The threshold Nedoma

Heavy sand

Distance: 49 MILES | Weather: Sunny


Departure from Vityazevo took place around 5 PM. We decided to force the plot to the Taman Peninsula on the shore . Here were two estuary separated from the Black sea by narrow sand spits. They then wanted to see up close.

Immediately after Vityazevo was Vityazevsky Liman.

Vityazevsky Liman is completely separated from the sea and is a closed zero-discharge pond. The estuary has the shape of a flattened triangle with an area of 64 km2 with a maximum depth of 1.5 - 2 m Under the biofilm is overlain by dark gray, sometimes bright black silt with the smell of hydrogen sulfide. This is the mud - it's Packed with a lot of active microorganisms. It is soft, plastic to the touch, easily smeared and washed off with it.

This was once a Bay of the Black sea. And now the great salt lake, which is fed by a little river Gusterica. In the dry year, the estuary dries up and rotting microorganisms exude a pleasant smell of hydrogen sulfide. There are projects or complete draining of the estuary and building houses in its place, or Vice versa transforming it again into the Bay, dug through the spit and organization inside new resort area with beaches, yachts and expensive hotels.



But until that happens we could easily boost Vityazevo's sandy spit.

Immediately beyond the village begins the Kingdom of SAND.

Braid is usually divided into 3 parts — the beach (about 100-150 m) on both edges of the spit and dune, which occupies its Central part. 3 km to the North from Anapa, in the district of Beluka, due to wind surges appear first sand dunes important.

Cycling became almost immediately impossible, though closer to the estuary part of the spit there is an earth track. But the wind brought it with sand and only some of its parts are solid. We left the bikes and went to investigate, and immediately saw several BUCs mired in sand captivity machines. People are trying to pass here in their wagons in search of solitary places, of which there are almost 40 km) And happily get stuck at the bottom. Poke around amusing signs: "Tug" and "Find your keys" with phones

However if you are the owner of all-wheel-drive jeep a La Trophy RAID , you do it on a drum - the sand and tugs)

However, our bikes were not to go to them was impossible. Had to pull them dragging. And only occasionally drive under its own power in areas not peremennyh sand. Two hours of torment we have not really moved away from Vityazevo - it was getting dark and we decided to spend the night on the beach. Had to roll out of the track and drag Vela through the dunes to the black sea coast. There Andrew had chosen a good spot among some of the former temple of stones and the protruding poles. I offered shelter from the wind away from the water in the dunes , but Andrew insisted on the shore. And this time he was right) Despite the wind that verse however, at night the water was better. And dunes we used for another purpose. But probably not just us)

Great dinner with a view of the lights and Vityazevo Anapa (Bay doing a smooth curve and they were clearly visible) was a perfect complement after a busy day.






Sea near Anapa spit shallow and well warmed by the sun. Therefore, the water temperature here in the summer on average by 2-5 degrees higher than on the other, more deep-water black sea resorts to the South. However, the shallow water of the spit can be deceptive. Along the coast there are several rows of so-called malakow constantly Malaysia submarine sand spits, which at low tide forms a so-called "ascend" or baffle wave rapids that pose a risk to those unfamiliar with the sea of people.

The demolition wave is one of the species of marine and/or coastal oceanic currents, with the direction at a right angle from the shore. In this place formed the rapids, where the water rushes back to sea with great speed (up to 2.5-3.0 m/sec), as if forming a river in the middle of the sea and can pull a swimmer. I remember there was a case on the sea of Azov in the area of Yeysk spit that killed the campers, the students just because of this phenomenon.

In the morning we had to be back on the road along the Firth part. At first, she was more or less (probably in the widest part of the spit the wind could cause a lot of sand on it), and then deteriorated. Sometimes we had to dismount.

Having spent a fair amount of effort to drive in such a disgusting coating (washboard mixed with sand) we Andryukha finally left to Blagoveshchensk. Where my partner tasted another local falshak from wooden barrels, and then we are stuck in a roadside cafe, where tightly dined very well.

