In search of the Moomin-Dole

Brando - fog, bridges and Nirvana

Chapter in which Mumia feeding wild geese, mows the grass and meditates, Hatifnats produces fish with my bare hands,cook mulled wine, and mercilessly exploits women ventrolateral core , Little my happy brand skinny man, and hemul unhappy staring at Kukai Huniu

Mileage: 65 miles | Weather: +17 (rain)


The gloomy morning of a new day did not promise this time the ease of pedaling.
When in Scandinavia there is no rain and the sun every time waiting to see what the next day will be much worse.

But it teaches you to appreciate every nice day, enjoying, and imbibing it at the drop of the entire body.
Early morning rise - the need to catch the first flight and just a balm on my wounded charges long eternal soul.
It is a pity that the ferry we met a couple of times on the way:)

The Marina was in sight and when went, coming from the sea our boat, we were already ready.
The people were few, it was evident that the crossing this was plusmin.

Massive full Finn in a black leather jacket with interest at us.
His name was Paul and he was travelling solo on a motorcycle on the åland Islands. As a wife left at home. Paul said that it is very thick and her motorcycle just will not stand:)
Talked mostly with Paul Andrew.
His almost perfect English allowed him freely to understand foreigners.

In addition to Finn full on the ferry were a couple of good-looking pensioners on bikes - they also traveled to the Islands.
Sad thought about how much of a difference in how to meet old age in Russia and here in Scandinavia.

The ferry sailed at 7 a.m. right on schedule.
Those twenty minutes until he sailed to Hakkenpaa Paul is actively interested in the Neleus. Photographed it inside and out. Obviously his gimmick was her bright Oriental appearance.
The ferry is not free and costs 4 euros from the nose.
We could save money if I went for a longer ring road and fact is the price for being lazy

Ferry in the archipelago of Turku are divided into two categories - "Yellow" ferries (lossi), which is free and walk short distances between large neighboring Islands and the "White" ferries (yhteysalus) operating on longer routes, involving several smaller or more remote Islands and charging a small fee for travel.

Retirees as utopili on their bikes that quickly left us far behind. Once again convinced in the advantages 28ми inches on the wheel.

Weather deteriorated after the city Taivassalo.
Loaded nasty Finnish all-pervading rain. We all bundled up in their protective clothing and took care of the velorjukzakov.

Julia's outfit was matched by the St. Andrew's hoodie.
Bright orange coat below the knee is perfectly protected it from the weather, and you can see this colour was from afar.
Nevertheless quickly enough the General dampness took its toll. Even the shoes didn't help much.
Soon the water zahljupalo in my socks and snot, as usual, began to gather around the fist.
I blew my nose I ukratko because this process is why much annoyed my date.

Like manna from heaven after the turn near the town of Kustavi at the curb seemed like a kiosk, where they sold freshly prepared Aland fish.
Its smoked and grilled on the grates in the street.
Several varieties of red and white fish spread is deliciously mouth-watering smell along with smoke! The Kustavi area is famous for its salmon.

This was the so-called Kustavin kalakioski.
Such places make fish quite a bit in this part of Finland.
Here is used for preparation of the same methods as in ancient times, when doctoressie the people who inhabited these places, preparing meals from wild-caught fish.

On the grill installed conical grate, which actually thtowels fish.
We dismounted near the wooden canopy and Andrew rushed over to purchase.
Menu of this fish shop, despite the limited range, actively promoted salivation.
Our choice was suggested loimulohi - fried salmon, savusiika - white smoked fish, savulohi - salmon hot smoked and finally kylmаsavulohi - cold-smoked salmon.


Soon our Admiral came back with a shiny polyunsaturated fat fish with a Golden crust. Andrew rolled for 10 Euros.
Not cheap of course, but it was worth it. Delicious food, each of us is not eaten probably in the last years of his life.
decent size fish was wrapped in foil and gave off a delicious aroma.

Has long been known that fatty fish species inhabiting the Northern seas, such as mackerel, salmon or sardines are sources of essential human omega-3 fatty acids.
In humans they are not produced, but is extremely necessary for preventing vascular disease.
By the way high life expectancy of the peoples living by the sea is partly explained by the large consumption of fish.

I'm not a big connoisseur of fish. What we ate was like a large bream or tench.
White melting in the mouth hot piece of meat with a pinches of went in his mouth wrinkled from the rain sandowski fingers.
And grace the bliss of satiety a warm wave spread throughout the body.


