In search of the Moomin-Dole

Farewell to the Islands

Chapter in which Hatifnats and Little my relief turned to the South, Mumla realizes the eternal dream of bathing, and hemul breaks camp with views of Sweden

Mileage: 45 km | Temperature: +23 (sun)


This morning to rise decidedly not wanted.
The fact that we had a breakup.
Anrey with Julia who ended a short break was going to go home through the capital of åland - Mariehamn.
And we Neleus kept on going in Sweden.
Maybe the guys suddenly let go a collective responsibility to obey the common cause and mentally they are already divided.

Hardly raised them. Only the threat is ostyvshy. and already cooked me porridge to take effect.
Cursing the boring and tedious Hamula, not giving pampers bones and bodies in the warm embrace of the sleeping bag, the Moomin characters came out into the light.
The sun was hot already does (if that word is appropriate for the cold Scandinavia)
Whether the sadness of the upcoming separation, or the lack of sleep made our girls narusheniiami and grouchy.
Even delicious oats with other ingredients are too weak lifted their mood.

Meanwhile, our clearing protected from the wind became really hot. Pulled to swim.
Well Andrei and undressed properly and went to the beach. Julia with us. Nelia and even hyped - wearing a swimsuit and for us.
But her spirit was enough only to scaffolding.
There the icy wind åland instantly dispelled her desire. She said - Oh, no! and wrapped in a towel.
To be honest, and I don't want to splash around in the water. But once decided if you need it.
Besides, cheer up would not hurt.

Andrew decided to show the valiant daring and climbed the tower.
He's up there, playing biceps and other prominent parts of the body, preparing for a jump. I managed to photograph all phases of this Grand accomplishment.
I myself of course also plunged.
the water is not conducive to the long journey.
A myriad of thin needles of vansilas in the body, disperse stagnant blood.
I had enough for a few strokes in one and a couple in the other direction. Jumped like a scalded cat.
And who said that åland is one of the best places for swimming in all of Scandinavia!

The group finally and on the road.
Have Bjarstrom on a fork held a Grand farewell.

Alien soul - darkness! Honestly, I don't know what feelings have broken up the trip participants.
And hardly anyone will tell the truth. Perhaps with relief. Perhaps with regret.
I know one thing for sure - despite the various kinds of friction and rejection of each other but we rode together.
Everyone then gathered for myself, probably even concluded.
And I was grateful to Andrew and Julia, they can come too and helped his energy and otimismo it is better to consider places travelled, more to absorb the local flavor.
Who knows if they'd stayed with us until the very end - it did not matter what happened subsequently.
Perhaps we lacked the wisdom and endurance of Andrew and Julia optimism.

But life does not tolerate the subjunctive mood.
And each went on his way.

We Neleus had to drive through the municipality of Eckero and reach the West coast of the åland Islands.
Not to say that the task was daunting)

My companion claimed vposledstvii that I completely changed after we were left alone.
Became more caring, and more attentive. I might be down Chamula and more himself.
Honestly at a loss to explain what is the reason:)

After driving some distance, we Neleus turned off the post road on the primer.
There was a sign of the route and it was stupid not to use it.
The result was decided in the woods to ride.
I figured that would be a roundabout way to go to the shore to the campsite shown on the map.
But the trail led only to the cell tower.
But again, the berries eaten from the navel)

The Royal road leads to the municipality of Eckero is located on a large West island, through the graceful humpbacked bridge.
Just over the bridge I saw another beach and could not resist not to stop there.
There we hung an hour and a half. Extremely cozy place with a couple tables and a footbridge for bathing the body.
I noted here.
The day was one of the hottest in all previous times.

If you walk down the beach and climb the hill in addition to panoramas surrounding the archipelago, you can walk through the light forest with plenty of moss.
The Nelia and realized his dream to lie on it and RUB my skin about natural antibiotics.

Eckero in fact it is almost certainly Sweden - here 90% of the population speak only Swedish.

Even though Finland åland semi-independent education
Has its own legislative body - lighting
Provincial office of åland Islands by the government of the majority, consisting of 5 or 7 Ministers headed by the Prime Minister (provincial Advisor).
In the fields of economy, culture, health, transport, police, mail and television åland act almost as an independent state with its legislation and administration.
1954 åland has its own flag and since 1984, his postage stamp.
And then they tried to go even further, and minted its own coins.
But this time Finland, terpel until now, resisted, and gave åland the rulers on the cap.
Of course those were wiped away and the coin became known to numismatists.

On the most Western tip of the island is located the village of Storby.
From theres port of Berghamn ferry boats of the company Eckero Linen in Sweden.
The closer to the port, the greater was the flow of cars and people on bicycles.
Obviously they were in a hurry to the ferry which I know runs twice a day, but the exact departure times were unknown.
Although I say the thread is should not be misleading.
This thread is not a long line of cars that is rush hour for example stand on the streets of our Russian cities. The flow is just when the cars became somewhat more than their complete absence.
Without further ADO, we decided to drive up and see the schedule, although in the evening to go to Sweden in the plans was not included.

The harbour is quite small and I would even say chamber.
A deserted waiting room with a bunch of advertising leaflets. And the bulk of the ferry uplifting behind.
He departed exactly at 18 00 in the evening. Just as many we have come. The loading is already completed, and the ramp raised.
We didn't even notice as he walked away from the pier and headed for Sweden, in silence. Literally got distracted for a few moments while researching prices and schedules and see that the ship is already there.
No noise of engines, no screams of the sailors, no beeps, nothing that usually involve presenting the work of the port.
If not a multi-ton edifice, a nimble mouse. Grabbed a piece of cheese and the hole.

