In search of the Moomin-Dole

Aland and Vardo - a Russian fortress and a violation of the law

Chapter in which Hatifnats chewing the tablets of history and very active in the kitchen, hemul relishes Aland of milk and joins a group of eaters yodanthipirina, Mumla happy berry feast on the ruins, and Baby MJ do not give rest laurels of a German Baron Friedrich Hieronymus

Mileage: 54 km | Weather +21 (sun)


After disembarking the ferry, trying to get away from the main road, turned right.
It seemed to us that there is a bike path parallelno main post road. The result drove into a dead end and had to return.
But swept through a magnificent pine forest and saw the first and last tent seen on åland and wrecked on the beach near the fishing Lodge.

The island of Vardo one of the ten largest of the Aland Islands.
Translated from Swedish means "lookout". With the same name is a Norwegian island in the Barents sea.
As you can see Scandinavia languages are very intertwined with each other.

The name of the island was given to the Swedish king Magnus Eriksson in 1347
This place was an important link in the establishment of trade relations between Sweden and Finland and on the island at night were burning a different kind of flashing lights - they then gave rise to the name.
By the way, the symbol of the commune Does just the tower with a burning torch on it.
Until 1900 the island was an important point of navigation and the local population had their own sailing vessels that were the source of their wealth.
Since there remained a few captain's mansions.

We were moving along the only road through the island is the Royal mail.
For the local population the postal service in those years was a heavy extra load and people often died on it.
On the island there is even a monument to the postal service.

During the Northern war between Russia and Sweden, the island of Vardo was in the center of the fighting here and in 1719 was held peace talks in the village Lovo(now there is a Museum of local history)
The negotiators were so impressed by the beauty of nature that gave the island its second name - the Magic island

The island is famous for its actuallyth writer - Anni Blomqvist, who wrote a novel about life in the archipelago.
They say in Europe it is very popular.
In Russia hardly anyone read "the Maya of Stormshed" - there is a problem skerries people a little worried.

The ward really I liked the other Islands, although we drove it in just over an hour.
Like some sort of atypical for other Islands in the light and riot of colors.

Met along the way a large group of cyclists from Peter.
A column of them strongly stretched, the boys went far ahead, and behind Naturino pedaled two girls.
Remembered especially one of small stature in glamorous jeans.
She went back and why it was loaded on most do not play.
It almost was not visible because of the huge Pikovsky of the backpack. Backpacks hung on the front wheel.
Probably pearl with a whole wardrobe and inventory of cosmetics for a week.
She puffed a last effort, crawling on low hills Varde.

I waved her hand and promised to send to the aid of Cavaliers, threw the lady to the mercy of the Aland roads.
The island of Vardo joins with neighboring Tofto long beautiful bridge, which opens to a look view of the Straits and a warm breeze gently ruffled his hair.

The Cavaliers caught up closer to the yellow ferry to the next island - Prasto
They were waiting for their girls prolidase near the shore.
So the ferry left without their group.
We were almost the only passengers, except for a few cars.

On the island of Prasto located camping and several cemeteries of different religious denominations.

Soon we went to the famous old bridge connecting the island of Prasto, with the largest island of the archipelago - Aland.
Here on the shores of the Strait of Bomarsund was located the remains of the Russian fortress of the fallen during the Crimean war.

Andrew was keenly interested in Russian history, perhaps more than we do combined.
Girls in General in my opinion it was uninteresting.
Therefore, only blogadarya enthusiastic Hatahata we have climbed almost all the ruins of the fortress on this side of the shore.
Part of the ruins of the fortifications remained on the island of Prasto. To go back already did not.

The fortress which looked like a barracks located in a semi-circle with a fortified outer wall, left a few plots.

In 1809 after the Russian-Swedish war of åland, as well as the whole of Finland became part of Russia, to protect the Western borders where the Islands began construction of the fortress.
Money, as it usually happens with us, not enough and the construction lasted for decades. In addition as Attalos subsequently worked carelessly and walls built too strong.
By fate during the Crimean war of 1854, not having the slightest relation to the Duchy of Finland, with the aim to weaken the position of Russia in the South, the British decided to link Russian troops fighting in the Baltic.

As a result, when the war began Bomarsund ready for military action was not.
While a British squadron was going to Aland , fortress hastily completed, but it was too late.
Protection was the Finnish soldiers (after all, Finland was then part of the Russian Empire), and possibly not very eager to die for the Russian Tsar.

The storming of the fortress led by Lord Jones began on 13 August and lasted several days.
Enemy artillery easily destroyed the walls and bastions of the fortress.
Realizing that soon it will be in ruins, the commandant, wanting to save people, gave the order to surrender.
In captivity were about two thousand Russian, who then were sent to pow camps in France and England.
In all it took about a month and at the end winners to the sounds of music and shouts of "hurrah!" blew up the fortress.