For hot Smoking the fish retains all its beneficial substances and vitamins(although cold Smoking even more)
Hot Smoking is a treatment at a temperature of 45-60 degrees for 1-5 hours, in fact it is a fried piece of fish, just with the scent of smoke.
Although fInna come up with prisorine outlet smoke when Smoking.
Because it contains a lot of harmful carcinogenic substances that reduce have delicious health benefits.

A few years ago, former French President Jacques Chirac has hurt Finnish feelings, saying that they have their own "kitchen".
But it is more of a national pride, Finnish cuisine is based entirely on ecologically healthy food - fish.

The rain subsided a bit. However, to get out from under a dry roof is not really wanted.
Our girls are a bit cheered up.
Especially Nelia is even sad to watch when she's cold. Julia was more trained.
Kushani, Shoe covers , pouches, gloves and go!

After a few minutes we rolled into the town of Kustavi(Kustavi) - center of the homonymous province in the Western Finland.
This area is a popular area for summer recreation for the Finns, here in oruge located approximately 3,000 cottages that can be rented for living and fishing.
Here in August takes place the famous Salmon market (Lohimarkkinat) salmon fish market.

Our goal was the only large supermarket in the area. The stock of provisions to Supplement, not to gnaw with hunger the lichen on the Islands:)
Yes, and to wander in the heat among shelves bursting with food was not the bad thing
Bikes we always left outside nariadenie, and only a bad Russian habit to fear of theft is a little gnawing on the inside of a troubled conscience.


Immediately after Kustavi first ferry - Kivimaa-Vartsala. Not yet on the åland Islands , but only on the largest island of the archipelago of Turku - Pohjametsa
The ferry here is small, like a Shuttle here and there continuously and are based on the cable system when the movement is carried out similarly to manual paroMiku in the beginning of our journey on the Saimaa canal, with the only difference that pulls the cable is not stuck to the human hand and the motor.

The road through the island with a length of 6 km to the next ferry takes about fifteen minutes, if not to take into account a stop at a notable monument - iron green skeleton in a helmet and eaten by the fish in the hand.
It is located at the turn to Tuuviikintie and to see it you have to know where he is. Green it merges with the surrounding nature.

From a place Osnas delievered directly to the Aland Islands, and more precisely to the island of Ava one of the Islands of the commune of Brando
Ferry service between the numerous Islands in the åland archipelago carries a local company Alandstrafiken and what is most important - they are absolutely free for pedestrians and cyclists.

We arrived successfully and ferry called Viggen was not expected. He was standing at the pier for loading.
The ship is quite comfortable, there are even cabins.
We sat in the common room with numerous other tourists and travelers.
The journey takes forty-five minutes.
Due to bad weather on the deck is uncomfortable and thus nature has deprived the pleasure to watch the approach of the rocky shores

Aland Islands (the old name princes ' Islands) is an archipelago in the Baltic sea at the entrance to the Gulf of Bothnia.
On the East border of the Finnish Archipelagoes sea and the Turku Archipelago.
Consist of 60 inhabited Islands and more than 6,000 uninhabited, with a population of about 26 thousand people.

Aland Islands is an Autonomous province of Finland, but the official language Swedish.
It happened after the Aland crisis in the 20s of the last century, when after the revolution in Russia, Finland gained independence and became a separate country.
And the Swedes inhabiting the island asked to be part of Sweden. But Finland did not want to give up part of its territory just like that.

A dispute broke the League of Nations (today's UN).
Finland retained sovereignty over the Islands, but was obliged to guarantee the population of the Islands the preservation of the Swedish language, culture and local customs. This decision was recognized by the people of the Islands.


In addition åland is a demilitarized territory.
There are no military units, naval or air bases of the armed forces, and in contrast to all other citizens of Finland, the inhabitants of the åland Islands are not recruited for military service (it is well settled isn't it?:))
And also prohibited the possession and carrying of any firearms, except for hunting.


Low gloomy sky of Scandinavia, ragged grey clouds and a white mist filled with moisture.
So I met four cyclists Aland Islands.
To leave the womb of the ferry anyway, to go into space.

Åland is a favorite place for cyclists all over the world.
There are quiet roads with low car traffic.
Between the Islands is spanned by picturesque bridges and a lot of beautiful places for rest and fishing.

