In search of the Moomin-Dole

"Only death will us part!"

Chapter in which Hatifnats finally establishes the transport, the spirit of king Johan excites the senses, hemul enthusiastically sees "the oasis of the seas", and Valley of Grace meets us resort mood

Mileage: 25 miles | Weather: +26 (sun)

... It was in the 16th century after Christ.
Castle gray bulk was rising from the water.
Inside it reigned joyful excitement.
The servants prepared rooms for the masters and covered the tables in the Mead hall.

At opposite ends of the hall were huge pockets.
From the constant soot of the wooden rafters and the beams under the roof were thickly covered with a glossy crust of soot, as black lacquer.
On the walls hung a variety of accessories for hunting and combat weapons, tapestries depicting biblical scenes, and in the corners of the room were folding doors that led into other rooms of the vast house.

A special pride of the owner was a huge library in which were the works of "father of the Finnish language and literature" by Bishop Mikael Agricola.
Duke Johan is the youngest son of the king of Sweden Gustav I was preparing for the arrival of his young wife.


Finally the Windows came a piercing trill, the buglers.
The sound of hooves and clouds of dust on the horizon heralded the arrival of Catherine of Jelonki.
She was the sister of the Polish king and her marriage with the Swedish Duke meant the relationship of the two dynasties Vazassky and Angelinskiy)

Strong-willed, smart and beautiful Polish Princess was the one getting married.
To marry was going Russian Tsar Ivan the terrible!
Who knows if it was Russian, and the story went in a very different direction.
Perhaps the tenderness of women would diminish the cruel temper of the autocrat.

A happy marriage would last seven years.
And then between the Duke and his elder brother, Eric XIV, who changed the time on the thronee his father, strife broke out.
Eric did not share the thoughts of Johan of their own state and sent to Turku troops with orders to pacify the brother.
The castle of Turku was captured within three days, and Johan imprisoned Swedish castle Gripsholm.

Gripsholm castle is on the shore of lake Malaren (Malaren) in the small town of Mariefred (Mariefred) in 60 kilometers South-West of Stockholm.

It there was held the famous concert under the open sky, which my friend Rinat had the pleasure to watch and listen from the opposite Bank at the end of our month bike tour across Sweden.

The king of Sweden has offered Catarina freedom, but she as a young faithful to my beloved husband indignantly rejected it, and in response showing engagement ring is engraved in Latin: "Only death will separate us."

Katherine and John were released in 1568.
A year later she became Queen of Sweden and her husband became king Johan III after the overthrow of Eric XIV.

Interestingly John never forgave my brother and he in turn had locked Eric in the dungeons of the castle of Turku.
And at first, living conditions were relatively free and were limited to the rooms of the castle.
But then Eric tried to run, concluded a proxy agreement with the same Ivan the Terrible.
The plot was discovered and Eric were placed in a small prison room hexagonal tower front of the castle.
Subsequently he was poisoned with arsenic on secret order of Johan, pour the poison in a bowl of pea soup.

Alas those were the mores of the middle ages.
Even blood relatives don't sentimental with each other.
After alltakoi in this fight was the power and sometimes life.
But five centuries later in people's lives, little has changed in fact. Except that interiors and fashion.

Jagiellonka died in the castle of Stockholm in fifteen years, and is buried in the Cathedral of Uppsala.

John III was survived by her 9 and was buried in the same tomb where he had buried his wife.

But all this will happen smego later, but the castle in Turku was having fun and dancing.
During the ceremony the orchestra played, delighting the hearing of the assembled guests, eye pleasing fun of dwarfs and court jesters....

Aura carried their murky but clean water to the Gulf of Finland.
Sleep slowly left me and mind to swim out from the depth of centuries re-transferred holding his body in the twenty-first century. It was time to get up.

