The threshold Nedoma

You sho - debil?


As usual, that morning I was up again first. That's interesting - who would not go camping, all kapets sasoni. Gun will not raise.

Although in fairness, Kuzmin was not the worst in this regard.

In the evening accumulated a little dirty posudki and I scratched all that is necessary peasants scratching in the morning, went to the sea to rinse. Is simple enough and left him no more than five minutes. When I moved away from the water he saw approaching the edge of the shore, a peasant with a dog. Well here the beach is long and the town next to in the morning run, just walk. Not the best course Parking lot, and trail a few dozen meters.

Well, this time I look the man straight to me. I thought, as usual - who, where, Yes where, and how much bikes. The set of interests of the Crimean people is limited to these voprosami.

But this time, this citizen decided to diversify the usual dialogues) to Reproduce all that was said is not possible, and children read my scribble I guess. In a nutshell this local aborigine named Yuri did not like the fact that I washed the dishes in the sea and thereby caused the damage to the local ecosystem and at the same time and his vanity. And he raised voices expressed their doubts about my sexual orientation, adding to this the promise to bring his friends to commit their criminal acts of a certain character. I had tried peaceful to fend off his arguments, but it is in my case used absolutely killer phrase taken from the end of our hike cruise (Andrew liked it very much and he used to place and out of place) - "You sho debil?"

To be honest I'm not used to this level of debate and also started to get angry that to me is very rare. With a sleepy disheveled head out of the tent my friend tried to arbitrate, but onlyto Podil fuel to the fire. Yura apparently finally found an appreciative audience and hotter, more and more, he blushed, sputtered (even had to back my seat up didn't get on my pure long unwashed velonica).

As said Kuzmin , waking up from our argument, if it is to record on tape - you would come out ready to Reprise Komediklab (they love these productions with all sorts of obscene words)

At some point I realized the whole absurdity of the continuation of this farce) And I abruptly extinguished the fire of passion in the simplest but surest way.

- Yura! I said - you are so right! And here we are with a friend not at all! We realize the tragic magnitude of our sinful behavior , sincerely regret their actions and try to continue to lick clean all the dishes in the language, to not have to use a for its wash antigololednye ways.

Jura utuh quickly and with a sense of accomplishment pochapali your dog further.

In General spoiled it for us the morning a little) and eating Hastily collected herself and moved to Feodosia.

I do not like Feodisia. Why I can not understand. For the fifth time come here again and do not like.

We needed a bike shop to fill the gaps of impoverished velociprey (pierced camera, broken and lost brake pump)

In Feodosia from only two and only one is a real bike shop. I liked it very much - the case and nothing more. And the choice completely different than we do.

Bought a new great velonas much better. Wanted veltrusy cheap - but didn't fit my beefy Kuzmin ass.

Probably need some explanation. I used to get it in Cycling a lot of cereal, for savings. To boil it every day for Breakfast and dinner. But the principles of hedonism forbade my friend to constantly poison your body with simple satrapskaya food. And therefore we are constantly skimped on our oats, rice stocks and catered to in all kinds of ppridorozhnyj institutions. When my perfect non-resistance. The food in the Crimea is quite tolerable and most importantly inexpensive. It is possible to the navel Narekatsi all sorts of Goodies, like dolma, pilaf or soup.



In General we did not stay in Feodosiya and I once insisted to pretend to be fools and go over the mountain Tepe-Both straight and not go around it on the highway. I went through these 4 years ago and I wanted to show Andrew VIDOS view from the top .



Here we both pochuvstvovali that the plane ran out and segued into the terrain rugged. Well at least not very hot it was - but still sweated.


Well upstairs as usual - a standard set of attractions ranges: condenser Siebold (read more here)

Locators (one of which by the way worked - PRV tumbler actively the soldier up and down the plane's radar) and a great view



Four white dome on the Tepe-Oba hide radar — radar. It — electronic reconnaissance and long-range detection. The territory of the guarded stations.

The pine on the Tepe-Oba locals in the abundance of harvested mushrooms and other fungi, including for the New year. Pine planting — artificial. Pine trees were planted here in 1971.

At the top, I finally changed the rear brake, because without it the ride on these treeless mountains was not very handy.


Tepe-Oba, the literal translation from the Crimean Tatar- "the mountain", and the meaning – "the end of the mountains", the name of the ridge, with a height of 302 m above sea level, towering over the city of Feodosiya.
With the 2011 mountain range of Tepe-Oba became a reserve, declared a Botanical reserve. The massif is home to rare community growvalues, nesting sea birds and birds living in the coastal cliffs.