Every time I see a kiosk with RAslivnik wine my imagination is a picture - like behind the walls of which are mounted in the barrels is a mustached hairy Abrek in a large pan pomeshivat his drink, occasionally adding something to what the powder out of the box, the liquid of the bubbles, and then using tapentadol dirty funnel pours the wine in all barrels.

Meanwhile, on the opposite side behind the counter Kuzmin and blissfully rolling his eyes smacking his lips thoughtfully says: Oh good chacha! And as if to echo around: a Phony-a Phony! A Kuzmin - Yes, all this garbage! what I present is no different!!!
Abrek door echoed thunderously : Present! Now! Wah! and again missing the funnel.



For the Annunciation is still larger estuary Kiziltash. Or rather there's a whole agglomeration of estuaries connected to each other. Kiziltash is the largest . To him in the South adjacent Bugaz estuary Kiziltash nominally separated from the oblique Naked. And in the North-West of Liman Tsokur. We had to overcome another sand spit separating the estuary from the Bugaz Black sea. Bugazskaya spit is quite narrow with a length of about 12 kilometers and a width of 250-300 meters. Completely deserted in the Central part - a heck of a place. The fine sand beach with a length of 12 kilometers. A lot of shellfish thrown ashore, I scored a bunch on padarki.

Everything is engaged in kiting - both ends of the spit, where a possible entrance for vehicles is located rental and training




In the center of the braids to stop problematic - only passable on jeep. The road that goes there along the low dunes with the Firth part is even worse than the previous spit. Because of the narrowness of this Polski sushi it's all peremitina sand. Five meters to go twenty go on foot. Plus some get flies and mosquitoes. Well, heat. In the end we broke down and decided to walk along the water's edge of the Black sea. Trouble was little excitement and the waves rolled against the shore. Andrew cheerfully went ahead and vigorously rolled the bike. I had a nightmare. The rear wheel under the weight of the backpack dug in the sand and had to lift the ass veloped to move. After a while I got the hang of it a bit. The fact that the sand was compacted at the time of the retracement wave. Sea waves have different heights. It argued that the ninth wave is the biggest. This occurs due to the interference (overlapping) of several waves do Not know how it is about the ninth but the fact was obvious. I waited a moment after you roll back the biggest wave (when the sand is compacted) . I had a few seconds before the next big wave and I was moving almost at a run along the shore. At this point the rear wheel is almost not failed. then stayed and waited for the next opportune moment.

However, all this capital was being robbed of power. Right hand to the end of the braid was hanging like a whip)

We periodically stopped to rest and swim.

Until 2008 there was a project to turn Bugazskaya spit in the economic recreation area. The project is estimated at 8-9 billion dollars, and planned to implement in 2009. But our happiness was disrupted by the crisis. And while there are savage outlaws, and not a barrier and the entrance fee.




In the center of the spit is Strait sedinami the estuary to the sea. This so-called Abyss or Fish feed.



The channel in the spring the fish comes to spawn in Kiziltashskiy estuary, where the water is heated much faster than in the Black sea, providing a rich food base. In autumn the young fish go to sea, which cools more slowly. The channel through Bugazskaya spit has been opening every year, now is a stationary structure with a road bridge. There where mullets farm is located.

But we decided to cross it by wading near the sea. Over there is quite strong, knocking down. And a bunch of fry in the clear water. However we managed , though my heavy led and a backpack I had to carry separately.

Generally of course the place is stunning) But the heat got to be difficult - no shelter, no water. On machines especially will not pass. As we walked there was not one. If it spit zavyaznesh - only tractor ATV save). Nevertheless, a dumpster some where there is - well, it's business as usual for Russia



Under the scorching rays of the September sun two emaciated by wind and sand traveler dangerously close to the edge of the Bugazskaya spit. Andrew gets far ahead and I grimly thought all the same age and strength are not the same as before. But almost at the finish Kuzmin suggested to try to swap tales ostensibly to assess the steepness of its Merida . Andrew promocio agreed.

When I pushed on the edge of the shore, his bike was absolutely stunned - he just flew himself forward without the slightest effort and the wheels are not buried as I have. After 5 minutes, Kuzmin, first zealously took up my Schwinn cried , so I took it back.

