Peregrinos on bicicletas

Asturian cider


In the morning on the beach by eight o'clock arrived, the Spaniards surfers and woke us up with his talk. The appearance of a slender young Spaniards has revived the female part of the team. The girls immediately went to hang up to dry sleeping bags closer to the surfers. But then - Como estas? - Muy bien (How are you? - very good) dialogue failed.


Then wishing climbed to swim in the sea, although the water was very cold.
Swam three - Olya, Anton and Igor. May the ocean burned the body.


Dawn on the beach was wonderful. After yesterday's late Parking didn't want to break up and somewhere to go again.
The place was fantastically beautiful, no wonder the surroundings of Jijona is famous for its sandy beaches.

Biscayne Bay (for those who are in school nibble sunflower seeds and counted the crows in the geography lessons) — part of the Atlantic ocean, located to the North of the Iberian Peninsula, washes the shores of Spain and France and stretches from Galicia (a Spanish province) to Brittany (France).

The name comes from the Basque province of Bizkaia. In Spain the Bay of Biscay, called the Cantabrian sea (Mar Cantábrico). Only the Eastern part of the Cantabrian sea, directly adjacent to the Basque Country, called the Bay of Biscay. Thus, it was though the ocean, but not quite true.

This is the place for all of us else knows the fact that in 1970 in these waters sank the Soviet nuclear submarine K-8.
It was the first loss of Soviet nuclear fleet. During a training exercise on Board the boat on fire, which quickly spread through the ducts. Part of the crew died on the spot, the other deliberately went to death by sacrificing himself to drown out a nuclear reactor and to avoid explosion and contamination.

After emergency surfacing, most of the crew were saved, with the participation of the Bulgarian m / V "Avior"
In the 8-point storm on Board the boat continued to struggle for survivability of a combat shift of 21 people . The ship lost stability and in a short time sank. Killed 52 crew member

Currently submarines with four nuclear torpedoes on Board rests at a depth of 4680 m


Then we had to make a difficult decision about how to move on a route further. Leaders were eager to separate from us. I didn't like it, because the alternative proposed is quite simple. Tanya and Olya was eager to return to the path of the pilgrims to complete the Hajj and to travel to Santiago by Bicycle and then to the certificates of the pilgrims.

In the end, was divided as follows: Tanya and Olga traveled on the trail of the pilgrims, and we are all in Oviedo in order for the next day to pick up Ilyukha backpack, and he could lightly drive some crazy number of miles, or 150 or 180. The figure is so big that does not fit in my head.

A large company is often fraught with separation of concerns, and to find consensus at times difficult. We also had friction and disputes that are eventually resolved to the satisfaction of all parties. The girls got a trail of the Pilgrim, the boys of the mountains and passes, and those who wanted - and even long distances. We split up for a while, then reunited again and the joy of every meeting was genuine. All our apart - meetings were predestined according to the plan)

The road to Oviedo was not so simple, with a steep, but short, ascents and descents. Very beautiful.
Passed through eucalyptus forest from which came the heady smell of childhoodand familiar tools for gargling.
I could not resist and got a few leaves in reserve. For medicinal purposes of course - you never know who will catch a cold)

Also on the way in Oviedo across buildings here such construction: barns of Oreo - built on stilts and protected from rodents, the horizontal stone slabs between each pile and the floor.
These barns a kind of calling card of these places.
And above in Asturias, according to Soviet scientist Nikolai Vavilov, who visited it in 1927, this type of construction was predominant and was used not only as storehouses but also as a living space.
Personally, they reminded me of a Chinese pagoda)

And here we are officially entered in Oviedo.
Oviedo is the administrative center of Asturias and the second largest city after gijón
The province uses its own language, Asturian, but the official status it has (laws stipulate that the authorities must support its preservation and study).
The movement for a separate status Asturiana dialects of Spanish started the famous Spanish philologist and historian Ramon Menendez Pidal in 1906.
Who has not read his book "Led Campeador" - by all means do it!
It is dedicated to the national hero of Spain — Rodrigo Diaz de Bavaro nicknamed Led Campeador .
Led Campeador was a Spanish knight who had actively participated in the Reconquista — the wars between the Spanish Christians and Muslims for the right to live in the Iberian Peninsula. It was in the 11th century for reference.

The climate of Asturias, as well as the rest of North-Western part of the country are more diverse than in the southern parts of Spain.
In General, the climate is oceanic, with heavy rainfall throughout the year. As a result of what's grownayut many Apple orchards. And Apple cider - alcoholic drink, usually sampanthawong obtained by fermentation of Apple juice without dobavleniya.
Conventional apples, to eat, and are not suitable for the production of cider due to low content of tannin, preferred special varieties bred specifically for this purpose.
The strength of the drink, as a rule, from 2 to about 7. %.