In addition the winners made Russia (and Finland as part of it) the Paris peace Treaty of 1856 to declare Aland Islands demilitarized zone, which they are to this day.

This page of Russian history, now do not like to remember how absolutely disgraceful.
In addition, our state does not honor the memory of the fallen, even the losers, but still our fellow citizens!
On the Bomarsund is a monument of England in honor of their soldiers. A sign on it carefully transferred the Finns on Russian language.
But the monument to Russian soldiers died in the battle there still.

Friedrich Engels wrote at the time:

"It is curious that the Russian, who was so proud of his abilities to assaults, from Perekop and Ochakovo to Warsaw Bystrica, was rebuffed in all their attempts to storm the field fortifications and the famous fortress of Bomarsund was taken, barely receiving this honor, like an open trench.
So we see that the granite walls of Bomarsund nothing like deception Russian — a pile of debris under a thin stone veneer, which are unable any long resist the shrewd and resistant to fire.
Defended Russian whatever; it is possible that the cause of this was quite openly manifested the mood of the Finnish parts"

Around the ancient stones rapidly rasles berry bushes. Red currants and some hybrid - Nelia said with a gooseberry.
The last taste goes is not really too fresh.
While Andrew and Julia was taking pictures of the Russian history Nelia took vitamins.
Subsequently, she repeatedly said that of all the trek for her positive was the berries.
I think she meant it all the same:)

Then Andrew dragged us all to seek remains of the fortress wall. Found only the foundations overgrown with grass.
Angichane thoroughly tried to put down the drain thirty years unfinished.
Next spread a large cemetery, and around it are huge and sweet strawberries!
But even Mumla decided not to have them here to enjoy.

Near the road there was a cafe and small shop. The only place in the neighborhood where you could buy food.
Besides dinner time has come and gone, and we didn't have in the morning poppy dewdrops in the mouth.

Located immediately next to the table.
For an afternoon snack took yogurty Finnish and Aland milk(painfully, I wanted to try local products)

Despite its small size, the residents of åland do celsim hozyaystvoi and dairy farming.
And fully provide themselves with potatoes, bread, and dairy products.
Aland Alands Centralandelslag company owns the trademark ACA among dairy products and Alandsbagarn among bread.
The company produces 100 different types of bread including the classic brown bread Aland hemvete, Sololin with flax seeds etc.
And Aland butter received 4 out of 5 points in one of the Swedish competitions the quality of the products.

And yet here is very tasty peanuts. That are sold in Russia do not go to any comparison with Finnish.
Musty taste and moist texture - inherent features of Russian peanuts.
Just a local song - fragrant , crunchy you can eat them by the kilos!

Having supported Andrew felt a surge of strength and pulled us all to watch the next the ruins of the fortifications.
Watch tower was located on the mountain at the entrance to the Strait of Bomarsund.

The tower will Notvikstornet (named after bays, those to the West).
Like all other fortifications destroyed.
But part of it is preserved in its original form. We could see and even climb.

Was a fine view of the Strait and the neighbouring island of Prasto.
On the opposite shore could be seen the ruins of the tower Prestatore(Prastotornet).
It was built as a defensive structure against enemy vessels approaching the fortress from the North.
During the siege of Bomarsund she did not suffer, as the British were advancing from the South and West, but was subsequently destroyed by them.
To the remains of the tower Prestatore was the most easy approach from the sea. So it basically took apart the Finns.
And used them in particular in the construction of the assumption Cathedral in Helsinki.

A little further behind the tower is the Orthodox cemetery, where they buried the dead during the fighting.
There's also a number of Jewish and Muslim cemeteries.

If you bypass the tower will Notvikstornet on the other hand it opens a view of the Bay of Notviken (Notviken)
Here, the Russian command planned to create a naval base for its ships. But the plans have not been implemented.
The Bay is very quiet and is now an ideal place for anchorage of yachts.

Here you can see an even higher hill than the one where we were.
This so-called Devil's mountain.
The dominant height at which it was planned to build the most powerful of the peripheral towers, but construction did not go beyond preparatory and blasting works. Currently, the mountain installed a navigation sign.
The name came from the fact that on the mountain supposedly had seen the Devil himself.


We looked all around.
Only Nelia glared into the distance at skerries standing on the edge of the cliff.
The Russian cannon and its bastions were of little interest.
She said she read everything on explaining the plates (which by the way was the text in Russian language) and did not see sense.als to trample on the ruins of the feet.

Night was falling and it should take care of the bed.
Descending from the mountains and left again on the road, we have aprivilege to the village of Finby.
There the road forked off to the North. And we with Andrey have reasonably believed that aside from the well-worn tourist trails, we will find ukromnoe Parking lot.

