In search of the Moomin-Dole

Kumlinge - Indian nuts and the åland pliers

Chapter in which Mumia and Little my are horses, hemul eats handfuls of blueberries and uprooting screwdriver mites, and Hatifnats dreams of a quiet retirement on the shores of the sea of åland

Mileage: 15 km | Weather +21 (sun)


We slept in this day, almost without limits.
The fact that from the island of Kumlinge you can go further only after lunch.
It was then in the harbour swam the ferry to Vardo.
Therefore, no one is pulling and lifting in 45 seconds is not satisfied.
However bright an early the sun woke well-rested travellers.
And they, one after another, like groundhogs after a winter of hibernation, sighted flapping puffy eyes in wrinkled faces reluctantly climbs into the light.

By chance we ended up in > ESM unconventional even by the standards of åland place.
Camping Hasslebo was not simple, and environmental and included in the so-called project Meridian.
It was founded in 2003 came from Germany Kora & Thorsten, who are tired of the industrial society.
After several months of sailing on a wooden boat on the Baltic sea they settled on the Aland Islands and founded there the environmental community, free from priyanath conventions of the modern world. Well, or rather almost free.
Here live in harmony with nature and use its gifts to strengthen the moral and physical health.

The cost of living in a tent here for only 7 euros per person.
You can also book Breakfast for the same price. Pritham all products are local and natural.
In Hasslebo the bread is baked in old stone ovens.
The vegetables for the salad are grown right there in the garden behind the house.
Fish of course will make the fresh and newly caught.

Linen wash exclusively using so-called soap nuts. No chemicals!
These nuts (actually the berries) - the fruit of the soap tree that grows in Asia and America.
The modern scientific name of the plant was Supindus given by Carl Linnaeus (abbreviated from the Latin. sapo soap and Latin. indicus — Indian)


Soap nuts have been widely used as detergent,because their shell contains saponins, natural foaming agents, it has an interesting chemical composition.
Part of the molecule soluble in water and some in fat! This is a wonderful cleansing effect.
And in-shell nuts in addition to saponin contains emollients and nutrients, making the linens soft, the skin soft as a baby's and hair get healthy Shine, become soft and silky!

When washing the nuts in a linen bag put the clothes in the washing machine drum.
And water emulsion from soap nuts after washing too, not poured, and used for fertilizer.
Linen dried in the typical Scandinavian whirling wind from the dryer, which is a inverted umbrella with the spokes and strained between them the ropes.
This design leverages and the sun and the wind.

We wandered inside the house, where you can also rent a well furnished room with all facilities (odnoklavishny - 15E, twin over 35Е and chetyrehkantnyj for 30S)
The building though modern is created in the image of a typical island houses the 40s of the twentieth century.
Inside the decor is as close as possible to the years. It's very modest and yet at home.
Like he was on a visit to his grandmother.

Again took a hot shower and big Breakfast.
When camping located a stable with horses for riding.
Here close in the paddock grazing the local pet donkey named Gunnar.

Horse and donkey were black blindfolds to protect them inflammation, conjunctivitis, and numerous insects.
The horse's eyes UNically, their location on the sides of the skull allows the horse to have both a monocular (she is able to see the image each eye separately) and binocular vision (can focus both eyes on distant objects).
Camping want to protect the health of all living beings, not just humans.


But the funny thing is at the stable gate was a poster with photos of local horses , their year of birth and names.
So surprisingly there was Nelly and Julia.
A fantastic coincidence - or not say.

When I and Andrew, choking with laughter, told our beauties that they have the horse, the understanding of this opening as it is not met.
Laugh together failed.
The girls pouted and looked offended. However, when I saw the poster themselves, were forced to accept the inevitable.
I'm then ashamed to think - well at least the donkey there was not Igor, but it would be fun to answer:)


And yet there had been a toilet next to the stable, with two side-by-side urinals without any partitions between them.
Apparently ecological consciousness involves the unity of the people even in the latrines. Well, in order for the brotherhood to do it:)

The ferry was still 4 hours and we are leaving the collected tents and backpacks in the camp, went lightly to ride around the island of Kumlinge.
Kumlinge is a small commune in the middle of the archipelago, in four villages where you livedflushes all population of 440 people. The four main Islands Kumlinge, Enklinge, Seglinge and Bjorko - inhabited with permanent residents all year round, and each island has its own character and a different nature.
Island Kumlinge the biggest of them.
There is something to see - the old Church of St. Anne 1400го years ,beautiful bridges and the Museum of peasant farmsteads Sjolund in the village of Kumlinge and even a private airfield.

But we did not get. And here's why.
Moving in a southerly direction, we found noticeable dorico deep into the forest.
And collectively deciding not to go protorennyj travel paths turned into the thicket.
At first the woods around were mixed. Along the roadside the grass grew a sea of strawberries.
The girls immediately fell to nose. While they enjoyed the fresh berries I wandered around and found a few mushrooms, a couple chanterelles.