In Asturias and the Spanish Basque Country ciders by consumption volume ranks first among the weak spirits, far ahead of wine and beer.

Asturias, the main cider region in Spain: here produces more than 80% of cider across the country.

First and foremost, by a "strange" coincidence, we were on the Boulevard of Cider. However this is not surprising) Instead of beer in Oviedo pour around the cider.
The Boulevard, all places is sidreria. In one of sidreria stopped for lunch.



The heart of the Spanish citadele is, first of all, Asturias and the Basque Country.
The first is known for its sidra – cider fortress 4-8%, and ciders of the Basque Country has another name –sagardoa, and looks also quite different.
The main difference between this 4-6-degree drink is that it contains no gas and is bottled directly from the barrels in specialized institutions – Sagardotegi.
There are 79 manufacturers that manufacture two kinds of cider: sampanthawong for export and subsistence for local consumption.
Organic cider is made from about 200 different varieties of apples, which makes the products of each manufacturer different from each other.

It looks like travelers are gradually turning into sidreria. (it's kind of ordinary people - only inside instead of brains tannin and vitamin)))  What kind of vitamin sure you ask! Like what! Vitamin C of course - the apples)

And this is a special fixture for proper pouring cider in a glass of cider should be poured about a quarter and the height of the arm that he was sated with oxygen.
In our sidreria process was automated, while in other places it was done by the waiters hand. In the left hand takes the glass bottle in his right , raised high above the head and the cider pours a jet exactly into the glass. Masterstvo Spaniards learned his craft in this matter is not questioned, but still in this form the spray and so as not to dirty the floors cidrerie the waiters ran out to the street to pour cider customers.

Maybe do naysays air cider takes some special properties), But most likely I think is just such a proprietary feature to attract tourists and give the process status of a ritual that simultaneously raises a banal drinking to drink almost a religious rite. Of course, I exaggerate a little)

Asturias boasts the only one in Spain controlled denomination of origin cider — D. O. P. Sidra de Asturias.
The production of Asturian cider category D. O. P. is strictly regulated: the law stipulates the boundaries of the territory of production, varieties of apples used ( they are divided into several groups: bitter, sweet, sour-Gorskii, bitter-sweet, srednekislye, bitter-srednekislye, etc.), prohibited pasteurisation, the addition of water, flavors, colors (excluding caramel)

Another important rule is the tradition of pouring the cider, since you're supposed to negotiate a glass and the remains of the cider to splash out on the floor or in a special receiver.
In sidrerias of Asturias, the bar surrounds the bottom of the special tray made of stainless steel, where you're supposed to pour the remains of the Cider.
This is a polite indication of the lack of greed and gotovnosti to share.
In addition, in the Asturian mythology it is said that pouring the remains of the Cider from the Cup, we return it to the earth that gives it to us - this kind of tax is the land that gave it to us and a tribute to the centuries-old folk traditions.

We're far from this kind of blagorodstva was drinking all the bottom)
Cider in a glass must be a little — it is fed little, but often.
Fill the glass a quarter, not more. Just enough to make 2-3 SIPS , smell , sour taste and slowly enjoy .

Cidrerie the owner personally took our order. Lunch was a success. The portions were large. The cider flowed freely.
By the end of the meal, flushed Natalia wanted songs. But on this issue, the innkeeper replied that he had no guitar and do in Asturias to sing not - the people here love peace. But if we really want something we straight road in Andalusia to the South. But andalucía is far away, and to sing it like now, until the cider has evaporated)

It is not for nothing in Asturias like to say that if the Apple people have lost their Paradise, thanks to Sidra, he found it again.

In Oviedo a lot of metal sculptures, here is one of them, called "Three iron horse":



Any time you're in the city Europejskie amazed by the variety of statues and sculptures for every taste - from tradicionnyh to avant-garde and even sexy. Some sort of positive emancipation of thought and morals in the present.

Here for example is a monument to the American Director woody Allen. He nekotoroe was shot on ulocks Oviedo his famous film "Vicky. Christine. Barcelona" with Penelope Cruz and Javier Bardem in the lead roles.
Woody Allen "zabronzovel" in the main city of Asturias because in 2002 he received the príncipe de Asturias prize for his contribution to the development of art. Ethat prestigious award in Oviedo is awarded annually for the past thirty years.

A great many of the statues appeared to Oviedo not long ago, when in Oviedo there was a program for large-scale renovation of the city.

"Oviedo is a gorgeous city. He don't belong to this world, as if it never existed. Oviedo is a city-a fairy tale!" We could only join the words of the Director, personally observing all this ancient beauty.

And even occasionally walking the rain could stop this

Stayed in a decent cheap guest house, situated on one of the floors 5тиэтажного starinnogo of the building. And Anton found what the company called its proizvoda and could not miss this picture.

On this day there was a feeling of nedochitannoy, as it traveled only 40 miles.