In search of the Moomin-Dole

Chapter in which Hatifnats tenderly relishes mint liqueur nostrils and inhale the intoxicating air of freedom

Mileage: 65 miles | Weather: +22 (sun)


Andrew called early in the morning and said he already left Petersburg on the train.
I had time to drive from lake station and drop in the same composition.
Hastily having had a bite and saying goodbye to our friends we Neleus went to the way back.
It is a pity that we could not see how staff Ilya improvised pass the standards TRP .
I guess the sight was not without interest.

The train came right on schedule. Located in the same car, which drove Andrew was a matter of technique.

So our trip actually started from this point.
Just want to warn readers that describing our adventures, I'm long-winded, meticulous and boring.
In addition to the actions you will encounter excursions into history , geography and literature, and will be forced to read my filosofstvovaniya and thinking about completely different topics.
Connoisseurs sisters talent can immediately leave this site:)
Or go to the short description of our campaign

Those to whom content is more important than form, in the next moment, already unloaded along with us at the train station the ancient town founded by Swedish king in the 13th century.
And won for Russia in the 18th century by Peter the great.
In the recent history of Vyborg had twice visited Finland twice to return to the possession of the USSR.
But this is what I wrote in the previous Chapter.

Interesting fact - we checked not only at the entrance and at the exit.
I have never seen before.
It made me as usual to take in reflections on the causes of this distrust of the leadership of the railroad to its passengers.
And I think rightly so.
After all, they are unlikely to proverali tickets had nothing to do or the love of art.
I think the roots of this mistrust grow very deep.

The basis of the lack of faith of some people to others is obviously a hoax.
Deception as a way of existence.
By itself, the lie is an integral part of man.
There are even some statistics how many and who in the course of a day tells a lie.
And it is hardly possible full uskorenie
The case most likely in concentration.
And in the flow of lies from particular way of being, of governance and of doing business.

It's hard to say when and who started that snowball.
I can not judge how things are in other countries (although on a cursory glance of the tourist confidence there many times more), but in our country this situation is very bad.
Is noticeable first of all lie at the state level, and then it goes down below, absorbed and Megas among the common people.
Don't want to do excursions in the old or recent past, when the us promised to build communism, then handed out the vouchers, it took impaired deposits with banks and etc.
All these things of old, although I think there are links in a chain.

Take for example our mobile technology present at least at the household level.
Firms deceived customers, cellular companies to their subscribers, banks customers.
The Internet is full of all sorts of wiring the money.
I think anyone can give you a dozen similar examples from their own experience.
People used to exist in the waiting state of deception, unbelief, no one in anything.
There is even a saying - do not be fooled not live.
And many more inexperienced people get, then replenishing the ranks of citizens who are deprived of Faith.
Probably the most important after faith in God - faith in people.
And seen the double checking of tickets but a taste of the iceberg, only a special case, saying only that in this place Russia the concentration of no confidence, a few more than in the other.

It is a pity that time for sightseeing in the old city of Vyborg we had.
Although there is something to see. A lot of ancient buildings of medieval architecture and style of national romanticism of the late 19th century.

Vyborg castle on the island is the only completely preserved monument of Western European medieval military architecture with vozmuschalsya tower of St. Olav, one of the highest in all of Scandinavia.

And of course the unique beauty of the Park of mon repos.

Manor and Park ensemble that is associated primarily with the name of the President of the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences Ludwig Heinrich von Nicolay, the stone ridges of the ice age of the granites of rapakivi (rotten stone), in some areas reaching twenty-meter height.

However, to admire the beauty of Vyborg have at other times.
I must say that at the initial stage of our journey Navigator were Andrew.
He had been in Finland and volunteered to lead us forward relying on the GPS device.
Paper maps of the country, no one was.
So I had to try on my own skin as it looks stupid follow the course in someone else's fairway, when you rely on someone to come.


