The threshold Nedoma

If you were in Kerch? Was not - so silent

Distance: 45 MILES | Weather: Sunny (soundtrack)


Grandfather Valera in the morning said goodbye to us and drove all sail to Yalta. Well, Andrei and slowly drove along the shore in the city of Kerch.

Near the port of Crimea are of razvalina fortress of Eni-Kale, the remainder of the rule on the Peninsula of the Ottoman Empire.

The fortress was built in the period from 1699 to 1706 year. Supervised the construction of converts to Islam Italian by the name of Golopo. Also was attended by French engineers. Yenikale had for the Ottoman Empire's strategic importance — the fortress situated at the narrowest part of the Kerch Strait and armed with powerful guns, prevented the passage of Russian ships between the Azov and Black seas.

A major problem was the lack of fresh water — the only well in the fortress could not provide water to all its population. Therefore, for water supply, the builders paved ceramic underground water pipe connecting with a source of Yenikale, located a few kilometers from the fortress



For a more complete inspection of the city, it was decided to rent a house for a day. But on the way to town did not find anything suitable. All what Villa expensive. But as it turned out, thank God.

The city went first to the station - there is usually trash those who rents a house. But here's the problem - Kerch is not a resort town and suggestions were very few and also not cheap. Andreja snorting with taxi drivers scored what phone numbers called periodically. But the two sweaty cyclist who needed a room for the day anyone not involved. I suggested not to waste time and go explore Kerch, and housing will either draw itself or go further out of the city and set up a tent in the evening.

And so they did. By and large to watch in Kerch nothing. There is a promenade. Comfortable, but completely naked (a couple of the cafe is not in Schem) Then basically the whole view of the port cranes.

There is a mountain of Mitridat with the famous staircase. Is the Central part of the pedestrian streets.

Surprisingly Kerch was very comfortable and pleasant city - I would even say the best in the Crimea.


To the Crimea to visit because of the Ukrainian food. When you eat local products clearly realize what kind of shit are treated the Russians. And then some product does not take - all natural and high quality. Perhaps the Ukrainians are accustomed to this and not really aware of his own happiness. Love to visit the Crimean supermarkets. Eyes get)


This time we went to the start. Andrei trained eye shot is fantastic Kremenchug sausage. She had a thick washer and was dense as a piece of wood. But very delicious) We ate it almost to the end of the campaign. The sausage was worth 450 rubles per kilogram, but it was worth it. It was called "Nostalgia".

Warehouse: sailaway lean pork, yalovicina sailaway vidago class, bacon the pig, SIL kitchen, spicy-aromatic composition (spec (pereze Chorny, muscati walnut, perezi dahmani), dextrose, sucrose, amicici rum, brandy.

Very symbolic - that is the word you can call the Ufa longing for quality hohlyatskim harcum. How I miss sometimes without Roshena chocolates, soda Zippy, Massandra wines , grapes Chaush, etc. )



Mitridat mountain in Kerch, where was located the ancient city of Panticapaeum. Named after the Pontic king Mithridates VI Eupator, who died here as a result of political and military struggle with the Romans. Height over sea level of 91.4 meters.

At her we went up with Andrew after  first and last, not a quarrel, but the dispute), He didn't want to leave the bike velorjukzakov at the foot of the stairs. I offered to fasten their rope and forget about their existence. But Andrew always wanted to keep an eye on them. Then I realized - he was afraid for a bottle of cosasy bought in duty free on the ferry) Although it is also only an assumption.

As a result, the situation was resolved - bikes left about aunt who raised money for entrance to pay toilets.



The mountain is about on par with the Adzhimushkay quarries. To go to the mountain and see the memorial, you need to pass the 436 stairs (previously there were about 300; now they are elevated). The mountain offers a great view of the city and the Kerch Bay. The memorial cost 3 anti-aircraft guns.

In the depths of the Northern slopes of mount Mithridates directly under the residential development is huge underground necropolis — a complex system of late antique tombs of Panticapaeum, interconnected predatory eyes.

We spent an hour at the top, staying in the most blissful state of mind. This contributed to a bit of Massandra port wine sausage and cutting of the Handicap) In such moments simply melt into the world around you.

When the terms of sun, wind, sea, and trusted friend.



And as it is a second-stepped the problems with finding housing. It always usually comes in - when you work hard in finding solutions to some problems , it does not work, but should relax and let things slide as there is still obtained. The rule worked this time. After a leisurely trip through the streets of Kerch with gatherings in cafes curve of fate brought us right to the hotel "Sport".

Amazingly, the room rates were quite affordable (about 400 rubles per person) and we checked. And the bikes we were kindly allowed to throw on first floor and locked in some closet.

The hotel is absolutely Soviet-type with a minimum of repair. But quite decent. Cleaned up and rested a bit, went out on the evening of Kerch.



Once again Kerch to this day the most comfortable city of the Crimea. There are no lurid atmosphere of a typical resort, such proevropeyski rather quiet town with lots of cafes and very green.


Cafes for every taste and budget. We tried a couple. The second was a family restaurant, where we were surrounded by such attention and care that we have not been able to leave. It must be able to create the illusion of the visitor that he is a dear guest and almost the only. In this place I will gladly return again.


By the end of the day my friend caught a cold. I had to regale him with paracetamol)

By the next day pharmaceuticals, as well as akiban of the bottles on the TV had to provide their beneficial effects.

