The threshold Nedoma

From rags to riches

Distance: 65 MILES | Weather: Sunny


The way this day is perhaps the most beautiful in our entire trip. It began near the town boat garages , and ended near the village of Golden. This morning I finally preobrel my laziness and changed the rear tyre to wider. Of all the parts - though it is not in vain were taken. On the eve of the last straw was riding on cracked from lack of moisture steppe virgin lands. My narrow wheels just fell into the cracks.



Said goodbye to the hospitable uncle Vanya. Kuzmin did hold a grudge at the same time. But this is it for crafty bitches saved just in case) Bitch sensed danger and nose did not show, only the growl from under the porch in pursuit.

Boat the town was situated in the Bay of Bulganak, at the lowest point of course, and we had for the umpteenth time to climb the mountain. But the view from there was opened krysensky. These places not yet polluted by the abundance of tourists and have retained their pristine appeal.


Our way lay in the direction of the village Resort, where it was possible to replenish their stocks of provisions. But on the way we met two objects are the problem of hunger atsla the tenth plan.

The apiary was located on top of a hill. Old deaf (and as it turned out later shifty) grandfather after the third loud cry Animation?! crawled into the light of God. And after some clarification of the range sold at a reasonable price a half-liter jar floral Crimean honey, collected this year supposedly.

Generally speaking being in the Crimea is not worth buying honey, no shops nor even along the highways, where it is sold in large numbers together with red Crimean onion. Everything is fake, or honey imported from other places of Ukraine counting on the stupid tourists.

But here it was like a real bee farm away from well-worn trails. In General, we bought a jar.


When the Resort was a breeze - on the road appeared a column with the index "Ostrich farm"

If I was Andrew, then calmly drove by - I have not seen ostriches. But the motto of my friend was like, "Every day we should try something never tried before"

In General, we turned to the farm. And have not regretted. There is in addition to the farm was an animal farm with any animals. While the owners cooked us scrambled eggs and steak could join the animals in cages.

Externally and in the structure of ostrich meat resembles veal tenderloin, it is deep red, almost like beef, but the taste is not comparable to any of the traditional types of meat.

Ostrich meat is considered a dietary product (fillet contains 1.2% fat), has a very low cholesterol content (about 32 mg per 100 g) and high protein(about 22%).

A large part of the edible meat is taken from the hip region.
Most other types of meat low in fat leads to its hardness and dryness. In this respect, the ostrich is an exception as fillet and steak of ostrich with proper preparation extremely delicious taste. Ostrich meat absorbs the different spices, which allows you to use it for cooking Mexican, Chinese and Italian cuisine.
Ostrich meat is recommended for people with high blood pressure, congestive heart failure, diabetes, anemia in the postoperative period.


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  Strautina Pork Beef
Fat [%]  1,2 15
Protein [%]  22 28 22
Cholesterol mg/100g  utline: 0px; vertical-align: top;">38 105 63
kj per 100g 440 1340 660
ertical-align: top;">Kcal per 100g  105 320 160


Farm owners, seeing that we are eating just bought the Medoc enlightened - grandfather was supposedly a liar and sold us the old honey.

Brought on trial. And really the difference was palpable. Well, back to my grandfather we did not - we and old well and then went.



Well, it's the local donkeys. We didn't eat yet. Well, I think if you go with Kuzmin else you may have.


Just behind ostrich farm in the distance could see the white box - salt lake Chokrak. Very interesting place from the point of view of natural resources, as well as another monument to scientific and cultural degradation of the Crimea poshtay the last 20 years.


Right over the hill on the coast lies the Resort village.

The village was founded in the late XVIII century, old believers called Russian Mom next to the Crimean Tatar village Mom Tatar (today not preserved). The name probably comes from the Turkic "mother" or "mother" — the settlement in Turkic.

The old-timers say that once lived in the villageInstitute of Russian woman traditional healer. However, traditional methods of healing and a woman-a Tatar, who lived a few kilometers to the South. When people came to him to be treated, said: "I will Go to mother Russian" or "Go to mom Tatar". And was fixed for these villages names — Russian Mother and a Tatar Mother.

No longer exists on any modern large-scale geographical map of Mother Tatar . There are only Russian Mom, only under a different name — the village Resort. (from 1948 to 1972 - mysovoye)



In the village we went. After such a hearty meal is wanted the next day. But in the healing mud to roll a Holy cause. For such dirt people pay in other places, big money - and here is full free.


About the unique properties of medicinal mud lake Chokrak known for a very long time.

Since those times, when Kerch was called Panticapaeum was the capital of the powerful Bosporan Kingdom, who fought even with the Roman Empire.