The day was very warm. While we were packing our camp and had Breakfast in the Park come to life.
Started to jog and people to walk their dogs.
Some puzzled looked at us.
Probably for the first time seen them in the Park that unfolded the tent.
Probably also would feel I find in the Park Gafuri camp some people.

Way back in the centre of Turku a lot of time not taken.
And in the first bike shop kindly suggested to us by a local girl, Andrew found a 26 inch wheel Assembly for only 70 Euro
Even by our standards it is quite cheap considering a sleeve Shimano and the double-rim. The price paid for carelessness could be higher)

Joy, that's all normal hemul bought Mumle free small bike bell, so it's not lost in the Scandinavian wilderness and gave the magical trills travelled space.

Completely ready for further ways four people on bicycles, all the more turn into creatures of the Finnish village, went along the river to I dreamed by night the castle of ABO isin the mouth of aura river.

That day in Turku has passed the stage of international regatta The Tall Ships Races , and the city sailed a flotilla of vessels big and small from all over the world.
They have a string tied up along the river Bank and was a terrific magnificence of the picture.


The current event is on the route Gdynia-St. Petersburg-Turku-Klaipeda.
The regatta involved 18 vessels grade A: this kind of record, as earlier in Turku've never seen at the same time such a great number of sailboats.
To this class belong all sailing vessels with the direct sail and other boats with a hull length of 40 meters and more.

The quay was full motley crowd and speaking different languages Twitter bird hovered in the air.
At first it was possible to go by Bicycle.
But as you get closer to the center of the festival, the crowd became denser and we were forced to dismount.
Moreover, there hung the sign prohibition for bikes.
The promenade is quite narrowed and move the crowd with loaded tales had no meaning.
The castle was very close and we turned to him.

Unlike Central Europe, in Scandinavia a little ancient palaces and fortresses.
Affects the distance from the main arena of action took place closer to the South.
The richness of the history of Finland is much less than the various signature events.
Still it is a quiet pastoral country on the periphery of the main events in world civilization.
Sometimes even passions raging here when what seem like toys, not as bloody and brutal as in Russia or France.

Castle in Turku is one of the oldest monuments in Finland.
Parked our bikes at a white wall, we entered through a massive wooden gate in courtyard.
The oldest medieval part of the castle, the main fortress has a rectangular shape, and its West and East ends are solid square towers.
The long sides of the castle look like the wings of constructions four floor.
In the XV century began to build further outside the main fortress the new fortress, called the front of the fortress.

The idea of the castle in Turku was this : the next time you attack the enemies should be easy and quickly to bring the people into the camp of the castle, and as quickly withdraw.

Our girls are very organically looked in the interiors of the old walls.
Julia could be as courtly lady , and Jagelonski. If you look closely in physical appearance have something in common.
And Nelia for example the daughter of a Saracen who came to sell Persian rugs to the North(honestly don't know if it's possible it is:)

The castle was built at the mouth of the river and has a square fortification around the camp with four gates.
The patterns that adorn its walls, and similar ancient Roman citadels.
Its current appearance is the result of many years of restoration work.
After numerous destructive actions committed on its buildings at different times, he presented a deplorable spectacle.
Especially destructive for the castle was the fire of 1614, which started during the visit of Swedish king Gustav II Adolf.

With the 19th century there already nobody lived of nobility and the premises have been used as grain silos , wineries, and even an Arsenal of the Swedish army.
During the Second world war, the castle was heavily destroyed by air raids.


Especially devastating for the castle was the bombing by the Soviet air force that occurred in the summer of 1941 at the beginning of the great Patriotic war.

After leaving the castle, we went finally to the main purpose of today's trip to Naantali.

Bike paths are laid between him and Turku is very beautiful.
And let anyone with a contemptuous twist of the lips, believing that riding on such refined ways is not a true touring.
A true Bicycle rider will certainly have to go knee-deep in mud or shit, sweating, groaning and pulling the navel in the desert or forest bureloma.