When food in the market town, we quickly went to the side of the border.
It's amazing! It would seem that the proximity to the border have any way to discipline fellow citizens.
But no - the road leading from Vyborg customs post cranberry was extremely bad, with wynonie and cracks.
Sometimes I was scared for my loaded bike - the poor guy, he winced at each bump, as if the man was hit on the cheek.
And it is not possible as it should be dispersed, despite the small number of vehicles.
Cranberry was not the busiest crossing in Finland, because it lay to the side from the highway Petersburg-Helsinki

But the bad road was only until closer to the Saimaa canal and began to zigzag along it.

And had the thought that thank God though the channel was completely given over to the Finns, otherwise I would probably also look unsightly.
And here is the channel and what is next to it was maintained neat Scandinavians.
The difference between the condition of the asphalt was very striking.
Just defies comprehension, this wandering from century to century of the Russian phenomenon.
Generations succeed each other, progress does not stand still, fly into space, nanotechnology, there are all sorts.
And as the road was disgusting and left.

In fact, we were on the rented territory as the entire channel and the thirty-meter area on either side of it (and the locks, bridges and other hydraulic structures up to 200 m) withdrew the contract in use by the Finns. Andrew with great reverence treated the customs rules and when we wanted to eat a muffin by the water, a whisper with a serious expression said that in principle it is a border area and any off-road illegal.
However, the muffin was eaten, and even it is washed down and no one prevented this a priori criminal process.

I must say that I have some weakness to all kinds of water - standing or flowing.
Water wittingly or unwittingly attracts and draws attention.
Places we long izezzhena travelled the length and breadth of the tourists and especially St. Petersburg.
So they are new, then nothing is drawn. My following words for those who have not been here.

ong>Saimaa canal is the sluice - that is, connecting the reservoirs with different water levels.
Starts in Vyborg (Russia) and ends in Dies (Finland), connects Vyborg Bay of lake Saimaa, which is a 75.7 meters above sea level.

The canal was built at a time when Finland was a Duchy within the Russian Empire.
The opening of the Saimaa canal was held on 26 August 1856 and was timed to the day of the coronation of Emperor Alexander II.
Here his original name is Imperial.

The result of the socialist revolution of 1917 in Russia, the Republic of Finland has received from the Soviet Government independence, in this part of the territory of Karelia, Vyborg and the Saimaa canal moved to Finnish territory.
Before world war II, the Saimaa canal was the main water transport artery of the Republic of Finland, connecting the water system of the southern and middle part of the country with the Gulf of Finland.

After the war, the USSR again moved to the South-Eastern part of Finland, including part of the Saimaa canal and Vyborg. As a result of division into two parts, the channel eventually ceased to function.
The Soviet Union was not very interested in the channel, because he did not presented no strategic or economic value.
He's more needed in Finland.
And as a result of long negotiations in 1963, an Agreement was signed on the lease of the Republic of Finland of the Soviet part of the Saimaa canal.
The agreement is for 50 years.

In 1963, the reconstruction of the Saimaa canal, which ended in 1968.
The channel deepened and expanded, and where it paved a new direction.


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By chance it coincided or not, but last week two things happened.
Finland has approved the construction of a gas pipeline "Northern stream" in its territorial waters in the Baltic sea.
But the Russian government approved the draft Treaty on further lease by Finland of the Russian part of the Saimaa canal and adjoining territory and on the implementation of the navigation through the Saimaa canal for another 50 years.

I then traced with the naked eye.
It is obvious that Russia cannot, and may not want to ensure proper condition of its part of the Saimaa canal.
If you take her away from Finns, after a few years she is likely to become quite unsuitable for navigation.
The example of the Volga-Balt – one of the most important internal waterways of the country – clearly shows in what scenario can go the development of the Saimaa canal in full "independence" from the Finns.
Due to the lack of funding in full of the Volga-Balt this transport artery not only developing, but devolving.

Canal walk not only freight but also passenger and cruise ships.
The truth is they all belong to Finland.
Some go from Lappeenranta to Vyborg and back, while others take a cruise from Finland to Finland without calling at Russian ports.
From the Russian side navigation ceased in 1991 with the collapse of the USSR and since then has not recovered.

Now on channel 8 gateways - 5 Russian and 3 on the Finnish territory.
The length of the canal is 43 km

He partly uses natural waters in its length, the largest of which is Big lake Flower lake (Rattery) and Nujamaa directly on the Finnish border.

