In search of the Moomin-Dole

Prague's charm Osthammar

Chapter in which Mumia and hemul eat to satiety the whole day with small breaks,enjoying the unusual warmth, abundance of berries and fall asleep in the bushes overlooking the city fountain

Mileage: 78 miles | Weather: +24 (sun)


Alarm clock on a mobile phone raised the travellers nor the crack of dawn. It was time to go - the ferry will not wait.
This morning we were limited to hot tea to keep the stomach space for a buffet.
While I gathered the scarf chilly Willy was wrapped in a windbreaker.
Cloudy coolness Aland early morning slowly crawled into every corner of the sleepy body.

The port of Berghamn already lived a full life.
String a few cars lined up to the control booth.

From this harbour transport is operated by the Finnish ferry company Eckero Line and Eckero Linjen
The first carries traffic using two vessels between Helsinki and Tallinn.
And the second runs between Aland and Sweden(grisslehamn)
The journey time is just two and a half hours , but it is much less than from Helsinki to Stockholm ferries Vking line or Silja line. Yes, and the issue price is incomparable.
Until 1982, then went to a small court and only with the development of tourism, the company began to purchase multi-decked ships only slightly inferior in size to competitors on the line Helsinki-Stockholm.
And internal service, as it turned out, even beyond.

The ticket price was calculated cleverly - it cost 9 euros on the way there and back. That is, as if encouraging passengers to return to åland the same way.
And then the trip will cost 2 times cheaper.
If you go in one direction only - that is your problem and there is no discount.
Bikes - for free.

To pay directly on the control and go into the hold of the vessel, obeying the gestures of the traffic controller.
The procedure worked out - of prikryl velocity to the sides not to fall in the pitching and on the top deck to watch the sail and look over the surroundings from the height of the sixth floor.

Right on schedule the ferry moved away from PRical and headed for Sweden.

Time to lose and we were not rushed in the cafe.
The buffet on the ferry is cheap (8 Euro) and surprisingly diverse.
Then when we returned home to Silla was able to compare a meal.
So the food at Silla was a lot worse at a higher price.
Task nalopatsya half forward was done perfectly

Grisslehamn met unusually warm weather. Had to remove the åland jackets and pants.
Truly summer weather. Still on the Islands is much cooler.

The village of Grisslehamn(Grisslehamn) in the 14th century, was located 20 km South of its present position and served as one of the links of mail delivery between the two countries.
But in the middle of the 18th century much of the village burned down and it was decided to rebuild the city to its present place, to make it shorter route when delivering mail.
Participation in postal matters and fishing are the main occupations of the local population at the time.
Now the city's prominence is supported by the extremely popular ferry crossing.

And the more strange in light of this fact, it seemed that the road leading to the Harbor is extremely narrow and only.
One lane one way and one another.
To such stepeni that even my bike was not easy to go there.
The curb in some places is almost there and we had to go around the edge of the track.
But in doing so we blocked the clearance for vehicles - they were able to overtake us.
But of course patiently went back and honked.
I sometimes look back and saw the tail of the machine we gathered behind him.
Periodically, the conscience woke up, and, taking advantage of any pocket from our side, we rode down the pavement and passed a certain number of cars.
But the stream off the ferry and walked endless, and wait until they all pass I wanted and again we started down the road blocking the road polite Scandinavians.

To top it off we had to go South for a while, moving away from the next intended target (we were on the North side of Gavle). The road skirted a long, narrow fjord, and the first bridge across it was only 20 km away.
I guess when the road will spamat and build the crossing opposite Grisslehamn.
But the matter is complicated by the fact that then have to build another bridge over the same fjord located West and parallel to the first.
Apparently so far the costs do not match traffic from a port in the Northern direction.
And on the car go round it is half an hour.

But in General, the port and its surroundings left only a feeling of irritation and bewilderment.
And we breathed a sigh of obucheniem when she moved out finally with a narrow road on the bridge over the Bay.

Over the bridge turned to polyprolene the road to the village Havero
Began a typical Swedish idyllic countryside.
However, Nelia was looking for the path of beauty of nature, but only berries and grass every. She on the vegetation of an eye.
The result is full of black currant, such a large which in my garden do not exist.

In Chaverim(Havero) is a cemetery with an ancient medieval Church.

In Sweden, the Evangelical Lutheran Church in 2000 was separated from the state.
However c the separation of Church and state came into force "Law on the Church of Sweden" , which controls the Church, it was Lutheran, national and democratic.

Officially the Church of Sweden became Lutheran religion in 1593, when the Synod of the Swedish Church in Uppsala adopted the Augsburg confession, Lutheran doctrine was declared mandatory for the entire Swedish Kingdom./> With the twentieth century, the Church of Sweden mostly preach liberal Christianity and defending human rights.

