The threshold Nedoma

Ferry crossing - left Bank , right Bank

Distance: 65 MILES | Weather: Sunny


Continuing the description of the Taman infinitely long day. After an hour of rest near the winery we sent their thoughts and bicycles to the most extreme point of the Russian state in these parts. The plan was to catch the evening ferry to the Crimea. The distance was small, of the order of 60 kilometers, the weather was good, and nothing prevented us to carry out his plan.

We were very fast only a couple of times stopped at a fruit vegetable collapse near the tracks. I must say that the fruit is extremely cheap in Taman. If bearded Caucasians watermelons sell for 3 rubles per kg , and melons from 7 rubles - you probably take them another two times cheaper .

But we and three of the ruble seemed to be almost nothing. Besides, Kuzmin and then snatched free. Behind the counter under the canopy of trees on the table stood an opened watermelon and the owner kindly offered to try it.

I'm no longer young and insecure - and a very negative attitude to notched unknown and unknown than the melon. It is known that the frequent cases of poisoning occur when buying this kind of water-melons and melons. Pathogenic microorganisms enter the pulp with the skins or knife and feel in the moisture and dampness. In addition, the watermelon sellers never wash before cutting off. And do not violate the main principle of touring: to WASH.

But Andrew, this fact was of course on the drum. He hoped for the best, and the bactericidal effect of the Kuban wine. So we were off to the side, he gulped the master's watermelon, but I have bought a small melon.

The funny thing is that as a result Andrew went quietly to the Crimea, and I had to search for roadside bushes, which by the way those in the steppe lands is also a problem. What trust after this the science))) But all went well fortunately.

Sorry we at the Taman was only a day here is worth visiting not only for the beach , but enough to get his fix of the gifts of the naturaldy.



But time was running out and soon the wheels of our bikes we stopped at the spit Pig. Already at the very beginning was the first Outpost of the border guards and gloomy soldier took us a long suspicious look.

Chushka spit is a peninsular spit, located in the North of the Kerch Strait. Starts at the Cape of Akhilleon and stretches South-West towards the Black sea. The length of the streamer is almost 18 km of the Western shore of the spit straight from cosy Plaisance, from the East and depart to the South numerous long spines. Parallel to the road paved iron. There are a lot of rare birds and plants.



And of course the activities of the port of Caucasus to cause considerable damage to the ecosystem. In 2007 here at all during the storm there was an oil spill from the tanker.

To the port we arrived about seven o'clock in the evening and immediately bought a ticket for the next flight. That being said, I hang out for a couple of hours waiting for the ferry.

I must say our entire campaign was marked by the name Valera that we were literally persecuted in one form or another along the way.

Here we met the first of them. Valera from the city of Sarov was 68 years old. Withered man (his grandfather will not name) was riding a hybrid from your city to Yalta to son. He said he was doing 200-250 miles a day. We compared with him seemed to slow old dudes. Moreover he had neither torch nor even Cutlery, but only the purse) Here's how to travel! - don't miss the opportunity to encourage me my friend. He all the way did not give rest the fact that he carried in a backpack a lot of cereals, which, thanks to him, we ate not very active.

So Valera joined us for a while.



Finally filed a ferry. Of course traveling around Scandinavia and the Baltic watching the ferries are not much impressed by Kerch)

On Board the customs officers handed out the immigration card for the lucky holders of internal passports of Russia. Well, I had a passport, such a fuss has been for nothing.

In summer, ferries run often, but even this does not prevent long waiting. That what I lose here sometimes all day.

It would seem that it is a problem! And there needs to be a bridge. But not so simple with him) Then intertwined poeticheskie , economic and even natural problems.

In fact, the bridge across the Kerch Strait existed! And even functioned for about three months. And it was in 1944.



But about all under the order.

In the early 20th century the bridge was going to build and the Emperor Nicholas II , Crimea was a favorite vacation spot of the king and other noblemen. But plans prevented the First World war.

During the great Patriotic war the Crimea was occupied by the Nazis. Then still there were no signs of their razgroma and the Germans as usual were going there to get a long time. Needed quality crossing for troops and cargo. There are different testimonies on this score. One bridge has been planned and Stalin before the war, there began to bring their building materials.

On the other - it is purely Iniciativa the Nazis. In 1943, he ordered his Minister of armaments albert Speer to begin construction for the movement of road and rail transport. Hitler did not doubt the success and wanted to transfer to Kuban troops and equipment for a trip to India. The Germans were brought to Kerch metal construction, cement and other building materials. The Soviet air force had noticed unusual activity on the Kerch Peninsula, but the bomb warehouses banned -- Stalin was planning to seize the Crimea and to finish onbar German construction.

Anyway the Germans to build a bridge did not, but he built the cable car, which pereplavleni loads - video on surviving this road is clearly visible. In the summer and fall of 1943 with it every day threw at 500-800 tonnes of cargo.

This looks generally more interesting . Before the retreat of German troops almost completely destroyed this building. But as soon as the commercial was released, and in the Eastern part of the Crimea landing, Soviet engineers re-engaged in the connection of the two shores of the Kerch Strait.