The story goes that the Bosporan king Mithridates VI Eupator from joint pain were treated chokrakskoe mud. But it was still in 66 BC. The lake was then called Mataka. (Chokrak it was already during the reign of Ottoman Turks.)

Here's what he wrote Greek merchant Menafn his clerk in the city of Piraeus (Greece) on Metaxas dirt 75--70 BC:

"This year the priests metascore of FIAS (religious Association) are particularly greed and the price of medical metaksi Il keep unseen, to the same in payment of silver money do not take, and only gold or ELEKTRA (an alloy of gold and silver). Therefore, I order to sell it (Il) is twice more expensive than the previous prices, but above a quarter of Medina (52 l) to include my name as a sacrifice to my temple of Hermes".

Tell you what here the wounded were treated by the soldiers of Alexander MakedonskogoOh, in the middle ages, the Crimean khans used chokrakskoe mud and water not only for treatment but also for the multiplication of male power before a visit to its famous harem. Since ancient times, chokrakskoe mud, as a remedy, was valued very highly and was one of the exports of the Bosporan Kingdom. And the lake was considered sacred, and on its shore stood the temple. Apparently, only the priests of this temple had the right to treat patients with curative mud lake and sell it.

Of course since then passed a lot of time and the temple was destroyed during one of the wars of the Peninsula

In tsarist Russia in 1895 on the banks of the lake was built by one of the first mud in the Crimea. Make it cost a lot of money that could afford only very rich patients. They lived in a 2-storey building, next to a small well-kept, cosy gardens. The resort had nine sulfur and one bitter-alkaline source, which was used for mud baths and inhalations. Until our time has come to mention the original, in modern language, marketing the course of the administration of the hospital. Near the gate was piled a large pile of crutches left by the healed by the visitors of the resort.



In 1917, the hospital ceased to exist. The revolution swept away everything in its path. Proletarians are probably not needed treatment.

However, in 1926, it tried to revive, but it worked for only ten years. The management of the hospital tried to enlist the support of Stalin, but in vain. In 1939, it was again closed because the area Chokrakskoe lake appeared on the territory of military range bagerovo.(But more on that a bit later)

During the great Patriotic war there was dominated by Germans and taken to Germany not one truck curative mud.

By the way, Chokrakskoe lake retains also traces the history of our once common country. During the great Patriotic war in the lake Chokrak the plane fell, shot down in the air filter.Mr. battle.

Now no trace remained of her buildings, and especially the Park. The perimeter of the lake in complete desolation - no medical facilities there. Now this dirt is used for the production of soap and used in the hospital, which is located in Feodosiya.

So ignominiously ended the story Carrascoso sanatorium, in due time relieved from serious illnesses, many thousands of people.


We Kuzmin threw our bikes nearby, we undressed and went to rejuvenate. To go into a sticky oily goo is not very nice. It is the molasses coats the parts of the body. Because of the high degree of saltiness you feel yourself float - the body does not sink and you can hang like weightless in any position.

What is this truly unique silt-sulfide mineralized healing mud of the salt lake Chokrak?

Usually deposits of this mud are one or two natural factors that are the root cause of their formation. This -- the sea, marine lagoons or salt lakes; springs of highly mineralized water. There is a third -- mud volcanoes.The uniqueness of the Chokrak deposits is that in education its healing mud was attended by all three factors: the sea, springs and mud volcanoes. Even the name of Chokrak, in translation from Turkic means "spring".

This is a unique mineral complex, trace elements, salt solution, organic and biologically active substances which have anti-inflammatory, resolving effect, improves metabolic processes in the body, strengthen the immune system. According to the experts, chokrakskoe mud cures rheumatism, arthritis, osteochondrosis, neuritis, sciatica, dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, pharyngitis, tonsillitis, chronic rhinitis, infertility and other diseases.

In 1973 a well-known health resort, Professor S. Elbow wrote: "Chokrak -- it's more than Saki and Matsesta, together".

Besides lake silt contains silvero - this is the only such lake in the Crimea

Here in this unique location, we with Andrey were. Maybe it's better that while there is nothing built. And that will enclose all will pass for money, and then you look souse will not be, and say through a narrow window will give only a small bowl of mud to cover himself.



Here, as in the Sivash before the war, salt was mined. Salt bridges vaporizers were only pegs like rotten teeth sticking out all over the lake. On the old map of the General staff of the USSR marked the location of these vaporizers and also mud baths. After the war, they did not.