And so for example in 2009 the Church of Sweden began to bless and to register same-sex marriages.
Therefore, the Church of Sweden has become one of the first churches in the world, departing from the concept of heterosexual marriage as traditional.
And just a couple of months ago in the Church of Sweden Bishop of Stockholm built an open lesbian, a 55-year-old Eva Bruno.
Brunei Darussalam became the world's first Bishop-a lesbian and the fifth woman Bishop in Sweden.

The head of the Church of Sweden is the Archbishop of Uppsala since 2006 is Anders Wejryd.
Members of the Church are 75% of the Swedish population.
However, only 2% attend services weekly

The German word Kirche akin to Swedish kirka, the English church and the Russian Church, ultimately ascending to the Greek means "of the Lord."

Lutheran Church( called the Church or kirk) to Chaverim was empty.
Mysterious heavy oak door opened the entrance in the dim vaulted hall.
The main space of the hall was occupied by the Nave.
Here are places for members of the special bench, without leaving behind which you can kneel.
In front of the altar was a passage talking about produce here the processions.
The transverse nave is a small enclosure, separated the main nave from the altar area.
At the side of the altar, on a special balcony, is another important element of Lutheran churches — Evangelical pulpit.

Everywhere on the benches lay a thick book - the Bible. For each individual location - by the book.
Lutheranism — Protestant movement in Christianity.
Arose as a result of the reform movement in Germany in the XVI century and soon came to Sweden. Where gradually as a result of the reformation, the Catholic religion wouldLa substituted.
The main principles of the creed of the Lutheran Church were formulated in the course of the struggle of Martin Luther and his followers against the abuses of the Roman Catholic Church on the one hand and more radical Protestant movements on the other.

Lutherans profess the divine-human nature of Jesus Christ, crucified on the cross, descended into hell, resurrected and ascended to heaven to the end of time come again for judgment over the living and the dead, and recognize two sacraments: baptism and communion.

We Neleus sat in the Church to feel the spirit of old times and perhaps a Belief which is lacking in all modern people.

The next town - the city of Hull(Hallstavik)
Here we got food at the supermarket.
The city is known for another on our way to the paper mill.
It was located at the end of a long narrow fjord Edeboviken, which I mentioned earlier.
The plant is owned by the company Holmen paper and has its own harbour and a couple of ships for export.


Here, along the fjord, only from the opposite side of the plant, the railroad and parallel Avtomobilnaya where we actually went. The trees for the factory is almost not visible, only audible rumble, metal knocks, gnashing.
Not too pleasant background for pedaling.
Well, we quickly skipped this phase and again indulged in the beauty and the emptiness of the perfect asphalt track.
Berries again - this time raspberry.
It began to rain, but we waited at the sprawling paws tall pines. So even to dress in protection was not necessary.

Such a leisurely Makar we reached the town of Wismar(Hargshamn), located by the sea, where he decided to make a halt.
Because I thought that there is some promenade with benches.
About the way it turned out.
But it was not the promenade, and the local equipped beach near the campsite.

About an hour enjoying the warm sun and yoghurt scones.
Nel worn out and she managed to sleep five minutes like a horse:)

In this part of Sweden there are many sites that can be called a Museum under the open sky.
Unfortunately I have not found anywhere with detailed descriptions.

First it was the white house on the Bay built in the German style.
In the garden surrounding it we found a bunch of ecoculture.
That is, sculptures made of natural materials, or the style of them.
Herbal first-person snag and. There was a long walk and around every corner was hiding some kind of surprise.
Sorry did not get in the house, it was already about 17 hours and it was closed there is also what the exhibition was, but in the Swedish language Nelia is not strong. But as it turned out in English.
She knew him a little worse than Andrew and all the while as we drove along, carefully concealed his knowledge, without betraying his knowledge and providing Andrey Shine in all its glory the original interpreter.
What is this natural modesty or feminine wiles, I don't know:)


In the area of the town marked on the map as Harg I came across another what is the ethnic Museum.
Most likely showing the development of the rural economy of past centuries.
It began with a dam on the river flowing from lake Lohamarsjon and flowing into the sea.
Then a bunch of some buildings(farms or warehouses) and old farm equipment between them.
All of this is completely deserted and looks pretty creepy even in the daylight.
All the time not feeling that you stopped in some protected zone where not to be followed here and here you will hear the shout of a guard.

It crowns the complex is cute.sufficient clock tower and a number of residential(and possibly none) of the houses in the old Swedish style.
Here in the Outback of Sweden can not tell where is the Museum where people! Everywhere the emptiness and dead silence.