The road along the canal is beyond praise. Only a pity that you can go on an asphalt road.
In Russia there is no culture of cycle lanes in the neighboringth Finland, although they're just asking on the opposite side of the waterway.
But I guess this will not happen in our lifetime.
Until recently we lived in a state of cold war with the imperialist environment. And barbed wire, trenches , redoubts and numerous posts in the border region has been a fixture of the border.
The consciousness of people is changing very slowly and sometimes not keep up the situation.
Swords to ploughshares is a lot harder than Vice versa.
What we have seen shortly.

We came to the Russian border posts.
Three times checked our documents.
Whereas on the Finnish side, and only one directly at the customs.

At the checkpoint "Brusnichnoe" (Russian customs) was a small queue of cars.
Not to move, välimaa, cat(Torfyanovka) on the way to Helsinki.
There are lines of cars a mile long.
But our ecological transport did not expect the General queue.
It's nice to know that at least somewhere we road cyclists, not cars.


Crossing the border at this location was opened in 1975 and since the beginning of the 21st century operates in 24-hour mode.
What's interesting to pass through the border on a Bicycle is allowed only since 2005.
Before that only cars or buses. However, to my knowledge, still the border cannot go on foot.
Thought... I Wonder if roller or gyro scooter:)
Vehicles became more and laws is also not keeping up with technical progress.

On the first post were my friends. Mindful of past experience, I strongly encouraged them to take the Declaration on the bikes.
But the customs officer did not give them the forms saying that stories don't need to declare.
Had to engage in polemics with him zakonchilsayusya my victory.
The fact that we were going to ride the bus and bikes would load, no declarations can be bought in Finland and subject to payment of duties.
On each bike there is room on the frame - it is necessary to amend the description.

Unfortunately taking pictures at the border is prohibited and will have to bring a picture from the Internet.


Recently the road between the two CAT - Russian and Finnish had been widened and straightened to increase throughput.
The commissioning of the new section of highway "Scandinavia" between checkpoints Brusnichnoe and Nuijamaa was dedicated to the celebration of the 150th anniversary of the Saimaa canal.
The construction of a new section "Scandinavia" took after in 2003, Finland decided to move the checkpoint "Nuijamaa" one mile South of the village.
An old checkpoint can't cope with the stream of cars crossing the border.
Two points are now separated by only four kilometers.
The passage of Finnish customs took even less time.
A few standard questions-why and where we go, a stamp in the passport about crossing and here it is - Finland.

Andrei perked up noticeably. Freedom, according to him, joyfully greeted him at the exit checkpoint.
Located near unchanged a Duty-free store where you have to look.
To be honest I don't really understand people almost slavishly belonging to this institution.
In my estimation the prices are not much different from Russian in translation into rubles.
Another thing is that you can buy products or perfume which we do not have in the country.

Came out of the store not the Andrei Kozlov, and a vicious bald of Hatifnats with two bottles in his hands.
A typical Finnish alcoholic drinks - the strawberry liqueur and menthol 40-50 degree drink Minttu flat in half-liter plastic bottles.
Interestingly in Finland it is 40 degrees and on the border 50.
Russians like it hot:)
Rare stuff for my taste.
Mint tooth paste raspodjela in alcohol.
Imagine that you took a mouthful of packing Orbit Winterfresh and washed down with a liquid for mouth rinsing.
Drink as a refreshing drink and this is very dangerous - you can quickly get drunk without noticing it.

Minutes - one of those alcoholic drinks that are typical for Finland.

There are plenty of products with a strong medicinal taste.

For example Salmaiki liqueur of liquorice and aniseed drops and taste of children's cough medicine.
Or liquid licorice Kopecky black.
The root extract of licorice(liquorice) actually useful and used in medicine for the treatment of various diseases.
So eating such sweets along health is improving:)
Though of course to chew solid medicine or drink liquid tooth powder - employment is not for everybody.