Ålanders themselves gather few of them and among all the others for some reason prefer only chanterelles, here called "Cantarella".
I am this way in Sweden noticed. Fox for them the only noble and worthy of the attention of the fungus.
Perhaps because of the love of everything sterile clean.
Indeed, in the debate, and the flesh of this mushroom has a substance - haymanot, which do not tolerate all kinds of worms. Worm-eaten chanterelles does not happen so.
Western companies are actively purchasing chanterelles pharmacy – emit this substance in its pure form and used in medicines.
Besides chanterelles is the only mushroom species that do not crumble and do not crease.
It has a lot of vitamin e, which is the daily requirement for humans is 25-30 mg, and carotene which mushrooms are bright yellow in color.

Closer to the shore of the island, mixed forest gives way to pure coniferous.
And here he is fantastically handsome. If you find yourself in the nursery tale.
Granite boulders overgrown with moss, the whole clearing with moss and pine intricately curved winds.
Between them and the plantation of bilberry and blueberry. To order more than we have seen on Brando.
Just sit on the fifth point and revolve around the axis of raking the berries even not one, but handfuls.
Here I am lost in this blessed place! For the year ahead have filled his belly with vitamins. How not vomited yet then I do not understand:)

By the way before the trip to åland I absolutely did not distinguish between blueberries and blackberries.
As it turned out I only ate blueberries as a blueberry.
Just the fact that blueberries are more rare berry and more valuable - it grows almost exclusively in pine forests.
And blueberries can be found in many places in pine forests, in the mountains , in the forest belt of Central Russia, tundra,swamp forests, and pine thickets.
Although in appearance they immediately distinguish - blueberry dark blue, almost black, and blueberry blue.
Blueberry fruit blueberries are somewhat inferior in sweetness and density, but larger than those in 1.5-2 times.
The pulp of a blueberry is slightly greenish and watery.


Blueberries have a number of unique properties to protect from exposure to radioactive radiation, strengthen the walls of blood vessels, support the health of the colon and pancreas, slow down the aging of nerve cells, and hence of the brain.
In addition, the blueberry has antiscorbutic, diuretic, anti-sclerotic, cardiotonic, hypotensive and anti-inflammatory action.

Blueberry is also not inferior in nutritive properties - it is beneficial effects on our digestive system.
That is why it is used as with diarrhea and constipation.
Besides, blueberry juice has a bactericidal action.
He even detrimental effect on pathogens of dissentErie and typhoid!
An invaluable benefit from the use of bilberry for patients with diabetes.
Well, and lots of other things, just not prichislit.

Blueberries are also called drunk berry. Although actually inside it has no dormandy substances.
Just in the collection of the berry in your mouth fall of the essential oil from the branches of wild rosemary that grows along with the blueberries. And they sometimes give a heady effect.
I ate probably the car these oils because they pull the berries are not particularly mentallica and not seeing the rush in our time to absorb as much of the fruit.

And when coming to the sea I saw a light grey almost like a toy house, this vision could be the result of berry hangover.
However, the house was a reality.

He stood on wooden stilts right on the coastal rocks.
Like some giant picked him up out of cardboard and put beauty on the shore. The house was very elegant, yet simple and modern.

Andrei and cautiously walked around it believing that could intrude into private ownership.
But luckily no one was there. A small porch with a bench near the stairs.
Inside two small rooms - one on the right is the sauna (one was a pipe on the roof).
And the second major. Through the window you could see out there, all tidied up and ready to receive either the host or guests.
Even the table was set - it was the Cutlery and tea cups. Fantastic!
Apparently it was all the same Rybolovny cottage that you can book and enjoy fishing in this wonderful place.
Of the sea is a wooden footbridge, and a little distance under the trees lay upside down boat.

Soon arrived our girls and also stopped by such beauty and harmony.
In a place like this to even talk like muffled so as not to disturb this solemn state of unity with nature.
Andrew, Julia, of uselessü on the bench beside the house and from the side reminded a longtime married couple, happily lived his life.

In the last Chapter I mentioned the åland the law "on universal law"
So fishing with spinning and bait is not here "every man's right".
To go to the forest to collect mushrooms and berries is free. And to catch fish you must purchase a license that allows fishing in places where you plan to spend time.
For example here in this cottage rented in advance.
Unlike the rest of Finland on the åland Islands are not charged a fee for the protection of state fisheries.

The license may differ from each other and have their own rules.
But there is common to all licenses in the period from April 15 to June 15 is prohibited fishing from the shore (to protect nesting birds).
The minimum size of fish which can be caught: salmon 60 cm, sea trout 50 cm, pike 50 km, pikeperch 37 cm, bream 42 cm , whitefish 35 cm (Length is measured from the nose of the fish to the end of caudal fin).
All fish less than these dimensions must be carefully released back into the water.
The maximum to get also a limited amount of fish - for example, only two pike.
To prepare for the future and take it with you is impossible.