The second ridge we had to cross was Biyuk-Yanyshar.

Biyuk-Yanyshar — a mountain range South-East of the Crimea, stretching from the village of Ordzhonikidze in the direction of Koktebel, the main peak of Dzhan-Matoran, height 238,2 m.

From the Turkic "great Janissaries". Large compared to the neighbouring ridge of Kuchuk-Yanyshar ("small of the Janissaries"). There is a grave of Maximilian Voloshin. The famous poet, painter, literary critic. From the summit opens a spectacular panorama of the Ancient volcano Karadag, Koktebel Bay, a Quiet Bay, Ordzhonikidze and the surrounding hills of Koktebel. Voloshin bequeathed to visit him at sunset.


On this ridge in the 70s no one planted trees and the hills were bald showing a beautiful Martian landscape.


"Big Janissaries", a mountain range South-East of the Crimea, stretching from the village of Ordzhonikidze in the direction of the village of Koktebel.

Janissaries were soldiers of the Sultan's guard in medieval Turkey. History the origin of the name is. In the middle ages Feodosiya belonged to the Genoese (the citizens of the city-state of Genoa, in present Italy) and was called Kafa.

In those days, the Cafe is fabulously rich. Her markets were to be found goods from Ukraine, Russia, Poland, India, China, Ceylon, Ethiopia, Tibet, Arabia. Of the Nordic countries merchants brought wheat and wool, furs, and wine, honey and wax. In India, roots, precious stones, exotic fabrics and opium, saffron and sandalwood. From China – porcelain from Ceylon – cinnamon and pearls. Musk was brought from Tibet, and ivory from Ethiopia. Myrrh and frankincense were put Arabia.

But a "product" brought the greatest benefit is slaves. Trade in human beings adopted in a Cafe a fantastic size and brought her sinister glory. Thousands of men, WEnsen and children taken in Ukraine, Russia, Poland and the Caucasus, was diagonalis Cafu.



Here's how to write about it in one of the old books: "...Torg slaves are available in all cities of the Peninsula, mostly in Cafes. Sometimes, crowds of miserable slaves, driven from the market directly into the ships, because the city lies in a highly convenient coastal Harbor and, because of their situation, may be called not a city, but rather a voracious and vile abyss, absorbing our blood".

This tidbit could not escape the attention of the Turkish Sultan and he was sent to take the city its fleet with the troops. The landing of the Turkish troops landed in a Quiet Bay, located at the foot of the ridge, as the most convenient and secure. Part of the army, as usual, were the Janissaries, but they were the most brutal part. Hence the name of the mountain range, leaving in people's memory the brutality of the Turkish troops. These incidents took place in 1475.

Andrew with his lung has gone ahead and I stayed and turned on the wrong path and fell into a narrow rocky cleft. The trail was so narrow that to turn back was not possible. I got off the bike and slowly began to pull it with another large stone, but couldn't hold balance and fell into the ditch with a depth meter. The bike fell on top, crushing the 20-pound backpack. I lie in this hole and I laugh parses. Calling for help is pointless. There is no one around. Kuzmin's probably ahead of where we admired views of Koktebel. Cleft so narrow , that move is hardly possible.

Where the strength came from) with Some incredible force pressed myself more than thirty kilogrammes weight and put the bike on the trail. Then got out himself. Okay, even snakes there wasn't any.

The slope is perfect for flying paragliders and especially speedgliders in North wind (inZmeiny small East and West laterals) . But even more, gliding a little further, where raspolozhenie Uzun-Syrt, or the Klementiev mount.

Barakauskas deepening of the basin at its foot, in combination with the arcuate shape of the ridge (together they form a kind of bowl) cause a unique air flow, which is famous Uzun-Syrt. The walls of this gigantic bowl, preventing the passage of winds, and low labor. Smoothly flowing around the mountain, the air waves would roll through it and enter another, North of the valley, and on these elastic jets can soar glider. As once said by Leonardo da Vinci: "the Wings are the elbows, which rest on air". From this point of view on the air of Uzun-Syrt to rely on, he keeps, as they say gliders.

The good location of Uzun-Syrt allows pritelem find and use the flow flow almost any wind. But especially favorable for flying North and more South wind. Good "Uzak" - the subject of dreams all the flying here. When the wind is southerly here you can float in the streams of flow and in "thermals", with the clouds and "wave". It is possible for one flight to make multiple transitions from the same conditions of evaporation and, as if on a huge swing, lifting of the streams flow in thermals, to the clouds and back.