A few SIPS of minutes roused Andrew from the ever-gloomy state of the body.
But Nel had to beg to try, because she as a true patriot of Bashkiria saw only balm "Iremel", taken from the road.
Almost immediately after Duty Free parallel road to Lappeenranta, start the bike lanes, one of which we turned.
And five minutes later reached the high fixed bridge over the Saimaa canal with a height of 24.5 m.
The channel bed in this place hewn in the granite rock that a vertical wall is dropped into the water and kind of an impressive sight from this height.

Immediately after the bridge along channel one starts from the Finnish routes number 13. He is exactly what we needed.
Dirt track along the canal is quiet and deserted, like houses findnow living nearby.
Can not hear any sound - no children's laughter, no music, no clatter of hammers or other economic activities.
Absolutely typical Scandinavian situation.
The channel is arranged stationary landmarks to mark the fairway.
Only way they enliven the landscape, as if to say that that there is sometimes floating vessels with people.

The weather this day was Sunny and warm, which was especially good for Nelly, which was a rare heater and was constantly shaking from the cold even when the air temperature was quite comfortable in my opinion.
Obviously it has a higher temperature regulation of your body


It is known that the perception of thermal stimuli from the external environment and the formation of temperature sensations in humans is carried out using the thermo receptors of the skin and mucous membranes, which include the so-called cold receptors and heat receptors.
In the skin and mucous membranes of humans more cold receptors (about 250 000) than the heat (about 30 000). Furthermore, skin receptors located more superficially, at a depth of 0.17 mm, and heat more deeply, at a depth of 0.3 mm.
This feature of the location of the thermoreceptors leads to an earlier perception of the human body cold than the heat.
Another feature of the thermoreceptors — their uneven distribution in the skin area that defines a different level of sensitivity to cold and heat different areas of the body.

Apparently the number of cold receptors on the skin of my friend and the depth of their occurrence was slightly higher than the average value. And this had to be considered.

SoonSha bike path ran into the ferry.
A small wooden ferry, like the fact that we are located on the river Dema opposite the gardens in Yumatovo.
Only a much more quality made and looking.
Driven by the muscular force necessary to pull an iron rope.
A ferry connected the part of the shore we were standing on a Peninsula formed the new and the old channel of the Saimaa canal.
The old canal was very narrow and reminded me of This channel in Sweden, along which we drove two years ago.


And on this Peninsula and there was a bike path.
It is interesting that on the other side stood a bench.
And on it sat a young couple.
Tractor (the tractor stood nearby) and the milkmaid (maybe). Despite the noise that we made at the crossing they did not even look in our direction.
Whether the great power of love, when you don't see anything around, whether ordinary Finnish calmness and indifference.
This ferry usually runs from mid-may to mid-October.
In the winter the ferry is clean, and the crossing is not valid.


The Peninsula proved to be extremely picturesque.
Right and left water, and in the center of a shady alley.
And on the sides - the sea of strawberries. Miss this we could not of course.
Berries in Finland a great many and a feeling that does not hurt them and collect. We would already have cleaned up everything by the roots.

While Nelia and Andrew indulged their stomachs vitamins summer, I found the water thrown by someone the line with a rusty hook. The tragedy of the situation lay in the fact that we travelled to the åland Islands - a Mecca for anglers.
And went without a rod. It promised to take Andrew, but I didn't.
The explanation was in my opinion not very convincing and because the real motives for such action is left to the conscience of our Hatifnatten.
Therefore find if not guaranteed, then at least give a chance for her:)
And hope, as we know, works wonders.


On the way to Lappeenranta, we drove a few gateways.
On the Finnish side of the canal there are only three.
For those who do not know the gateway is a hydraulic structure on navigable waterways and to ensure a smooth transfer of ships from one water basin to another with different levels of water in them.
On both sides of the gateway is restricted by the stoppers, between is located adjacent a camera that allows you to vary the water level within it.
The lock chambers may be several, if the height difference is too significant.


On the Saimaa channel, the locking process lasts 30 minutes and all operations usually performed by a single person. Traffic on the canal continues more than two hundred days a year.
As used herein, the vessels are equipped with ice strengthening, which almost allows them to go to navigation for almost eight months — from late April until January.