I say the same thoughts materialists. But also treated)

Cachaca is a strong alcoholic drink obtained by distillation of pure extract of sugar cane juice. Technology of production of cachaça is the same as in the production of rum. They can be considered the closest relatives, but still... the difference in the composition of the feedstock, because the rum is produced during the distillation of molasses black or white molasses, and that cachaça is made exclusively in Brazil.

Surprisingly, I often get sick in the Crimea - whether there is a virus circulating felts something like that) But the truth and recover instantly. Home week it would take - and then a day or two and you're fine.

We were in Kerch in September - and for the contrast as she looks for the New year.



The next day, Andrew spent almost to hours X - time check-out. But he said that I can go further. True confidence in his voice was a little) But the body seasoned travelers coped. And we went to see the adzhimushkay catacombs.

To soemu chagrin I forgot at the hotel to your chic pump served me faithfully for almost 10 years. Andrew reassured me that the pump will go to someone who deserves it and they say thank you for this unexpected gift. But what is the consciousness that I was not very heated.



In the area of the quarries there is another historical-archaeological monument, where we went for early tours of the quarries was more than an hour.

The Tsar burial mound — a monument of funerary architecture of the IV century BC – a masterpiece of ancient architecture

The architecture of the Imperial barrow has an interesting design solutions, ahead of his time. Indoor corridor — dromos, a length of 37 m leading to a square funerary chamber, arranged in such a way that has some meaning, fulfilling the purpose of its erection.
At the entrance to the chamber for easy extension of the dromos creates the illusion of a shortened future, so the path to the vault seems shorter. And when you look from the camera perspective effect "works" on the contrary, lengthening and narrowing the exit from the tomb.



Adzhimushkay catacombs (a bit about the heroism of Soviet soldiers in a separate Chapter)
strongly recommend to listen the original audio tour of this the link

From cameramen to Azov hand. Andrew almost recovered, although the disease has made itself felt and we were traveling slowly.

The terrain for Cycling is the most suitable - hilly plain. Something like the area of the lake Talkas we in Bashkiria. Space and air! The Peninsula is blown both sides - from both seas. Nowhere else in the Crimea will not find such spiritually uplifting places.

With each new view love in all the Peninsula more. Wonder why we had avoided it.

The Kerch Peninsula is the Eastern part of the Crimean Peninsula. The length from East to West about 90 km, from North to South from 17 to 50 km, an Area of about 2700 — 3000 km?. The highest point is mount Chroni (175 m). The Peninsula is bordered on the North of the sea of Azov and in the Western part of the Gulf of Sivash in the East — the Kerch Strait, in the South — the Black sea. In the West, the Peninsula is connected with the rest of the Crimea Akmonajsky peresadovka 17 km in width. In some high places of the isthmus visible at the same time both sea and sea of Azov, and Black.
The North-Eastern part of the Peninsula is hilly, composed mainly by limestones, clays and sandstones. A lot of mud volcanoes.



Trees are almost there. Stopped only once under the canopy of acacia trees. The fruit - pods with seeds, which ripened in September, but has not yet revealed and rattled in the wind like a maracas. I even joke ripped off a few pieces and tried to blow the whistle tune) Quite a useful tool. And even a bear that went through my ears as a child would deny such an obvious fact)

The sea popped up after another hills as features of the woodwork and our eyes were opened to the basics. So I haven't seen. The Azov sea seemed always warm, soothing puddle with small flat bottom. Freedom for kids.

>Now, however, its vast expanse of water travel through the crests of two waves trembling. Beach was completely white from the foaming surf.

And in the distance could be seen the cubic roof of some futuristic like village built by Luc Besson science fiction film. We drove closer. Absolute solitude and a squally sea winds gave the place some mystical feeling. A fantasy played out. Like Zurbagan Alexander grin materialized on the deserted shore. Seemed a little bit more and the Mirage will disappear.

The reality was more prosaic), It was only a garage with the boat village. And protect it just one stranici the guard with a wife and a brood of dogs.

Andrew, as it turned out did not like dogs why the dog felt it)



We met with good-natured uncle Vanya. Andrew has always been able to find approach to any man, what I ought to learn. Uncle Vanya drank a glass of wine while we lay on the beach and watched the sunset.

We asked him for permission to put up a tent somewhere in the yard where the garages would cover us from the cold strong wind from the sea. But uncle Vanya has gone even further in his hospitality and allowed us raspolagetsya inside a small room of the garage, and it is absolutely free!

It turned out that he was a Chernobyl - well, that is not the liquidator and itell of Pripyat. Him and his family evacuated in 1986 from the zone of radiation injury and suggested that the choice of apartments in different parts of the Crimea. He chose Kerch. And now retired working as a watchman in these garages ohrannaya boats.

In this nelega he helped the dog and its close rodsvennikov - puppy named Mukhtar. Toady even that turned out)

But the fears of Andrew about bitches justified. I understand animals and feel the emanations coming from a man. They feel strAh , hatred and kindness and affection.

In General, when we passed by their hut this bitch suddenly rushed to Andryukha and his teeth in his foot.!!

Right what a joke) no Wonder they say that something are more afraid of - that with you happens. Well, of course Kuzmin not been a laughing matter - it chewed up the blood. Father Ivan dragged zobaczenia and were surprised by her behavior. Type she's never done before.

The evening was held in our garage in a warm and friendly atmosphere. And the night in the pitch dark in the garage had no Windows. As if he found himself in the catacombs.