Constantly blowing winds form over the slopes of the ridge updrafts of flow that allow you to make a soaring flight. It is for this reason mountain Uzun-Syrt became the cradle of gliding, hang-gliding and paragliding.

There are only two mountains with such strong updrafts is Uzun-Syrt in the Crimea and Harris hill in America, near the eponymous town in the United States, the state of new York.



Specifically feeling tired after laboring to overcome two mountains with our heavy velorjukzakov, Andreth offered to hang in a mountain pub, which we did, drinking a mug of beer Simferopol "Crimea" for 9 hryvnia (32 rubles), with sardines bought the day before.

While we enjoyed once again pulled the back wheel of my bike. Had to be repaired. When we finally reached Koktebele, wheel stabbed Andrew. A veritable epidemic. So many different failures, I have not been in any campaign.

While Kuzmin repairing a Bicycle, he is accused of organizing the theft of grapes from the nearby vineyard. Approached the guard and asked to remotivate at a respectful distance protected them from the vine. He thought it strange that Andrew a pierced next.
Actually, I also found this strange)



At the entrance of the city everywhere offered shelter. And we decided to clean up and enjoy a night of Koktebel. Hut what we got was not very close to the sea, but with a charming hostess.


And soon the net , in civilian clothes, we went to consider a night promenade.

Koktebel also I never liked. Night life here is not what very. Lower class than in the pike perch, for example. Primitive places with bad food and service. The village in General. But there were pleasant moments, we wandered into some kind of decent cafe, and there are two long-haired guy on the guitar and sang his own hits. Yes, so we hung there for an hour. Painfully healthy the guys played.

Every time during a Cycling trip I dipped into this standard resort life fills me with a deep feeling that I'm in the way. If in a parallel world plunged. All alien. All disgusting.

And around a phony sell. Draught pseudovina in plastic bottles. Chacha. Andrew of course did not miss the chance to taste.

But of course there is in Koktebel and normal. In the center of the promenade is brand shop of the winery "KokteBel". Only there you can buy quality assured products. It is the oldest enterprise - two centuries ago, established with the kings.



In the years of the Patriotic war of the Otuz valley, as the whole country was laid waste and desolation. To restore the agriculture in the valley began immediately after its liberation in 1944. Decided not to recreate the former collective farms, and to organize a new unified big farm - farm "Koktebel" (until recently the state farm "Koktebel" was part of the Association "Massandra").

In 1959 began the construction of the Grand vinpodvaly and brewery (on the hillside, near the village of planerskoe - now Koktebel). The size and complexity of the complex, called the Second plant (the First route), was not equal in the Crimea.

Lower wine storage is eight crashing into a mountain tunnel, connected by 90-metre long gallery. Each tunnel has a length of 60 meters, width - 8.4 metres height - 7.6 meters. Top wine storage consists of five such tunnels, but their length - from 120 to 360 meters. The total length of tunnels-basements - 1440 meters. Unique work carried out by the Moscow metro builders.

Produce a great wine. But is famous primarily for its brandy.

Cognac brand "Koktebel" is produced on the Sunny coast of the Crimea in 1965. Here, near the foot of Kara-Dag, and is the country of cognac.

The uniqueness of this brand of cognac is due to the climate and the limestone soil where the vines of white European varieties, Crimean Sabbath and Georgian Rkatsiteli.

Cognac "Koktebel" is of three-, four-, five -, and besides these there are also fine: "Koktebel – rarity", "Krym", "Kutuzov". Produsvoditsya cognacs "Koktebel" from cognac, derived from grapes using a classical technology. A certain time at a certain temperature cognac is aged in oak barrels.

Before Koktebel brandy is justly famous for its high quality. But now, when according to rumors, the factory purchased by foreigners - brandy of steel are not the same and besides it is very expensive. As a result, the store appeared a large number of fakes.


From exclusives the plant produces cognac "Kutuzov" 25 years of aging ($100 bottle). It was founded during the Soviet era, in the hope to defeat the French (hence the name), however, perestroika did not give the normal "promotion" and this cognac almost anywhere outside of Crimea is not known.

Incidentally, the famous Spanish singer Julio Iglesias confessed that before the performance he drank 50 grams of cognac, and this is "Kutuzov". It gives the singer the necessary energy for the concert.



Came home long after midnight. Rollicking tavern the fun is left behind. After rushed favorite song of the coast PR Valera. And I dreamed of the 19th century when in Koktebel rested creative Russian literati , not the plebeians from all post-Soviet space as it is now.

Maximilian Voloshin and Cherubina de Gabriak. Antokolsky and Alexei Tolstoy....

They are gone, but the spirit hovers invisibly over the Otuz valley