The difference was really huge), Coupled with a lot more weight and the thin tires my bike was totally unsuitable for pulling it on the sand) from now it's worth considering. As a result, I didn't get the pleasure from this phase of our campaign which could get - for to go on the edge of the sea, devoid of people the countryside is just a dream idiot)



Finally we made to the beach of the village Veselovka. Interesting transformation of its name. Before the revolution it was called Holopatiuk, because here lived the poor, Yes poor. After rouletii became Krasnoselivka (the poor will not go away - only the color changed). then it was renamed into amber (but not because there are deposits, but just a local farm, so called) and finally now it is Veselovka - razzudis shoulder!!!! Poor and walking - lots of jeeps in the sky soar kites sails of a hundred and more hundred thousand roubles. Modern the poor got the money) But for a garbage dump and the toilet to walk normally, have not yet learned.

Generally Veselovka unofficial center of kitesurfers Kuban, as well as various festivals. In particular music festival. This year it was held from 1 to 5 August and gathered 150,000 people for 5 days. It would be interesting to see of course, but was in that place a month later. The participants of the festival in different years, you can look here - 90% of them unknown to me)

The hill before the village (there is a monument to the soldiers of the Soviet Army) offers good views of the Bugazskaya spit. And you can look take the long path which we walked in less than a day.



In veselivka a halt and RAID on the store - is sacred)

At first we wanted to go further along the coast towards Cape Iron horn. There probably is also beautiful and interesting, but that the Sands have so bled that without saying a word decided to go ondirect to Taman. And the places to leave it for some other time.

By the way, a little further on Cape Iron horn was recently built oil and gas terminal. It has caused rough protests of ecologists, because in the event of an accident will be filthy all the unique waters of this part of the Peninsula. But when we are talking about big money is listening to the voice of reason? The terminal was built and someone rowing now millionchik. And the modern proletarians having fun nearby - they don't care about nature and its problems.

Here's how it looks from space this terminal



A few hours later we rode into the Taman. It was getting dark and should look for a place to sleep, but where to do it without leaving the city too far?

"Taman is the nastiest little hole of all the seaports of Russia... I came to flipping the truck late at night. The driver stopped at the gate of the only stone houses that at the the Sergeant and the foreman. I explained to them that I was an officer bound for the active-service detachment on government business, and began to demand official quarters. The foreman took us through the city. To which the house may get there — busy... "Lead me to somewhere, a robber! Even to hell, only to spot!“ — I shouted. "There is still one Vater... ... but your honour will not like; it is unclean!"...after a long journey through dirty alleys, where the parties I saw only the old fences, we drove up to a small hut on the beach. The shore descended precipitously to the sea, almost from its very walls, and down below, with incessant murmur, plashed the dark-blue waves... "

Surprisingly, almost Lermontov, and not straying, fate brought us to the sea. Had to literally squeeze our loaded bikes through the narrow flattened on the sides of the clay slopes path. Our eyes opened Taman typical coastal landscape. The shore of the Taman Gulf from Cape Tuzla until the village Therean elevated and steep. The average height ranges from 15 to 30 m and consists of sandy loam sediments, in some places mixed with shells, pebbles, gravel. Apparently the sea constantly washes away this steep Bank and he gradually falls. To strengthen it began to pour promenade. In the photo you can see her. Andrey and without further ADO proposed to put up a tent there - smooth surface, though hard, but the trails and people away. I normally do not argue with the voice of reason and the tent was broken. Little did we know what would happen the next morning and the choice of the Parking lot seemed far not the worst option in the situation.




And dusk, and the light of the Russian secret
Shrouded in the evening the Taman.
Fisherman's shack, poplar old
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Star cloud looks at the sea
There in this hour do not see anyone
But fancies, as if in the open
A white sail. As here without him?

erif;">And fancied that it was already
In some former life I have
Soul in the fragrant twilight stayed
And warming themselves at high fire.

High coast the sea will soon become
The earth bit by bit pours into the fog...
">Holy charm and mystery
Shrouded farewell Taman!..