It is of course also the place to be.
But riding on such a magnificent paved and gravel trails can not fail to enthrall even the not too committed to the bike man.
This is what turns the bike from elite actions in the mass.
This largely explains why in Europe so many people prefer Bicycle to car.
And do not understand the Russians who are foaming at the mouth that move in an iron box petrol is the height of the slope and comfort.
Not to understand at least until they do not pass on the bike riding from Turku to Naantali:)

On the outskirts of Turku distant sea you can see the shipyard, South Korean firms STX Europe.
But it is not by themselves attracted attention, and the huge ship standing at pier.

We happened to witness (albeit from afar) the final point built the famous cruise liner Oasis of the Seas(Oasis of the seas)
It was built by the order of the company "Royal Caribbean Cruise Line". This is one of the two ships for this company.
The Americans were satisfied and have already ordered a second ship – Allure of the Seas ("the Temptation of the seas"). To build it will be on the same STX Europe that "Oasis".

The parameters of the ship of course stagger the imagination.
The construction cost of about one million euros.
Displacement of the ship "Oasis of the Seas" – 220 thousand tons.
The length of the liner is 360 metroin (more than the Eiffel tower)
The height of 72 meters above the waterline.
The ship has 16 passenger decks, 2,700 cabins and at maximum load, the vessel can accommodate 6 630 passengers and 2 160 crew members.

The service speed of 22.6 knots, which is 41.9 km / h.
The vessel is equipped with telescopic pipes, which can reduce the height if we have to swim under the bridge.
The way they came in handy when three months after our campaign built the "Oasis" sailed to the Caribbean.
When approaching the exit from the Baltic sea, the ship approached the Great belt bridge connecting Danish Islands of Zealand and Funen, local authorities have 15 minutes blocked the traffic.
"The oasis of the seas" does not hurt at inter-island construction is only due to the fact that his telescopic pipe have emerged.
But with folded pipes he was out only some two feet to the bottom of the bridge.

Inside the ship is built in a world that can't leave for months.
Passengers can relax in the shade of these trees, as on the ship, for the first time in the world, planted a Park of 12 thousand exotic live plants and shrubs and 56 trees.
On Board the ship has a large original handcrafted carousel, swimming pools with Jacuzzi, water Park with a water arena, a climbing wall, a casino, shops and boutiques where you can buy any food and clothing for all tastes, restaurants and bars.
Also built a 750-seater amphitheatre with water fountains, trampolines and diving towers in the open air and indoor theatre, with 1,300 seats and numerous clubs and dance floors.
In fact it is not even a floating city, and the island!
Involuntarily, an analogy with the flying island in Jonathan swift:)

And the analogy with the Titanic is not too relevant.
The creators claim that the vehicle is extremely safe. And the presence of the 18 emergency closed boats accommodating 330 people each will not be given to anyone die.

"The oasis of the seas" is not only the largest and most expensive but also the most environmentally friendly cruise liner.
All the consumed water on it (the scheduled daily volume 2350 litres) cleaned and re-used in the sea will not leave even a waste of the sewers!

Imagine for a moment that the ship was built in Russia. No matter how much time it took?
And Finnish workaholic rivet like colossus in just 18 months (of which half the time is finish)!!!!
A small country, and produces many high-tech things, starting with mobile phones and ending with ocean liners.
Amazing course and jealous.

...In the early 14th century in the family of a Swedish aristocrat a little girl named Brigid.
And she was destined to become a Saint.
Despite the prosperity and wealth of the environment in which she grew up, Brigid youth, gave preference to spiritual values and cared little about the material.
She was married at 13 years and she bore eight children.
And constantly helped the sick and the poor in the district.
But after the death of her husband she is passed away from the world, she began to be a vision and she could see future events.
Society is no longer interested in widow aristocrat and she founded an order of nuns after she was a virgin, and commanded to serve God.
It became known that he translated into Swedish Latin sermons.