Not to go on, though desolate, but the road to the ultimate goal of this day - the city Osthammar, turned onto a dirt road into the woods.
Primer on the map was approximately in parallel and also banked to the right place.

And have not regretted. Again, a lot of berries this time of my beloved blueberry and a magnificent forest Park.
Here I first saw how the local people collect berries for themselves and not buy them at markets or stores. Still nothing human is alien to them, I thought:)

Generally speaking, in Sweden and in other Scandinavian countries extended the invitation to foreign workers for picking berries on an industrial scale.
Scandinavians themselves for such work are not go - too little payment.
No technique not used - only human hands.
Moreover, devices such harvesters exist, such closed shovels with teeth.
But the Scandinavians don't use them - they reduce the yield of berry bushes several times.

And the work of collecting extremely stressful and in my opinion what semi-slave.
But wishing no end, especially coming from Eastern Europe.
And more recently from Thailand (collectors rice was best adapted for this work)

Work is strictly regulated.
The working day lasted 8 hours, an hour for lunch and two breaks of 15 minutes on the toilet.
1 kg strawberries are paid 0.8 euros.
Of course, to collect the strawberries on a flat and manicured garden beds is much easier than cloudberries or lingonberries.
Pay for them accordingly : 1 kg cloudberries - 7 euros
blueberry - 1.85 euros,
cranberries - 1 Euro
strawberry – 0,80 - 1 Euro.(this is the price of 2008)

So a day at the gathering for instance strawberry people makes about 50-70 euros.
Cloudberry is most advantageous to collect. But berry is more rare than the other,we never got caught for the entire trip. However, we do not iskali especially:)

The fee goes in any weather. Midges and mosquitoes, the rain or the heat no one cares.
Is the norm - whether it is good to perform the time came.
It is necessary to sit constantly on his haunches, so people with varicose veins or osteochondrosis contraindicated.


By eight o'clock we finally reached the city Osthammar(Osthammar)

Wander a bit through the suburbs and went to the sea and immediately fell in a very picturesque place, where a small island was connected by bridges with the shore.

On this island I would have a view of the entire coastline of the city.
Östhammar is home to around 5,000 residents.
The history starts in the year 1368, when he granted city status by order of the then king albert.
Here a castle was built, but then it burned for some reason. I don't quite understand.
Dark ages were the middle ages one word.
Everyone was beaten, burned and poisoned.

Now this is a very cute town. We rode a bit on it. Colorful well maintained, narrow streets. Of attractions course town hall.
Fountain on the beach and the yacht port.
A kind of Swedish Prague.

Of the industries located there to distinguish the company Arronet Technology AB.
It produces a whole wide range of aluminium boats.
Boats here are all the stages of building, from sheet metal to fully finished boat ready for sale.
The entire process of construction goes on sovremennoi high-tech proizvodstvennoi line.

And of course that has done so much noise in the scientific world associated with nuclear ENergatikou.
District Osthammar this summer after twenty years of research chosen for long-term disposal of high level waste.
For 100 thousand years and then they will be in underground tunnels Forsmark where will be built the system of tunnels at a depth of 500 metres below the surface.
Them in specialized containers will be placed in spent nuclear fuel and high-level radioactive waste.

The construction of the repository will begin in 2016 and should be completed in 2022-2024 years.
Residents Olshammar supported the project - it gets up to 80% of the population.
This will give many new jobs and no one is afraid of this neighborhood for some reason.

But more about Forsmark and the nuclear issue in the next Chapter.
We will pass this place in the immediate vicinity.

Not far from the Central promenade of the city, just 5 minutes away by Bicycle was located the only campsite.
Nelia was very tired and needed to find a place nearby. I was even willing in a pinch to pay up like all obedient citizens.

But first, I want to still look for a free place.
The benefit of the experience of the bed near the campsites was great.
Leaving his friend on the bench, scoured the area.
Refuge was found on the island Krutudden saidenova two bridges to the mainland (again, two bridge!).
It is something like a sparse grove and city beach.
Here at the back end of this beach in the shade of a few sprawling trees and dense Bush I decided to put up a tent.
Bush was well covered us from the beach. Even ten feet away the tent was invisible.
Well, from accidentally wandering people to hide tasks was not.


Drove for a friend and soon every evening the work began.
Grammand, the tent and lights out.
Nelia whole trip's been great.
No whining and no moaning. But it was evident that she is a burden.
Maybe not enough love for the bike, maybe a girlfriend, which broke up before their time.
And possibly something else.

"My soul is silent about the truth.
Is she laughing or crying softly.
She does not remember and does not protect
And not able to elevate others."

Edith Sedergran, Swedish poet