The threshold Nedoma

Ataman ' and Tmutarakan

Distance: 5 MILES | Weather: Sunny (soundtrack)


We woke up pretty early. Sunday morning was Sunny he opened his eyes slowly began to cook porridge. Andrew really had some difficult habit to share a meal. He could not eat anything until you drink the first Cup of tea. Moreover, between the tea party and the food then must pass some finite time. Do nothing was impossible - habit than is given to us to replace you-know-what she.

But that day I kind of persuaded him to eat the horse's food and oatmeal gradually there scorcola in the pot, when it seemed THEY.

A string of trucks mercilessly fuming was approaching our tent. And we put her on the edge of the construction of the mound.

Those who ever went to Cycling knows instantly assemble the tent and thrown out of velorjukzakov things impossible.



The first truck turned back to come up to us and dumped a bunch of alumina in the vicinity of the tent, the second truck moved just for us. Silently ceasing to origenate from happening we rushed to drag things to the curb, and Andrew screaming for her life ran to the driver of the truck. I honestly did not understand - they have really not seen or acted out of spite. As a Hiking specialist in public relations Kuzmin stopped this Orgy for a while. But we had the rhythm of the Argentine tango to pack up your things and collect the tent. But the oats I managed to grab a couple of spoons not disappear as good)

If every morning we have someone customized this way we would have driven twice.

Our path lay in Ataman. Ethnographic complex built near Taman in 2009.



The complex was opened only at ten in the morning and we Ranim tipper bird had to sit for an hour on the bench.

Previously, the entrance was free and now 150 rubles. But they do not mind.



The exhibits collected in the villages of the region and shows the life and lifestyle of the Cossack families in the XVIII—XX century.

Exhibits natural. For a quick sightseeing requires at least 2-3 hours. Each hut complex is sponsored by and assigned to the individual municipal unit territory

The complex consists of several streets of the Cossack village, where every yard represents a different position, specialty or craft of the Potter, the cobbler, the Barber, hat simple Kazakov, chieftain, headman, etc. In a separate settlement allocated a fabulous hut on chicken legs with all the attributes.

Above the complex rises a chapel. All this is done with great humour and some labels and signs impossible to read without a smile.

The coaching Inn called "Ulysse", the hut of the cobbler says, "Then Givet Proshka of BizSpark", the chieftain – "Then Givet Yefim-the Decree of er and Mr", the weaver they have Petro Golestani, the clerk – Ostap Coryza Lap, the fireman Anton Nutrapoison, etc

Farmstead of the fisherman, where "Givet Leszek Salarybase", and next to the house Sergeant - "Then Givet Andrei Dibujo"


To talk about the fact that there is pretty pointless) is Better one time to see what they say.

We tried almost everything and ate soup and drank champagne (and Andrew and vodka), visited each hut, poprisutstvuet for submissions. Fun there) a lot of People there - all smiles. Very atmospheric place. I did not expect that we could arrange. A similar complex I've seen in Stockholm on the Peninsula of djurgården is Skansen, it is called - is also about how the Swedes lived in antiquity.

Each farmstead is individual and thematic, such as "in the house of the blacksmith" with Your eyes the wizard will make for You a treasured coin. In another farmstead will teach You to bake pancakes and cakes in a real Russian oven, and then you can try Cuban food.

Especially liked the statues Krameria bird - probably some kind of Kuban hero of legends)



And of course I couldn't resist not to capture his wrinkled face next to the young) Kuzmin mocked this desire of course, but we all know he was just jealous)

In Tamani could walk the whole day) But we were in and out before lunch and still have time to drop by to see the excavations of the ancient town Tmutarakan. This is one of the oldest cities in the Taman Peninsula, was located on the territory of present-day Taman.



During the stay there of the Greeks the city was called germonassa. Then another hundred times, the name changed depending on who was zavoevyval.

After the defeat of the Khazar khanate in 965, the Kievan Prince Sviatoslav Igorevich, the city came under the rule of Kievan Rus. Tmutarakan — the capital of the ancient Russian Tmutarakan Principality (2nd half of X — XI). At this time, known as a major trading town with a good harbour. Tmutarakan was maintained through economic and political ties between the Russian principalities, the peoples of the North Caucasus and Byzantium. The city continued to live zikhs, Greeks, Alans, Khazars, Slavs and Armenians.

Now the word Tmutarakan is associated with something unattainable distant and unknown, akin to the seven seas in the middle of nowhere, usually with a touch of disdain — as a synonym of the word "wilderness".

Excavations of the city held on the edge of the steep high banks for a few pennies you can go there and pobrto Aditi, looking at naked spades of the archaeologists of the cultural layers from sticking out of the ground shards of old clay pot.

Taman mound (an area of about 35 hectares) partially excavated because most of it is under residential development or destroyed by waters of the Taman Bay. The thickness of cultural layer is about 12-14 meters.



This day was very eventful. After the excavation, we managed to go to the Lermontov house, tasting room Phanagoria and at the end stuck in the company store of the winery "Chateau Taman"

More precisely Chateau Taman - brand Association "Kuban-Vino" - the second largest economy along with the Most

The collection "Chateau Taman" (Chateau Tagmane) includes a quiet varietals, champagnes and sparkling wines aged quiet and sparkling wines, cognac. Tagmane Chateau – wine of European quality and they are manufactured at the company "Kuban-wine" from grapes grown on the plantations of the Taman Peninsula in Krasnodar region and harvested by hand, under the control of French winemakers, headed by the chief specialist of the Institute of Oenology champagne and project Manager Jerome Bar (Jerome Barret).

I must say the variety of brands and varieties in the store, struck me. We do not bring a tenth of what they produced. Only the cheapest varieties.

Surprisingly - but in the markets the dominance of French, Spanish and prochin wines, vosemdesyat percent which as we remember - falshak. That means someone is profitable.

Remember people! Buying wine in Ufa (well not only) stores you likely at best gain nothing, and at worst outright Kool-aid. Wine should be drunk at the point of production - at least in the case of Russia, with its total fraud in all areas of life.


For reference: "Kuban-Vino" - is one of the largest factories of Russia for bottling still and sparkling grape wines, cognac. The company was established in 1956 in stanitsa Starotitarovskaya Temryuk district. In 2003 year, the company "Kuban-Vino" was included in the holding "Ariant" and received a unique new opportunity for development. Upscale wine prepared using Italian equipment, thanks to which the Russian market annually receives from 15 to 20 million bottles of Taman wines, champagne and cognac under the brand names "Chateau Taman"(Chateau Tamagne), "Kuban-Vino" and "Wine Tammany." Has its own raw material base - together with the agricultural "South" is part of a wine holding "Ariant", which owns approximately 7,000 hectares of vineyards on the Taman Peninsula.