During her life the Pope did not give her to build a monastery.
And by a strange coincidence died shortly thereafter.
In 1352 the bell tower of St. Peter was set on fire by a lightning strike.
All the bells fell to the ground, broke, and melted, as if stirred in the crucible.
The monastery in Vadstena, was completed after the death of Bridget, who was canonized after 20 years.

After it left the mass of philosophical prophecy which are recorded and published many times on Latin and other languages.
In fact, she was such nebezizvestnogo Nostradamus.
In Finland the order of St. Bridget; after several removals, settled in the town Norendal (which means Valley of grace)
And soon built around the order of the monastery was the city now known as Naantali.

Here in the 19th century discovered the healing springs and the town became a popular resort.
The omnipresent Emperor of all Russia Alexander III in addition to fishing in Kotka loved to relax in Naantali.
Instead to raise their country was squandered, the Russian money in the local restaurants.
And with it reached here, and our other fellow citizens - nobles and officers.
They had fun with the local trouble-free fat Fink.

Streets with old houses is very picturesque.
It is interesting that lived here, the country's only pirate (as in Finnish!) named Otto.
Say highly respected citizens.

Once daily at 8 PM from the tower of the monastery, hear the enchanting sounds of a horn.
The medieval tradition of playing the hymns on the trumpet revived here just 30 years ago.
And it gives the already chilling the city is an additional highlight.
The thinking literally stops for a while, until the trumpeter pulls out her tool magical sounds.

The city is a large five-star SPA hotel and several institutions easier.

The hotel consists of 2 buildings of SPA and hotel luxury 6-deck yacht, the "Sunborn Princess" moored to beroga, which also plays the role of the hotel.
Prices from 100 Euros a day on land up to 300 Euros on the ship.
All 390 hotel rooms are equipped according to the highest standards and the best of them are just gorgeous.
Surprisingly, we Ufa some scuzzy hotel takes about the same. And the difference as enormous.

Here nearby was built the summer residence of the Finnish President.
Tarja Halonen is coming here to rest from politics.
And no tourists are allowed to walk the estate and explore the beauty of the Park. Here's the Finnish democracy in action.

But besides all this the city is famous for the place where we actually went.
Here on the small island of kailo(Kailo) is built for detishek fabulous Moomin-Dale. The characters of fairy tales of the Finnish writer Tove Jansson.

Signs of this place appear before the town.
Numerous signs, specialty buses pulling her even Mumm-toilets.
Do not sign inside which you know was impossible:)

With the bikes in the Moomin-Dol was forbidden to call.
In principle, to leave our bikes anywhere Naantali was not terrible. Don't think many would have coveted our sweaty t-shirts and shorts.
Except that tourists from other less scrupulous countries.

But Andrew is perfectly fluent in the language of Shakespeare has managed to charm a local girl selling tickets in the Moomin-Dale. And she kindly agreed to hide our horses in the basement of an old house that housed the ticket office.
And completely disinterested.
Andrew later offered her a lot of interesting things in gratitude up to Cup the coffee in a relatively private meal, but Finn politely declined, having absolutely no idea what she's missing:)


Finally all the formalities have been settled, and the four travelers went on foot along the promenade with lots of restaurants and cafe white bridge to the island.

As you get closer to the goal of Hatifnats began to crackle with electricity, little my muttered something unhappy about the flies, Mumla the legs folded on the chest and red boots clinked on the stones, and Hamula fluffy tail swaying from side to side, wiped away the dust with pavers.

"It was the end of July, in the Moomin-share there was a terrible heat.
Even flies and they did not find the strength to hum.
Here the Strait began to narrow.
In the gorge between rocky shores could be seen already tender green Moomin-Dole.
And the roof with the fun of a waving flag...
That seemed to turn the river followed by a bridge painted in white color.
Jasmine has blossomed!
Everyone walked so quickly that the water bubbled around; they were busy discussing what they will do when they get home."