He moved to the other side of the channel in the vicinity of the gateway Mustola, three fairy tale characters closer to the first Finnish city on their way.
Sixty kilometers away from Vyborg and Lappeenranta.
Its ancient Swedish name of Villmanstrand
Located in the Western part of Karelia, on the southern shore of lake Saimaa, with a population of about 70 thousand people and is the thirteenth largest in Finland.

Villmanstrand - translated from Swedish as "the City wild man" when Queen Christina signed the decree on the rights of the city and she asked what it means to the Finnish Lappeenranta.
She said shore, where wild people live, the word Sami is hardly saidsomething about her Majesty (once upon a time there lived Saami, but a long time ago, before the arrival of Finno-Ugric peoples, it is actually Sami and replaced)
The Queen and commanded to call the city, and of the arms made relevant - it is the primitive man with a club.

Lappeenranta is a very Russian city. Due to the proximity of the border.
The city has many historic buildings and there are even the remains of a fortress.
Light Solovyov loves this city, considering it one of the most beautiful settlements of Finland.
And I have no reason not to believe her.
And the story of the "wild city" is very full and complete events

Sorry to see long time it was not possible.
The time pressure of time and the desire to get to the meeting place with a sick friend postponed the pleasure for an indefinite time
However a careful examination of the cities were never part of the plan our hikes.
City Scandinavia outwardly rather similar.
In the best case, there is a castle or its ruins.
Mandatory Church with a well-kept cemetery. The rest is optional.
At first, everything is interesting.
But multiplied in quantity excitable dulls perception.
Scandinavia is more interesting for its nature. Because it always focus.
And the cities with their rich history for a more thorough study leave mattress tourists have a lot of time and money:)

In Lappeenranta a lot of cheap shops where shops probably all of Leningrad oblast.
Especially on the highways leading to Russia, the Finns have built larger supermarkets with food and industrial goods
And they are, as I have found, excellent quality and even when translated from euros into roubles often come out cheaper than our counterparts.
Here's how it turns out.
Communism was built like food and things, really was not.
Now democracy and food and things again is not enough.
And that is expensive , poor quality or tasteless.
Otherwise how would people earn this.
Sad as it is.


Lappeenranta the city is beautiful, clean and cozy. Near the resort.
That's just a picture of beauty spoils smelly pulp and paper mill located on the shore of the lake near the outlet of the Saimaa canal.
We just passed.
Appearance white, clean and of course (like all Scandinavian companies), but corrupting a sweet smell is spread everywhere.
Even if you believe that the treatment facilities there are first-class, still on the ecology of lake mill effect probably not the best way.

They say there at the last stage of purification in the water even sturgeon are bred.
But if the fish are at ease, people not.
Pulp at the mill receive a standard sulfate method, which is a drawback of allocating a large amount of foul-smelling sulfur compounds of methylmercaptan
The same smell spread by skunks.
Damage to respiratory organs, but pleasant enough.
For some reason it is not filtered or it is impossible or impractical.

Paper industry of Finland is one of the best in the world.
There is almost any city built PPM.
Hamina, Kotka, Anjalankoski, Kuusankoski, Imatra, Lappeenranta, Oulu, Varkaus, Pietarsaari, Tampere, Joutseno, Rauma, Kemi, Kaskinen, Simpele,'s äänekoski mill, Valkeakoski, Juankoski, Yama - the list is probably not complete.
Forest industry in Finland is 20% in total exports.
From Russia and not only in her country was taking the forest, and back paper.
Domestically, over 60% of all forest land of the country belongs to private forest owners, and only 25% owned by the state, 9% belongs to companies, and the rest of the Church parishes, sports clubs, etc.
Therefore, the forest Finns are not particularly cut.


Typing products in the supermarket and drive through the city, we went to the waterfront.
There is seething life. Boats and boats running around the Bay.
People were sitting in restaurants, walking.

On a small rynochek to sell fresh vegetables and fruits.
What involuntarily pay attention - so it's peas.
Fresh peas - it's sold everywhere for about 2 euros per liter jar.
Such memories of childhood.
And now I forgot when I ate it last time.
Why it stopped selling, or I simply do not know.