Because the salt was mined , the natural state of the lake was its almost complete from the small saucer of brine in the middle of a dry summer. They write that the brine was such that the stick of the stick, and she immediately covered with salt. Now because of the floods that occur several years in a row, and also due to the flow of water from the Azov through spit that separates the lake from the sea, the water depth does not drop below 130 inches, while before it was dry up to 30 centimeters.

Today in lake water even live algae. Now the salinity of the brine is only 75-100 grams of salt per liter of volume, while earlier it reached 250-300 grams per liter. Because of the high-water of the lake is idle, the brine loses its quality, and the mud in such conditions it grows, the more it loses its healing properties.

In the Crimea inept actions for several curative lakes lost. For example, Tobechiksky lake "ditched due to the fact that his water into clams, in the other lakes began gypsuming mud that deprives their therapeutic properties".

Although medical science has not yet learned the full set of treatment itsIstv waters of the lake, but it is known that local residents, consuming salt lake, I never get sick with thyroid disease, to old age keep your teeth.

Studies have established that the lake and its mud are completely absent of polluting factors in the form of any pesticides, heavy metals, chemical compounds, non-natural origin. Background radiation chokrakskoe mud in 140 times below the maximum permissible level, it does not contain pathogenic microorganisms.


To sit with the mud on the body of the Dogo is not very nice - she starts pinching. And probably there is what that standards for such an application.
Twenty minutes was enough and we cries, and ran to bathe in the freezing waters of the stormy sea of Azov.



Further along the shore is a spectacular place - a series of pocket beaches in small coves surrounded by low hills and hills. Until 90-ies of these unique places were totally inaccessible, because the nearby village of bagerovo was closed flight school and Karalarskaya steppe, adjacent hills and beaches to the West of the Resort was used for bombing training, and firing. And between the shooting, in this unique place of vacationing military authorities, which were built cozy pansionaty hidden in deep coves. So people got these places the name "Generals".

Avid hiker Kuzmina difficult it was than surprise - he had seen so many beautiful places in the Urals, but even he at the sight of the beauty that opens our eyes were stunned. I was wondering why, after so many times of visits to the Crimea I did not stopped even once.

But it is the lack of good roads in the direction of the General's beaches and rescues these amazing places from the invasion of the Spa people.

We were in the days when the North windand turned warm Azov in some semblance of a real sea. And the people in the bays were not at all. In the summer here of course accessible by four wheel drive vehicles, and probably make the usual fraction of anthropogenic further contamination..

But luckily the waves washed away all the traces of human presence.


This is akin to space on Earth. Just you, the sky and the sea. We would have to hang around for a few days. But with a little food and even less water. We continued walking, occasionally going down in any Bay to take pictures or swim.


According to the testimony of vacationing people here is a little fact a few spoil the rest in these blessed places. There are so many of all living creatures - insects, mice and snakes. Mostly water snakes, which bite is not poisonous, but there are steppe Viper. Therefore, we must be careful not to stick your hands in crevices and under stones.

In principle, it was familiar to me - four years ago, we spent the night on Cape Kazantip and faced with such diversity of Azov fauna. Can't say I liked it) usually they all come out at night and can completely transform your sleep in restless porocanje from side to side, if you are in the tent. And if not then to chew a little because of instinct)



Almost all of the bays have names. And actually the General's beach is a couple of bays located near the confluence of the sea of some little river or rather Creek. There is a rock resembling a woman's head or even the Sphinx.

General the beach is associated with the name of General Camporese commander of the ground in baherove.

In 1952 Colonel Chernarus was appointed head of the 71-th polygon. Terrorisom led by a team of engineers and test pilots have made a significant contribution to the development and introduction into the Armed Vultures new models of aircraft nuclear missile weapons, and adequately fulfilled the tasks of air support nuclear testing. From 1949 to 1962 71st landfill, the air force participated in the 178 nuclear tests on Semipalatinsk, Novaya Zemlya testing grounds and near Orenburg. The commander of the landfill many times he participated in conducting these tests.

Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR of April 10, 1962 for his leadership work on the development of military equipment, the Lieutenant-General Cernomazu Viktor Andreyevich was awarded the title of Hero of Socialist Labor with order of Lenin and Gold medal "hammer and Sickle".

In 1970, Lieutenant General Chernarus dismissed.

Vedinimo on this beach they loved to spend their free time. In those days these places were almost their sole use. No mouse in human form would not have slipped) Privacy neverojatnaja. At the airport - bombers Tu-16



Not to say that the bays do not have any buildings. Here's an example in the Bay of Joyful was a boarding house

I think he also belonged to the military. Then came the desolation. Currently there are neither good-nor bad is new construction.