The uniqueness of the Islands is that here due to the weak salinity water is found, both sea and freshwater fish.
The waters of the archipelago abound with perch, pike, salmon, trout, trout and trout .
Thanks to the slightly salty water, fish it doesn't smell Tina and much juicier normal freshwater.


Of course with our Russian mentality and disregard for nature it is difficult to understand how in your right mind, you can observe all of these restrictions.
But such laws supported fish populations in the Aland that allows everyone from all corners of the world to come here and get their bit of joy from the process.

Time was running out and we trools way back to the campsite.
And again, briefly floating berries. I'm with blueberries and the other with strawberries on the roadside.
We were so relaxed from the outside world that I forgot about caution.
This is especially inexcusable was I always with great reverence and fear related to potential hazards, which then, as it turned out, was nowhere as in Finland, real and tangible.

I'm talking about here.
In Finland there are several places where a lot of mites is around the lake Saimaa archipelago of Turku and Aland Islands.
Especially the latter, where all the boomers and not treated with chemicals even Parking in campsites.

As you know ticks are found in tall grass in places where there are animals and people.
Waiting for its prey.
Meanwhile, the guys sat down and ate the berries, only the tops sticking out of the roadside bushes.
Follow the word - FOR-ROS-LAY! WHEN-TO-RYE-TION!
Ding-Ding! The bell sounded!!!
But I repeat, we relaxed and bells were heard.

Camping returned an hour before the ferry departure. Leisurely Packed up and went to the pier.
The ferry had not yet arrived and we settled down near the pier.
I went to photograph the area, when behind me anxiously called.


Feet girls sticking two mite Have a bit more Nely.
Had passed them the gift of a seat in the grass.
Even tight pants worn over belorusov did not help. Found a crack where the creatures of the forest and dug her jaws into the sweet woman's body.

I had to get tick-borne prudently taken a screwdriver (as I was hoping it would come in handy.)
And try her first time in.
About this simple, but turned out to be extremely convenient tool for pulling out ticks and I recently wrote the article "brain eaters" .

Cling flat body of the insect in the slot a couple of turns of plastic kleider, easy pain patient (still rotate in the body sapentia mandibles) and voila - the tick is removed.
The advantage of the tick-borne screwdriver that it first compresses the body of the tick (the most poisonous saliva it does not arrive in the wound) and the second reduces to zero the risk of tearing of the head of the tick.
In General the tool is very easy - I advise everyone to buy.

Andrew worked as a doctor Julia, and I, respectively, over Neleus. And the wound treated with alcohol.

The cases of this disease are rare in åland, but even in a negligible probability of disease shouldn't be neglected prevention.
Tablets yodanthipirina still went to the course.
The girls had 9 days to drink them for a full course.

After the hike I read that in some years, these places have been cases of tick-borne encephalitis.
Even gave name "of the disease Kumlinge"if I have correctly translated the phrase Kumlinge desease.
In åland there are no diagnostic laboratories where you can take the tick for analysis.
But the Islands go bus tick - tick-borne buses and doing vaccination of the inhabitants.

But in addition to encephalitis are much more frequent cases of disease infection Lyme(borreliosis).
It is often asymptomatic, vaccine is not, and the consequences are not less dangerous than the encephalitis.
The causative agent of the disease - bacteria of the spirochetes enter the human body from the intestine of the tick.
The first signs, if any, appear in a period of 2 to 40 days after infection.
The main symptoms - headache, aching muscles, nausea and vomiting and the main round spots on skin - migratory Eritrea.
Treated in the early stages, well with the help of antibiotics.
Us against the contagion was only one antibiotic - ciprofloxacin(suggest once doxycycline).
Well, I still hope that this Cup will pass us.
Although a tick bite is akin to Russian roulette with the only difference that the drum is not on seven, but a much larger number of cartridges.

The girls looked a little upset.
Julia a somewhat lesser extent because it has never been faced with these blood-sucking, unlike the us, where in the Urals, a large area of their distribution and natural focus of encephalitis.

Andrey is also frantically looked around from head to toe. But found nothing on myself.

The procedure was finished just in time.
Our white Alfageln silently crept to the pier, the iron giant growing up before our eyes.
From here we had to cross into the next åland municipality.

This time the weather was great and didn't have to sit inside the ferry.
From its decks you can enjoy the passing Islands.
Åland is definitely beautiful, but after visiting the Norwegian archipelagos such, does not produce too strong of an impression.
Beauty is not as loud, defiant, as if muffled.
Paint is blurry , the landscapes saratogian.
Watercolor vs oil.

The ferry gave a whistle - ahead he saw the outlines of the island Does.