In search of the Moomin-Dole

Castle Kastelholm - travel through the ages

Chapter in which the spurs Hatifnats wooden horse and Strangeway aluminum, hemul relishes åland miles, and Mulla and Little my in circles around the island of Aland, think only of the bed, slipping with surprising regularity

Mileage: 75 kms | Weather +21 (sun)

The rain pounded on the tent of the tent. The morning began and to the light he could see the blurred streams of water flowing down the dome.
Go again in the damp, I thought sadly.
Not so much for yourself as for our lovely companions. After all, their mood was determined by the overall picture.
However, not all was bad. Sticking the nose in the canopy I saw that the sky is not overcast as it usually is grey.
Glide stopped after a while giving us the opportunity to not only collect, but also partially dried the tents.
When I started cooking Breakfast again poured from the sky.
Andrew looked ridiculous in his yellow hoodie over the burner of porridge.
He covered her with his body from the weather.
Bright ball of moss he seemed from a distance ,the gas is slowly bubbled at his feet and Bunting was making gurgling sounds of the awakening of the geyser.

The table was filled with water, as nabomita with last night's dishes. Well it does not matter. In the morning the mood is always better and Nelia volunteered to work on it.
Nothing adjusts on a positive way as a plate of oatmeal cooked in water without salt.
However with my opinion why none of the satellites agree was not. To food minimalism, as well as to wash, not easy to get used:)

Pulling on themselves and their bikes who membrane who oilcloth and a little obuxova on wet ground when lifting from the shore, four characters of fairy tales continued his journey in search of truth.

The next major landmark was the castle Kastelholm.
There we went a little round about but completely deserted by.
The road skirts the two lakes (or rather two sea Bay were once such)
Their names unsophisticated and oriented relative to the main facilities of each commune - KiRHI(picks).
It is a Lutheran Church in their language. So here is one called "the Lake lying to the East of the Church of the commune Sund" and the other "the Lake lying to the West of the Church of the commune of the Sund".
Kirksundet Ostra and Vastra Kirksundet respectively.
Once again convinced that Russian language is more verbose. I don't know if this is good or bad.

Aland Islands (as in other parts of Scandinavia), you can often encounter the interesting construction consists of a triple cross with a weather vane and flag on top. This so-called "Aland'midsummer's pole" - the Aland post in honor of the summer solstice
It is set to the most important holiday of all the Northern peoples - the summer day (we have it bears the name of Ivan Kupala)
The middle of summer on June 21 (Summer solstice) is a celebration of the final victory of the sun in the annual cycle and full manifestation of the vital forces of nature that originated during the winter solstice.
The middle of summer - the longest day of the year.
According to local lore, the night of the summer solstice there is a lot of wonderful things.
In Scandinavia, this day is still revered as the greatest holiday.
Unfortunately I have not found anywhere description of all constituent parts of this post. And knowledge of the Finnish language and less.

Another remarkable place in these places, the ruins of settlements of ancient people who lived in the iron age - Fornborg
They are located near the village of Brannbolstad nebolshom on a hill thickly covered with pines.
There is a sign with a description and even a rough map of the location of ancient stones.

Climb for half an hour on this hill, we nothing particularly noticeable there never found.
Probably had the Aland guide to poke our noses in some sort of the rock and tell the rock moved a thousand years ago cave men. But the guide was not the introduction to the history of slipped away.
But rest from pedaling, which is also important.

The inhabitants of the Islands are virtually invisible - they are fabulous dwarves are hiding in their lodges and burrows, do not climb on the eyes and does not nazyvajut its presence.
Beautiful, serene countryside, with neat fields and toy villages.
I thought that people here live life to the fullest. Is the fuss and nerves of large cities is a normal life?
In my opinion it is a substitute for the temptations, deception and psychosis. The larger the city the more life-negative .
Only here far from exhausts of motor vehicles, industrial smog and dirt of a thousand souls and bodies of men to feel REAL taste of life on the earth, simple and clear, it was one that was inherent in every man by the Lord God.

Someone would surely say that it's boring. But boredom is a relative concept.
Not the boring day-to-day knead the dust of sidewalks, weekly to hang out in night clubs, seeing the same drunken and smoky face, to wipe hemorrhoid back faux leather office chairs or shaking of the repayment of a mortgage loan?

However suum cuique - to each his own.

We soon pulled up to the main road åland - the post road.
To get to the castle we had to go back.
Kastelholm was located at the very end of a narrow, more like a river or lake, the sea Bay.
But before we get to the castle we stopped to look at the ethnic village, carefully reproducing the life and buildings of the middle ages.
In the castle lived the nobles, and servants and commoners lived outside the fortified walls.

But frankly - even if in those days a real local village looked half as nice as this Museum specimen, and then it was just a sample compared tomany of the current Russian.
Enough to ride on our country, to make sure that the middle ages never left Russia - it's prescribed!

Leaving the bikes at the fence, we indeed wandered through the village, looking in every corner.