The ticket price was calculated cleverly - it cost 9 euros on the way there and back. That is, as if encouraging passengers to return to åland the same way.
And then the trip will cost 2 times cheaper.
If you go in one direction only - that is your problem and there is no discount.
Bikes - for free.
The next day the ferry departed at 7am and it suited us perfectly.

It remains the case for small - to wash Nel, which is camping in Kumlinge already the third day did not take in hands a loofah, all itched and itched.
I not talking about hair - the feeling of dirt in which to women is like death.
I write all this not out of sarcasm, and due to the fact that during the campaign, my views changed and some of the intransigence in the known issues subsided. I almost learned how to put ourselves in the place of my companion, and to understand its problems in this area.
All this taken together made me restrain aversion to camping and washing , and Nele, in turn, began to demand an indispensable stop them.
There was a partial migration habits towards each other, which of course could not but rejoice, because ulusal microclimate in our suddenly neutered by the departure of friends Cycling team.

On the map taken at the seaport on North from Storby there were several campsites there we go.
But I had to ride about eight miles before I found an acceptable solution.
In the first kempinge was the magnetic card on the door amenities. To hold it was necessary to disburse the night.
To repeat the exploits of my friend Rinat, nothing sasasegawa to go inside waiting for someone from the legitimate users, not wanted.
And Nelia has always been against such blatant freebies.
I had to go on.
Local campsites located in scenic areas.
We even lingered a bit enjoying the beaches and the creativity of some campers.

Only in the third Hummelvik camping luck smiled modestly Ufa travelers.
The shower was open to all. But only hot water paid. Cold wash up all you like, and for hot we had to throw a coin into the machine dosator. Cost is fun 1 Euro for 4 minutes of bathing.
Robbery of course from my point of view, but there was nothing.
Providing Mullu enough Europalace, I left her to enjoy the best moments during the journey.
And in the meantime decided to find a place to sleep.
The task of the Aland Islands is not so simple and easy.
/> I wanted to put up a tent as close as possible to the port that morning not to waste time on the road.
So went back to the sea.

Located near postal Museum and Customs - old yellow mansion built by architect Carl Engel (also the Senate building in Helsinki)
In this same mansion was Guesthouse - private rooms for backpackers (like a hostel)
And past it was a track to the local beach.
That's it what I found is protected from prying eyes by shrubs and trees on the lawn.
If someone made it for me. Awesome place with views of the Baltic sea. Near the sea and the coastal granite rocks.
Protected from excessive wind a bend in the shoreline and vegetation.

Really explore the neighborhood unpleasantly struck by so unusual for Scandinavia the picture that was used in the Crimea, but here it was weird.
And exactly how would it pokulturnee to speak - shit.
Yes, Yes, exactly!
In the Crimea the wild otdyxa in the absence of latrines poop black sea coastal line in the literal, not figurative sense, like a flock of seagulls after a heavy fish meal.
But here! Cultural Finland!
I was amazed in its most bright feelings.
Someone will laugh at nel - she always mockingly refers to my enthusiastic perception of Scandinavia.

But unable to find the free of human excrement and place remote enough from them to not feel disgust.
So don't think if I traded a paid overnight camping in the tent in a smelly environment.
The place was actually very successful from all points of view - one of the most spectacular of nights for the entire trip.

When he returned 40 minutes later to Nele found her just released from amenities.
And extremely pleased. How little women really need to be happy:)
Looking her satisfied face I could not resist myself from hot bathing.
Of course, I had one coin - well I'm not a fan for a long time to go water my teles.
In addition, the volume and the area is not so great as to spend a lot of cubic meters:)
Here gathered water for gotchi food and drink. The side of the building kranchik with the hose and the words drink water.
Although here in my any water quite a drink.

On the way back to the campsite noticed a huge hangar - it was the largest concert and entertainment hall for all the åland Islands. Just apparently there is someone made for flocked there well-dressed people.

Finally brought Nel to the place of deployment. She seemed to like it. But after bathing she does not agree to this.
Nearby was located the fishing boat sheds with. And a little further into the Bay, the hotel Elvira(Elvira)
Perhaps it was his infrastructure.
Some people were fishing, walking. and I just slusky decided to put the tent up later when it gets dark.
And yet launched its mobile kitchen and a tablecloth Samobranka.
A hearty Dinner overlooking the Gulf of Bothnia and swim to the port court!.

Their appearance gave some thoughts on what he saw in these places earlier.
The fact that the ferry all the passengers usually devour three throat - one buffet worth.
Of course between the eating and the urge to have a bowel movement there is some time lag.
The ferry is only two hours from Sweden and has time to approach.
That is the time for the people to catch in the cultural latrine can not stay.
Out they trooped out. Here come all sorts of excursions. Guides lead them to the postal Museum and Customs, rubbed about the architect and about how people fought for the timely delivery of letters. And here again! Ajar.
What to do? Each solves the problem to the best of their habits and education.
I want to Express special thanks to the Light Solovieva over the ground for hypothesis:)
Even if it is absolute nonsense and has nothing to do with reality.

Nelia went to wash the dishes and having slipped on the slippery stones long rattled Mosley and metal circles for algae-covered granite slabs, poor thing.
The roar was such that I thought you are inviting the whole County!
Completely unmasked our secret plan of action:)
Thank God he remained alive. But aduceti plague, survived her until better times. Lurked for a while:)

Dark. Put up a tent and we went to sleep under the a / C the Passat, as it should be steadily blowing with an enviable constancy.
His power in my estimation varied according to the Beaufort scale from 3 points to 2 on the shore at the tent.
That of Admiral Francis deceased mentioned, is not the night to be told:)