On the Islands there are no Railways, but there are local bus lines.
Road vehicles registered in åland, license plates with blue lettering, an aspiring AL.

All the åland Islands are divided into districts commune.


Brando municipality consists of many Islands the largest of which Ava, Jurme, Fisko and in fact Brando.
They are connected mainly with bridges or embankment dams.
The road through the island is mostly alone, except for the small branches from it to the sea, to private homes or to the neighbouring Islands
This Royal postal road, in ancient times, from Finland went to Sweden.
In some places, even worth a traffic sign depicting a horn is a symbol of mail in Scandinavia.
It is completely deserted and asphalt of excellent quality.

The island of the commune of Brando some of the most picturesque Aland Islands.
Sorry the weather did not allow us to enjoy nature to the fullest.
However, we still sneaked through the surrounding rocky hills in those moments when the rain stopped pouring from the heavens.

Although the rocky soil of the Islands is covered with only a thin layer of the earth, but still it gives enough power to the spruce, pine and juniper.
The latter has the appearance of a small shrub and so unlike the Crimean relict juniper.

Tundra vegetation Islands Brando concise and expressive.
The local hills almost devoid of trees, covered nicorola juniper and various kinds of mosses, of which special attention was drawn to a pale green lichen.

Julia, as a native northerner, told us that moss supposedly grows only where the air is pristine and where the environmental condition of the noosphere close to the ideal.
Maybe it was close to the truth. The clean air which I breathe, and breathe, which were intoxicating and intoxicate the mind is akin to a light wine, contributed to the aforementioned juniper.
You know it is the most intense among the other woody plants emit phytoncides - volatile biologically active substances kill bacteria.
For example, during the day, one hectare of juniper evaporates almost 30 kg of volatile production (this is enough to cleanse the atmosphere of large cities from pathogenic organisms).

Nelia was in a foul mood from moisture and coolness, it was evident that she was struggling with this ispytanie, but nevertheless obediently walked behind us on moss-covered coastal rocks.
In General, the local flora was a storehouse of vitamins. Mumla well versed since childhood in all sorts of medicinal herbs, and for her there was just freedom. In any case, she scored a broom

Shoes booties soft springs in the wet grass and lichen.


The lichen or reindeer moss is a remarkable plant. If you look closer you will see that this branching hollow tubules similar to a sponge.
When wet they are soft and dry and brittle and easy to croatica.
The uniqueness of the lichen is aksenovoy acid contained therein. This is a very strong antibiotic that can kill even the TB Bacillus.

Thus in contrast to synthetic antibiotics produced by man moss does not violate the intestinal microflora.
No wonder in the old days it was used by the inhabitants of the Northern territories for the treatment, conservation of game and food storage. Moss wrapped in raw meat could be stored for weeks.
This moss grows very slowly, only 15 mm per year. Amazing how nature works - as something useful, so it grows slowly, and like a weed useless, so at least oblique Kosi.


From the top of the hill as possible to the mist, were seen mnogochocinco small Islands are scattered in the nearby sea.
Interestingly, all of the 6,500 Islands are privately owned (except one - Kobba Klintar.
This island is uninhabited. It only preserved the house of pilots, which in the past helped conduct the court through the rocky Straits between the Islands.) However almost everywhere are allowed to walk, if not to litter and not to bring inconvenience to their owners.

This so-called "Universal right of everyone"(allemansratt). A privilege of every citizen and guest of the Islands.
It is almost identical for all the Scandinavian countries.
The only difference for åland lies in the fact that to stay overnight in the tent camping out here is formally prohibited.
For the reason that whole earth is somebody's private property.
The land immediately after birth gets into the possession of every resident of the Islands and can continue to dispose of it as he pleases.
The only thing that is impossible is to interfere with the Allemansratt.

If in the distance softly lapping current of the sea, beneath your feet lies another berry. A huge amount of blueberries and blueberry, a roadside strawberry.
It was silly not to take advantage of the gifts of nature. And soon the fingers and lips turned black from our life-giving SAP of the Northern fruit of the ground, I was able to absorb their weight.
But our girls prefer the strawberry - she's sweet.
Blueberry circle was bigger - it is more taxing than blueberries.
And has many life-giving properties beneficial effect on blood vessels, eyesight and preventing cancer cells.