Some businessmen have ordered the project of a coastal hotel at the world renowned Swiss architect Peter Vetch.(

Peter Vetsch, Swiss architect who is implementing the projects of the so-called "earth houses", which is often compared to hobbycity mink. The technique of spraying concrete – "the rotor" which is used in tunnelling and handy in the implementation of the current object. The completion of the center, designed for one-time stay of 200-300 people was planned for 2012.

I think will work very nicely and most importantly in the spirit of the coast. Not a faceless box, and maxbut close to the nature of the structure. It reminded me of the architecture of Spaniard Antoni Gaudi in Barcelona - he also designed the buildings so that they fit into nature.


As I mentioned, these places were closed before the beginning of the nineties. In the village of bagerovo air base was unique for Crimea runway.



The runway (the thickness of the concrete slab 80 cm length of about 4 kilometers) secret Bagerovsky airfield, able to make strategic bombers "Betfair", prepared for the landing of space Shuttle "Buran".

Strip, with complete infrastructure space base, combined with the unique Crimean radars strategic tracking and management.

In 50-60s out flying strategic bombers to test atomic bombs on the ranges of Novaya Zemlya and Semipalatinsk.

They write that magerovskii bombers who participated in nuclear weapons tests, after returning to earth were buried on the site, covering it with a layer of soil. Winged cars, caught in a radioactive cloud, were written off immediately after returning to their base and covered with soil, to not too were radioactive.

In the garrison simulated "non-nuclear" testing "products" (such a neutral word scientists, technicians and experts are traditionally called nukes). The first product was our atomic device, RDS-1 detonated at the Semipalatinsk test site.

History first adopted by the domestic cruise missile COP-1 "Comet", is also closely linked with 71 range. Flight tests of the KS-1 lasted a year and a half and ended the State tests (held from July 1952 to January 1953) with the decision about mass production and adoptionm on Board. The result is a real combat use for the target, was sunk by the cruiser "Red Caucasus".

In 1953, tests were conducted radiological weapons. As military equipment has been used, fluid combat radioactive substances, which is a radioactive waste of the nuclear industry, are dissolved in chemically active acids. Tested the head of the rocket and liquid bombs. The main objective of the tests: safety check preflight preparation, transportation on Board aircraft in flight and bombing run; determining operating characteristics of the road tanker; the definition of zones of destruction by the explosion of liquid bombs. In 1958, all work within the project on creation of radiological weapons was discontinued.

After the Soviet collapse, radioactive burial were transferred to the Ministry of defense of Ukraine. Almost unguarded and unfenced burial ground has attracted the attention of hunters behind metal, burial stolen, and its territory is contaminated with strontium-90.

Crimean authorities of course deny this fact.

After the collapse of Soviet airfield in bagerovo became the property of Ukraine. And "eliminated unnecessary". Now in its place of complete collapse, and in the house of officers weigh only posters with /images of the famous "defender" of Hetman Mazepa.

Announcement on 29 may auction Bagerovsky airfield posted on the website of Fund of property of Crimea. The starting price of the non-residential buildings and the complex of runways specified in 12,114 million UAH. The building of the airport is almost completely destroyed and is not suitable for further use.

The whole remained as the main and auxiliary runways, according PIARC consisting of slabs of airfield brand PAG-18 area 27,23 hectares of reinforced reinforced concrete high marks. More of 6.64 ha is a monolithic coating. Under the terms of the sale continued use of the airfield opwill redlit the buyer.

And here's a video of how it all ended. But in 2006 the airfield was included in the program of small aircraft of the Crimea.



In the evening we reached the village of gold - it is on the very edge of the Kazantipsky Gulf. On the beach and pitched a tent. Kazantip Bay is large and protected on both sides from the North wind. Excitement there almost was not.

By the way is also a great place to stay. And unlike the General's beaches is much easier to drive on any machine.

It is interesting that in the times of the Crimean khanate village was called Alatau and was naturally inhabited the Crimean Tatras.

After the Russo-Crimean war of the mid-19th century village in full force emigrated to Turkey and was empty. Vposledstvii was populated by migrants from Alexandreia - Germans. From Prishibskaya parish - was a German national Okrug in the Ukraine.

Soon after the beginning of the great Patriotic war, August 18, 1941 the Crimean Germans were deported, first in the Stavropol Krai, and then in Siberia and Northern Kazakhstan. By the decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR of 18 may 1948, renamed Alatau gold

Don't know whether back the Germans back over here - but the village looks very neat and well maintained. And the beaches are gorgeous.