It should be noted that the laws of the åland Islands was forbidden to stand on the bed with a tent out camping.
Because all the land here is privately owned. And could theoretically be problems.
But we're from Russia, besides in the group I was with eternal hostility to the campsites.
The hope was that it would be possible to find the relative middle of nowhere, where too lazy to apply any local guardian of order.

As usual everything was done on a whim. The experimental method that has never failed.
Turning from the asphalt to the sea, past rural buildings, we soon drove into the woods.
A dirt road barely discernible.
It was obvious that she had intensely enjoyed.
Stopped at the next fork.
Andrew decided to go for exploration, not in vain to drive back our girls, some of them are particularly loved these formal looking.

While we were waiting I found a tick on my leg. Itched because.
The little bastard has not yet had time to sink and I quickly turned.
Where he got caught remains a mystery.
I probably drove it with Kumlinge.
He just sat in the folds of his pants and waited for the moment.
But maybe somewhere in the area of Bomarsund we met.
The girls again began to look around,and I joined the honorable ranks of fans of tablets from encephalitis.

Soon returned Andrew. He found a nice spot on the beach. There we went.
It was another rybolovnaja Zaimka, only without the house, located on a pointed promontory.
Also a walkway, a table (really rotten) and stationary smokehouse for fish.r /> The smoker was built by all the rules and consisted of the smoker Cabinet and the stove connected by a pipe.
Was used estestenno the slope of the shore and the stove is arranged just below the Cabinet.
In the oven ignite wood shavings - better than oak or alder (not pine) and under a current of hot air and smoke fish hanging in the closet for hours becomes Golden and fragrant.

But it was in a very derelict state.
Like last time the hosts there was not one year ago.

And a great clearing - here you can deliver, not two, but ten tents!
This is the best Parking for the entire trip - no camping no match.
Beautiful view of the sea and not the soul. Only somewhere on the other side, it sounded like someone laughing.
To deploy the tent - a matter of five minutes. Andrew fussed a little longer - his system did not anticipate the accelerated collection.

Then we went down to the water and covered with rotten boards with foam, deployed a field kitchen.
Andrew as always clearly and confidently took the reins of Echevarria in their hands.
Half an hour later the table was Laden with various food and drinks.


Difficult to describe the current picture even with all the richness of the Russian language.
Dinner on the beach at sunset in a friendly warm company and with relative comfort - what could be better!
The sun hovered over the horizon, its fading light in the yellow-red spectrum giving the sea and the rocks of the copper fantastic glow.

The Baltic sea's salt content is the most freshwater of all the seas that is explained by its relative isolation from the ocean and flowing up to 40 rivers with fresh water.
The area of the Gulf of Bothnia from åland archipelago is the most malealea (in the Strait of Kvarken you can even drink it)
Because of this and shallow depth of the Baltic sea freezes over a large space although not every winter.
In the harsh winters deep Straits between the åland Islands and both coasts of the continent covered with ice and it becomes possible for the ice to pass Finland to Sweden.

After the meal Mumla and Little my, as befits sisters went for a walk along the shore, and saw in the water that the serpent, or snake-like fish eels that are found in the Baltic sea and is able to move on land from pond to pond.
Girls this scene was enough to bring his own shivering from the evening chill and the mysterious secluded places to climax.

At dusk we sat on the Bank, silently looking at the quiet surface of the Bay and each indulging in his thoughts. Someone happy, and someone sad. And that's fine - after all this is also formed human life.

Our relations to this day re-tightened.
Nelia was freezing and tired, she wanted to take part in decision-making, but men did everything on his own and it infuriated her. She knew nothing about cards and had a minor degree of so-called "topographical cretinism" (despite the terrible name, this is nothing abusive), but used to command men and was now fallen into irritation and melancholy when she couldn't.
As to influence Andrew that it may, in lesser extent, you got me:)

Andrei and without that person looks sad became gloomy, looking at my companion.
Oil it to fire added Julia, the girl is undoubtedly inside a positive, but vneseni touchy and Moody.
And the most enjoying paternalistic attempts of his friend.

Your humble servant for the first time faced with such an abundance of women in the campaign also was not at height.
I do not always manage to cope with their own ego and overwhelming emotions, to ascend over the situation and make Solomon decisions.
Often hemul in me prevailed and made my being unbearable to others.
But not mistaken only one who does nothing.
There just wasn't enough time spent together to understand and accept each other such what they are, without trying to impose their own familiar pattern of existence.

"Tell me what is happiness - the quiet river,
the shaking legs or a peaceful evening?
Swim out of the mire, silt, cane
sea breeze fresh meet?
What is life a dream or a wave?
A large flow or a storm cloud?
Again a strange tenderness my soul is full,
but what do I do with her, I don't know.
The world has many faces, and it makes me ill.
Firmly squeeze the paw steering wheel,
when this happy moment comes?"

Hemul, Moomin Dalen