Was infinitely to graze on these granite stones, crawling on all fours in the bushes and depicting reindeer, if not one "but". We still had horses, though, and foot, and had to meet:)

The backbone of the economy of the åland Islands since ancient times was sailing.
Now Mariehamn the capital of åland, is the third largest port in Finland after Helsinki and Turku.
The share of shipping accounted for 40% of revenues and one job out of three.
All the ferries plying between Finland and Sweden go to the Aland Islands. And the bulk of the population are employed in the area supports these passengers.
For example, in Marienhamne is a huge Laundry where you wash your underwear with ferries.

In September 1994, the death of the ferry “Estonia” have caused great damage to all the ferry traffic, then many refused to travel on ships.
The situation normalized only after a few years and tourism is now a second source of income of the Autonomous Republic.
The political situation is stable, the crime rate is zero (in 70-e years have closed the last vacant Aland jail).
All the conditions for people looking for peace and relaxation.

Fishing as an industry decayed Aland Islands after Finland's accession to the European Union, when there is increased competition with products from other regions.
And why we need it - much more profitable to develop tourism, fishing, selling licenses and providing related infrastructure.
To maintain the ecological balance of the Aland practically develop the industry.
The only exception is except that the crisping factory which processed all the harvest of local potatoes.

As we drove along the king's road and enjoyed the views, the rain almost completely stopped.
However, the Constitution required energetic and just over the bridge from the island of Brando we saw a big beach.
As usual it was equipped with tables and even a couple of houses changing rooms.
Because of bad weather around walrus were not observed and we with a clear conscience took both house.
Inside was a little bit to warm up and dry off.

While the girls settled down to rest Andrey began to prepare lunch. Just inside one of the booths.
After a few minutes in the dinning flames of gas burners are already bubbling pea soup and cooked a real mulled wine.
Yesterday in the store we bought a package of dry red wine and now intended to correct a hot beverage of your Pozharskie organisms.
Handy herbs were collected Neleus.
Leaves of currant, raspberry and St. John's wort thrown in a pot gives the wine additional benefits and fragrance.

Andrew never had a talkative and verbosity.
Looking at it from the side, the impression was profound and self-confident person.
Don't know he acted on a whim or purpose, but such behavior is always inspired confidence in women and attracted them.

The thing is that the so-called limbic system has inherited from the animals.
And it is responsible for sexual behavior. There is a saying that "Men love with their eyes" - and it has a physiological explanation.
The key role they have in libido plays so-called suprachiasmatic nucleus — a small mass deep in the brain with direct input from the retina.
And the core in turn is connected to the hypothalamus, the body, which are produced by sex hormones.

And women the opposite - they love the ears and nose!
They have a very intense connection with sexual ventrolateral receptors are in the nucleus, by which are auditory way.
And nose, on the border of the nasal septum, there is a vomeronasal organ — the organ of the sexual sense of smell, a millimeter in diameter.
He perceives only sexual odors — pheromones.

That's why for women, a very important speech!!!
A good, confident voice, the low timbre and nemnogosloven.
It's involuntary, on an unconscious level assure in sexual integrity.

Poethave no wonder our girls gravitated to my friend.
Julia, as a friend, actually, and Nelia figuratively (although of course this does not give strongly denied).
I could not boast of such. On the contrary.
Not having a low modulated voice and just loved to shoot the breeze on a completely different topic, I've lost sexual points like crazy:)
But even realizing all this, couldn't do anything about it. Do not change the fact that inherent in you by nature.
Can't really say that to me it kind of strained.
Satis eloquentiae, sapientiae parum - a lot of eloquence, but little wisdom:)

The first few days of our trip were lapping each other.
Everyone tried to look better than it really is.
And perhaps somewhere far, achieving the opposite effect.
For example later I was told Neleus ,I'm too cocky now.
But I didn't notice it of course.

However, every day our relationship changed.
And in a different direction, becoming warmer, it is harder.
But perhaps this is an additional benefit of joint campaigns.
After all, we learn there the art of relationships, trying to koordinovat personal troubles with public need.

The further route led across the small Islands connected to each other.
It's probably the most beautiful place on åland!
I have the feeling that going in the sea.
Left, right, front and back only water.
And just up the road.
And you're in the middle of it all.
And silence.
The state of complete Nirvana and peace.

In parallel with our movement, in a sea sailed the wild swans (or geese) - a female and a bunch of Chicks behind.
We could not resist not to familiar with them when the brood approached the shore.