To restore the road equipment was used with one of the force at the time of the industrial ropeways in Georgia. Although in reality the cable car across the Strait had not so much to restore as to build anew. According to the testimony "construction that was not easy: the sea there were storms, building rafts rocked so that the soldiers were attached to him with rope to avoid being washed away. Once the raft with people swept into the sea of Azov. They were looking for a few days, rescued half-dead. To protect people from enemy fire, along the construction of cruising boats and the windward side put smoke screens. The smoke corroded eyes, interfere with work, but other exit was not."


In February 1944 the cable car crossing over the Kerch Strait began again to act. The length was 5100 meters, worked on it 150 cargo trolleys. However, the daily output of the Soviet road was only 300 tons, but still a few weeks cable car was the only means of freight delivery to the Crimean coast.

After the liberation of Crimea Kerch cable car is not used. Again, I remembered it in the fall of 1944, when Soviet troops ovladspruce North-Eastern slopes of the Carpathians. The cable car was ordered to dismantle and install on one of the remote mountain passes. But while the cableway was dismantled and taken to the Carpathians, the need for it has disappeared: the advancing troops by that time, gone far ahead.


In 1944 Soviet troops with a crash kicked the Nazis out of the Crimea, on the shores of the Kerch Strait began. Bridge with a length of 4.5 kilometers was built for 6.5 months. The bridge was built, in particular, the prisoners, many of them in the autumn of the 44th was freezing on the bridge, the corpses were dumped into the water. The most important building material of the bridge, including part of the supports, was a tree. It was brought here by the Germans by massive deforestation in the Crimean forests. The full length of the bridge formed of the same type 115 27 metre spans, swivel on the middle support 110-meter span double hole over the Wake of larger vessels, as well as overpasses and stone dams along the shores. The construction works were an unprecedented scale. It took a fleet of small ships to bring people to the place of installation of the supports.

The first pile was driven on April 24, 1944 and 3 November 1944 on the bridge has passed the first train from the Crimea to the Caucasus station.

In November 1944 the bridge was taken into temporary operation. In February 1945 the bridge was the train of the Soviet delegation, which was returning from the Yalta conference.

Taking the object, the Commission noted that "... the team overcame all difficulties and completed the work of the first phase for 150 days, achieving a rate of more than 30 m bridge in a day". The work of the second phase, involving in particular the replacement of temporary wooden poles with permanent metal and the construction of 116 icebreaker, had to be completed by January 1, 1945.

But here nature has intervened. The winter was fierce and the Azov namerslv a lot of ice due to global warming moved from Azov through the Kerch Strait. Naturally met on the way Oprah built bridge.

They say thousands of lives away the sea. The chief engineer of construction Ivan Tsyurupa asked rates four icebreakers, bombers, but it was all in vain — the ice crumbled even bombs, he destroyed the bridge. Under the pressure of the ice 50 of 115 the pillars of the bridge collapsed, dragging the stairs. Surprisingly , Stalin did not shot after that, supposedly saying that he is guilty. Preserved 73 support, trestle and earthen dam. To restore the bridge did not. The remains of the supports interfere with the ship's movement for many years. In 1968 elimination proceeded in the area of the Kerch-yenikalsky shipping canal preserved remains of towers

After the war the bridge was examined by a special Commission, which adopted a decision on the design of capital high bridge cost about two billion rubles. In presenting Stalin, the project, Deputy people's Commissar of Railways of the I. Gotsiridze said: "Comrade Stalin, it will be the king of the bridge". Stalin, thought, said: "Comrade Gotsiridze, we overthrew the Tsar in 1917". And instead the bridge was built the ferry".

Which works to this day.

And new projects of the bridge appear with surprising regularity the last twenty years. The last ruling on the construction was signed by Yanukovych and Medvedev. The bridge should be ready for the Olympics in Sochi 2014.

But who would believe it) we Have in Ufa building of underground transition for two years) And then the bridge! With a length of at least 5 km (For comparison, the longest bridge existing in the CIS - in Khabarovsk, across the Amur river - 2.4 km)



Construction an industrial bridge even if the start will be associated with many difficulties. This structure of the bottom of the Strait - there's a huge layer of silt, which moves to thatIs and seismicity of the area. These were the requirements for the height of the supports - that under the bridge could freely pass drilling stations in the basics. There are many problems - the bridge will be very expensive and will pay off or not is still a question. Besides, the affected nature of the immediate to the bridge seats.

We sailed in the dark. Located on the open deck of the ferry was very cool. Maybe it was there and blew my friend Andrew.

The ferry is 20-30 minutes - even revel in no time and voila is already the Port of Crimea.

In the old Soviet tradition of custom designed so that as much as possible to humiliate people, and they are enthusiastically playing by these rules. When the ferry is included in the gaven and its ramp lowered to the dock - it starts fun Race on a short distance. People start out, and are rushing headlong to the customs window. When citizens a lot of it looks depressing.



But we were lucky - we were in a privileged position ) With the bikes to compete in the speed of pedestrians is problematic. Because utopia pedal to capacity, we arrived almost first) beat Us to the boy with a large backpack - moose yet he has Oksala) and then because he knew where to run. And we kept him.

Customs passed quickly - change the money into hryvnia and went to look for a place to sleep. I honestly don't understand how Andrew is focused in the pitch dark. However, after wandering a bit, we went to a great small beach near the port. Valerie was with us.

The beauty of the place managed to assess only in the morning.