natural Oldtimers on the ridge of many archaeological treasures.
On the Tepe-Oba was once a necropolis of ancient Theodosia and a number of mounds.
Some of them by the way study of the famous artist I. K. Aivazovsky in 1853, having received official permission from the Ministry of Appanages to the archaeological site.

In addition to rebate there was discovered a circular crushed stone piles and the remains of ceramic pipes.
Theodosia engineer Siebold suggested that so here is extracted from the water using stones as condensers.
The average daily temperature difference on ostyvshie stones from atmospheric air, settled couples, is converted into drops of water. Flowing down, drops gradually filled the Cup, arranged in each of crushed stone piles.
Collected in this way water was supplied to the city cisterns and pottery making water pipes.

He even thought to repeat the experience of their ancestors and built a similar capacitor itself in the early 20th century
That is what we passed on the way to the radar domes.
A capacitor Siebold completely overgrown with bushes and it is easy to overlook.
It is a round pool with a diameter of 20 meters.
According to eyewitnesses,the capacitor gave 360 liters of water per day.

Subsequently, the researchers were denied speculation Siebold. Found crushed stone pile was an ordinary funerary structures - burial mounds.


The forest grew on the ridge is a man - made landing.
They are protected by local lesnichestvo. And technically, access to the Crimean forest is prohibited from may to October in view of the large fire.
On hearing the recent case of a large fire in the Crimean nature reserve, which is arranged by a tourist who's lost around a campfire.
As a result, burned many acres of the most valuable species of trees, and the tourist is facing up to 6 years in prison.

And 1965 on the site of the landings was a tank firing range.
So you can imagine what was the density of the shooting iron in these places.
Vacationers and could not conceive to appear here.
I would have shot without batting an eye, as American spies.

And, as if to confirm this, towards us came a cyclist.
From him we learned that at the entrance of the ridge from the highway there is a military patrol.
And no one is allowed.
Whether just because of the fear of fire, or because of the objects that there are.
The man asked if we saw a bit further more patrols.
We of course didn't see it because did not go the normal road as the people rushed foolishly on a steep slope through the thicket.
Who's going to ambush nowhere.
And on the left.

Very close to whitened huge mushrooms-raincoats radars, electronic intelligence, early warning.
Local call from domes. There we go.

The radars were at a glance.
And nearby on the hill is located the old friend - altimeter PRV.

It was all the components of the air defense missile complex s-75.
It's hard to say whether it is in working condition. But apparently it is guarded and what is a glimmer of life there.

I was flooded with memories of distant youth.
When I was passionate and hot as my companions.
And trampled the far Eastern land tarpaulin boots for the benefit of his Soviet homeland.
Remember how we were hiding the guardhouse during all locators.
The radiation from them is decent.
The guys told me that as a bigot hung the cat to the emitter of the ROC.
Then hernyali. The cat was still alive, but completely bald.

Quite infernal landscape opened to our view from the height of three hundred meters made in silent delight stopping of the heart.
Western slopes of Tepe-Oba and the valley of the Dvuyakornaya Bay - treeless, hilly terrain.
If still red you could imagine that we are on Mars.
The surface is bumpy like the skin of a giant beast.
Mystique gave a slight mist, gently retouch Dolne plans.
It was formed probably due to the temperature difference. The bottom was thick , and there is a pleasant coolness.

Frankly, more meditative space I in the Crimea is not seen.
Here is to climb and to sit a long time looking thoughtfully into the distance.
Enjoying the silence, the gentle breeze and thinking about the meaning of life or the frailty of existence.

Half an hour later we started down.
Barely distinguishable path wound down the hills.

And brake pads in our bikes had to get excited holding back growing with every meter the pressure of the force of gravity.

The beauty of the Crimea, indescribable.
It is remarkably diverse within a small area.
And in one trip you look like you are in several different countries.

Crimea - as a shampoo 3 in 1.
It purifies the soul , cleanses the brain and heals the body.
Every time I confess to him in deepest love and devotion for the rest of my years.