And even tried to walk on stilts - this was apparently a common entertainment in those days.
And just so much adrenaline and positive emotions!
It turned out that it is not easy task.
Need arm strength and good balance. On high stilts generally does not work - all the time falling.

Much easier to ride a wooden horse with a mane of tow and spurring chestnut, whooping to ride away on the åland fields and meadows towards the pure sea air and spicy the smell of cut grass in the wind!

Still adults clean children)
Pedunculate and wriggle sometimes it is helpful for emotional balance.
Especially, it was possible Andrew and Julia.
They did it so elegant and aristocratic, but at the same time comical that it was impossible to resist a kind smile.

Plenty incident at a local barns and huts, we finally went to the castle.
The entrance costs 5 euros. But the girls went mad for trenirovkah students.
Note - the cashier insisted, asking if any of us students.
And may we be ashamed of this deception. But the economy, and the stock does not pull his pocket!

We were given tickets-Velcro with the image of Kastelholm, and glued white circles on the clothes, we went to depth of centuries.

Everywhere write that the exact date of Foundation of the castle Kastelholm why is unknown.
Perhaps then it was like being in the suburbs of Europe and nobody watched what and who's were built.


For the first time the castle is mentioned in the contract of the 14th century, according to which it was inherited Queen Margaret I of Bo Thossona Grip Swedish Chancellor of the XIV century (it was he who built the first castle in Mariefred in Sweden).

The splendor of the castle falls on the XV-XVI century.
And in 1599, during the civil war for the Swedish throne, the castle was largely destroyed by the troops of king Charles IX. Later the castle was again usraeli and used it as a prison.
Then it burned down and again rebuilt.
Only in the late 20th century it became more or less a decent view
Although the restoration and now here is


In the summer, then arrange the festival of the middle Ages, held in the natural scenery of the Kastelholm castle.
It hosts a vintage wedding or jousting.

The castle is a complex of houses connected by separate walls into a single unit, and the innermost of the three courtyards.
The exposition with elements of utensils and weapons of the time.

I am very interested in the hall, which made mystical rites, drove out the witches and tortured prisoners on the subject of serving the devil.
There are posters thoroughly describing the entire process and signs in which made certain conclusions.
Offer a list of questions to ask the defendant during the process.
Describes how witches behave in everyday life.
They deny God, worship Satan, and flying to his diabolical Borisenko riding a broom, specializiruetsya in the manufacture of love potions, kidnapping and cannibalism.

The persecution of the Inquisition, the witch was particularly prevalent in the 15th century after the treatise of the two Dominican friars of Cologne, entitled "Hammer of witches".
The monks went overboard with the description of witches in the treatise an ordinary woman looks so demonic, that all the neighboring courts considered it an honor to accept this treatise as the starting basis for allx subsequent process.
Fires, individual and collective, was burning across Europe, and not only in France and Germany.
Often a neighbor denounced neighbor, servant on master, and Vice versa.
In the villages prevailed, that is, collective psychosis, come up with new, sometimes absurd accusations of witchcraft.
In Scandinavia the witch hunt though were, but have not reached the scale as in Central and southern Europe.

Very interesting throne room. There apparently were feasting and promenades.
At its end was an alcove with a hole in the floor toilet. Hosts and guests after a hearty meal and libations were able to empty the bladder or bowel.
I wonder how was the sewer system of wooden troughs located at angles to each other - it was sewage down from the top floors to the basement of the castle.

Still it is not very correlated with the stories, like in the middle ages was the poor hygiene, people rarely bathed and poured the slops and sewage directly into the streets or behind the walls of castles.


Somewhere read, like detergents, and the concept of personal hygiene in Europe, until the mid-NINETEENTH century did not exist.
"Water baths warm the body, but weaken the organism and widen pores. Therefore, they can cause illness and even death," says medical treatise of the FIFTEENTH century. In the Middle ages it was believed that refined pores can penetrate infected air.
All hygienic measures were reduced to the easy rinsing of hands and mouth, but not the entire face.
"Wash your face in any case can not be - the doctors wrote in the SIXTEENTH century - as can happen in Qatar or impaired vision".
And the ladies washed only 2 - 3 times a year( Nelia ay!!!:))
And Russian throughout Europe considered perverts because they went to the bath RAs per month - often ugly (a Russian word for "stink" comes from the French "Merle" - "go. but").

But I think that it's not too plausible. And the truth is somewhere in the middle as always.

In the same hall there were two huge cube with remnants of bones of animals and maybe humans, dated to different centuries.
Archaeologists layers removed cultural layers and carefully sorted finds.
In the corner was a children's armor. It is hard to imagine that even ten boys ryadili this also the hardest bunch weight of 25 kg.
But the children were healthy and a little sick I guess.

But the funny thing is - it was possible to try on on itself all kinds of hats and capes. And feel younger years there.
What we do not priminuli do of course.