At the end of the Cape Linnoitustie was located the observation turret.
There we made a little halt.
From Nelly since the border began to ache my knees unaccustomed to such loads.
And he promised her a beer if she'll make it to the end in the day.

Generally speaking all of the Scandinavian countries Finland is the most liberal part of the alcohol.
But despite it all alcoholic drinks (except beer up to 4 degrees) are sold in the network of specialized shops "Alko".
And to drink on the streets of alcoholic beverages is prohibited.
By the way for comparison - in Spain for drinking wine in a public place, not a national holiday, the citizen has to pay almost 3000 euros.
And in March of this year Belarus has also adopted a similar law - fines are $250 for the first violation, and for the second $500.
And Russia is going to catch up - already prepared a bill providing for a fine of 5000 rubles for a beer on the bench.

Aware of all this, I had to wrap a jar in polietilen and close Nelia their powerful torsos in order to protect her a tired thirsty face hypothetical views of the local police.


Nearby stood a small town of sand.
It grows in Lappeenranta every summer.
Its construction uses local sand and water.
The surface of the pieces coated with an adhesive film that protects from rain and wind.

The themes of the sculptures are different every year.
But this time, but he was still unworthy, whether on the contrary it was dismantled in the center was a wooden forest.

It was time to look for a place to sleep.
Andrew was here once and is therefore surely took us on a countryside beach. The evening was cool and the wind was strong with Saima.
The beach was quite ready for Parking. The tent I decided to put one.
Andrew took a tent and all the time, but with varying degrees of success, sought to attach him for those or other purposes.
That evening he used it as a protective screen, tied to two trees.
It was a bit confusing, but the awning juicy telepulse from gusts of wind and loud clapping.

Swimming is not wanted, though the water was not cold. Wind rose carried with it dissolved plant light distance the smell of damp cardboard.
A feature of Scandinavian weather in the wind, Wade bones even when not cold.
Lake Saimaa is insanely beautiful, especially at sunset, when a disgruntled ruffle of the waves rolled on the sandy shore, and the glare of the setting sun, jumping in the surf in the distance.


Generally speaking not Saimaa lake and the whole lake system.
Numerous lakes, bays, marshes and ponds that are connected in chain sleeves, Straits and channels.
The narrow streams and artificial canals interspersed with open expanses of water, the width of which conceal the numerous Islands, overgrown with pinesAMI.
Single think its due to the water surface, which is at the same level from Lappeenranta to Joensuu.
The entire lake covers an area of about 4 000 sq km and the greatest depth is 84 m.
Saima is derived from the only river Vuoksi.

In lake Saimaa are found rare species of freshwater seals, the Saimaa ringed seal. Currently, there are about 300 species, they are protected by the state. A lot of fish, including salmon.

The law that allows anyone to gather mushrooms and berries and fishing, as well as in Sweden is Universal Everyone's Right (Jokamiehenoikeus).
Fishing regular fishing rod for a worm does not require special licenses and permits.
License is only needed for fly rods.
The most popular fishing spots in Finland are equipped with special walkways and marinas.
In the future, we constantly saw.
Often can be found nearby shed, a place for tents and fire, trash cans and, almost always, toilet.

The tent squeezed between a large rock and a pine tree, and quickly after eating, we lay the herring in its nylon womb.
The familiar fatigue of the first day had closed his eyes faster than any brand-name drug from insomnia.
Tomorrow we waited for a new day and a new Path.

"On beauty Saima, you're my boat swayed,
Swayed my canoe, the canoe is agile, playful and sharp,
Water splash soul lullaby bliss heard
And apart stood a deserted rock like sisters.

Everywhere sounded old song — Kalevala:
Song of iron and stone on mournful gust titanium.
And sandbar — evening production of the shaft,
As a bride were white on purple water mill.

Drunk as the sun fell silent arrows
And the bottom fell quiet and the bottom is lit,
As the heavenly tree was falling, as the fruit of overripe,
Too bright the sun and the first star blinked;

I approached andisel on shore gray and curly;
I don't know how long, I don't know who I was praying...
Boundless Saimaa flowed with lava flows
White steam above the water crept up and curled."

Mandelstam Osip