Julia Andrew went somewhere ahead.<br /> Neleus and we got delayed trying for a while to merge with the surrounding beauty in the primordial ecstasy.
Local places of course require a longer stay. Just blasphemous to watch them passing through.

So quietly we drove to the southern tip of the commune of Brando - island Proceed
With him on the nearby small island is spanned by a dam. And from there went another free ferry.
In the absence of the ship we were placed in a local waiting room - a small wooden shed with a table and two benches.
He got there especially the way that it began to rain again.

Finally Alfageln is a large white ferry. And we piled into his hold.

From here it was possible to cross from the four Islands.
Ensconced in the warmth of the mess, taking the hot Cup of coffee and unfolding the map, we with Andrey began to argue with a straight face wherever we moor to spend the night.
An impromptu Council in Fili diluted our ladies certainly wanted to take part in the decision-making process.
I write the ladies, although in my opinion it was mostly Nelia. Forgot:)

In between I managed to run to the bathroom and a little support there, under the stream of hot air your mokrusha gloves and socks.
The particular dryness that they are not added, but at least turned them from chilled-frozen state during wet-tolerant.
Well at least no one went to the toilet and saw this process.
The schedule of the ferries was characterized by extreme obscurity.
It was written like Norwegian - when three years ago with my friend Ilya, we mixed up the departure time and lost three hours of time.
And what is most interesting in the result and then we made a mistake.
True not fatal. Wanted to reach the island of Vardo, and climbed on Kumlinge.
The fact that the ferry on the way comes in several Islands, as I have already said, was important the boot order in ego the hold.
Those who go out at the end of the road - is loaded first.
And end point of the route Hummelvik harbour on the island of Vardo.
The man commanding the landing, shouting the names of the items and in accordance with this, it was necessary to go inside the ferry.
And we ignored this fact or simply do not understand the system and immersed himself in the end. And so I had to go first:)


But as they say, that is not done, then the better.
Just a bit around the island and saw the first sign to the campsite there and turned.
Camping was a small private institution.
In fact, like a cottage with a plot of land and a small clearing with clipped grass. It was a place for tents.

It was getting dark. Andrew quickly agreed with the owner and we settled in for the night.
Before bed washed in the shower and had supper in the summer kitchen.

Everyone was tired after a rainy day. Nelia as usual for something pouted at me and been accused of all mortal sins.
On Julia in General it was difficult to understand the condition she is in.
Female mood - utter darkness.
Will never really understand why it's ruined or elevated. And there is no need to understand - you just have to wait until the next change. As always the best healer!

The dinner passed in relative silence, that did not stop anyone to fill his belly with a variety of food from Costabissara supermarket.
Among other delicacies kept a jar of local honey Kukkaishunaja.

More time will allow you to marvel at the fact that Finns have succeeded in everything (except perhaps space and ballet).
Even such areas as beekeeping, typical it would seem for the more southern countries there is also at altitude!
Finnish honey bees to get pollinating dandelions, raspberries, canola, clover and Heather.>
Moreover, located North of the 60th parallel and partially above the Arctic circle Finland is higher than most European countries with a mild climate according to the degree of self-sufficiency in honey (70%) and the performance of the average bee colony (40 kg of honey per year).
In so doing, it helps an incredible amount of work in addition to modern technology.
In Bashkiria are still mostly wooden hives with a lot of flaws and ovelavela the cost of honey, and therefore making it nekonkurentosposobny on the world market.

Interestingly recently one of our beekeeping Bashkir companies signed a cooperation agreement with the Finnish company "Paradise Honey" producing polystyrene hives.
Such hives are the most optimal for keeping bees, because they have a number of characteristics which are not intrinsic to the wooden - temperature stability, lack of moisture, excessive joints and cracks and clean in microbial terms.Besides Finnish hives are very light.

Here chemical plants were built in our city, and even hives of plastics for their famous honey can not do.
This is all very sad.

Thinking about it, I tried Finnish honey, and then your Bashkir prudently captured from home and yet not doedu.
But our is better!
And much more.
At least one spoon of honey in a barrel of tar:)

Nearby, between two trees was a hammock.
In me suddenly woke up Muskrats and happily swung in the air about ten minutes, thinking about the vanity of all things.

"Here I'll stay forever, forever, he thought. - How pointless it all is to hang out in different places, to quetch, to build houses, to do the cooking and to acquire property!"