Andrew was in the image of the noble knight Ivanhoe, Julia and nel - the lady Rowena in turn, I guess insidious Reginald front de Bethom (except Ivanhoe did not occur)
Then I looked at the photo and was horrified - what I am is terrible:)

With the fortress walls overlook the surrounding meadows and the Bay.
We worked honestly for the money paid. Any area of Kastelholm has not remained without attention.

Summary - the castle is simple - he is far from the castles of the Loire and the Rhine, and even other Finnish and Swedish castles will give a hundred points ahead.
But in the vastness of the åland Islands ,where the monuments are mostly confined to churches, it is certainly an outstanding landmark.
And the ålanders have tried to do anything out candy. Yeah, so not sorry for the money spent.
In General, cool them all knights at the same time (was the entourage at least)

The bike stood untouched near the fence. Still hard to get rid of fear for them and their belongings. So it seems that maybe someone to covet our good.
A few minutes later we drove to the second largest city åland - Godby(Godby)
But there was a large supermarket or commercialrket, and we were out of food.

Before the town there is a remarkable place - for the Farjsunds bridge across the Gulf of Bothnia sea.
There is built only on the Islands a tunnel through the rock, and over it a café Uffe pa berget and observation tower.

Unfortunately the tower entrance is through the café - you need something there to order and only then we can go upstairs.
In good weather, with its observation deck you can see the site at least five parishes and several churches.

Cafe built there supposedly, after the words of the priest and writer Waldemar Niemann, who, having been there in 1965, said that in such a historic place you must build one.

If it rains outside, then you can enjoy a Cup of speciality coffee or hot chocolate, enjoy a salad , hot toast and of course åland pudding with whipped cream Alandspannkaka's a secret recipe of twenty years ago.
And all this sitting around the hot fire.
But if the weather is hot, you will certainly miss a mug or living in the åland beer Stallhagen.

In Finland there are several varieties of beer and the famous Lapin Kulta
This name in Finnish means "the gold of Lapland", and tells where the beer is made.
Lapin Kulta is still located in its original place in Tornio in Lapland.
The name has a special meaning , where gold is considered a fresh water mountain springs.
Golden color beer of Lapland perfectly fits the beautiful name of "Lapin Kulta".
The gold just means gold in the original sense, because for many years Bank sources Lapland was the place where they built their camp prospectors.
Recently, the plant in Tornio was closed, employees fired and production moved to Lahti. The crisis however.

But beer is like some other varieties to taste not - like donkey urine:)
For everybody in General.
As Stallhagen normal 5%e beer.
Cook it plant Alands Bryggeri (Lands of Bryggeri), located in Godby (Godby).

The city of Godby for many centuries was an important centre of åland.
Now this area is home to about 800 people.
He is the centre of Finstrom (Finstrom)

Looking at the panorama from the hill, we hurried to town for fear that will not have time before the closing of the supermarket.
And still not have time! Came to shapochnomu discrimination.
We had to buy food at exorbitant prices at the gas station Shell.
Gas stations always use channels early closing of shops.
Afternoon tea capitalized on the walls of the gasoline source.

The program for the day was done and it was worth again to think about overnight.
But he still was far away.
Had to cut a few tens of kilometers along the Northern part of the island of Aland, tychas like blind kittens in one shore to another.
Suitable places could be seen.
In addition, Andrew broke the chain and had to spend some time on its replacement.
The bike did not survive hysterical desperate throwing in another attempt to go against the law of the Islands and get free to wait.

Girls are sluggishly went after and wanted to eat and sleep.
Good luck escaping this night over and over again finally smiled.
In the town of Bambole, where the map also listed the beach, we found a magnificent refuge.

There really is a great beach for a family holiday and most importantly - a Playground with manicured grass.
We would have taken it as a place to Park the car for sure. And it was actually beach place sunbathing, because the Gulf coast was rocky with huge flat boulders.
Away in water leaving a walkway with a tower for jumps and places for fishing.

On the banks of a toilet and tables - all as usual.
The place was certainly not isolated as before and had some concerns - not stukanut us locals, especially when we were wished a pleasant appetite people passing.
We have placed your food shop in one of the two tables right on the beach.
Packages, packaging, jars, squarcia mess on the burner, backpacks around - still life probably from the curious.
A bottle of vodka to warm and chill to hid just in case.

But look for something better, it was not possible, and time.
Before bed I decided to give it a try found at the beginning of the hook and line.
as the rod perfectly useful short arc from the tent.
After standing unsuccessfully on the catwalk., went to sleep.

Otbelki came over the horizon the sun illuminates the water, giving it a fabulous fosforitsirujushchie look.
But soon went out, and they.
Night vstupila their legal rights.

"His eyes melted, and the world created
you are in essence connected.
Opened you arms towards perfection,
the invisible breath of God knowing.
And now your soul is among the worlds and stars,
as the sun clear floats.
And beneath the sky leaving you shouted yourself
instantly in the developing word."

Julius of Wexell , Finnish poet